Luxor & Upper Egypt

The Temple of Karnak is the largest religious complex ever created by human hands. Over a period of almost 2,000 years (from the 12th Dynasty to the Ptolemaic period), over 30 pharaohs built, expanded, and beautified this complex. It covers an area of 100 hectares — larger than many European old towns.

The Great Hypostyle Hall

The absolute highlight is the Great Hypostyle Hall — a forest of 134 massive columns covering an area of 5,000 m². The 12 central columns are 23 m high and have a diameter of 3.5 m — so thick that 6 adults are needed to encircle one column. The columns once supported a roof, and the walls are still covered with detailed reliefs depicting battle scenes, worship of gods, and offering rituals. In the morning, when the first light falls obliquely through the columns, it is overwhelming.

Avenue of Sphinxes

The recently restored Avenue of Sphinxes connects the Karnak Temple with the Luxor Temple — a 2.7 km long processional road, lined with over 1,350 sphinxes (partly ram-headed, partly human-headed). The avenue was completed under Nectanebo I. (380–362 BC) and served the annual Opet Festival, during which the statues of the gods were carried from Karnak to Luxor.

Sound and Light Show

Every evening, a sound and light show takes place in German, English, French, and Arabic. You wander through the illuminated temple at night while a voice narrates the 3,000-year history. Touristy, but the lighting of the columns is indeed atmospheric. 350 LE, starts after sunset.

The Luxor Temple stands in the middle of the modern city, right on the Nile — a 3,400-year-old temple surrounded by everyday life. In the evening, when the temple is illuminated and the Corniche promenade comes to life, the atmosphere is almost magical.

The temple was mainly built by Amenhotep III. (1390–1352 BC) and Ramses II. and was dedicated to the god Amun. In front of the entrance stands the famous Pylon of Ramses II. with its monumental reliefs and a single obelisk — its twin has stood on the Place de la Concorde in Paris since 1836 (a "gift" from Egypt to France, now seen as controversial).

Particularly fascinating is the layering of history: Inside the temple stands a 13th-century mosque (Abu el-Haggag), whose foundation rests on the ancient temple ruins. A perfect symbol of the continuity of Egyptian history.

The Valley of the Kings (Wadi al-Muluk) is the largest necropolis of ancient Egypt — a remote dry valley on the west side of the Nile, where the most powerful pharaohs of the New Kingdom were buried for over 500 years (1539–1075 BC). 63 tombs are known, many with breathtaking wall paintings depicting the pharaoh on his journey to the afterlife.

The Most Important Tombs

• KV62 — Tutankhamun: The most famous tomb in the world, discovered by Howard Carter in 1922. Small, but the wall paintings are well preserved. The mummy still lies in the tomb (the only royal mummy that remains in its tomb). Extra ticket: 600 LE.
• KV9 — Ramses VI.: One of the most beautifully decorated tombs. The ceiling paintings with astronomical depictions (sky goddess Nut swallowing the sun) are a masterpiece. Included in the standard ticket — a must-visit!
• KV17 — Seti I.: The longest and most magnificent tomb in the valley (137 m deep). The paintings are among the best that ancient Egyptian art produced. Currently accessible only with special permission.
• KV34 — Thutmose III.: The "Napoleon of Egypt" — the tomb lies deep in the mountain and requires climbing over ladders. Almost deserted and with unique stick figure depictions on the walls.
• KV2 — Ramses IV.: Well-preserved paintings and a huge granite sarcophagus. Easily accessible, included in the standard ticket.

Practical Information

• The standard ticket allows access to 3 tombs (varying selection). Tutankhamun and Seti I. cost extra.
• Photography is prohibited in most tombs (enforced). Camera ticket for the open tombs: 300 LE.
• The temperature in the tombs is 30–35 °C with high humidity — it is stuffy and cramped. Claustrophobics should stick to larger tombs.
• Tuff-tuff train (tram) from the entrance to the valley entrance: 10 LE, saves a 15 min. walk in the heat.

The Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut is one of the most architecturally daring structures of ancient Egypt. Three elegant terraces are built into the limestone cliffs of Deir el-Bahari, connected by ramps and lined with colonnades. The building looks as if it has grown out of the mountain — a harmonious fusion of nature and architecture that was millennia ahead of its time.

Hatshepsut (reigned 1479–1458 BC) was the only woman to hold the full pharaonic title. She had herself depicted in reliefs with the false king's beard and male clothing. Her stepson Thutmose III. systematically destroyed many of her depictions and name cartouches after her death — an ancient act of damnatio memoriae. Nevertheless, many reliefs are still preserved, including the famous scenes of the Expedition to Punt (East Africa), showing trade relations, exotic animals, and incense trees.

The temple is particularly impressive in the morning when the sun casts a golden glow on the cliffs and the shadow of the colonnades falls on the bright stone.

Aswan is Egypt's most beautiful city — and the exact opposite of Cairo. Here, at the first Nile cataract, the river flows calmly between reddish-brown granite rocks and palm islands. The air is drier, the sky clearer, the pace slower. Aswan has always been the gateway to Nubia and Africa, and Nubian culture still shapes the city today: colorful houses, different music, different cuisine.

