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Regionen · Kapitel 4

Pacific Coast

Costa Rica Reiseführer

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RegionenKapitel 4: Pacific Coast
Regionen · Kapitel 4

Pacific Coast

Costa Rica's Pacific side is a universe unto itself: from the tiny Manuel Antonio with its cheeky monkeys to the mystical cloud forest of Monteverde and the wild Osa Peninsula with the most biodiverse place on Earth. In between lie the surfer paradises of the Nicoya Peninsula.

Manuel Antonio & Quepos

★★★ The Star Among National Parks

Manuel Antonio is Costa Rica's most visited national park — and for good reason. On just 16 km² (the smallest national park in the country), it combines white sand beaches, tropical rainforest, and an absurd density of wildlife. Here you can see sloths, capuchin monkeys, squirrel monkeys, iguanas, toucans, and with a bit of luck even coatis — all in a single day.

The beaches within the park are among Costa Rica's most beautiful: Playa Manuel Antonio and Playa Espadilla Sur offer turquoise water, fine white sand, and shade under tropical trees. The capuchin monkeys are infamous: They steal backpacks, unzip zippers, and raid lunch boxes. No joke — leave nothing unattended!

The hiking trails are well-maintained and suitable for all fitness levels. The Sendero Punta Catedral leads to a peninsula with breathtaking views of the coast. A local guide (25–40 USD) is worth it: The animals are excellently camouflaged, and without a trained eye, you miss sloths and snakes.

Quepos, Pacific Coast. 18 USD (foreigners). Tue–Sun 7:00–16:00, closed on Mondays. Max. 1,386 visitors/day — online reservation via SINAC highly recommended, especially in high season! Drive from San José: 3.5h.

Achtung

Manuel Antonio is CLOSED on Mondays! Many travelers unknowingly plan their visit for a Monday — and face closed gates. Also: Be sure to book tickets in advance online via sinac.go.cr. In high season, spots are often sold out days in advance.

The Beaches in Detail

★★★ Playa Manuel Antonio

The main beach in the park and one of Costa Rica's most beautiful: a perfect crescent of white sand, framed by tropical forest. The water is calm and turquoise — ideal for swimming and snorkeling. In the afternoon, it's less crowded than in the morning. The capuchin monkeys patrol the towel rows in search of loot.

★★ Playa Espadilla Sur

Longer, less visited beach south of Playa Manuel Antonio. Slightly stronger waves, but perfect for strolling. At the southern end, there is a natural tide pool where you can swim safely at low tide.

★ Playa Espadilla Norte (outside the park)

The long, public beach in front of the park entrance. Free, with surfable waves (board rental on the beach: 15 USD/2h) and numerous restaurants and bars within walking distance. Swim here and watch the monkeys that sometimes come over from the park.

★★ Playa Biesanz (Insider Tip)

Hidden bay between the park entrance and Hotel Parador. The best snorkeling beach in the region — calm, clear water with fish and small rays. Accessible via a short but steep trail (10 min) from the road. No rental on the beach — bring snorkeling gear!

Quepos — The Gateway to the Park

Quepos is the small, lively port town 7 km before the national park. Those who stay here seek cheaper prices than in the hills between Quepos and the park. The town has a rough charm: a lively fish market at the harbor, affordable sodas, and an authentic Tico atmosphere away from tourism.

Dining & Drinking

El Patio de Café Milagro · Manuel Antonio Road — Specialty coffee from their own roasting, plus excellent breakfast and sandwiches. The patio under trees is a tropical dream. Coffee from 2,500 CRC, breakfast 5,000–8,000 CRC.

Emilio's Café · Manuel Antonio Road — Romantic restaurant with views of the rainforest. The seafood linguine and filet mignon are excellent. 12,000–20,000 CRC. Reservation for the sunset table!

