Eating in the North — Khao Soi, Sai Ua & more

The northern Thai cuisine (Ahan Phak Nuea) is a distinct culinary world that differs from Bangkok's cuisine as much as Bavarian does from northern German. The flavors are stronger, smokier, more bitter, and tart — less sweet than in the center, less coconut-milky than in the south, with an emphasis on fermented ingredients, herbs, and sticky rice instead of jasmine rice. Those who only know Pad Thai and Tom Yum will be culinarily reborn in Chiang Mai.

The flagship of northern Thai cuisine is Khao Soi — an addictive dish. This Burmese-Lanna fusion consists of egg noodles in a creamy curry coconut soup with tender chicken or beef, topped with a nest of crispy fried noodles. Accompanied by: pickled cabbage, shallots, and a squeeze of lime. The balance of creamy, crispy, spicy, and sour is perfect. The best addresses:

• Khao Soi Khun Yai (Sri Phum Road) — revered by locals as the best Khao Soi in town. Tiny shop, huge flavor. Only until 2 PM, then sold out.
• Khao Soi Mae Sai (Fa Ham) — an institution for over 30 years. The falling-off-the-bone beef version is legendary.
• Khao Soi Nimman (Nimman Soi 7) — more tourist-friendly, but the quality is right.

Sai Ua (northern Thai sausage) is the second must-try dish: coarsely chopped pork, seasoned with a fireworks of lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, dried chili, turmeric, and shrimp paste, then stuffed into natural casings and grilled over charcoal. The result is a flavor explosion — smoky, spicy, herby, with a complexity that makes any butcher envious. Best found at the Warorot Market (50-80 THB/piece) or any stall on the Walking Streets.

Other Lanna classics you must try:

• Nam Prik Ong — a hearty dip made from tomatoes, minced meat, and chili paste, served with raw vegetables and crispy pork skin (Khaep Mu). The ultimate Thai snack experience.
• Gaeng Hang Lay — a Burmese-influenced curry of pork belly with ginger, tamarind, and peanuts. Sweet-sour, profound, irresistible. Not a coconut milk curry, but a dark, complex broth.
• Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiaw — rice noodles in a blood-red tomato-pork rib soup with fermented soybean cake. Looks intimidating, tastes heavenly.
• Larb Mueang — the northern Thai version of Larb: minced meat with blood, dried chili, herbs, and roasted rice powder. More intense and tart than the Isaan version.
• Khao Niao (sticky rice) — in the north, sticky rice is eaten with everything. It comes in small bamboo baskets (Kratip) and is rolled into balls with the fingers, which are dipped into curries, dips, and soups.

Chiang Mai has also become Thailand's cooking class capital in recent years. Dozens of cooking schools offer half-day and full-day courses (from 900 THB/~23€), where you shop at the market in the morning and then cook 4-6 dishes. Recommended: Thai Farm Cooking School (on a farm outside the city, you harvest the ingredients yourself), Mama Noi Cooking Class (small, personal, family-like) and Asia Scenic Thai Cooking School (one of the oldest, solid quality).