Isan & Northeast
Discovering Isan
The Isan (อีสาน) encompasses the entire northeastern region of Thailand — 20 provinces, 170,000 km² (one-third of the country's area), and over 22 million people. It is the Khorat Plateau, a vast, flat highland, bordered to the north and east by the Mekong (border with Laos), to the south by the Dangrek Mountains (border with Cambodia), and to the west by the Phetchabun Mountains.
Culturally, Isan is closer to Laos than to Bangkok. Most inhabitants speak Isan (a Laotian dialect) as their mother tongue, eat sticky rice instead of jasmine rice, and listen to Mor Lam (traditional Isan music) instead of Thai pop. The region was part of the Lan Xang Kingdom (Laos) for centuries, and the Khmer left behind spectacular temples that can rival Angkor.
Tourists rarely come here — and that's exactly the charm. In Isan, you experience Thailand without the tourist infrastructure: no massage signs in English, no banana pancake stands, no full-moon parties. Instead: warm hospitality, incredible food for pennies, and the certainty of experiencing something that 99% of Thailand visitors miss.
Plan at least 5–7 days for Isan. A rental car is ideal, but buses also reliably connect all provincial capitals.
Tipp
English skills are rare in Isan — learn a few words of Thai or Isan, and you'll be showered with enthusiasm. "Sabaai dii" (Hello in Isan/Laotian) instead of "Sawadee khrap/ka" opens hearts immediately. The Google Translate app with downloaded Thai package is your best friend.
Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat) & Phimai★★
Nakhon Ratchasima (known to all as "Korat") is Thailand's largest province with 2.6 million inhabitants and the gateway to Isan. The eponymous capital (450,000 inhabitants) is a lively, modern Thai metropolis without special charm — but a perfect starting point for two top destinations: the Phimai Historical Park and Khao Yai National Park (see separate chapter).
The city's heroine is Thao Suranari (Ya Mo), a woman who allegedly saved the city from a Laotian invasion in 1826. Her monument at the west gate is the city's holiest site — locals bring offerings day and night.
The real highlight of the region lies 60 km northeast: Phimai, a Khmer temple from the 11th–12th century, which architecturally anticipates Angkor Wat and, according to some experts, even served as its model.
Prasat Hin Phimai — Thailand's Angkor★★★
The Phimai Historical Park is the most impressive Khmer monument in Thailand — and after Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, the third-largest structure of the Khmer Empire. The temple was built between the late 11th and early 12th centuries, possibly even before Angkor Wat, and was directly connected to Angkor via a 225 km royal road.
The complex is surprisingly compact and well-preserved. The central prang (tower) made of white sandstone rises 28 m high — its lotus bud top and finely carved lintels (door lintels) are masterpieces of Khmer sculpture. Depictions of scenes from the Ramayana and the life of Buddha adorn the portals.
Unlike Angkor: here you are often almost alone. No ticketing chaos, no tourist buses, no selfie-stick armies. Just you, ancient stones, and the chirping of cicadas.
100 THB (about €2.60). Daily 7:30 am–6 pm. Best in the morning light.
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Also visit the Phimai National Museum (150 THB) right at the entrance — excellent collection of Khmer lintels and the famous statue of King Jayavarman VII from the 12th century. In November, the Phimai Festival with light and sound show takes place at the ruins.
Arrival & Practical Information
To Korat
- Bus (recommended): From Bangkok (Mo Chit): every 20–30 min. 1st class: 250 THB (approx. 6.60€). Duration: 3–4 hours.
- Train: From Bang Sue Grand: 4–5 hours. 2nd class: 200 THB (approx. 5.30€).
- Car: 260 km via Highway 2 (Friendship Highway). About 3 hours.
To Phimai (from Korat)
Bus No. 1305: From Korat Bus Terminal 2. Every 30 min., 1.5 hours, 60 THB (approx. 1.60€). Phimai is also an easy day trip.
Dining in Korat
Korat has the best Pad Mee Korat — the local variant of Pad Thai with thicker noodles, tomato paste instead of tamarind, and a sweet-spicy-savory sauce. Try it at the Ya Mo Market (night market by the monument) from 30 THB (approx. 0.80€).
