Dodecanese
The Islands of the Sun
Dodecanese — the name means "twelve islands," although the archipelago actually consists of 15 inhabited and over 150 other islands and islets. Located in the far southeast of Greece, some islands are only a few kilometers from the Turkish coast. From Athens, the Dodecanese almost feels like another country — and it was for a long time: Until 1947, they belonged to Italy, before that to the Ottoman Empire, and in the Middle Ages, the Knights of St. John ruled here. This layering of cultures makes the Dodecanese unique in Greece.
The sun record is impressive: Rhodes has over 300 sunny days a year, making it one of the sunniest places in Europe. The climate is drier and warmer than on the Cyclades, the wind less brutal. The bathing season lasts from May to October, with the sea still at 25°C in September.
The big stars are Rhodes (with its UNESCO-protected Crusader old town and endless beaches), Kos (the birthplace of medicine, flat as a pancake and perfect for cycling), and Patmos (the holy island where John wrote the Revelation). But the true discoveries lie beyond the main islands: the photogenic Symi with its picture-book harbor, the volcanic Nisyros with its smoking crater, the quiet Tilos, and the remote Karpathos with its vibrant traditions.
Getting there: Rhodes and Kos have international airports with direct flights from Germany (summer). Alternatively, domestic flights from Athens (45 min.) or ferry from Piraeus (12–18 hours overnight). Ferries and speedboats regularly operate between the islands — Dodecanese Seaways and Blue Star Ferries are the main providers.
Plan at least 10–14 days if you want to see more than one island. For Rhodes alone, 5–7 days are enough, Kos 3–4 days, Patmos 2–3 days. The ferry connections are good, but not always daily — flexibility helps.
Tipp
The Dodecanese are ideal for island hopping! A tried-and-true itinerary: Rhodes (4 nights) → Symi (2 nights) → Kos (3 nights) → Day trip to Nisyros → Patmos (2 nights). Best to book ferries via ferries.gr or directferries.de, reserve 2–3 weeks in advance during peak season.
Rhodes
The fourth-largest Greek island (1,401 km²) and the undisputed center of the Dodecanese. Rhodes has it all: one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the world, ancient ruins, stunning bays, a lively nightlife, and an astonishingly diverse landscape — from pine forests in the interior to citrus plantations in the east to wind-swept cliffs on the west coast.
In antiquity, the island was one of the most important trading powers of the eastern Mediterranean. The Colossus of Rhodes — one of the seven wonders of the world — supposedly stood at the entrance to the Mandraki Harbor (although no one knows exactly what it looked like or where it stood). In the Middle Ages, the Knights of St. John (1309–1522) made Rhodes the main fortress of Christendom against the Ottoman Empire and built the massive fortress town that is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Rhodes Town is divided into two worlds: The Old Town within the walls — a labyrinth of medieval alleys, Ottoman mosques, and hidden squares — and the modern New Town with hotels, shopping, and the lively nightlife around Bar Street. Outside the town, the white village of Lindos with its Acropolis, miles of sandy beaches on the east coast, and the little-visited, mountainous hinterland beckon.
Plan at least 5 full days for Rhodes: 2 for the Old Town, 1 for Lindos, 1 for beaches, and 1 for the hinterland or a day trip to Symi.
Tipp
The Old Town of Rhodes is HUGE — plan at least a full day just to get lost in the alleys. Most tourists concentrate on the Street of the Knights and the Grand Master's Palace. Turn into the side streets, especially towards the Jewish Quarter in the southeast — there you'll find the most authentic taverns and beautiful hidden spots.
Rhodes Town Old Town (UNESCO)★★★
The Old Town of Rhodes is the largest still-inhabited medieval town in Europe — and one of the best-preserved in the world. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988, around 6,000 people still live and work within the massive fortress walls built by the Knights Hospitaller in the 14th and 15th centuries.
The walls are 4 km long, up to 12 m thick, and over 10 m high in places — a masterpiece of military architecture that withstood two massive Ottoman sieges (1480 and 1522). Eleven gates lead into the city, which is divided into two main areas: the Collachium (the knights' quarter in the north with Knights Street, Grand Master's Palace, and Hospital) and the Chora (the civilian quarter in the south, with Ottoman mosques, the Jewish quarter, and the liveliest squares).
The best thing about the Old Town? The atmosphere. In the cobblestone alleys, medieval stone houses mix with Turkish wooden balconies, Byzantine churches stand next to mosques, and in the small squares, locals and cats alike bask in the sun. In the evenings, when the cruise tourists are gone, the alleys transform into a magical stage — warm lantern light, the clinking of glasses from hidden courtyards, the scent of jasmine.
The Knights Street (Odos Ippoton) is the main axis of the Collachium — a straight, 200 m long cobblestone street lined with the "Inns" (residences) of the different nationalities of the knights: France, Spain, Provence, Auvergne, England, Germany, Italy. The facades are austere, almost unadorned — this was about defense, not decoration. At the upper end, the Grand Master's Palace looms.
The Old Town is freely accessible, 24/7. Best in the morning (8–10 am, before the cruise groups arrive) or in the evening (from 7 pm, when the alleys empty).
Tipp
Walk the city wall! The Moat Walk along the outside is free and offers great perspectives. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, you can also walk ON TOP of the wall (start at the Grand Master's Palace, 4€) — the view over the old town roofs and the sea is sensational.
Grand Master's Palace★★★
The most imposing building in the Old Town and the symbol of Rhodes par excellence. The Palace of the Grand Masters of the Knights Hospitaller was built in the 14th century as a fortress and administrative seat — a massive, square structure with round corner towers, battlements, and a magnificent courtyard with arcades and ancient statues.
The history of the building is eventful: During the Ottoman rule, it served as a prison and stable. In 1856, an ammunition depot exploded in the basement, destroying large parts. The Italians (who occupied Rhodes from 1912–1947) rebuilt the palace in the 1930s as a summer residence for Mussolini and the Italian king — in a pseudo-medieval style, but with modern comforts. Mussolini used it exactly twice.
