Cycladic Islands · Abschnitt 2/6

Santorini

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Santorini

Santorini (Greek: Σαντορίνη, also Thira/Θήρα) is the most famous island in Greece — and one of the most famous in the world. The island is what remains of a colossal volcanic eruption around 1600 BC: A crescent-shaped crater rim that rises 300 meters steeply from the sea, with white villages on the cliff and a sunken volcanic cone in the center of the caldera. The panorama is so unreal that you only believe it on the second day.

Santorini polarizes. Some say: The most beautiful place in the world. Others: Overpriced, overcrowded, overrated. Both are right — it depends on the timing. In July and August, when 5–6 cruise ships dock daily and 10,000+ day visitors crowd through Oia, Santorini is a nightmare. In May, June, September, and October, Santorini is magic.

The island is small (76 km²) and quickly explored. All caldera villages are located on the west edge: Oia in the north, Fira in the middle (capital), Imerovigli in between (highest point). The east side is flatter — here are the black beaches Kamari and Perissa, the Akrotiri excavation, and the vineyards.

Plan for 3–4 nights: enough for the highlights, the caldera walk, a beach day, and a wine tasting. To save on budget, stay in Perissa or Kamari and travel to the caldera during the day (bus 20 min.).

💡 Tipp

Budget tip: Accommodations in Perissa or Kamari instead of Oia or Fira. A double room with a pool costs €60–90/night in Perissa, €200–500 in Oia. The bus to Fira runs every 30 minutes and costs €1.80. You can also experience the sunset in Oia as a day trip.

Achtung

July and August: Cruise ships bring 10,000+ day visitors to Oia and Fira daily. The alleys are so crowded that you can hardly move. Restaurants charge high season surcharges of 30–50%. Hotels on the caldera cost €300–800/night. If possible: come in May/June or September/October.

Oia★★★

Oia (pronounced "I-a", Greek: Οία) is the epitome of the Cycladic dream: A labyrinth of snow-white houses clinging to the caldera cliff, punctuated by azure domes, pink bougainvillea, and the most famous sunsets on the planet. Every Instagram post, every travel cover, every Santorini postcard — chances are the image comes from Oia.

The village (approx. 1,500 inhabitants) lives solely from tourism, and it shows: boutiques, galleries, jewelry shops, and restaurants line up, and the prices are the highest on the island. Yet — Oia is a must. Because the beauty is real, not staged. The architecture developed organically over centuries, the white houses with blue domes are not a film set but built Cycladic tradition.

Sunset in Oia

Every evening, hundreds (in high season thousands) gather at the ruin of the Castle of Oia at the northwest end of the village to watch the sun sink behind the volcanic island of Thirasia into the sea. The sky turns layers of gold to orange to purple, the white houses glow pink, and when the sun disappears, the spectators applaud. It's cheesy — and yet moving.

Tips for the sunset:

  • Arrive at least 1 hour early (in high season 2 hours) for a good spot at the castle
  • Alternative spots with less crowding: The steps next to the main church, the roof of the Santo Wines Tasting Room (wine tasting + sunset, from 25€), or the terrace of the Kastro restaurant (reservation needed)
  • The sunset from Imerovigli (Skaros Rock) is almost as beautiful and much quieter

Sights in Oia

Ammoudi Bay — At the foot of the cliffs, 300 steps down (or by car around the mountain): A tiny fishing harbor with three tavernas right by the water. Here you eat the best fresh fish in Santorini — Dimitris Ammoudi and Sunset Ammoudi serve the daily catch grilled, with ouzo and sea views. Prices: fish from 14€/portion, mixed meze platter 12€. Reservation for sunset necessary. After eating: jump from the rock into the turquoise water (locals lead the way).

Ship Captain's Houses — In the 19th century, Oia was a wealthy seafaring town. The neoclassical captain's houses with their balconies and facades in ocher, terracotta, and blue are architecturally the most beautiful on Santorini. Many are now boutique hotels. The Naval Maritime Museum (3€, 10–14 & 17–20) shows ship models and nautical charts.

Blue Domes — The three famous blue domes of Oia (the ones on every Santorini photo) are located at the Agios Spyridonas Church, accessible via a narrow staircase near the main path. In the morning before 9 a.m., you have them almost to yourself.