Khon Kaen — Capital of Isan★★
Khon Kaen (180,000 inhabitants) is the unofficial capital of Isan — a modern university town with a surprisingly cosmopolitan flair, the best Isan cuisine in the region, and a vibrant nightlife. Khon Kaen University (40,000 students) provides youthful energy, creative cafés, and a lively art scene.
For tourists, Khon Kaen is less of a destination and more of an excellent stopover and springboard. The city has the best airport in Isan (cheap flights from Bangkok), excellent bus connections in all directions, and the highest density of good food in the entire region.
Highlights: the Dinosaur Museum (Isan is Thailand's dino hotspot), the atmospheric Bueng Kaen Nakhon Lake in the city center with jogging path and evening market, and the opportunity to experience authentic Isan life in a real Thai metropolis.
Attractions & Tips
★★ Phu Wiang Dinosaur Museum & National Park
80 km northwest of Khon Kaen: Here, in 1976, the first dinosaur fossil in Thailand was discovered — a sauropod named "Phuwiangosaurus sirindhornae" after the princess. The modern museum displays complete skeletons, interactive exhibits, and a dinosaur garden. In the national park, you can visit nine excavation sites on a 1.5 km trail.
Museum: 150 THB (about €4). National park: 200 THB (about €5.30). Both daily 9 am–5 pm.
★★ Bueng Kaen Nakhon
A 100-hectare lake in the middle of the city — Khon Kaen's green lung. Best at sunset: Thai families jogging, monks strolling, food stalls setting up, and a 9 m high white Buddha on an island glowing golden. On the south shore: evening market with the best street food in town.
★ Wat Nong Wang
Nine-story pagoda (Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon) on the lakeshore — 80 m high, with a museum on each floor and a 360° panoramic view from the roof over the entire city and the Isan plain. Free. Daily 8 am–5 pm.
Nightlife
The Khon Kaen Walking Street (Saturdays from 4 pm, Soi Isan) and the university pubs around Khon Kaen University are the best places to experience Mor Lam music live — hypnotic Isan folk music with electronic beats. Beer from 60 THB (about €1.60).
Arrival
- Flight (recommended): AirAsia, Nok Air, Thai Lion from Bangkok Don Mueang. 1 hour, from 900 THB (approx. 24€) one way. Thai Smile from Suvarnabhumi also 1 hr.
- Bus: From Bangkok (Mo Chit): 6–7 hours. VIP bus: 450 THB (approx. 12€) with large seats and snacks.
- Train: From Bang Sue Grand: 6–8 hours. Night train with sleeper: 600–900 THB (approx. 16–24€) — one of Thailand's most beautiful train experiences.
- Car: 450 km via the Friendship Highway (Route 2). About 4.5–5 hours.
Udon Thani & Ban Chiang★★
Udon Thani (390,000 inhabitants) is a bustling Isan trading city with a large expat community (many Britons, Americans, and Scandinavians live here with Thai partners) and good infrastructure. The city itself is not a beauty, but the surroundings hold two exceptional destinations.
Ban Chiang, 50 km east, is one of the most important archaeological sites in Southeast Asia and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ceramics and bronze artifacts dating back to 3600 BC were found here — millennia before the previously assumed Bronze Age in the region. The discovery turned the entire chronology of Southeast Asian civilization upside down.
And the Red Lotus Sea (Talay Bua Daeng) — a lake that transforms into an unreal sea of millions of pink lotus flowers every winter (December–February) — is one of Thailand's most fascinating natural spectacles.
Ban Chiang — UNESCO World Heritage★★★
The excavation site and museum of Ban Chiang document a continuous human settlement over 4,000 years — from the Bronze Age to the first millennium AD. The famous red-painted ceramics with their spiral patterns (about 300 BC–200 AD) have become a symbol of Thai early history.