Today, the palace houses a museum with excellent mosaic floors from the 2nd–3rd century (brought from the nearby island of Kos), medieval furniture, and an exhibition on the knights' era. Particularly impressive are the Great Hall (banquet hall with Medusa floor mosaic) and the rooms with Hellenistic mosaics — hunting scenes, sea creatures, and mythological depictions in astonishing colors.
In the basement are two permanent exhibitions: "Ancient Rhodes" and "Medieval Rhodes" — both excellently curated and a good introduction to the island's history.
Entrance: 8€ (adults), 4€ (reduced), under 18 free in the off-season. April–October: 8–20 (last entry 19:30). November–March: 8–15. Closed Mondays. Audioguide 4€ (recommended). Combo ticket with Archaeological Museum 12€.
Tipp
The combo ticket (12€) for the Grand Master's Palace + Archaeological Museum is worth it. Both museums are excellent. Plan 1.5 hours for the palace — the basement exhibitions are surprisingly good.
Mandraki Harbor
The ancient commercial harbor of Rhodes, directly north of the Old Town — this is where the legendary Colossus of Rhodes is said to have stood, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The bronze statue of the sun god Helios (about 33 m high) probably stood at the harbor entrance before an earthquake destroyed it in 226 BC after only 54 years. Today, two slimmer symbols mark the entrance: a stag and a doe on stone columns — the heraldic animals of Rhodes.
The harbor itself is picturesque: rows of sailboats and yachts, behind them three stone windmills from the knights' era (once used to grind grain for the ships), and at the end of the pier the Fortress of Agios Nikolaos with the lighthouse of the same name. Excursion boats to Symi, Lindos, and Turkey depart from the harbor.
Along the harbor promenade, cafes and restaurants line up — touristy, but the sunset view over the harbor with the windmills backlit is beautiful. The Nea Agora (New Market), an art-deco building from the Italian period at the end of the harbor, houses small shops and a few tavernas.
Directly behind the harbor lies the Eleftherias Square (Freedom Square) with the Italian governor's residence, the national theater, and the impressive Murad Reis Mosque complex with its small Ottoman cemetery under palm trees.
Lindos★★
47 km south of Rhodes Town lies Lindos — and the first view from the viewpoint above the village is one of those moments for which you travel to Greece. A white village of cubic houses clinging to a rock, above it an ancient acropolis on a 116 m high cliff, and at its feet the horseshoe-shaped St. Paul's Bay with turquoise water — one of the most photogenic places in all of Greece.
In antiquity, Lindos was one of the three powerful city-states of Rhodes (along with Kamiros and Ialysos) and a significant trading center. The ascent to the Acropolis (about 15 minutes uphill, or by donkey for 7€ one-way) leads through the village's alleys, past the famous "captain's houses" from the 16th–17th century with their elaborately decorated courtyards (some accessible as museums).
At the top awaits you an ancient Temple of Athena Lindia (4th century BC) on a terrace, a Hellenistic stoa, a Byzantine church, and a Knights' fortress — all layered over each other, millennia in close quarters. The view in all directions is breathtaking.
★★★ St. Paul's Bay
Directly below the south side of the Acropolis lies this almost enclosed bay — legend has it that the Apostle Paul landed here in 51 AD. The water is crystal clear and calm (the bay is naturally protected), the beach tiny but perfect. In summer crowded, but always beautiful. Best to come early in the morning or evening.
Acropolis entrance: 12€ (adults), 6€ (reduced), under 18 free. April–October: 8–19:30. November–March: 8–14:30. Closed on Mondays. No shade at the top — bring sun protection and water!
Tipp
Come EARLY (8 am opening) or LATE (after 5 pm). Between 10 am and 4 pm, Lindos is brutally crowded with day-trippers. The heat on top of the Acropolis is murderous in summer — take at least 1 liter of water per person. The donkey option uphill sounds fun, but the animals are often overloaded; better to go on foot.
Beaches on Rhodes
Rhodes has over 40 beaches, spread over 220 km of coastline. Basic rule: The east coast is calmer (less wind) and has the better sandy beaches — ideal for swimming and families. The west coast is windier and wavier — perfect for surfing and kitesurfing. Inside the island, there are mountain forests with hiking trails.
★★★ Tsambika Beach
THE sandy beach of Rhodes and one of the most beautiful beaches of the Dodecanese. 800 meters of fine, golden sand in a wide bay, gently sloping, crystal-clear water — perfect for families. Sunshade and loungers about 8€/set, plus a few beach bars. No nearby settlement, so relatively unspoiled. Named after the small monastery Panagia Tsambika on the hill above (300 steps up, great view).
26 km south of Rhodes Town on the east coast. Parking 3€. Bus from Rhodes Town about 40 min.
★★ Anthony Quinn Bay
This small, fjord-like rocky bay was named after the actor who bought land here during the filming of "The Guns of Navarone" (1961) (later reclaimed by the government). Emerald green water between dramatic rocks, surrounded by pines. Excellent for snorkeling — colorful fish, sea urchins, occasional octopuses. But beware: The "beach" is rocky with a few small pebble areas, bathing shoes are a must.
Ladiko, 15 km south of Rhodes Town. Can get extremely crowded in summer. Best before 10 am or after 5 pm.
★★ Prasonisi
The southern tip of Rhodes — and a paradise for windsurfers and kitesurfers. A land bridge connects the main island with a small offshore island, and the wind almost always whistles here. On one side flat, windless water (Aegean side), on the other the full wind power (Mediterranean side). Several surf schools and rentals on site. Also impressive as a natural spectacle — at high tide, the land bridge is flooded.
92 km south of Rhodes Town (about 1.5 hours drive). Surf courses from about 60€/3 hours. Camping options nearby.
