Funchal & Surroundings

Funchal (from "funcho," Portuguese for fennel — the first settlers found wild fennel plants here) is Madeira's capital and home to over 100,000 people. The city lies in a natural bay on the south coast, protected from the north winds, and stretches amphitheater-like up the steep slopes — a panorama that is breathtaking, especially at night when the city's lights climb over the hills.

The Zona Velha (Old Town) is the historic heart: narrow cobblestone streets, colorful doors (project "Arte Portas Abertas" — local artists painted over 200 doors), fish restaurants, Fado bars, and Funchal's oldest street, the Rua de Santa Maria (1430). In the evening, Zona Velha transforms into a lively district with live music, Poncha bars, and the island's best restaurant scene.

The harbor and the Avenida do Mar are Funchal's promenade: wide walkways, palm trees, views of the cruise ships, and — at the eastern end — the Fortaleza de São Tiago (1614), a yellow fortress that today houses a museum of contemporary art. At the western end lies the Marina de Funchal, the starting point for whale and dolphin watching tours.

Other highlights: The Cathedral Sé (1514, Mudéjar ceiling made of cedar wood), the Town Hall with its beautiful courtyard, the Praça do Município (black-and-white cobblestone mosaic), and the Jardim Municipal — a small tropical park in the middle of the city. At the harbor, you can book whale watching tours (from €35, 2–3 hours) — Madeira's waters are home to over 20 whale species, including sperm whales, Bryde's whales, and various dolphin species.

The Mercado dos Lavradores (Farmers' Market) is Madeira's most famous market and a feast for all the senses. In an Art Deco building from the 1940s — with azulejo-adorned walls and an open courtyard — vendors in traditional costumes offer the exotic abundance of Madeira.

What you find here

• Exotic fruits: Passion fruit, Anona (Cherimoya, "the fruit of the gods"), Pitanga (Surinam cherry), Tamarillo (tree tomato), papaya, mango, bananas (Madeira's small, sweet bananas are famous), and the bizarre Monstera deliciosa — a fruit that looks like a green corn cob and tastes like pineapple-banana.
• Flowers: Strelitzias (bird of paradise), proteas, orchids, anthuriums — the flower section is an explosion of color. The vendors pack strelitzias flight-ready (€5–10 per bunch).
• Fish: In the basement is the fish hall — here you see the Espada (black scabbardfish), Madeira's culinary emblem: a deep black, snake-like fish with huge eyes, caught from depths of 800–1,200 meters. Also, tuna, swordfish, lapas (limpets), and fresh shrimp.
• Spices & specialties: Honey cake (Bolo de Mel), garlic paste, dried herbs, Madeira wine, poncha mixes, passion fruit liqueur.

Practical: Open Mon–Fri 7:00–20:00, Sat 7:00–14:00, closed on Sunday. The best time is in the morning between 8 and 10 am — then the selection is greatest and the atmosphere most lively. Caution: Vendors like to offer samples, but ask for the price before buying — at some stalls, prices for tourists are significantly higher than for locals.

Monte is located 600 meters above Funchal on a wooded hill and is accessible by Teleférico (cable car, €12.50 one way, €18 round trip, 15 minutes) — the ride over the city with its terraced gardens and red roofs is already a highlight. Once at the top, two attractions await you that are inseparably linked with Madeira.

Wicker Toboggan Ride (Carreiros do Monte)

Madeira's craziest tradition since 1850: Two Carreiros (toboggan drivers) in traditional white attire and straw hats steer a wicker toboggan (Carro de Cesto) down the steep, 2 km long road from Monte to Livramento — at speeds of up to 48 km/h, guided only by their rubber soles and ropes. The ride lasts 10 minutes and costs €30 for 2 people (€25 for 1 person). Once a means of transport, today a tourist attraction — but one that is genuinely fun and adrenaline-pumping.