The Ban Chiang National Museum in the village displays ceramics, bronze weapons, jewelry, skeletons in original graves, and explains the significance of the finds for understanding Southeast Asian civilization. A second exhibition area is located in the temple grounds of Wat Pho Si Nai, where you can see an open excavation site with skeletons and grave goods in situ.
Museum: 150 THB (about €4). Excavation site: included. Both Wed–Sun 9 am–4 pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
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The village of Ban Chiang itself is an experience — a sleepy Isan village where residents decorate their front yards with replicas of the famous ceramics. Local artists sell handmade reproductions from 200 THB (about €5.30) — beautiful, authentic souvenirs.
Red Lotus Sea (Talay Bua Daeng)★★
Every winter, the Nong Han Kumphawapi Lake, 40 km south of Udon Thani, transforms into a surreal spectacle: millions of pink lotus flowers cover the water surface as far as the eye can see. The "Red Lotus Sea" (although the flowers are more pink) stretches over 20 km² and is best experienced by boat.
The flowers open in the morning between 6 and 11 am — after which they close again. The best time is December to February, with the peak in mid-January. Boats (longtail) depart from the pier in Kumphawapi: 500 THB per boat (up to 4 people) for a 1.5-hour tour through the lotus fields.
It is a place of otherworldly beauty — silent, pink water to the horizon, interrupted by fishing boats and the song of water birds.
Achtung
Only seasonal: December to February (peak in mid-January). Outside this time, there is nothing to see. Arrive at 6–7 am for the best bloom and softest light. Bring sunscreen and a hat — there is no shade on the lake.
Arrival & Practical Information
To Udon Thani
- Flight: AirAsia, Nok Air, Thai Lion from Bangkok Don Mueang. 1 hour, from 900 THB (about €24). Also direct flights from Chiang Mai.
- Bus: From Bangkok (Mo Chit): 8–9 hours. VIP night bus: 550 THB (about €14.50).
- Night train: From Bang Sue Grand: 10 hours. 2nd class sleeper: 800 THB (about €21). Departure 8 pm, arrival 6 am. Comfortable and saves a night in a hotel.
To the Attractions
Ban Chiang: Songthaew from Udon Thani to Ban Chiang: 50–60 THB, 1 hour. Or rental car (easy road).
Red Lotus Sea: No public transport. Rental car/scooter to Kumphawapi (40 km, 45 min). Or tour from Udon: 800–1,200 THB (about €21–32) incl. boat and transport.
Nong Khai & The Mekong★★
Nong Khai is a sleepy small town on the southern bank of the Mekong — directly opposite is Vientiane, the capital of Laos. The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge (1994) connects the two countries, and Nong Khai is the most popular border crossing between Thailand and Laos.
But Nong Khai deserves more than just a transit stop. The city has an enchanting Mekong charm: a long riverside promenade with French colonial influences, old teak houses, a fantastic sunset over the river, and one of the quirkiest sculpture parks in Asia.
Every October, the mysterious Naga Fireball Phenomenon occurs here — glowing balls supposedly rise from the Mekong. Hundreds of thousands come to see it. Science or supernatural? The debate has been ongoing for centuries.
Tipp
Nong Khai is the perfect place to relax for a few days by the Mekong. Rent a bicycle (50 THB/day) and ride along the riverside road. In the evening, eat grilled Mekong fish at Tha Sadet Market (from 100 THB/about €2.60), accompanied by a cold Beer Lao (smuggled across the border and better than Chang).
Attractions
★★★ Sala Kaew Ku (Sculpture Park)
The craziest sculpture park in Southeast Asia — and perhaps the world. Created in 1978 by the mystical monk Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, the park houses over 200 gigantic concrete sculptures of Buddhist and Hindu deities. A 25-meter-high seated Buddha, a 25-meter-long reclining figure, seven-headed Nagas, demons, elephants, and surreal hybrid creatures — all made of concrete, all gigantic, all somewhere between religious devotion and outsider art.
Inside the main building: a seven-story spiral staircase lined with sculptures depicting the wheel of life — from birth through suffering to enlightenment. At the top, the view of the entire park and the Mekong.