Faliraki Beach
The most famous (and commercial) beach of Rhodes. 5 km of sandy beach with all the trimmings: water sports, beach bars, sun loungers (from 6€/set). The north side is lively (bars, clubs), the south side quieter. Directly at the party spot Faliraki — if you're looking for peace, this is the wrong place. But the beach itself is objectively very good: fine sand, clear water, Blue Flag.
Agathi Beach
Small, unspoiled sandy beach near Haraki, 38 km south. Golden sand, shallow water, little infrastructure — just one taverna. The alternative to Tsambika if you want less hustle and bustle. Next to the beach, the ruins of the Crusader castle Feraklos.
Valley of the Butterflies (Petaloudes)
From June to September, millions of Panaxia moths (Jersey Tiger) gather in this wooded valley 26 km southwest of Rhodes Town. The butterflies are attracted by the resin of the amber trees (Liquidambar orientalis) and cover the tree trunks in dense clusters — a surreal spectacle. At rest, they are brown-beige and well camouflaged; only when they take flight do they show their bright orange-red hindwings.
The valley itself is a pleasant, shaded walk (about 1 km uphill) along a stream with small waterfalls and wooden bridges. At the upper end, a small natural history museum and a monastery (Panagia Kalopetra) with a beautiful view.
Important: The butterfly population has declined significantly in recent years — partly due to tourists clapping and making noise to make the animals fly. This stresses the animals and costs them vital energy. Please be quiet and do not disturb the butterflies!
Entrance: 5€ (June–September), 3€ (off-season). Daily 8–18 (summer). Come in the morning — fewer people, more active butterflies. Most impressive end of July/August.
Achtung
The butterfly population in the valley is declining. Please do NOT clap, do not be loud, and do not use flash photography — it harms the animals. Enjoy the spectacle in peace!
Food & Drink
Rhodes has an excellent gastro scene that goes far beyond the typical taverna. In the Old Town, you'll find restaurants in medieval vaults and Ottoman gardens, chic rooftop bars in Lindos, and tavernas in village squares in the hinterland where Yiayia (grandmother) still cooks herself. Rhodian cuisine mixes Greek basics with influences from the Aegean and Turkey.
Important: The Old Town is divided. Along the tourist axis Sokratous Street, most restaurants are mediocre and overpriced. The insider tips are in the side streets, especially in the southern part of the Old Town (Jewish quarter) and around Platia Arionos.
Marco Polo Mansion
One of the most beautiful restaurant settings in all of Greece: An Ottoman mansion from the 15th century with a paradisiacal courtyard garden under bougainvillea and jasmine. The cuisine is creatively Mediterranean with Rhodian accents — lamb kleftiko with herbs, grilled octopus, homemade pasta with seafood. Wine list with excellent Rhodian and Dodecanese wines.
Reservation MANDATORY, especially for the garden. Main courses 18–32€. Agiou Fanouriou 42, Old Town.
Marco Polo Mansion€€€
The most romantic restaurant in the Old Town — in an elaborately restored Ottoman mansion from the 15th century. The courtyard garden under centuries-old trees, bougainvillea, and soft lighting is like a journey back in time. The rooms upstairs can also be booked as a boutique hotel.
The cuisine is sophisticated but not pretentious: lamb kleftiko in a clay pot, grilled swordfish with caper salsa, Rhodian pasta with shrimp, and for dessert Galaktoboureko with Rhodian honey. The wine list showcases what the Dodecanese can do: Athiri and Mandilaria from CAIR, the oldest winery on the island.
Reservation highly recommended, in summer 2–3 days in advance. Main courses 18–32€, starters 8–14€. Agiou Fanouriou 42, Old Town.
To Marouli€€
A refreshing surprise in the Old Town: creative vegetarian and vegan cuisine with a Greek base. The chef uses local, seasonal ingredients and reinterprets Greek classics — fava puree with caramelized onions and capers, vegetable moussaka, stuffed vine leaves with wild herbs, grilled eggplant with walnut-tahini.
The small place in the quiet southern part of the Old Town has only a few tables inside and outside — cozy, personal, not a tourist trap. An experience even for non-vegetarians. Homemade lemonades and Rhodian natural wines.
Main courses 10–16€, starters 6–9€. Reserve in the evening. Sofocleous 76, Old Town.
Ta Kardasia€
Authentic Greek tavern away from the tourist crowds, hidden in a side alley in the southern part of the old town. This is where the locals eat — and you can tell by the prices and the quality. Classic Mezedes: Tzatziki, Saganaki (fried cheese), Dolmadakia, grilled meat from the charcoal grill. The portions are huge.
The atmosphere is simple — plastic tablecloths, wooden chairs on the cobblestones, a TV showing Greek football — but that's exactly what gives it its charm. Best value for money in the old town. The host speaks little English, but is all the more welcoming.
Main courses 7–12€, Mezedes 3–6€. Cash only! Aristotelous 11, Old Town.
Accommodation
Rhodes offers accommodations for every budget, from backpacker hostels to boutique hotels in medieval knight palaces. The most exciting options are in the old town — here you sleep in historic buildings with vaulted ceilings, courtyards, and the feeling of waking up in another era. Outside the walls, there are beach resorts along the east coast and family-friendly all-inclusive complexes around Faliraki and Kolymbia.
Budget: Stay Hostel€
The only real hostel in the Old Town — and one of the best in all of Greece. Clean, modern dorms (4–8 beds, from 18€/night) and private rooms (from 55€), plus a fantastic rooftop terrace with views over the Old Town rooftops and the Grand Master's Palace. Communal kitchen, washing machine, organized bar crawls and excursions. Perfect location in the heart of the Old Town, 2 minutes to Knights Street.
Pythagora 16, Old Town. Booking via Hostelworld or directly. Wi-Fi good, breakfast 5€ extra.
