Cagliari — The Radiant Capital

Cagliari (Sardinian: Casteddu) is a city that reveals its true nature upon a second glance — and then never lets go. The capital of Sardinia (150,000 inhabitants) stretches over seven hills along the Gulf of Cagliari, combining 3,000 years of history with a modern, vibrant city life that pleasantly distinguishes itself from the tourist monoculture of other Mediterranean capitals.

The heart is the Castello district (also Casteddu 'e Susu, "upper fortress") — the medieval upper town, surrounded by Pisan fortress walls from the 13th century. Here stands the Cattedrale di Santa Maria (13th century, Romanesque-Pisan, with a magnificent Baroque facade), flanked by the two towers Torre di San Pancrazio and Torre dell'Elefante. From the Bastione di Saint Remy — a monumental terrace on the old city walls — there is a breathtaking panorama over the city, the harbor, the lagoons, and the mountains in the hinterland.

Below the Castello stretches the Marina, the former fishing quarter, now with small restaurants, wine bars, and the lively Mercato di San Benedetto — Italy's largest covered market after the Florentine hall. On two floors, you find fish, meat, cheese, fruits, and Sardinian specialties in abundance and freshness that make any foodie's heart beat faster. In the Stampace district lie the early Christian necropolis of Tuvixeddu (the largest Phoenician necropolis in the Mediterranean) and cozy trattorias off the tourist paths.

Cagliari's surprise: the flamingos. In the Molentargius lagoon, right on the city's edge, thousands of pink flamingos live year-round — a surreal image against the city backdrop. The lagoon is a Natura 2000 protected area and can be circled by bike or on foot. And then there's the Spiaggia del Poetto: eight kilometers of fine sandy beach, right by the city, with a view of the distinctive rock Sella del Diavolo (Devil's Saddle). In summer, the beach life pulses here until late at night.