El Avión · Manuel Antonio Road — A restaurant in a converted C-123 Fairchild transport aircraft from the Iran-Contra affair. Yes, really — the plane was part of the covert arms trade of the Reagan era. Today it serves cocktails with ocean views. Main dishes 8,000–15,000 CRC. The story alone is worth the visit.

Soda El Pato · Quepos Center — The best soda in Quepos: Casado from 3,000 CRC, ceviche from 3,500 CRC. No frills, just honest Tico food.

Activities Around Quepos

  • Mangrove Kayak Tour: 2.5h through the mangrove forests near Quepos, with caimans, birds, and monkeys. 45–65 USD incl. guide.
  • Sport Fishing: Quepos is one of the best sport fishing spots in Costa Rica — sailfish, marlin, and mahi-mahi. Half-day charter from 450 USD for 4 people.
  • Catamaran Sunset Tour: 3h sailing along the coast with snorkeling stop, open bar, and the best sunset in the region. 75–85 USD.
  • Night Tour in the Rainforest: Guided tour through private reserve with red-eyed tree frogs, snakes, and nocturnal insects. 45 USD.

Monteverde & Cloud Forest

★★★ The Mystical Cloud Forest

Monteverde is not a place — it is an experience. At 1,400 meters altitude, shrouded in clouds and mist, lies one of the last intact cloud forest areas in the world. The trees are covered in mosses, bromeliads, and orchids, the light is subdued, the air moist and cool. It feels like an enchanted forest from a fairy tale.

There are two adjacent reserves:

  • Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve: The more famous and visited. Well-maintained trails, max. 160 visitors at a time. Here you have the best chances of seeing the quetzal — the legendary bird of the Maya with emerald green plumage and long tail feathers. Entry: 25 USD.
  • Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve: Less visited, wilder, cheaper (18 USD). Higher up, even more shrouded in mist. Ideal for peace and seclusion.

★★★ Hanging Bridges (Puentes Colgantes)

The Selvatura Park Hanging Bridges and the Sky Adventures Park offer hanging bridges in the treetops — up to 170 meters long and 60 meters above the forest floor. From up here, you see the forest from the perspective of the birds: toucans, hummingbirds, and with luck, the quetzal at eye level. Costs: 30–55 USD depending on the provider.

★★ Night Tour

The cloud forest comes alive after dark: red-eyed tree frogs with their iconic red eyes, nocturnal snakes, tarantulas, and kinkajous. A guided night tour (25–35 USD, 2h) is one of Costa Rica's most intense nature experiences.

Tipp

Arrive early morning (6:30–7:00) at the Monteverde Reserve — then there are the fewest visitors and the chances of seeing the quetzal are highest. The birds are most active early in the morning. A guide is almost a must: Without trained eyes, you miss 90% of the animals.

All Activities in Monteverde

★★★ Canopy Tour / Ziplining

Costa Rica invented the canopy adventure — and Monteverde is the best place for it. The Sky Adventures Sky Trek offers the longest and highest zipline: 750 meters long and 140 meters above the forest floor. You fly at up to 60 km/h over the treetops of the cloud forest — the adrenaline is real, the view surreal.

Providers Compared:

ProviderHighlightsPrice
Sky Adventures Sky TrekLongest/highest ziplines, gondola, hanging bridges94 USD (combo)
Selvatura ParkLongest zipline course (18 platforms, 15 cables), hanging bridges, butterfly garden50 USD (zip only), 80 USD (combo)
100% AventuraThe "Superman Zipline" (1.6 km long!) and Tarzan Swing55 USD

★★ Hummingbird Garden (Hummingbird Gallery)

Right at the entrance of the Monteverde Reserve, there is a small gallery with a hummingbird garden where dozens of hummingbirds buzz around feeding stations. Over 14 species have been counted here. A perfect place for photography — the birds come within a few centimeters. Free access.