Mid-range: Spirit of the Knights€€
Atmospheric boutique hotel in a restored medieval building from the 13th century — vaulted ceilings, stone walls, antique furniture, but with modern comforts (air conditioning, good beds, chic bathrooms). 6 individually designed rooms, each with its own character. The courtyard with a fountain and bougainvillea is a dream. First-class breakfast with local products.
Double rooms from 90–140€/night depending on the season. Alexandridou 14, Old Town. Book in advance — only 6 rooms!
Mid-range: In Camera Art Boutique Hotel€€
A lovingly renovated house in the Jewish quarter of the Old Town, with artworks on the walls and a quiet, adult atmosphere. 10 rooms with high ceilings, designer furniture, and vintage accents. The location is perfect: quiet, yet just minutes from restaurants and sights. Great breakfast on the terrace.
Double rooms from 80–130€/night. Sofokleous Str., Old Town. Children under 12 not allowed (adults-only concept).
Luxury: Kokkini Porta Rossa€€€
The best boutique hotel in the Old Town — in a spectacularly restored complex of three medieval buildings with its own hamam spa. Only 5 suites, each a work of art with vaulted ceilings, natural stone, handcrafted furniture, and modern luxury. The "Grand Master Suite" has its own whirlpool and view of the palace. Personal concierge, gourmet breakfast, private courtyard garden.
Suites from 200–400€/night. Reservation months in advance necessary. Only 5 suites. Kissthonos, Old Town.
Nightlife
Rhodes has the liveliest nightlife in the Dodecanese — and one of the most intense in all of Greece. The scene is concentrated in two areas:
Orfanidou Street ("Bar Street")
The legendary party mile in the New Town — a whole street full of bars, clubs, and shot bars, packed every night from May to October. Here, an international crowd (a lot of British, Scandinavian) celebrates to everything from house to pop to Schlager. The action starts from 11 pm and goes until 5 am. Entry is usually free, drinks 5–8€.
Recommendations: Colorado Club (largest club, three floors, live acts), Paradiso Beach Club (pool party vibe, Elli Beach), Sfinx Cocktail Bar (relaxed, good cocktails). For Greek nightlife: Privilege (Greek music, locals).
Old Town at Night
For those who prefer it more cultured: The Old Town transforms into a magical setting in the evening. Small cocktail bars in medieval vaults, jazz clubs in cellar rooms, rooftop bars with views of the illuminated palace. Much more atmospheric than Bar Street, but also quieter.
Tips: Macao Bar (cocktails in a stone vault, Agiou Fanouriou), Ronda (rooftop with Old Town panorama), Café Chantant (jazz and blues in a historic setting).
Kos
The third-largest Dodecanese island (290 km²) is the counterpart to Rhodes: smaller, more relaxed, flatter, and greener. Kos is best known as the birthplace of Hippocrates — the father of modern medicine — and as one of the most bicycle-friendly islands in Greece. The terrain is mostly flat (only in the southeast does the Dikeos rise to 846 m), making the island a paradise for cyclists.
Kos Town surprises with a mix of ancient Greek ruins, a Knights' fortress, Ottoman mosques, and Italian art-deco buildings — all in close proximity. Outside the town, endless sandy beaches, the Asklepieion (the ancient healing center of Hippocrates), and small mountain villages with authentic taverns beckon.
The island attracts a younger, sporty crowd — cyclists, surfers, party-goers — but families also find perfect conditions here. Prices are lower than in Rhodes, and the atmosphere is more relaxed. A day trip to the volcanic island of Nisyros (50 min by ferry) is worthwhile, and Bodrum in Turkey is only 20 minutes away.
Plan 3–4 days: 1 day for Kos Town + Asklepieion, 1 day for beaches, 1 day for a bike tour or Nisyros trip.
Tipp
Kos is the flattest Dodecanese island — perfect for cycling! Rental shops everywhere, ~5€/day. The route from Kos Town → Tigaki Beach (12 km) is completely flat and passes through salt flats where you can see flamingos.
Kos Town
The island's capital (19,000 inhabitants) is a fascinating jumble of 2,500 years of history. An earthquake in 1933 (during the Italian occupation) destroyed large parts of the city — the subsequent excavations revealed a huge ancient agora, which today lies as an open-air archaeological park in the middle of the city.
At the harbor dominates the massive Knights' Fortress Neratzia (14th–15th century), connected to the mainland by an ancient bridge. Right next to it stands the famous Plane Tree of Hippocrates — a massive tree over 500 years old (not the original from the 5th century BC, but still impressive), under which the father of medicine is said to have taught his students. The tree trunk has a circumference of 12 meters and is supported by a scaffold.
Behind the harbor, the Defterdar Mosque (18th century) at the lively Eleftherias Square — the social hub of the city with cafes under palm trees. South of it begins the quarter with the Casa Romana (reconstructed Roman villa with mosaics, 4€) and the ancient agora.
Fortress Neratzia
The mighty Crusader fortress at the harbor was built by the Knights of St. John in the 14th and 15th centuries in two construction phases — partly with stones from the ancient agora and the Asklepieion. Impressive walls, towers, and a moat. Inside, little exhibition, but the view from the tower over the harbor and to the Turkish coast is worth it.
4€. Tuesday–Sunday 8–20 (summer), 8–15 (winter). Closed on Mondays.
Asklepieion★★
4 km southwest of Kos Town lies the most significant archaeological site on the island — and one of the most important in ancient medical history. The Asklepieion was a healing center dedicated to the god of healing Asclepius, and the school of Hippocrates. Here, from the 4th century BC, the sick were treated, doctors were trained, and medical research was conducted.
The complex stretches over three terraces on a hillside with spectacular views of Kos Town and the Turkish coast:
- Lowest terrace: Roman baths and patient accommodations. Here, the sick were treated — with herbal medicine, diets, baths, and sleep in the sacred precinct (the gods sent healing dreams).
- Middle terrace: Altars and a small temple of Asclepius (4th century BC). This is where the religious ceremonies took place.
