Saint-Tropez & Hinterland

It all began in 1956 when Roger Vadim shot "And God Created Woman" here with Brigitte Bardot. Overnight, the sleepy fishing village became the epitome of the jet set. Today, mega yachts lie in the harbor, Lamborghinis park on the quay, and the beach clubs at Plage de Pampelonne charge €60 for a sunbed. And yet: If you walk through the old town at 7 a.m., when fishermen mend their nets and bakers pull croissants from the oven, you understand why Bardot, Picasso, and the Impressionists fell in love with this place.

The Harbor — Stage of Vanities

The Vieux Port is Saint-Tropez's most famous backdrop: colorful houses in Provençal style, fishing boats next to 50-meter yachts, cafés with terraces for seeing and being seen. The Café Sénéquier (since 1887, recognizable by the red chairs) is the institution at the harbor — an espresso costs €4, but the view of the yachts and the hustle and bustle is priceless. In the morning, the harbor is most authentic when the fish market (Place aux Herbes) offers fresh catch.

The Old Town

The old town behind the harbor is a maze of alleys with ocher and pastel facades, bougainvillea, small squares, and boutiques. The Place des Lices is the heart: a shady square under plane trees where locals play pétanque (yes, really — even between the Ferraris). On Tuesdays and Saturdays, one of the most beautiful weekly markets in Provence takes place here: lavender honey, olive oil, tapenade, socca, Provençal fabrics.

Musée de l'Annonciade

In the former chapel at the harbor, the Musée de l'Annonciade showcases a surprisingly high-caliber collection of Post-Impressionists and Fauvists who discovered Saint-Tropez as a painting location: Signac, Matisse, Bonnard, Vuillard, Derain. The light these painters sought falls through the high windows onto the paintings — you see the same coast in the picture and in the window. Admission: €8.

Plage de Pampelonne

The legendary Plage de Pampelonne stretches over five kilometers south of Saint-Tropez: fine white sand, turquoise water, and the world's most famous beach clubs. Club 55 (since 1955, when the Bardot crew ordered lunch here), Nikki Beach (champagne and DJs), and Tahiti (the oldest beach club) cost €40–80 for a sunbed, but there are also public sections that are free and just as beautiful.

Grasse is located 17 kilometers north of Cannes in the hinterland and is the undisputed world capital of perfume. Since the 16th century, the finest fragrances in the world have been created here — a know-how recognized by UNESCO in 2018 as an intangible cultural heritage. Patrick Süskind's novel "Perfume" is set here (although the film was shot in Barcelona).

The Three Major Perfume Houses

• Fragonard — The most famous house with three factories in Grasse and one in Èze. Free tour of the historic factory (30 minutes), boutique with affordable perfumes (from €20 for 100ml — a fraction of Parisian prices). The scent upon entering the factory is unforgettable.
• Molinard — Since 1849. Offers an excellent perfume workshop (from €55, 1.5 hours): You learn the basics of perfume composition and create your own fragrance from over 90 essences. One of the best experiences on the Côte d'Azur.
• Galimard — The oldest house (founded in 1747). Also offers workshops ("Studio des Fragrances", from €55) and a charming historic factory with copper stills and flower presses.

The Old Town of Grasse

The old town is a steep labyrinth of medieval alleys, squares, and fountains. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Puy houses three paintings by Rubens (yes, really — in a small town in the hinterland). The Jardin de la Princesse Pauline offers a panoramic view over the sea. The Musée International de la Parfumerie (€8) tells the 5,000-year history of perfume from Egypt to today.

The hinterland of the Côte d'Azur is the region's best-kept secret: medieval mountain villages (villages perchés), lavender fields, olive groves, gorges, and a silence that starkly contrasts with the coastal hustle and bustle. Many visitors overlook the hinterland — a mistake, for here lies the soul of Provence.

Villages Perchés — The Eagle's Nest Villages

• Mougins — The gourmet village: Picasso spent his last twelve years here. Today, Mougins is full of restaurants and galleries. The Musée de la Photographie (free) displays portraits of Picasso. The village once had more Michelin stars than inhabitants.
• Saint-Paul-de-Vence — France's most famous artist village: Chagall, Matisse, Prévert, and Yves Montand lived here. The Fondation Maeght (one of Europe's most important private museums for modern art) is located just outside the village: Giacometti sculptures in the garden, Miró mosaic in the labyrinth, Chagall paintings inside. Admission: €16. In the village itself: the legendary Auberge de la Colombe d'Or, where artists once paid with paintings — the walls are full of originals by Picasso, Braque, and Léger.
• Gourdon — The quintessential "eagle's nest village": perched on a 760-meter-high rock ledge, with a panoramic view that stretches to the sea. Tiny, steep, and photogenic.
• Tourrettes-sur-Loup — The violet village: violets for Grasse are grown here. In March, the Fête des Violettes takes place. Charming, less crowded than Saint-Paul.

Gorges du Verdon — Europe's Grand Canyon

The Gorges du Verdon are about 90 minutes from the coast and are one of Europe's most spectacular gorges: 25 kilometers long, up to 700 meters deep, with turquoise water that glows in the sun like molten emerald. The Lac de Sainte-Croix at the gorge's exit is a dream: kayaking, pedal boating, swimming in turquoise water against a dramatic rock backdrop.

• Route des Crêtes — The panoramic road on the north bank of the gorge with viewpoints that are dizzying (literally: you look 700 meters straight down).
• Sentier Martel — The gorge's most famous hiking trail (14 km, 6–7 hours, challenging). Through tunnels, over ladders, along rock walls — an adventure.
• Moustiers-Sainte-Marie — One of the "Plus beaux villages de France" (most beautiful villages in France) at the entrance of the gorge: stone houses, a star on a chain between two rocks, and excellent faience ceramics.