★★ Butterfly Garden (Selvatura)

In Selvatura Park, there is an enclosed butterfly garden with over 30 species of tropical butterflies — including the spectacular morpho butterfly with its bright blue wings. Most active in sunshine between 10 and 14 o'clock. 18 USD, cheaper with a combo ticket with zipline.

★★ Frog Exhibit (Ranario)

Over 30 frog species live in Monteverde — including the iconic red-eyed tree frog, poisonous dart frogs, and the tiny, transparent glass frog, through whose skin you can see the internal organs. The Ranario de Monteverde showcases the animals in naturally designed terrariums. 15 USD, especially recommended in the evening (many frogs are nocturnal).

★ Orchid Garden

Over 500 orchid species grow in the Monteverde region — many of them tiny (the smallest orchid in the world was discovered here!). The Orchid Garden Monteverde displays over 450 species. Magnifying glasses are provided, as many blooms are smaller than a grain of rice. 12 USD.

Dining & Accommodation in Monteverde

Dining

Taco Taco · Monteverde Center — Fantastic Mexican tacos and burritos at fair prices. The "Fish Tacos" with fresh fish are a revelation. 4,000–7,000 CRC.

Morpho's Restaurant · Santa Elena — Tico cuisine with creative variations. The casado here comes with organic vegetables from their own garden. The "Rondon" (Caribbean fish stew — unusual for the mountain region, but fantastic) is a specialty. 5,000–10,000 CRC.

Trio Monteverde · Santa Elena — The most upscale restaurant in the region. Fusion cuisine with local ingredients: trout fillet in macadamia crust, plantain risotto, chocolate lava cake. Reservation recommended! 10,000–18,000 CRC.

Sabor Tico · Santa Elena — Affordable soda with excellent breakfast: gallo pinto with all the trimmings for 3,000 CRC. The owner, Doña María, has been cooking here for over 20 years.

Accommodation

Sleepers Hostel · Santa Elena — Clean, friendly hostel with kitchen and hot water (important in the cool Monteverde nights!). Dorm from 14 USD, private rooms from 40 USD.

Hotel Belmar · Monteverde — One of the best hotels in the region: alpine architecture in a tropical setting, with views over the Gulf of Nicoya. Own brewery (!), spa, and an excellent restaurant. Double room from 180 USD.

Monteverde Lodge & Gardens · Monteverde — Classic eco-lodge with tropical gardens, guided hikes, and a jacuzzi under the stars. Double room from 130 USD incl. breakfast.

Tipp

Monteverde is at 1,400 meters — the nights are COOL (14–18°C). Pack a warm jacket and long pants. After the heat shock of the coasts, the fresh mountain air is a welcome relief.

Nicoya Peninsula

★★★ Santa Teresa & Mal País

At the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula lies Santa Teresa — Costa Rica's answer to Bali. A sleepy surfer and yoga paradise that has developed into an international hotspot in recent years. The endless beach offers consistent waves for beginners and pros, the sunsets are legendary, and the atmosphere swings between hippie-chic and boutique lifestyle.

Main Street is a dusty dirt road (yes, a 4×4 is mandatory here), lined with surf shops, yoga studios, vegan restaurants, and cocktail bars. Mal País to the south is quieter and wilder.

Getting there: Ferry Puntarenas → Paquera (1.5h), then 2h drive. Or Sansa flight to Tambor (30 min), then 1h drive.

★★ Nosara

Nosara is Santa Teresa's quieter sister: less party, more wellness. Playa Guiones offers perfect surf conditions, the hinterland is full of yoga retreats, and the community strongly focuses on sustainability. Ideal for couples and families seeking beach and nature without a party scene. The Ostional Wildlife Refuge next door is one of the most important nesting sites for Olive-Ridley turtles worldwide.

★★ Sámara

The most family-friendly beach on the Nicoya Peninsula: The sheltered bay offers calm, shallow water, the town is manageable and safe. Kayak tours to Isla Chora, snorkeling, and horseback riding are the main activities. Less hip than Santa Teresa, but authentic and relaxed.