- Upper terrace: The large Doric temple of Asclepius (2nd century BC) — its columns have been partially re-erected and are visible from afar. Next to it, a monumental staircase and a sacred grove of cypresses.
The panoramic view from the upper terrace is magnificent: Kos Town, the harbor, the sea, and in the background, the mountains of the Turkish peninsula of Bodrum. Hippocrates knew where to build his school.
Entrance: 8€ (adults), 4€ (reduced), under 18 free. April–October: 8–20. November–March: 8–15. Closed on Mondays. Little shade — bring sun protection! Reachable by bike or car, also a tourist train runs from Kos Town (3€ one-way).
Tipp
Ride a bike to the Asklepieion — it's only 4 km, and the final incline is moderate. The downhill return with the panorama in front of you is delightful. There is a drinking water fountain in the small olive grove in front of the entrance.
Beaches on Kos
★★ Paradise Beach (Bubble Beach)
The most famous beach on Kos — and the name is not just marketing. At the southwestern tip of the island, near Kefalos, stretches a long, white sandy beach with turquoise water and a unique feature: In some places, natural gas bubbles rise from the seabed (volcanic activity!). The bubbles are harmless and feel funny. Beach bar on-site, loungers from 6€/set.
Southwestern island tip, about 40 km from Kos Town. Bus or car.
★★ Tigaki Beach
10 km long, flat sandy beach on the north coast — the most family-friendly destination on Kos. Golden sand, gently sloping shallow water, some beach bars and taverns, but never overcrowded. Reachable by bike from Kos Town (12 km, completely flat). Along the road, salt flats where flamingos can be observed from March to May!
12 km west of Kos Town. Bike path available. Loungers 6€/set.
Thermal Spring Embros Therme
A unique bathing experience: At Agios Fokas beach (8 km southeast of Kos Town), hot, sulfurous thermal water gushes directly from the rocks into the sea. A natural pool between the rocks where the hot spring water (up to 50°C!) mixes with the cool seawater. Free of charge, but it smells of sulfur. The minerals are said to be good for skin and joints.
Free access, 24/7. Most pleasant in the morning or evening. 8 km southeast of Kos Town, by bike or car.
Marmari Beach
Long sandy beach on the north coast, known as a top spot for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Several surf schools on-site. Beautiful even without a board — spacious, never too crowded, good sand.
Day Trip: Nisyros
The small island of Nisyros (41 km²) is one of the most impressive Dodecanese islands — and it literally slumbers on an active volcano. Just 50 minutes by ferry from Kos, a landscape awaits you that feels like another planet.
The Stefanos volcanic crater in the center of the island (260 m in diameter) is the highlight. You can descend and walk across the crater floor — it trembles slightly underfoot, hot sulfur fumaroles hiss from cracks everywhere, the ground is sulfur-yellow and hot. A surreal, almost apocalyptic experience. Last major eruption: 1888. Volcanologists constantly monitor the activity — the volcano is considered "dormant," not extinct.
Besides the crater, the picture-book village of Mandraki (island capital) is worth a visit: White-blue houses, a Knights' castle, the Panagia Spiliani Monastery (in a cave above the village), and excellent taverns along the harbor promenade. The abandoned village of Nikia on the crater rim offers a breathtaking view into the abyss.
Ferry from Kardamena/Kos: about 50 min., ~12€ return. Organized day trips from Kos ~25€ incl. transfer to the crater. Crater entrance: 3€. Best with your own travel and more time — the organized tours rush through.
Achtung
Wear sturdy shoes in the volcanic crater — the ground is hot in places! No flip-flops. Bring water, no shade. Do not leave the marked paths — the ground can collapse in some places.
Patmos
The "Holy Island" — that's what all of Greece calls this small (34 km²), quiet island in the north of the Dodecanese. Here, the Apostle John wrote the Revelation (Apocalypse), the last book of the Bible, in a cave above the harbor in 95 AD. The cave and the monastery built above it have been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999.
But Patmos is much more than a pilgrimage destination. The island has a very special atmosphere — spiritual, but not pious; quiet, but not boring; exclusive, but not ostentatious. In recent years, a discreet scene of artists, intellectuals, and wealthy Athenians has settled here, appreciating the island's unique spirit.
The architecture is simple and beautiful: The Chora of Patmos (island capital, 150 m above the sea) is considered one of the most beautiful and best-preserved in the Aegean — white, interlocking houses around the massive monastery fortress, car-free alleys, windless courtyards with bougainvillea. Below is the small harbor Skala with a few cafes, boutiques, and ferry docks.
Plan 2–3 days: 1 day for the monastery, cave, and Chora, 1–2 days for beaches and the meditative slowness of the island.
Achtung
Patmos is a holy island — modest clothing when visiting the monastery! Knees and shoulders covered. No loud talking, no flash photography in the monastery. Photography is prohibited in the Apocalypse Cave.
Monastery of St. John (UNESCO)★★★
The Monastery of Saint John the Theologian towers like a fortress at the highest point of the island — and that's exactly what it is. Founded in 1088 by the blessed Christodoulos, who received the entire island as a gift from Byzantine Emperor Alexios I, the monastery was built as a fortified monastery: thick walls, defensive towers, and a single narrow entrance. It had to withstand pirates, Turks, and Venetians — and it did.
Inside, it hides a world of chapels, frescoes, arcades, and hidden courtyards. The main church (Katholikon) contains beautiful Byzantine frescoes from the 12th century. The treasury is a world-class small museum: illuminated manuscripts from the 5th–6th century, a fragment of the Gospel of Mark (6th century), a bull from Emperor Alexios I, icons from the 11th century, and liturgical garments with gold threads.
Even without religious interest, the monastery is impressive — the roof terrace offers a 360° view over the entire island, the surrounding islands, and the Turkish coast. On clear days, you can see as far as Naxos.