40 THB (approx. 1€). Daily 8–17 hrs. 5 km east of the city.
★★ Mekong Riverside Promenade (Tha Sadet)
The most relaxed promenade in Isan. Old teak houses, boutique cafés in renovated colonial buildings, the Tha Sadet Market (Mon–Fri afternoons) with goods from Laos (textiles, coffee, whisky). On Saturdays and Sundays, a large evening market with street food and live music by the riverside.
★ Phra That Nong Khai (Sunken Chedi)
Built in 1847, swallowed by the Mekong in 1847 — the ruins of a chedi jut askew from the riverbed, fully visible only in the dry season (March–May). A surreal sight and a popular photo motif. 3 km west of the city on the riverbank.
Border Crossing to Laos
The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge is the easiest border crossing to Laos. Bus over the bridge: 55 THB (approx. 1.45€), 15 minutes. Laos visa on arrival: 30–42 USD (depending on nationality). Vientiane can be reached in 30 minutes from the bridge. Germans need a visa (36 USD, bring passport + photo).
Dining & Accommodation
Dining
Daeng Namnueng · Rimkhong Rd (by the river)
Nong Khai's most famous restaurant — Vietnamese spring rolls (Namnueng) that you roll yourself: rice paper, herbs, rice noodles, grilled pork. A set for 2 people: 200 THB (approx. 5.30€). An institution for decades.
Tha Sadet Evening Market · Saturday & Sunday
Grilled Mekong fish (Pla Pao), Larb, Som Tam, Sticky Rice, grilled skewers. Meal from 50 THB (approx. 1.30€). Plus live Mor Lam music.
Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse Restaurant
The traveler center of Nong Khai — vegetarian and Thai cuisine in the garden right by the Mekong. Excellent breakfast. 80–200 THB (approx. 2–5.30€).
Accommodation
€ Budget: Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse — legendary backpacker paradise by the Mekong. Wooden bungalows in the garden, hammocks, yoga, bike rental. Double room from 400 THB (approx. 10.50€). Book early — always full.
€€ Mid-range: Nong Khai Grand Hotel — Best mid-range hotel in town. Clean, central, pool. Double room from 900 THB (approx. 24€).
€€ Boutique: The Rim — Stylishly renovated house by the riverside. Balcony with Mekong view, minimalist design. Double room from 1,500 THB (approx. 40€).
Arrival
- Train (recommended): From Bang Sue Grand to Nong Khai: 10–11 hours. Night train with sleeper: 800–1,100 THB (approx. 21–29€). Departure 18–20 hrs, arrival 5–7 hrs in the morning. One of Thailand's classic train journeys.
- Flight: Via Udon Thani (55 km south). From Bangkok Don Mueang: 1 hour, from 900 THB. Then bus or taxi (300–500 THB) to Nong Khai.
- Bus: From Bangkok (Mo Chit): 10–11 hours. VIP night bus: 600 THB (approx. 16€). From Udon Thani: 1 hour, 50 THB.
Isan Cuisine — Thailand's Best Cuisine★★★
Isan cuisine is not only the most popular regional cuisine in Thailand — it is the cuisine that has made Thai gastronomy famous worldwide. Som Tam, Larb, Gai Yang, Sticky Rice: all originate from Isan. In Bangkok, every second street restaurant has an Isan menu, and more and more Isan restaurants are appearing in the Michelin Guides.
Isan cuisine is spicy, sour, salty, and funky — "funky" refers to the fermented flavors of fish sauce (Nam Pla), fermented fish (Pla Ra), and fermented sausage (Sai Krok Isan). Those who don't like Pla Ra will have problems in Isan — the dark brown, intensely smelling fish paste is in almost every dish. But it gives the cuisine its unique depth.
In Isan itself, the dishes are more authentic, spicier, and cheaper than anywhere else in Thailand. A complete meal costs 30–60 THB (about €0.80–1.60).
Tipp
Always order "Khao Niao" (sticky rice) as a side dish — in Isan, everything is eaten with sticky rice, never with jasmine rice. The rice is served in small bamboo baskets. You take a portion with your fingers, form a ball, and dip it into the sauces and salads. This is how Isan eats.
