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Regionen · Kapitel 6

Bukhara

Uzbekistan Reiseführer

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RegionenKapitel 6: Bukhara
Regionen · Kapitel 6

Bukhara

Bukhara is the soul of Uzbekistan — a 2,500-year-old city where over 140 historical buildings form a vibrant open-air museum. While Samarkand overwhelms with monumentality, Bukhara enchants with atmosphere, intimacy, and the feeling of stepping into another time.

Discover Bukhara

Bukhara (Uzbek Buxoro) is perhaps the most atmospheric city on the entire Silk Road. While Samarkand impresses with its monuments and Khiva is an open-air museum, Bukhara feels alive and authentic — a city where ancient Central Asia still breathes.

The history dates back over 2,500 years. Bukhara was a center of Islamic knowledge and theology — it bore the nickname “Bukhara-yi Sharif" (the Noble) and was considered one of the holiest cities of Islam alongside Mecca and Medina. Scholars like Avicenna (Ibn Sina) and the Hadith scholar al-Bukhari, whose collection is considered the second most important book in Islam after the Quran, worked here.

The old town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993. On a few square kilometers, you will find over 140 historical buildings: mosques, madrasas, minarets, caravanserais, hammams, and the famous covered bazaars (Trading Domes). Plan at least 2 days — better 3.

Orientation

Bukhara's old town is compact and pedestrian-friendly — everything is within 1–2 km:

  • Lyabi-Hauz: The central square with a pond, surrounded by madrasas and restaurants. Starting point for explorations and the most atmospheric place in the evening.
  • Ark Fortress & Po-i-Kalon: Northwest of Lyabi-Hauz. The fortress and the famous Kalon Minaret complex.
  • Trading Domes: Between Lyabi-Hauz and Ark. Three covered bazaars from the 16th century.
  • Chor-Minor: East of the old town, slightly off the beaten path. The four minarets are Bukhara's most photogenic motif.
  • New Town: North of the old town. Hotels, restaurants, supermarkets.

Sights

Po-i-Kalon Complex — Bukhara's Crown Jewel

The Po-i-Kalon (“Foot of the Great") is the heart of the historic city — an ensemble of three buildings that ranks among the most impressive in Central Asia:

  • Kalon Minaret (1127): The 47 m high tower is Bukhara's landmark and has been the tallest building in the city for 900 years. Built from fired bricks with 14 different ornamental bands — each unique. Legend has it that Genghis Khan was so impressed that he spared the minaret as the only building when he destroyed Bukhara in 1220. It also once served as a “Tower of Death": convicts were thrown from the top.
  • Kalon Mosque (1514): One of the largest mosques in Central Asia. The vast courtyard with 288 domes and a capacity for 12,000 worshippers is overwhelming in its simple elegance.
  • Mir-i-Arab Madrasah (1535): Opposite the mosque, with two turquoise domes. An active Islamic college — it was never closed even during the Soviet era and still trains theologians today. Entry is for students only, but the view from outside is fantastic.

Ark Fortress

The Ark is a massive fortress (5th century) that served as the seat of Bukhara's rulers for over 1,000 years — most recently the Emir, who resided here until 1920. Inside the walls: throne room, mosque, dungeon, and a small museum on the history of the emirate. The walls are up to 20 m high and appear impregnable. From the terrace: fantastic view over the old town and the Kalon Minaret. Admission: approx. 25,000 UZS (~2€).

Lyabi-Hauz Ensemble

The Lyabi-Hauz (1620) is a rectangular pond surrounded by mulberry trees, two madrasas, and a caravanserai. Here, all of Bukhara sits outside in the evening: tourists, locals, tea drinkers, shashlik eaters. The Nadir-Divan-Begi Madrasah (1622) by the pond features mythical creatures and suns with human faces on its portal — another “violation" of the image ban, celebrated today as a work of art. The atmosphere at Lyabi-Hauz at sunset is magical.

Trading Domes

Bukhara's famous covered bazaars from the 16th century are located on the historic trade route between Ark and Lyabi-Hauz:

  • Taki-Zargaron: The jeweler's bazaar. Today: jewelry, miniature paintings, souvenirs.
  • Taki-Telpak-Furushon: Once a hatmaker's bazaar. Today: textiles, Suzani embroideries, silk.
  • Taki-Sarrafon: The money changer's bazaar. Today: carpets, antiques, ceramics.

The domes regulated the climate — cool in summer, protected in winter. Today they are souvenir paradises with fairer prices than at the main attractions.