Daily 8–13:30, additionally Tue/Thu/Sat 16–18. Treasury 6€. Modest clothing (long pants/skirts, covered shoulders). No flash photography in the church.
Tipp
Come at opening time at 8 am — then you'll have the monastery almost to yourself. The afternoon opening (only Tue/Thu/Sat) is less known and therefore quieter. Don't miss the treasury — the manuscripts are breathtaking!
Apocalypse Cave (UNESCO)★★★
Halfway between Skala and Chora lies the Cave of the Apocalypse (Spilaio Apokalypseos) — the place where the Apostle John is said to have received his divine visions and dictated the Revelation in 95 AD. For Christians worldwide, one of the holiest places ever.
The cave is integrated into a small chapel — silver markings show the spot where John is said to have laid his head to sleep (a hollow in the rock), the rock fissure through which the voice of God spoke to him, and the stone on which his disciple Prochoros wrote down the words.
The room is small, dark, and full of emotion. Regardless of religious belief — the atmosphere is intense. Iconostasis, flickering candles, the smell of incense, and the silence. Some visitors are visibly moved.
Daily 8–13:30, Tue/Thu/Sat also 16–18. Free entry. Photography FORBIDDEN (strictly enforced). Modest clothing. On foot from Skala 15 min. uphill, from Chora 10 min. downhill.
Chora of Patmos
The Chora of Patmos is one of the most beautiful and best-preserved medieval settlements in the Aegean. Snow-white houses with blue or brown-painted windows and doors, winding car-free alleys, blooming courtyards behind heavy wooden doors, and above all, the massive silhouette of the Monastery of St. John.
Unlike many Cycladic islands, the Chora of Patmos is not a polished postcard but a living place. Greek families live here, priests scurry through the alleys, cats laze on windowsills, and in hidden taverns, goat meat from the wood oven is served. The mansions of the wealthy families (16th–17th century) are architectural jewels with painted interior walls, mosaic floors, and furnished terraces — some can be visited by appointment (ask at the monastery).
The Platia (main square) offers a breathtaking panoramic view over both coasts of the island. In the evening, when the day-trippers are gone, it becomes quiet — only the ringing of the monastery bells, the wind, and the murmuring from the taverns. This is the moment for which you come to Patmos.
On foot from Skala about 30 minutes uphill (steep cobblestone path, but picturesque). Or bus/taxi. Hardly any parking at the top.
Tipp
The walk from Skala up to Chora is steep but beautiful — especially in the late afternoon when the light turns golden. Along the way, you pass the Apocalypse Cave. Plan for 45 minutes and bring water.
Beaches on Patmos
★★ Psili Ammos
The best beach on the island — and one of the most beautiful in the northern Dodecanese. "Fine Sand" is what the name means, and it delivers: golden, soft sand in a sheltered bay with crystal-clear, turquoise water. Only accessible via a 20-minute walk (or by boat from Skala) — the small effort keeps the crowds away. A taverna on the beach.
Southeast of the island. On foot from the Grikos-Diakofti road about 20 min. (descent, uphill on the way back!). Or water taxi from Skala.
Lambi Beach
Located at the very north of the island, Lambi is famous for its colorful pebbles — in red, orange, gray, and black, some of volcanic origin. Not a classic swimming beach, but a fascinating natural spot. The water is crystal clear and good for snorkeling. No infrastructure, just nature.
North tip of the island, accessible by car or scooter. Little shade — bring a sunshade.
Kambos Beach
The most accessible beach on the island, only 6 km north of Skala. Sandy beach with pebbles, a few tavernas, loungers available. Popular with families. Reachable by bus or bike.
Grikos Bay
Sheltered bay on the east coast, 4 km south of Skala. Quiet, a few hotels and tavernas. The offshore Kallikatsou Rock (reachable through shallow water) is a climbing destination with caves and old hermit grottos.
Symi
Symi is the insider tip of the Dodecanese — a small island (58 km²) just 25 km north of Rhodes, boasting one of the most photogenic harbors in the entire Mediterranean. When your boat sails into the bay of Gialos, you'll see what everyone means: Hundreds of neoclassical houses in ochre, terracotta, pastel yellow, pink, and sandstone, rising amphitheatrically up steep slopes, along with a handful of churches, windmills, and a clock tower — all mirrored in the still harbor water.
In the 19th century, Symi was one of the wealthiest islands in the Aegean — thanks to sponge diving. The splendid mansions of the sponge merchants still line the harbor today. After World War II (the surrender of the Dodecanese Italians was signed on Symi in 1945) and the end of the sponge trade, the island became impoverished, and the population shrank from 23,000 to under 3,000. Today, many houses are experiencing a renaissance thanks to gentle tourism.
Most visitors come as day-trippers from Rhodes (1 hour, ~15€ return) — they flood the harbor from 10 am to 4 pm and then disappear. Those who stay for at least one night experience the true Symi: the empty harbor at sunset, the lapping of the water, the smell of grilled fish from the taverns, and a silence that you never find in Rhodes.
Tipp
Symi is THE insider tip of the Dodecanese. Stay for at least one night instead of just a day trip — in the evening, when the boats leave, the harbor is yours. The 500 Kali Strata steps up to Chora at sunset are unforgettable.
Gialos (Harbor Town)★★★
The harbor of Symi is simply stunning — one of those places that look unrealistically beautiful in photos and even better in reality. The bay is deep and naturally sheltered, the water mirror-smooth, and around it, the neoclassical houses are arranged in a perfect amphitheater of warm colors.
The architecture is unique in Greece: Instead of the usual cubic-white Cycladic aesthetic, Gialos shows Venetian-Italian style — symmetrical facades with pilasters, cornices, and wrought-iron balconies, three stories high, with tiled roofs. Many houses are listed, and the entire harbor front is one of the best-preserved neoclassical ensembles in the Aegean.
