Costa Smeralda & Gallura

The Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) owes its name to the incredibly green hue of its waters — a result of the granite substrate and white sandy bottoms that reflect the sunlight in all shades from turquoise to emerald. The nearly 20-kilometer-long coastal section between the Gulf of Cugnana and the Bay of Arzachena was developed as a luxury destination in the 1960s by Prince Karim Aga Khan and has since become synonymous with Mediterranean glamour.

What sets the Costa Smeralda apart from other jet-set destinations: Here, concrete fortresses were deliberately avoided. A strict building code requires that hotels and villas blend into the landscape — low buildings, earthy colors, natural stone, and macchia vegetation. The result is a coastal strip that, despite the luxury, appears surprisingly natural. The granite rocks, shaped by wind and water into bizarre sculptures, form the backdrop for some of the most beautiful bays in the Mediterranean.

Porto Cervo is the heart of the Costa Smeralda: A designer village with exclusive boutiques (Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana), the famous Piazzetta, the marina full of superyachts, and restaurants where a bottle of water easily costs 10€. In August, international celebrities stroll here — but outside the high season, Porto Cervo is surprisingly relaxed and almost deserted. The neighboring Porto Rotondo is somewhat more reserved but no less elegant.

The best beaches of the Costa Smeralda are Spiaggia del Principe (the "Prince's Beach" — fine white sand, crystal-clear water, framed by juniper), Liscia Ruja (the longest beach of the Costa Smeralda, ideal for families), Romazzino (in front of the luxury hotel of the same name, but publicly accessible), and Capriccioli (a double bay with postcard panorama). All beaches are freely accessible — only loungers and umbrellas cost (20–40€ per set in high season).

The Archipelago of La Maddalena is Sardinia's crown jewel — seven main islands and over 60 islets with the clearest water in the entire Mediterranean. Protected as a National Park since 1994, the archipelago is a paradise of granite rocks, white sand, macchia, and water in shades that no photo can adequately capture. Giuseppe Garibaldi, Italy's national hero, spent his last 26 years on Caprera — his house is now a museum.

La Maddalena (the main island) is the only permanently inhabited island of the archipelago and can be reached by ferry from Palau in 20 minutes (every 15–30 minutes, 5€ per person, 15€ with a car). The town of the same name has a pretty harbor, pastel-colored alleys, and good fish restaurants. From here, boat tours to the uninhabited islands start.

Caprera is connected to La Maddalena by a causeway and offers the most beautiful beaches of the archipelago: Cala Coticcio (the "Tahiti of Sardinia" — two tiny coves with unreal turquoise water, accessible by hike or boat, access limited to 60 people/day) and Cala Napoletana (somewhat more accessible but no less spectacular). Caprera also houses the Garibaldi Museum — the residence of the Italian freedom fighter with original furnishings and his grave under a simple granite column.

Budelli is home to the legendary Spiaggia Rosa (Pink Beach) — named after the pink shimmering sand caused by crushed corals and shells. Since 1994, access to the beach has been prohibited (nature conservation), but viewed from the buoy or from the boat, it remains breathtaking. Spargi has perhaps the most beautiful beach of the archipelago — Cala Corsara: four coves with white sand and water in every imaginable shade of blue. Only accessible by boat charter.

Olbia is Sardinia's gateway to the northeast — with the international Costa Smeralda Airport (OLB) and the island's main ferry port, it is the arrival point for most visitors to the Gallura region. The city itself is often just used as a transit station, but that's a mistake: Olbia has a charming historic center with the Romanesque Basilica of San Simplicio (11th century, the oldest church in Sardinia), a lively pedestrian zone (Corso Umberto), and a new harbor district with restaurants and bars.

In the vicinity of Olbia, there are some sights not to be missed: The Giant's Tomb Coddu Ecchju (10 km southwest) is one of the most impressive megalithic tombs in Sardinia — a 4-meter-high stele marks the entrance to a 10-meter-long corridor tomb from the Bronze Age. The Nuraghe Riu Mulinu is picturesquely located in the macchia and gives a first taste of Sardinia's mysterious Bronze Age culture.

North of Olbia, the Gallura region offers a fascinating landscape of cork oak forests (Sardinia produces 80% of Italy's cork), bizarre granite formations, and the excellent Vermentino di Gallura DOCG — Sardinia's only DOCG wine. A visit to a winery (e.g., Cantina Gallura in Tempio Pausania) is a culinary highlight. Tempio Pausania itself, the "capital" of Gallura at 560 meters altitude, surprises with a cool, green mountain climate and a well-preserved old town made of granite.

Santa Teresa Gallura sits at the northern tip of Sardinia, just 12 kilometers from Corsica — on clear days, the neighboring island seems within reach. The lively coastal town has a pretty central square (Piazza Vittorio Emanuele), a pedestrian zone with boutiques and ice cream parlors, and the spectacular city beach Rena Bianca directly below the center: fine white sand, turquoise water, and views of Corsica — one of the best city beaches in Europe.

East of Santa Teresa lies Capo Testa — a peninsula that looks like a sculpture landscape: huge granite blocks, shaped by wind and sea into surreal forms, form the backdrop for hidden coves like Cala Spinosa and the Valle della Luna (Moon Valley), where a small hippie community has lived since the 1960s. The hike over the rocks of Capo Testa at sunset, with views of Corsica and the Bocche di Bonifacio, is one of the unforgettable moments of a Sardinia trip.

Palau, 25 kilometers east, is the ferry terminal town to the La Maddalena Archipelago and a pleasant coastal town with a good selection of fish restaurants. The landmark is the Bear Rock (Roccia dell'Orso) — a granite rock shaped by the weather on a hill that actually looks like a bear. The short climb (20 minutes) rewards with a 360-degree panorama over the archipelago, the coast, and the mountains of Gallura. Near Palau is also the beautiful beach Porto Pollo — one of the best kite and windsurfing spots in Sardinia thanks to the constant Mistral wind.