Fira & Imerovigli

Fira (also Thira, Greek: Φηρά) is the capital and commercial heart of Santorini. Less photogenic than Oia, but livelier: Here you find restaurants, bars, shops, museums, and nightlife. Fira offers the best panoramic view over the entire caldera — from Oia in the north to Akrotiri in the south, with the volcano Nea Kameni in the middle.

Sights in Fira

★★ Museum of Prehistoric Thera — Small but first-class: Finds from the Akrotiri excavation, including the famous frescoes (Boxing Boys, Spring Frescoes with Swallows, the "Flotilla"). Better to visit here first, then go to Akrotiri — you understand the ruins much better with the frescoes in mind.
6€ (combo ticket with Akrotiri 14€). Wed–Mon 8:30–16:00.

★ Archaeological Museum — Finds from the archaic to the Roman period: ceramics, sculptures, inscriptions. Less spectacular than the Prehistoric Museum, but worthwhile for history enthusiasts.
6€. Tue–Sun 8:30–16:00.

Megaro Gyzi Museum — In a restored Venetian mansion: Old photographs of Santorini before and after the 1956 earthquake that devastated the island. Engravings from the 17th–19th centuries and local art.
3€. May–October: Mon–Sat 10–17.

Catholic Cathedral — Santorini has a surprisingly large Catholic community (Venetian heritage). The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (1823) with its bell tower is a striking photo motif.

Old Port — 588 steps (or the cable car for 6€ per ride) lead down to the old port, where the tender boats of the cruise ships dock. Also possible by donkey (6€) — but please do not ride donkeys: The animals suffer from the heat and weight. The cable car is faster and animal-friendly.

Imerovigli — The Best of Both Worlds

Imerovigli is located between Fira and Oia at the highest point of the caldera (310 m) and offers perhaps the best panoramic view of the entire island. Much quieter than Fira and Oia, but within walking distance (25 min. from Fira along the caldera path). Some of Santorini's most beautiful boutique hotels are located here.

★★ Skaros Rock — The ruin of a Venetian fortress from the 13th century on a dramatic rocky spur. The hike to the summit (20 min. from Imerovigli) rewards with the best 360° panorama of the island. Sunset here is a real alternative to Oia — with a fraction of the people.

Akrotiri — The Pompeii of the Aegean★★★

Mi–Mo 8:00–20:00 (Sommer)
12€ (Kombi 14€)

The excavation site of Akrotiri is one of the most important archaeological sites in the Mediterranean — and one of the most underrated. Around 1600 BC, a colossal volcanic eruption (the so-called Minoan eruption, one of the most powerful in human history) buried a flourishing Bronze Age city under meters of pumice and ash. The inhabitants apparently had warnings (earthquakes?) and fled in time — no bodies were found, unlike in Pompeii.

What remains is breathtaking: A city with two-story houses, paved streets, a sophisticated sewage system (in the 17th century BC!), workshops, warehouses, and elaborate wall frescoes depicting daily life, seafaring, and nature. The frescoes — now in the museum in Fira — are among the earliest and most beautiful artworks in Europe.

The excavations began in 1967 under the Greek archaeologist Spyridon Marinatos and continue to this day — only a third of the city is uncovered. The modern protective roof over the site allows a tour on elevated walkways over the ruins.

Admission: 12€ (combo ticket with Prehistoric Museum in Fira: 14€). Wed–Mon 8:00–20:00 (summer), 8:30–15:30 (winter). Closed on Tuesdays. Audioguide 5€ (recommended). Guided tours from 30€.

The visit takes 1–1.5 hours. Come in the morning at opening — from 11 a.m. the cruise ship busloads arrive.

💡 Tipp

Definitely visit the Museum of Prehistoric Thera in Fira first (the frescoes and everyday objects), THEN drive to Akrotiri. The ruins only become truly impressive when you know how people lived here. The combo ticket (14€) saves 4€.

Beaches: Red Beach, Perissa & more

Santorini is not a classic beach island — the caldera side has cliffs instead of beaches, and the east coast offers volcanic sand and pebble beaches in black, red, and white. No Caribbean turquoise, but a dramatic, surreal backdrop.