Along the harbor quay, taverns with terraces right by the water line up — the quality is consistently good (the day-trippers ensure competition). Be sure to try the local specialty: small Symi shrimps (tiny, sweet, in garlic and olive oil — sensational). Along the waterfront, small boutiques, a sponge shop, and the shipyard where traditional wooden boats are built and repaired.
From the harbor, the 500 steps of the Kali Strata (the "Good Steps") lead up to Chora — the upper town with the fortress and the most beautiful panoramic views. The ascent takes 15–20 minutes and is especially magical at sunset: the houses glow golden, the sea sparkles, and Symi shows its best side.
Tipp
Climbing the Kali Strata steps at sunset is a MUST. Have an ouzo with a sea view at the top in Chora, then descend in the dark — the steps are lit, and the atmosphere is magical. Sturdy footwear is recommended.
Monastery of Panormitis
On the remote southwest coast of Symi lies the Monastery of the Archangel Michael Panormitis — the patron saint of the island and one of the most revered saints of the Dodecanese. The imposing monastery (18th century) with its baroque bell tower (the tallest in the Dodecanese!) is located directly on a quiet bay, surrounded by pines and mountains.
The main church houses a silver-adorned icon of the Archangel Michael (allegedly miraculous) and a fascinating small museum with votive offerings: bottles thrown into the sea by believers with prayers and banknotes, which (allegedly always!) wash up in the monastery's bay. Additionally, marine artifacts, historical documents, and church art.
The atmosphere is peaceful and authentic — few tourists venture here (most stay in Gialos). The monastery offers simple guest rooms (about 15€/night, spartan but clean) and a small cafe.
Free (donations welcome). Daily 8–13 and 16–18. By boat from Gialos (50 min.) or via a winding but scenically spectacular road by car/scooter (20 min.).
Beaches on Symi
Symi has no large sandy beaches — the coast is rocky and steep. Instead, there are beautiful small pebble coves with crystal-clear water, often only accessible by boat. This makes them exclusive and unspoiled.
★★ Nos Beach
The most accessible beach — only a 15-minute walk from the harbor. Pebble beach in a sheltered bay, clear water, a beach bar, and a restaurant. Popular but never overcrowded (except when a day-trip boat docks).
★★ Agios Georgios (St. George Beach)
One of the most beautiful bays in the Dodecanese — only accessible by boat. Emerald green water in a fjord-like bay, surrounded by high cliffs. No sand, but smooth rocks to lie on. A tavern serves fresh fish. Water taxi from Gialos (about 8€ one-way, 15 min.).
Marathounda Bay
Quiet pebble cove on the west side, accessible by boat or via a hiking trail. Warm and sheltered from the wind. Only a simple tavern — perfect for unwinding.
Nanou Bay
Even more remote: A deep, sheltered bay with a pebble beach and incredibly clear water. Only accessible by water taxi or after a 45-minute hike. No infrastructure — bring your own water and snacks.
Tipp
Organize a water taxi "hopping" from Gialos: For about 20–25€ per person, a boat takes you to a remote bay in the morning and picks you up in the afternoon. The boatmen know the best snorkeling spots!
Day Trip from Rhodes
Symi is the most popular day trip from Rhodes — and rightly so. The crossing by speedboat takes only 1 hour (with the regular ferry 1:45), and the entrance into the bay of Gialos is one of the most beautiful moments of a Greece trip.
Typical day trip itinerary: Departure 9 am from Mandraki Harbor Rhodes → 10 am arrival Gialos → 2.5 hours free time in Gialos (explore the harbor, climb Kali Strata, swim, lunch) → Continue to the Monastery Panormitis (30 min.) → 1-hour monastery visit → Return to Rhodes, arrival around 6 pm.
The organized excursions cost ~25–35€ per person (boat + optional guide, without lunch). Cheaper and more flexible is the regular ferry: Dodekanisos Seaways runs 1–2x daily, ~15€ return. This allows you to set your own pace and — our urgent recommendation — stay one night on Symi.
Tickets: Dodekanisos Seaways (12go.asia or at the harbor). Book in advance in high season (July/August)! Speedboat 1 hr, regular ferry 1:45. Departure Mandraki Harbor, Rhodes.
Practical Information
The Dodecanese are one of the best-connected island groups in Greece thanks to good ferry and flight connections. Nevertheless, the rule is: Flexibility is king. Ferries can be canceled in strong winds (Meltemi, especially July/August), and the smaller islands have fewer connections than the larger ones.
Ferry Connections
The ferry is the main means of transport between the Dodecanese islands. Two main providers:
- Blue Star Ferries: Large, modern car ferries on the Piraeus → Dodecanese route (overnight, approx. 12–18 hours). Cabins available.
- Dodekanisos Seaways: Fast catamarans between the islands (shorter, more expensive, no cars).
Important Connections
| Route | Duration | Price (approx.) | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Piraeus → Rhodes | 13–18 hrs | 45–65€ | Daily (overnight) |
| Piraeus → Kos | 10–12 hrs | 40–55€ | Daily |
| Rhodes → Kos | 2.5 hrs | 20–30€ | 1–2x daily |
| Rhodes → Symi | 1 hr | 12–18€ | 1–2x daily |
| Kos → Patmos | 2.5 hrs | 22–30€ | 3–5x/week |
| Kos → Nisyros | 50 min | 10–14€ | 3–5x/week |
| Rhodes → Karpathos | 4.5 hrs | 25–35€ | 3–5x/week |
| Kos → Kalymnos | 30 min | 6–10€ | Daily (multiple times) |
Prices are indicative for deck tickets (summer 2025). Cabins on night ferries approx. 60–120€ extra. Tickets: ferries.gr, directferries.de or at the harbor.
Tipp
In high season (July/August) book ferries 2–3 days in advance online — especially the speedboats from Dodekanisos Seaways are quickly booked out. In strong Meltemi winds (especially late July/early August), ferries can be canceled — plan buffer days, especially if you need to catch a return flight.