Philae Temple (Temple of Isis)

The Temple of Isis on the island of Philae is one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt — and has a dramatic history: In the 1970s, it was threatened with submersion by Lake Nasser. In a spectacular UNESCO rescue operation, it was dismantled block by block and rebuilt on the higher island of Agilkia. The boat ride to the island (included in the ticket), the temple with its Ptolemaic reliefs, and the sound and light show in the evening (350 LE) are highlights of any Aswan trip.

Felucca Ride on the Nile

A felucca is a traditional Egyptian sailboat — and a sunset ride on the Nile in Aswan is one of Egypt's most romantic experiences. The boats glide silently between the islands, past the Aga Khan Mausoleum and the Botanical Gardens on Kitchener's Island. Price: 200–400 LE for 1–2 hours (negotiate!).

Nubian Village

A boat trip or camel ride to one of the Nubian villages on the west side of the Nile is a must. Colorfully painted houses, friendly residents, Nubian tea with hibiscus, and crocodiles as pets (yes, really). An authentic experience away from the temples. Half-day excursion from 30–50 € per person.

High Dam (Sadd al-Ali)

The Aswan High Dam (1960–1970, built with Soviet assistance) is a masterpiece of engineering — 3,830 m long, 111 m high, it dams the Nile to form Lake Nasser. The dam ended the annual Nile floods, enabled year-round irrigation, and generates electricity for all of Egypt. The view of Lake Nasser is impressive.

The Temples of Abu Simbel are Egypt's most spectacular monument next to the pyramids — and perhaps the most impressive example of ancient megalomania. Ramses II. (reigned 1279–1213 BC) had the two rock temples carved into the rock on the west bank of the Nile, 280 km south of Aswan, on the border with Nubia.

The Great Temple

The facade is 33 m high and 38 m wide, flanked by four seated colossal statues of Ramses II., each 20 m high. Inside, halls full of reliefs (battle scenes, the Battle of Kadesh against the Hittites) lead to the sanctuary with four seated statues: Ramses II. alongside the gods Ptah, Amun-Re, and Re-Harachte.

Twice a year — on February 22 and October 22 — the rising sun shines exactly through the entrance and illuminates the three statues in the sanctuary (Ptah remains in the dark — deliberately planned as the god of the underworld). This astronomical phenomenon attracts thousands of visitors.

The UNESCO Rescue Operation

From 1964 to 1968, the temples were cut into 1,042 blocks (weighing up to 30 tons each) and rebuilt 65 m higher and 200 m inland — to save them from the rising waters of Lake Nasser. An unprecedented feat that cost 40 million USD and demonstrated international solidarity.

Between Luxor and Aswan lie two of Egypt's best-preserved temples — popular stops on any Nile cruise.

Temple of Horus at Edfu

The Temple of Edfu is the best-preserved temple in Egypt — an almost perfect example of Ptolemaic temple architecture. Built between 237 and 57 BC and dedicated to the falcon-headed god Horus. The pylon (entrance gate) is 37 m high and covered with reliefs depicting the pharaoh striking his enemies. Inside: Hypostyle halls, offering rooms, and the sanctuary with a replica of the sacred barque. Since the temple was buried under sand, the reliefs and traces of color are remarkably well preserved.

Carriages (Calèche) take you from the Nile to the temple — negotiate the price beforehand (50–80 LE round trip is fair).

Double Temple of Kom Ombo

The Temple of Kom Ombo stands picturesquely on a hill directly on the Nile — especially photogenic at sunset. Unique: It is symmetrically divided — one half dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek, the other to the falcon god Haroeris. In the adjacent Crocodile Museum are mummified crocodiles from antiquity.

Also noteworthy are the medical reliefs on the back wall of the temple: depictions of surgical instruments, proving that the Egyptians performed complex medical procedures 2,000 years ago.

Getting Around in Luxor

East Bank (Hotels, Karnak, Luxor Temple): Much is within walking distance. From the center to the Karnak Temple: 3 km (30 min. on foot or 20–30 LE by taxi).

West Bank (Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut): By ferry across the Nile (5 LE, 5 min.) and then by taxi, bicycle, or organized tour. Bicycle rental on the West Bank: 50–100 LE/day — a great way to travel between the temples and tombs (start early due to the heat!). Half-day private tour West Bank: 40–60 € including driver and guide.

Accommodation

• Budget: Bob Marley Hostel, Nefertiti Hotel — clean, friendly, rooftop terrace with Nile view. From 8–15 €/night.
• Mid-range: Steigenberger Nile Palace, Sonesta St. George — on the Nile, pool, good restaurant. From 50–100 €.
• Luxury: Sofitel Winter Palace — legendary colonial hotel (since 1886), where Howard Carter celebrated the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb. Garden, pool, pure history. From 150 €.

Touts & Hawkers

Luxor has a reputation for having the most aggressive touts in Egypt — carriage drivers, boatmen, self-proclaimed guides. The strategy: Politely but firmly decline. "La, shukran" (No, thank you) is usually enough. Avoid getting drawn into conversations that start with "Where are you from?" — these are almost always sales pitches. It helps to keep your pace and avoid eye contact.

Heat

Luxor is one of the hottest cities in the world. In summer (June–August), temperatures reach 45–50 °C. Even in winter, 28–33 °C during the day is normal. Visit temples and tombs early in the morning (6–10 a.m.), avoid midday heat, drink at least 3 liters of water per day.