★★ Red Beach (Kokkini Paralia)

Santorini's most famous beach: a narrow bay with red lava sand beneath a dramatic, rust-red glowing cliff. The interplay of red rock, black sand, and turquoise water is surreal. The beach is right next to Akrotiri (5 minutes on foot) — perfect as a combination.

Note: The access path along the cliff is officially closed due to rockfalls (but mostly ignored). Safer access is via water taxi from Akrotiri harbor (5€ return) or excursion boat. The beach is small and packed like sardines in high season. Sunbeds and umbrellas: from 10€.

★★ Perissa & Perivolos

The longest and best-organized beach on Santorini: 7 km of black lava sand, gently sloping, crystal-clear water. Perissa (north) and Perivolos (south) blend seamlessly, with beach bars, water sports, restaurants, and hotels right on the beach. This is Santorini's relaxed, affordable side — young backpackers and families vacation here instead of caldera honeymooners.

Sunbeds: 5–10€/day (beach bar minimum often 10€ drinks). Water sports: Jet-ski from 40€, banana boat 10€, kayak 15€/hour. The bar Wet Stories (Perivolos) is the best beach bar on the island.

Kamari

On the other side of the Mesa Vouno rock (which separates Perissa from Kamari): Similar to Perissa, but slightly more organized and family-friendly. The beach promenade with restaurants, shops, and an open-air cinema is lively in the evening. From here, hikes to the ancient city of Ancient Thera on the mountain summit start (45 minutes ascent, worth it for the view and the Doric ruins).

White Beach (Aspri Paralia)

Only accessible by boat (from Red Beach, 5€ one-way): White pumice stone pebbles under white cliffs. Small, wild, little infrastructure — perfect for snorkeling.

Vlychada

The most extraterrestrial beach on Santorini: White-gray pumice formations tower into moon landscape walls. Half deserted, half beach club (Tomato Industrial — stylish beach bar in an old tomato factory). Near the marina and yacht harbor.

Wine Tasting & Assyrtiko

Santorini boasts one of the oldest wine traditions in the world — uninterrupted viticulture for over 3,500 years. The volcanic soil, constant wind, and lack of irrigation force the vines to adapt extremely: Winemakers coil the vines into Kouloura (spiral wreaths on the ground) to protect the grapes from the Meltemi wind and capture nighttime moisture. This unique technique exists nowhere else.

The star grape variety is Assyrtiko (Greek: Ασσύρτικο) — a mineral, crisp white wine with citrus notes, salty-maritime minerality, and an acidity reminiscent of the best Chablis. On Santorini, Assyrtiko achieves a depth and complexity that delights wine connoisseurs worldwide. Also present are Athiri, Aidani (both white), and Mandilaria (red).

The island's specialty is Vinsanto (not to be confused with Italian Vin Santo): a sweet, amber-colored dessert wine made from sun-dried Assyrtiko grapes, with aromas of honey, dried apricots, and caramel. A bottle of good Vinsanto costs 25–60€ — a unique souvenir.

The Best Wineries

★★★ Santo Wines — The largest wine cooperative on the island (1,200 winemakers), located directly on the caldera near Pyrgos. The terrace offers the best wine-tasting view on Santorini: caldera, sunset, a glass of Assyrtiko. Tasting from 12€ (3 wines + snacks), premium tasting with Vinsanto 25€. Daily 10 AM–11 PM (summer). Reservation for sunset is essential.

★★★ Domaine Sigalas — The best winery on the island (some say: in Greece). Yannis Sigalas made Assyrtiko famous internationally. The wines are complex, mineral, and age-worthy. Tasting from 15€, with food 35€. In Baxedes, Oia. Reservation required.

★★ Venetsanos Winery — Spectacularly built into the caldera cliff, with one of the most beautiful terraces on the island. Organic-focused, good Nykteri (lightly oxidized Assyrtiko). Tasting 15–25€. Near Megalochori.

★★ Estate Argyros — Family winery since 1903 with some of the oldest vines on the island (over 200 years!). Excellent Vinsanto. Tasting from 12€. In Episkopi Gonias.