Jardim Tropical Monte Palace

One of the most beautiful gardens in the world: 70,000 m² of tropical splendor on the former hotel grounds of the Monte Palace. Exotic plants from all continents, Japanese gardens with koi ponds, African sculptures, Portuguese azulejo tiles from the 15th to 20th centuries, a mineral museum, and a panoramic view over all of Funchal. Admission: €15, and it is worth every cent. Plan at least 1.5 hours.

The Church of Nossa Senhora do Monte on the main square houses the tomb of Emperor Charles I of Austria, the last emperor of the Habsburg monarchy, who died in exile in Madeira in 1922. The wicker toboggan rides start in front of the church — and here you have a magnificent view over Funchal and the harbor.

Madeira is a botanical garden in itself — the subtropical location, volcanic soil, and irrigation through the levadas create conditions under which plants from all over the world thrive. Funchal and its surroundings have some of the most beautiful gardens in Europe.

Jardim Botânico da Madeira

The Botanical Garden (founded in 1960) is located on a terrace above Funchal and houses over 2,500 plant species from around the world: tropical trees, succulents, orchids, bromeliads, medicinal plants, and — the highlight — the terrace beds with geometrically arranged flower beds in bright colors, which look like a living painting. Admission: €6. Accessible by cable car (Teleférico do Jardim Botânico, €5 from Funchal center).

Cabo Girão

20 kilometers west of Funchal rises Cabo Girão — the second highest sea cliff in Europe (580 m) and one of the highest in the world. Since 2012, a glass viewing platform (Skywalk) juts over the abyss: You stand on transparent glass, and beneath your feet, the rock wall plunges 580 meters vertically into the sea. Below, you can see the Fajãs — narrow terraces at the foot of the cliff, cultivated by cable car from above (vines and bananas!).

Entrance to Cabo Girão is free, parking available. The view is best in the morning (often cloudy in the afternoon). On clear days, the view extends to Funchal in the east and the lighthouse of Ponta do Pargo in the west. Not suitable for those with extreme fear of heights — the glass floor is not for the faint-hearted!

Combination tip: On the way to Cabo Girão, a stop in Câmara de Lobos is worthwhile — a picturesque fishing village that Winston Churchill loved so much that he painted it several times. Colorful fishing boats, a tiny harbor, and the best Poncha bars on the island. From here, hikes along the coast also start.

The Madeira wine (Vinho da Madeira) is one of the most enduring and fascinating wines in the world — a fortified wine that develops its distinctive aromas through a unique heating process (Estufagem) and is virtually eternally durable. Bottles from the 18th century are still drinkable today — and cost a fortune.

The History

The legend says that Madeira wine was discovered by accident: In the 17th century, barrels of island wine were used as ballast on ships to East India. The double crossing of the equator — with extreme heat in the ship's holds — transformed the simple wine into a complex, aromatic beverage that appealed to the wealthy of Europe and America. Today, the heat treatment is replicated in the cellars of Funchal.

The Four Styles

• Sercial: The driest Madeira — light, fresh, with notes of almonds and citrus. Perfect as an aperitif.
• Verdelho: Semi-dry, amber-colored, with aromas of honey, smoke, and dried fruits. Versatile with food.
• Boal (Bual): Semi-sweet, dark, with caramel, coffee, and raisin aromas. Excellent with cheese or desserts.
• Malvasia (Malmsey): The sweetest and richest Madeira — dark, viscous, with aromas of chocolate, dates, and roasted nuts. A meditation wine.

The Best Wine Cellars in Funchal

• Blandy's Wine Lodge: The most famous winery, in the family since 1811. The tour (from €12) leads through historic warehouses with barrels from the 19th century. Tasting included.
• Pereira d'Oliveira: Even more authentic and less touristy than Blandy's. Here you can taste wines from the 1850s (at corresponding prices). The oldest independent winery in Madeira.
• Henriques & Henriques: In Câmara de Lobos, just outside Funchal. Known for excellent quality and fair prices.