The Most Important Dishes
★★★ Som Tam (Green Papaya Salad)
The national dish of Isan — and the most commonly eaten dish in Thailand overall. Shredded green papaya, tomatoes, green beans, peanuts, dried shrimp, chili, lime, fish sauce, and palm sugar, pounded in a mortar. The result: an explosion of spicy-sour-sweet-salty.
In Isan, there are dozens of variations:
Som Tam Thai — the mild "tourist version" with peanuts and dried shrimp
Som Tam Pla Ra — the authentic Isan version with fermented fish (more intense!)
Som Tam Pu — with small black river crabs (caution: raw, not for sensitive stomachs)
Som Tam Ponlamai — sweet version with fresh fruits
30–50 THB (about €0.80–1.30) everywhere in Isan
★★★ Larb (Minced Meat Salad)
A spicy-sour salad made from minced meat (pork, chicken, duck, fish, or beef), seasoned with lime juice, fish sauce, chili, roasted rice powder (Khao Khua), shallots, and fresh herbs. The roasted rice powder gives the characteristic nutty note and light texture.
Larb Dip is the raw version (especially with pork or beef) — an Isan classic that you won't find outside the region. Only for the brave with iron stomachs.
40–60 THB (about €1–1.60)
★★★ Gai Yang (Grilled Chicken)
Whole chicken, marinated in garlic, coriander roots, white pepper, and fish sauce, slowly grilled over charcoal. The marinade and slow grilling make the difference — the meat is juicy, the skin crispy, the aroma smoky-spicy. Always served with sticky rice and Nam Jim (spicy dip).
Half chicken: 80–120 THB (about €2–3.20). Whole chicken: 150–200 THB (about €4–5.30)
★★ Sai Krok Isan (Fermented Sausage)
Small, fermented pork sausages with rice and garlic — sour, slightly funky, grilled and served with fresh ginger, chili, and peanuts. A perfect beer snack and an Isan classic found at every street stall.
10–20 THB per portion (about €0.25–0.50)
★★ Nam Tok (Waterfall Salad)
Similar to Larb, but with grilled, sliced meat instead of minced meat. The name ("Waterfall") comes from the meat juices that run out when sliced. Usually with beef (Nam Tok Nuea) — smoky, tender, spicy.
50–80 THB (about €1.30–2)
★★ Sup Nor Mai (Bamboo Shoot Salad)
Spicy-sour salad made from tender bamboo shoots, seasoned like Larb. A dish practically unknown outside of Isan — and there, one of the most popular everyday dishes.
40–60 THB (about €1–1.60)
Drinks & Dining Culture
Drinks
Lao Khao — Homemade rice schnapps, clear, 40% alcohol. Available everywhere in Isan for 30–50 THB per bottle. Drunk with ice and soda. Quality ranges from "okay" to "dangerous".
Beer Lao — Smuggled from neighboring Laos and more popular in Isan than Thai beer. Fuller-bodied than Chang or Singha. 50–80 THB (about €1.30–2) in restaurants.
Nam Ma Kham — Tamarind juice, sweet-sour and refreshing. 10–20 THB everywhere.
Dining Culture in Isan
In Isan, people eat on the floor (or low platforms), with the right hand and sticky rice. All dishes come at once — there are no courses. Everything is shared. The sticky rice replaces the cutlery: a lump of rice, briefly dipped in the sauce, into the mouth. Fork and spoon are, of course, also available, but the authentic way is with the hands.
The most important social ritual: eating and drinking together. If a Thai in Isan invites you to eat (»Kin Khao Mai?« — »Do you want to eat rice?«), never refuse. It is more than a meal — it is a sign of friendship and respect.
Isan for Adventurers
Isan is the region for travelers who want to leave tourist Thailand behind. No English menus, no banana pancakes, no air-conditioned tourist buses. This is where the real adventure begins — and you don't need a climbing rope, just curiosity and openness.