Chor-Minor

The Chor-Minor (1807, “Four Minarets") is Bukhara's most photogenic building: Four small, individually decorated towers crown a gatehouse — not a minaret in the true sense, but the entrance gate of a long-vanished madrasah. Hidden in a residential area east of the old town, away from the tourist crowds. Admission: free (tip for the guardian).

Bolo-Hauz Mosque

Opposite the Ark Fortress. The 20 carved wooden columns of the terrace reflect in a water basin — an iconic photo motif. The mosque (1712) served as the Emir's Friday mosque. The wood carvings are exquisite.

Food & Culture in Bukhara

Bukhara's Cuisine

Bukhara has its own culinary traditions, distinct from Tashkent and Samarkand:

  • Osh-i-Sofiy (Bukhara Plov): Bukhara Plov is made with green mung beans instead of chickpeas and is slightly lighter than the Tashkent version.
  • Jiz: Lamb offal (liver, heart, lung), quickly fried with onions. A Bukhara classic that the brave should definitely try.
  • Sumalak: A sweet wheatgrass dish that is cooked for days for the Navruz festival (March 21). The preparation is a communal ritual — women cook and sing all night.
  • Bugursak: Small fried dough balls, served with honey or powdered sugar. The perfect accompaniment to tea.

Where to Eat?

  • Lyabi-Hauz Restaurants: Restaurants line up around the pond. Touristy, but the atmosphere in the evening is unbeatable. Main course 3–8€.
  • Old Bukhara Restaurant: Traditional cuisine in a beautiful historic house with a courtyard. One of the best restaurants in the city.
  • Chaikhana Sahil: Directly at Lyabi-Hauz. Tea, shashlik, and plov by candlelight by the water.
  • Bazaar Food: The small bazaar in the old town has stalls with samsa, non, and fresh fruit.

Crafts & Shopping

Bukhara is the craft center of Uzbekistan:

  • Suzani Embroideries: The famous hand-embroidered textiles with floral motifs. Prices: 20–500€ depending on size and quality. Note: Machine-made Suzanis are available for 5–10€ — the difference can be seen on the back.
  • Silk Scissors (Bukhara Scissors): Hand-forged scissors in the shape of a stork. A classic souvenir (5–15€).
  • Miniature Painting: Persian miniatures painted on silk paper. In the Taki-Zargaron and in the Nadir-Divan-Begi Madrasah.
  • Carpets: Bukhara carpets are world-famous. In the Taki-Sarrafon and specialized shops. Shipping to Germany is often arranged.

Tipp

Sitting by the Lyabi-Hauz in the evening, drinking tea and watching the hustle and bustle — that's pure Bukhara. The restaurants directly by the pond are a bit more expensive, but the atmosphere with the illuminated madrasas in the background is worth every cent.

Practical Tips for Bukhara

Arrival

  • Afrosiyob train from Samarkand: 1.5h, approx. 70,000–120,000 UZS (5–9€). The most comfortable option. 2–3 connections daily. Book online: railway.uz.
  • Afrosiyob from Tashkent: 3.5h direct, approx. 120,000–180,000 UZS (9–14€).
  • Shared taxi from Samarkand: 3–4h, 50,000–80,000 UZS (4–6€) per person. The route leads through barren steppe — scenically impressive.
  • Airplane: Bukhara has an airport (BHK) with connections to Tashkent (1h, from 25€).

Local Transport

The old town is completely walkable. From the train station to the old town: Taxi (2–3€, 15 min.). In the old town, you don't need a taxi — all sights are within a 20-minute radius.

Accommodation

  • Budget: Rumi Hostel, Saasha Special Hostel — clean, central, 8–12€/night.
  • Mid-range: Boutique Hotel Minzifa, Komil Bukhara — in historic buildings, courtyard, 20–40€/double room. Our recommendation!
  • High-end: Hotel Amelia, Lyabi House — restored historic buildings, 50–90€/double room.

Further Travel to Khiva

The route Bukhara–Khiva (approx. 450 km) is the longest stage of the classic Uzbekistan route:

  • Shared taxi: 6–7h through the desert. 100,000–150,000 UZS (8–12€) per person. The most common method. Departure at the bus station in the morning.
  • Train: Night train Bukhara–Urgench (nearest major city to Khiva), approx. 8–10h. From 30,000 UZS (2–3€). Little comfort, but an experience.
  • Flight: Bukhara–Urgench with Uzbekistan Airways (1h, from 25€). The fastest, but also most impersonal option.

Achtung

The journey Bukhara–Khiva through the desert is long (6–7h) and hot in summer. Bring enough water (at least 2 liters per person), snacks, and something to read. The landscape is monotonous — but the arrival in Khiva makes up for everything.

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