Nicoya Peninsula, Province of Guanacaste. Sámara is also accessible by bus from Nicoya (1.5h, 2,000 CRC).

Santa Teresa in Detail

Surf Conditions

Santa Teresa offers consistent waves year-round — a point that hardly any other spot in Costa Rica can offer. The breaks are diverse:

  • Playa Santa Teresa (Main Beach): Beach break, ideal for beginners and intermediates. Consistent waves of 1–2 meters, rarely over 2.5 meters.
  • La Lora: Faster, more powerful waves at the northern end. For experienced surfers.
  • Playa Hermosa: Quieter beach north of Santa Teresa, ideal for families and beginners.
  • Mal País: Rocky reefs with fast waves and fewer surfers. Only for experts.

Surf Schools: Prices for 2h private lessons: 50–70 USD incl. board. Recommendation: Nalu Surf School or Del Soul Surf School — both have patient instructors and good equipment.

Yoga & Wellness

Santa Teresa is Costa Rica's yoga capital. Dozens of studios offer drop-in classes (10–20 USD). The most well-known:

  • Pranamar Villas & Yoga Retreat: Right on the beach, daily classes with ocean views. Yoga + accommodation from 150 USD/night.
  • Anamaya Resort: On a cliff above the sea, spectacular yoga pavilion. Multi-day retreats from 1,200 USD/week.
  • Horizon Yoga Center: Drop-in classes from 12 USD. Vinyasa, Yin, Ashtanga.

Dining in Santa Teresa

Banana Beach · Playa Santa Teresa — Right on the beach, feet in the sand, cocktails and fresh fish. The wood-fire pizza is surprisingly good. Sunset spot #1. 7,000–15,000 CRC.

Burger Rancho · Main Street — The best burgers in Costa Rica? Possible. Angus beef patties, handmade buns, creative toppings. 5,000–8,000 CRC.

The Bakery · Main Street — Fresh croissants, sourdough bread, and the best coffee in town. Always busy in the morning, but worth the wait. 2,000–5,000 CRC.

Koji's · Main Street — Japanese restaurant with fresh sashimi and rolls. Surprisingly authentic for a place at the end of the world. 8,000–15,000 CRC.

Tipp

Santa Teresa's main street is a dirt road with potholes — after dark, cars and ATVs drive without lights. Walk on the roadside in the evening and wear bright clothing or a headlamp. Several accidents with pedestrians happen every year.

Nosara & Ostional

★★ Playa Guiones

The main beach of Nosara offers 7 km of uninterrupted sand with consistent beach-break waves. The waves here are gentler than in Santa Teresa and perfect for surf beginners. At the southern end, there are reef breaks for advanced surfers. No umbrella rental, no deck chairs — just nature.

★★ Ostional Wildlife Refuge

One of the world's most important nesting sites for Olive-Ridley turtles. During the "arribadas" (mass arrival), hundreds of thousands of turtles come to the beach in just a few nights to lay their eggs. The spectacle is one of the most impressive natural phenomena in the world.

Best time: The arribadas usually occur around the new moon, most frequently from August to December. Guided tours: 30–40 USD, always with a guide from the local community.

Ostional, 8 km north of Nosara. The community has the right to harvest a small portion of the eggs — it sounds paradoxical, but it protects the rest because the locals thus have an economic interest in protecting the turtles.

Blue Zone — Nicoya as Longevity Hotspot

The Nicoya Peninsula is one of the five "Blue Zones" in the world — places where people statistically live longer than average. In the villages of the peninsula, there are noticeably many people over 100 years old. The reasons: black beans and rice as staple food, an active life (many farmers work into old age), strong family ties, and the "Plan de Vida" — a sense of purpose that gets people out of bed every morning.

