Santiago de Cuba

Santiago de Cuba (510,000 inhabitants) is Cuba's "second capital" and the exact opposite of Havana: hotter, louder, Afro-Caribbean, musical, and less touristy. Founded in 1515, Santiago was Cuba's capital until 1556 and remains the island's cultural and musical heart to this day.

The city is amphitheatrically situated on a deep bay, surrounded by the Sierra Maestra — the streets are steep, the climate tropical-humid (3–5°C warmer than Havana). Here, you feel the African influence more strongly than anywhere else in Cuba: In the music (Son, Trova, Tumba francesa), in the religion (Santería is omnipresent), in the food, and in street life.

Sights

★★★ Parque Céspedes — Santiago's main square is Cuba's liveliest: the cathedral (1528), the Museo de Ambiente Histórico Cubano in Cuba's oldest house (Casa de Diego Velázquez, 1522, 2 €), the town hall, from whose balcony Fidel Castro proclaimed the victory of the revolution on January 1, 1959. Under the trees sit domino players, musicians, and schoolchildren.

★★★ Casa de la Trova — The mother house of Son Cubano. Since 1968, musicians have played here every day and night — some of the same ones for decades. In this small room with photos on the walls, you sit among 80-year-old maestros and young dancers. It is Cuba's most authentic music venue — not a tourist program, but a living tradition. Admission 1–3 €, quieter in the afternoon, lively in the evening.

★★ Castillo del Morro (San Pedro de la Roca) — The UNESCO World Heritage Fortress (1638) perches on a rocky outcrop at the entrance to the bay, 10 km southwest of the city. Three levels of fortifications with cannons, casemates, and a piracy museum. The view over the bay and the Sierra Maestra is breathtaking — especially at sunset. Admission 5 €. By taxi (8–10 €) or organized tour.

★★ Cementerio Santa Ifigenia — Cuba's most important cemetery. Here lies José Martí (national hero, in an imposing mausoleum) and Fidel Castro (since 2016, buried in a simple boulder — his wish). The daily changing of the guard at Martí's grave (every 30 minutes) is a solemn ceremony. Admission 3 €.

★★ Cuartel Moncada — On July 26, 1953, Fidel Castro attacked the Moncada barracks with 160 rebels — the starting shot of the revolution (although a military disaster). Today a school complex and museum with bullet holes in the facade. The exhibition documents the attack and the history of the revolution. Admission 2 €.