Insider Tips & Off-the-beaten-path
★★★ Pha Taem National Park
On the Laotian border, Ubon Ratchathani Province: 3,000-year-old rock paintings on a 200-meter-high cliff above the Mekong. Giant fish, handprints, and geometric patterns painted by prehistoric hunters. The sunrise here — when the first rays turn the cliff and the Mekong below golden — is one of the most magical moments Thailand has to offer.
200 THB (approx. 5.30€). Dawn until 18 hrs. Camping possible (30 THB + tent 225 THB). 95 km from Ubon Ratchathani.
★★★ Phu Kradueng National Park
Loei Province: a 1,316-meter-high plateau accessible only on foot — a 5 km steep ascent (3–4 hours), rewarded with a high plateau full of pine forests, waterfalls, cliffs with panoramic views, and wildlife. A pilgrimage site for Thai hikers. Closed June–September.
400 THB (approx. 10.50€). Porters for luggage: 30 THB/kg. Overnight on the plateau: tent or simple huts.
★★ Prasat Phanom Rung
Buriram Province: the most spectacular Khmer temple in Thailand — on an extinct volcano (402 m), accessible via a monumental staircase and a Naga-lined approach. The temple (10th–13th century) is dedicated to Shiva and has perfectly restored lintels. Four times a year (April and September), the sun aligns perfectly through all 15 doorways — a phenomenon that attracts thousands.
100 THB (approx. 2.60€). Daily 6–18 hrs. 120 km south of Korat.
★★ Mukdahan & Phu Pha Thoep
Mukdahan on the Mekong, opposite Savannakhet (Laos). Worth seeing: the Mukdahan Tower (65 m, panoramic view over the Mekong to Laos) and the Phu Pha Thoep National Park with bizarre mushroom-shaped rock formations that look like they're from another planet. 200 THB entrance.
★ Experience the Mor Lam Festival
Mor Lam (หมอลำ) is the traditional music of Isan — hypnotic melodies on the Khaen (mouth organ), accompanied by singing and dancing. Modern Mor Lam shows are gigantic open-air spectacles with LED stages, go-go dancers, comedians, and tens of thousands of spectators. Experience a "Mor Lam Sing" evening in Khon Kaen or Udon Thani — an experience 99% of tourists never see. Often free entry, beer 60 THB.
Practical Tips for Isan
Transport
Rental Car: The best option. The highways in Isan are well-developed, the traffic much calmer than in central Thailand. Rental cars from Khon Kaen or Udon Thani Airport from 800 THB/day (approx. 21€). International driving license required.
Buses: All provincial capitals are connected by air-conditioned buses (NCA and 999 are the best companies). Reliable and affordable.
Scooter: From 200 THB/day in larger cities. Ideal for day trips.
Accommodation
Isan has no hostels and few boutique hotels. Instead: simple guesthouses (from 300 THB/approx. 8€) and surprisingly comfortable business hotels in the provincial capitals (from 600–800 THB/approx. 16–21€ with breakfast and pool). Booking.com and Agoda have plenty of options.
Money
ATMs are available in every provincial capital and most 7-Elevens. Credit cards are rarely accepted outside hotels — always carry enough cash. The ATM fee is 220 THB (approx. 5.80€) per withdrawal — withdraw larger amounts.
Language
English is rare in Isan. It's manageable in hotels and restaurants in the provincial capitals, but difficult in rural areas. Google Translate (download Thai offline!) and a smile are your most important tools. The people in Isan are incredibly friendly and helpful — if you try a few words of Thai, you'll be met with enthusiasm and often an invitation to a meal.
Best Travel Time
November to February: Cool (15–28°C), dry, pleasant. Best time for everything.
March to May: Extremely hot (35–42°C). Hard to bear for sightseeing.
June to October: Rainy season. Green landscapes, but daily showers and muddy paths.
Achtung
The sun in Isan is relentless — especially from March to May. Sun protection (factor 50+), a hat, and plenty of water are essential. Heatstroke is a real danger. Plan activities for the morning and late afternoon, spend the midday heat (11–15 hrs) in the shade.
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