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Regionen · Kapitel 6

Monaco & the Corniche Coastal Roads

Côte d'Azur Reiseführer

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RegionenKapitel 6: Monaco & the Corniche Coastal Roads
Regionen · Kapitel 6

Monaco & the Corniche Coastal Roads

The Principality of Monaco is a city-state of superlatives on just two square kilometers: Casino Monte-Carlo, Grand Prix, Prince's Palace, and a density of luxury that is unique worldwide. And the three Corniche coastal roads connecting Nice with Monaco are among the most spectacular roads in the world.

Monaco — The City-State of Superlatives

Monaco is absurd, fascinating, and unique. The second smallest country in the world (after the Vatican) has only 38,000 inhabitants on 2.02 square kilometers — but the highest millionaire density in the world, no income tax, a Grand Prix right through the streets, and a casino that should belong to the UNESCO World Heritage of architecture.

Monte-Carlo & the Casino

The Casino de Monte-Carlo, designed by Charles Garnier (the architect of the Paris Opera), opened in 1863, is the most famous gambling casino in the world. The facade is a masterpiece of the Belle Époque: marble, stucco, gilded ornaments. The lobby (atrium) is freely accessible — and the chandeliers, frescoes, and marble columns alone are worth the visit. For the gaming rooms, there is a 17€ entrance fee (from 18 years, bring ID, dress code: no shorts, no flip-flops). James Bond played here — will you?

In front of the casino lies the Place du Casino — one of the most famous squares in the world. Here, Ferraris, Bentleys, and Bugattis are parked in a row (deliberately — Monaco is a showcase). The Hôtel de Paris next door houses Alain Ducasse's three-star restaurant Le Louis XV.

The Prince's Palace (Palais Princier)

On the rock Le Rocher stands the Palais Princier — residence of the Grimaldis since 1297. The changing of the guard (Relève de la Garde) takes place daily at 11:55 AM and is free. In summer, the state rooms are accessible (10€). The old town on the rock (Monaco-Ville) is a labyrinth of narrow alleys with souvenir shops and restaurants — touristy but charming.

Oceanographic Museum

The Musée Océanographique, founded in 1910 by Prince Albert I and spectacularly located on the edge of the rock above the sea, is one of the best marine museums in the world. 6,000 species in 100 aquariums, including a shark tank, a coral world, and a lagoon with sea turtles. Jacques Cousteau directed the museum for 31 years. Admission: 18€.

The Grand Prix Circuit

The Grand Prix de Monaco (May/June) is the most legendary race in Formula 1 — and unique because it takes place on normal city streets. The famous hairpin turn at the Fairmont, the tunnel, the chicane at the swimming pool section — you can walk the entire track (about 3.3 km). On race day, grandstand tickets start at 120€, but from the rock, you can see parts of the track for free.

Tipp

Monaco is surprisingly affordable if you know how: Most attractions on the Rocher cost little or nothing. Food is expensive in Monte-Carlo, but at the Condamine Market (Marché de la Condamine) there is Socca, pizza, and pasta at normal prices. The public elevator from the harbor to the Rocher is free.

The Three Corniche Coastal Roads

Between Nice and Monaco/Menton, three superimposed coastal roads run — the famous Corniches. They are among the most spectacular roads in the world and each offers a completely different perspective on the Côte d'Azur:

Basse Corniche (Coastal Road, M6098)

The lower Corniche runs directly by the sea, through Villefranche-sur-Mer (one of the most picturesque harbors on the Côte d'Azur), Beaulieu-sur-Mer (with Villa Kérylos, a reconstruction of a Greek villa), and Cap-d'Ail. Slow, winding, close to the water. Perfect for photographing and stopping.

Moyenne Corniche (Middle Coastal Road, M6007)

The middle Corniche passes through the spectacular Èze — a medieval eagle's nest village 429 meters above the sea. Èze is one of the most visited places on the Côte d'Azur, and rightly so: winding stone alleys, an exotic garden with cacti and succulents on the castle ruins, and a panoramic view that can reach as far as Corsica. In the village, there is also a factory of Fragonard (free tour and perfume shopping). The Moyenne Corniche offers the best balance of view and accessibility.

Grande Corniche (Upper Coastal Road, D2564)

The upper Corniche, built by Napoleon on the route of the ancient Via Julia Augusta, reaches up to 512 meters above the sea. The views are breathtaking and dizzying at the same time. Most spectacular: the viewpoint Col d'Èze and the ruins of the Trophée des Alpes (Tropaeum Alpium) in La Turbie — a 35-meter-high Roman victory monument from 6 BC, erected in honor of Emperor Augustus' victory over the Alpine peoples. Alfred Hitchcock filmed scenes from "To Catch a Thief" (1955) here with Cary Grant and Grace Kelly.

Achtung

The Corniche roads are winding and sometimes narrow. Drive carefully and only stop at designated parking bays. In summer, the roads are busy — best enjoyed early in the morning or at dusk. A drive over all three Corniches takes a whole day if you want to stop and enjoy.

Èze & Menton — Eagle's Nest and Lemon City

Èze — The Eagle's Nest

Èze is the most iconic mountain village of the Côte d'Azur: a medieval stone nest, 429 meters above the sea, so narrow and steep that no car can enter. The alleys are a labyrinth of artist studios, small hotels, and boutiques. The Jardin Exotique on the castle ruins is a masterpiece of garden art: cacti, agaves, and succulents against the panorama of the entire Côte d'Azur. Admission: 7€ — one of the best investments of the entire trip.

Friedrich Nietzsche often hiked the steep path from Èze-sur-Mer (by the sea) up to the village — the Sentier Nietzsche is now a challenging hiking trail (1.5 hours, 400 meters elevation). It is said that here he found the inspiration for "Thus Spoke Zarathustra".

Menton — The Lemon City at the Italian Border

Menton is the last city before Italy and has the warmest climate in France — lemons, oranges, and tropical plants grow here that otherwise only thrive in Sicily. The city is less glamorous than Nice or Cannes, but more authentic and quieter.

  • Old Town (Vieille Ville): Pastel-colored Baroque facades, steep stairs, the Basilica of Saint-Michel. The most beautiful Baroque city on the Côte d'Azur.
  • Jardins Biovès: Magnificent gardens with orange trees, sculptures, and the scent of lemons that defines Menton.
  • Fête du Citron (Lemon Festival): In February, the gardens transform into a spectacle: giant sculptures made of lemons and oranges, parades, and fireworks. One of the most unusual festivals in Europe.
  • Musée Jean Cocteau: The museum of filmmaker and poet Jean Cocteau, who loved Menton and decorated the wedding hall in the town hall with frescoes. Architect: Rudy Ricciotti (who also built the MuCEM in Marseille). Admission: 10€.
  • Serre de la Madone: A botanical garden from the 1920s, created by Lawrence Johnston. Exotic plants from around the world in an enchanted atmosphere. Admission: 8€.

Tipp

From Menton, it's only 5 minutes to the Italian border. A day trip to Ventimiglia (Friday market!) or Bordighera is worthwhile — Italian prices, Italian cuisine, and the same coastal landscape. You hardly notice the border crossing.

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