Uvita & Marino Ballena

★★ Parque Nacional Marino Ballena

South of Manuel Antonio lies Uvita — a quiet, up-and-coming coastal town known primarily for one thing: the Whale Tail. At low tide, a natural sandbar forms in the perfect shape of a whale's tail — visible from the air and walkable at low tide. It is one of Costa Rica's most photogenic natural phenomena.

★★★ Whale Watching

From July to November and December to March, humpback whales pass by the coast. Costa Rica is one of the few places in the world where you can see humpback whales from both hemispheres — the North Pacific population comes in winter, the South Pacific population in summer. Whale-watching tours from Uvita: 70–90 USD (3–4 hours, with snorkeling stop).

Beaches

  • Playa Uvita: The Whale-Tail Beach. At low tide, you can walk 500 meters out on the sandbar. In the national park (6 USD entry).
  • Playa Arco: Small, quiet beach south of Uvita, accessible only via a short trail. Hardly any visitors.
  • Playa Ventanas: Beach with natural caves in the rock (walkable at low tide). Spectacular play of light when the sun shines through the "windows."

Dining & Accommodation

Restaurante Sabor Español · Uvita — Spanish cuisine with a Costa Rican flair. Paella, tapas, and excellent sangría. 8,000–14,000 CRC.

Rancho La Merced Wildlife Refuge · Uvita — Mangrove boat tour with crocodiles, birds, and monkeys on a former cattle farm. 35 USD.

Cascada Verde Hostel · Uvita — Secluded jungle hostel with its own waterfall (yes, in the hostel!). Dorm from 15 USD. The atmosphere is magical — yoga, campfires, stars.

Tipp

The whale-watching season in Uvita is one of the longest in the world — over 8 months a year in total! The best months for guaranteed sightings: August–September (South Pacific whales) and January–February (North Pacific whales).

Osa Peninsula & Corcovado

★★★ Corcovado National Park — The Most Biodiverse Place on Earth

National Geographic called Corcovado the "most biologically intense place on Earth" — and that's no exaggeration. On the remote Osa Peninsula in southwestern Costa Rica lies a piece of untouched rainforest that hosts more species per square kilometer than any other place on the planet.

Here live all four monkey species of Costa Rica (howler monkeys, capuchin monkeys, squirrel monkeys, spider monkeys), tapirs (Costa Rica's largest land mammal), jaguars, pumas, scarlet macaws, crocodiles, and all venomous snake species of the country. Corcovado is not a tourist attraction — it is real wilderness.

The park can only be visited with a certified guide (mandatory since 2014). The most popular route is the day hike from Estación San Pedrillo or Estación Sirena. Multi-day tours with overnight stays at the Sirena ranger station are the ultimate adventure — but must be booked months in advance.

Osa Peninsula. Entry: 15 USD + guide (from 80 USD/person for day tour). Arrival: Flight to Drake Bay or Puerto Jiménez, then boat. Or by 4×4 to Puerto Jiménez (6h from San José) and boat to the ranger station.

★★ Drake Bay

The gateway to Corcovado and a magical place in itself. The small settlement is only accessible by boat or plane and offers spectacular snorkeling and diving at Isla del Caño — one of Costa Rica's best diving spots with manta rays, sharks, and sea turtles. From July to October, you can see humpback whales with their calves here.

Achtung

Corcovado is NOT a walk in the park! The hikes are demanding, hot, and humid. Poisonous snakes are real. NEVER go without a guide. Book tours at least 2–4 weeks in advance, months ahead in high season. And bring enough water — at least 3 liters per person.

Drake Bay — The Gateway to the Wilderness

Drake Bay (Bahía Drake) is one of the most remote and magical places in Costa Rica. The small village on the northwest edge of the Osa Peninsula is only accessible by boat (from Sierpe, 1.5h) or by Sansa flight. There are no proper roads, no ATM (bring cash!), and the power occasionally goes out. That's precisely the charm.