Flights
Two islands have international airports with direct connections from Germany:
Rhodes (RHO) — Diagoras International Airport
One of the largest island airports in Greece. Direct flights from Frankfurt, Munich, Düsseldorf, Berlin, Hamburg, Stuttgart, Cologne, etc. — seasonal (April–October) with Eurowings, Condor, Ryanair, Corendon, Sundair, TUI fly. Flight time 2.5–3 hours. Prices: from 80€ one-way (early booking).
Domestic flights: Daily to/from Athens (50 min., Aegean/Olympic, from 50€), Thessaloniki (1 hr), Crete (1 hr), Kos (30 min.).
Kos (KGS) — Hippocrates Airport
Direct flights from Frankfurt, Munich, Düsseldorf, Berlin, etc. — seasonal (May–October) with Eurowings, Condor, Ryanair, TUI fly. Flight time 2.5–3 hours.
Domestic flights: Daily to/from Athens (50 min., Aegean/Olympic).
Smaller Airports
Karpathos (AOK) and Leros (LRS) have small airports with connections to Athens. Astypalea also has a mini airport (propeller planes!). Patmos has no airport — travel by ferry from Kos (2.5 hrs) or Piraeus (8 hrs by speedboat).
Day Trip to Turkey
The Dodecanese are so close to Turkey that day trips are easily possible — and very popular:
Marmaris from Rhodes
The Turkish coastal town of Marmaris is only 40 km from Rhodes. Speedboat transfer 50 minutes, organized excursions from 30€ including transfer. Typical: Shopping at the bazaar, boat tour, hamam visit. Prices in Turkey are significantly lower than in Greece — leather goods, spices, textiles, and gold jewelry are popular purchases.
Daily May–October, departure 9 am from Rhodes, return 6 pm. Passport REQUIRED (even EU citizens!). Visa: Germans, Austrians, and Swiss can enter Turkey without a visa for up to 90 days. Book boat: Triton Holidays, Marmaris Feribot.
Bodrum from Kos
The elegant Bodrum — the "Saint-Tropez of Turkey" — is only 20 minutes by ferry from Kos. Bodrum has an impressive crusader castle (built by the Knights Hospitaller in the 15th century with stones from the Mausoleum, one of the ancient wonders!), a lively bazaar, excellent restaurants, and legendary nightlife. Much more sophisticated than Marmaris.
Several times daily, ~20€ return. Passport REQUIRED. From Kos harbor, tickets at the harbor or online. Bodrum Ferryboat Association (bodrumferryboat.com).
Achtung
For the Turkey trip, be sure to bring your PASSPORT — the ID card is no longer sufficient for Turkey since 2024! Children also need their own passports. Best to check beforehand if the passport is valid for at least 6 months.
Stadtrundgang
Mittelalter-Rundgang Rhodos-Altstadt
A tour through 2,500 years of history — from the Crusaders to the Ottomans to the Italian occupation. Through the UNESCO World Heritage site of the largest inhabited medieval town in Europe, past knights' palaces, mosques, hidden squares, and the lively Jewish Quarter.
Freedom Gate (Pyli Eleftherias)
Start at the northernmost gate of the Old Town, right at Mandraki Harbor. The gate was broken into the wall by the Italians in 1924. On your right, you'll immediately see the massive fortress walls — up to 12 meters thick! Enter the Old Town and feel the temperature change: it's always a few degrees cooler inside.
10 min.Platia Symi (Square of Ruins)
Just behind the gate, a wide square opens up with the remains of the ancient Temple of Aphrodite (3rd century BC) and medieval buildings. Here, antiquity and the Middle Ages literally stand side by side. In the Archaeological Museum next door (former Knights' Hospital), see the significant collection of Rhodian art and the Aphrodite statue.
20 min.Street of the Knights (Odos Ippoton)
THE street of the Old Town — the best-preserved medieval street in Europe. 200 meters of straight cobblestones, lined with the "Inns" of the seven tongues (nationalities) of the Knights: on the left, the Inn of France (the most splendid), on the right, Spain and Provence. Imagine the knights in full armor marching here to the Grand Master's Palace.
15 min.Grand Master's Palace
At the upper end of the Street of the Knights stands the most powerful building in the Old Town. The facade with its round towers is formidable and intimidating — as it should be. If not yet visited, plan 1–1.5 hours for the interior (Hellenistic mosaics, knights' halls, basement exhibitions). At least see the courtyard with its ancient statues and arcades (included in the ticket price).
45–90 min.Clock Tower (Roloi)
From the palace, head southwest through narrow alleys to the clock tower from the Ottoman era (mid-19th century). For 6€, you can climb up — the view over the sea of rooftops of the Old Town, the mosque minarets, and the sea in the background is fantastic. The price includes a drink at the bar at the top.
20 min.Suleiman Mosque
A few steps further, the pink-domed mosque — the largest in the old town, built after the Ottoman conquest in 1522 in honor of Suleiman the Magnificent. Unfortunately, it is not always accessible, but the exterior view with the minaret and dome is impressive. Next to it is the Turkish library (1794) with rare manuscripts and Qurans.
10 min.Jewish Quarter & Platia Martyron
Further southeast through the quietest and most beautiful alleys of the old town into the former Jewish quarter. At Platia Martyron (Martyrs' Square), a seahorse fountain and memorial plaques commemorate the 1,673 Rhodian Jews who were deported by the Nazis in 1944 and murdered in Auschwitz. The Kahal Shalom Synagogue (founded in 1577, the oldest in Greece) can be visited — a moving little museum.
20 min.Harbor Gate & Commercial Harbor
Through the Sea Gate (Marine Gate) out to the old commercial harbor with a view of the fortress wall from the sea. Here you can best see the massive dimension of the fortification — the moat, the towers, the embrasures. Along the harbor promenade back to Mandraki Harbor or directly into one of the taverns by the water. You've earned it!
15 min.War dieses Kapitel hilfreich?