★★★ Isla del Caño — Snorkeling & Diving

The small island 20 km off the coast offers the best underwater world in Costa Rica: crystal-clear water with 20+ meters visibility, whitetip reef sharks, manta rays, sea turtles, moray eels, and schools of tropical fish. From July to October, you regularly see humpback whales and dolphins here.

Snorkeling tour: 85–100 USD (full day, incl. boat transfer, 2 snorkeling spots, lunch on the beach).
Diving: 110–150 USD (2 dives). PADI Open Water certification possible (4 days, 450 USD).

★★ Night Tour on the Beach

Drake Bay offers spectacular bioluminescence — under certain conditions, the sea glows in ghostly blue-green when touched. The cause: dinoflagellates, single-celled organisms that produce light when moved. Particularly strong at new moon and in warm months.

Accommodation in Drake Bay

Pirate Cove — Comfortable lodges with sea views, private beach, and excellent restaurant. Packages from 180 USD/night incl. meals and tour.

Drake Bay Backpackers — One of the few budget options: Dorms from 18 USD, private rooms from 50 USD. Simple, but the location by the water and the community make it special.

Copa del Árbol — Luxurious treehouse lodge in the rainforest, built without cutting a single tree. Sustainable tourism at its best. From 300 USD/night all-inclusive.

Puerto Jiménez — Cowboy Town by the Rainforest

Puerto Jiménez is the only "town" on the Osa Peninsula (3,500 inhabitants) and the main starting point for Corcovado tours from the La Leona or Sirena ranger station. The town has the charm of a former gold mining settlement — which it actually was: Until the 1980s, gold was mined here before nature conservation took precedence.

Today, Puerto Jiménez is a charming village with jungle access: Scarlet macaws fly over the main street, capuchin monkeys raid fruit trees in the gardens, and occasionally a tapir wanders through the town.

Dining

Restaurante Monka · Main Street — The best restaurant in town: fresh fish, creative salads, and an ambiance that hovers between backpacker hangout and upscale dining. Catch of the Day from 8,000 CRC.

Soda Doña Berta · Main Street — Most authentic soda on the Osa: Casado for 3,500 CRC, huge portions. The owner knows everyone in town.

Pizza Mail.it · Near the airstrip — Wood-fire pizza run by an Italian expat. The "Osa Special" with local ingredients is a hit. 6,000–9,000 CRC.

Corcovado Tours from Puerto Jiménez

TourDurationPrice/PersonHighlights
Day Tour Sirena12–14h90–120 USDBoat + 10 km hike, best wildlife chances
Day Tour La Leona10h80–100 USDBeach hike, monkeys, macaws, possibly tapirs
2-Day Sirena Overnight2 days200–280 USDNight tapirs and cats, lagoon, waterfall
3-Day Traverse3 days350–450 USDLa Leona → Sirena → San Pedrillo, the ultimate adventure

Achtung

For overnight tours in Corcovado (Station Sirena), there are only 30 beds — in high season, they are booked out MONTHS in advance. Book through your tour operator in Puerto Jiménez as early as possible. Independent booking via SINAC is theoretically possible but complicated.

Jacó & Herradura

★ Jacó

Jacó is the closest beach town from San José (1.5h drive) and accordingly popular with weekenders and party tourists. The town has a strange dual personality: daytime surf lessons and family beaches, nighttime a lively (sometimes seedy) bar and club scene. The beach itself is long and gray — not Costa Rica's prettiest, but the waves are consistently good for beginners.

For surfers, Jacó is a solid starting point: The Playa Hermosa south of town offers world-class waves for advanced surfers (regularly hosts international surf competitions). And the nearby Carara National Park is one of the best places to see Scarlet Macaws in the wild.

★ Bahía Herradura

The sheltered bay north of Jacó is home to the luxurious Los Sueños Marriott Resort and a marina. Ideal for sport fishing (marlin, sailfish, tuna) and quieter beach days. The bay is wave-free and family-friendly.

★★ Carara National Park

Located at the border between tropical dry and rainforest, Carara is a transition forest with exceptional biodiversity. The main reason for a visit: The Scarlet Macaws that live here in large numbers. In the mornings and evenings, they fly between their nesting sites in the park and the feeding trees in the surrounding area — a spectacular display in bright red, yellow, and blue. Crocodiles in the Río Tárcoles along the way are a bonus.

Carara NP: 10 USD entry. 20 km north of Jacó. Daily 8:00–16:00. The bridge over the Río Tárcoles (10 min north) offers crocodile sightings — just stop on the bridge and look down. Up to 20 crocodiles can be seen from here!

Dining in Jacó

Graffiti Restro Café · Calle Bohío — The culinary highlight of Jacó: creative fusion cuisine, changing menu with fresh local ingredients. Tuna tataki, coconut curry, handmade pasta. 10,000–18,000 CRC. Reservation recommended.

Taco Bar · Main Street — Chain restaurant (there are several in Costa Rica), but the fish tacos are honestly good and affordable. 3,000–6,000 CRC.

Soda Garabito · Calle Ancha — Authentic soda with huge casados from 3,000 CRC and an arroz con pollo for which some Ticos travel extra.

Guanacaste & North Pacific

★★ Playa Tamarindo

Tamarindo was once a sleepy fishing village — today it is Costa Rica's most touristy beach town. The main street is lined with restaurants, surf shops, boutiques, and bars. Some love the energy, others find it too developed. What is undisputed: The surf conditions are consistently good (beach break, ideal for beginners), the sunsets spectacular, and the infrastructure perfect.

From Tamarindo, tours to Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas start — one of the most important nesting sites for the leatherback turtle worldwide (season: October–March). Guided night tour: 35 USD.

★★ Playa Conchal

One of the most unusual beaches in Costa Rica: Instead of sand, the beach consists of millions of tiny, crushed shell fragments that shimmer white to pink in the sun. The water is turquoise and calm — perfect for snorkeling. Accessible on foot from Brasilito (20 min) or by boat.

★★ Playa Flamingo

The most exclusive beach in Guanacaste: white sand (the only truly white sand beach on the Pacific), calm water, a marina, and upscale hotels. Fewer backpackers, more families and couples. Ideal as a quiet base for excursions in the region.

★ Playa Grande

Directly north of Tamarindo — but a world apart. Playa Grande is part of the Las Baulas National Park and therefore remains largely undeveloped. Strong waves for experienced surfers, miles of empty beach, and at night the leatherback turtles come ashore. A contrast program to bustling Tamarindo.

Papagayo Peninsula — Pure Luxury

The Papagayo Peninsula in the far northwest is Costa Rica's #1 luxury destination: Here stand the Four Seasons, the Andaz, and Planet Hollywood. Exclusive beaches, golf courses, and spa resorts in a dry, sunny landscape. The beaches (Playa Nacascolo, Playa Panama) are, however, also publicly accessible — Costa Rica guarantees free access to all beaches.

Dining in Guanacaste

Mar y Sol · Tamarindo — Right on the beach, feet in the sand. Ceviche, fresh fish, cocktails. The "Ceviche Mixto" with shrimp, octopus, and fish is sensational. 7,000–14,000 CRC.

El Huerto · Tamarindo — Vegetarian/vegan with a view of the sunset. The "Buddha Bowl" and the smoothies are excellent. 5,000–10,000 CRC.

Dragonfly Bar & Grill · Tamarindo — Upscale fusion cuisine in a tropical setting. The "Coconut Shrimp" and "Mahi-Mahi in Passion Fruit Sauce" are legendary. 12,000–20,000 CRC. Reservation required!

Tipp

Guanacaste is the driest and hottest province in Costa Rica — 35°C and above are normal from December to April. Pack sunscreen with high SPF, a hat, and enough water. At the end of the dry season (March–April), the landscape is brown and barren — quite different from the green image one has of Costa Rica.

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