★ Gavalas Winery — Small family winery in Megalochori, specializing in rare indigenous grape varieties (Katsano, Voudomato). Intimate tasting (8–10€) with personal attention.

💡 Tipp

Plan at least one wine tasting — it's a highlight that most beach vacationers miss. Santo Wines at sunset is the most popular experience, Sigalas is the best for wine connoisseurs. Do not drive after the tasting: Taxi from 15€ or organized wine tour from 60€ (incl. 3 wineries + pickup).

Eating & Drinking on Santorini

Santorini's cuisine benefits from the volcanic soils: The cherry tomatoes (Tomatinia), capers, white eggplants, and fava lentils (yellow split peas) from here have an unparalleled aroma. The local specialties:

  • Tomatokeftedes — Fried cherry tomato fritters with mint and capers. THE Santorini dish. Available in every taverna, but quality varies greatly.
  • Fava — Puree made from yellow split peas with onions, capers, and olive oil. Creamy, nutty, addictive.
  • Apochti — Smoked pork, marinated in vinegar and spices. Rare delicacy.
  • Chlorotyri — Fresh sour cream cheese, made only on Santorini.

€ Budget (Main course under 12€)

Lucky's Souvlaki · Fira, 25is Martiou
Santorini's best souvlaki joint. Huge gyros pita for 3.50€, grilled chicken, fresh ingredients. The line at midnight is a good sign.
3–7€ · Daily 11 AM–3 AM

To Psaraki · Vlychada Marina
Fish taverna at the marina, away from the tourist trails. Fresh catch, fair prices, sea view. Grilled sardines 8€, calamari 9€.
8–15€ · Daily 12–10 PM

Nichteri · Kamari Beach Promenade
Solid Greek cuisine at reasonable prices. Moussaka 10€, souvlaki platter 9€, mixed salad 6€. Outdoor seating with a view of the black beach.
7–12€ · Daily 11 AM–11 PM

€€ Mid-range (Main course 15–30€)

Metaxy Mas · Exo Gonia
Many locals say: the best restaurant on the island. Creative Cretan-Cycladic cuisine in a mountain village away from tourists. Goat meat in a clay pot 16€, tomatokeftedes 9€ (the best on Santorini), lamb with eggplant 18€. Reservation required — at least 2 days in advance, a week in high season.
12–25€ · Evenings 6–11 PM, no rest day

To Pinakio · Fira
Hidden in a side alley: Modern Greek cuisine with local ingredients. Fava with caramelized onions 8€, octopus with fava puree 16€, lamb chops 22€. Cozy terrace.
12–25€ · Daily 6–11:30 PM

€€€ High-end (Main course 30€+)

Lycabettus · Oia
Fine dining in a cave with caldera view. Tasting menu (5 courses) from 85€, wine list with over 200 Greek labels. Cuisine: Modern Aegean with local products. One of the most romantic dinner spots in the Aegean.
50–100€ pp · Evenings 7–11 PM, reservation required

Selene · Pyrgos
Santorini's gastronomic reference since 1986. Chef Georgos Hatzigiannakis has brought Cycladic cuisine into the 21st century. Tasting menu (7 courses) 95€, wine pairing 55€ extra. Cooking classes from 120€ (including market visit and lunch).
60–120€ pp · Evenings, reservation required

Staying on Santorini

Santorini has the largest price range of all Greek islands: From 25€ hostel beds to 5,000€ villa suites, everything is available. The rule of thumb: Caldera view = premium. Hotels with a caldera view cost 3–5 times as much as comparable accommodations on the east side.

€ Budget (under 80€/night)

Caveland · Karterados (near Fira)
Santorini's legendary hostel in real cave rooms. Dorm bed from 20€, private cave double room from 55€. Pool, communal kitchen, bar, organized excursions. Bus stop at the door. Perfect for backpackers and solos.
20–70€ · Booking.com ★ 8.5

Hotel Kamari · Kamari Beach
Family-run beach hotel with pool, 2 minutes to the black beach. Clean rooms, friendly staff, good breakfast. No caldera view, but a tenth of the price.
50–80€ · Booking.com ★ 8.7

€€ Mid-range (80–200€/night)

Aethrio Boutique Hotel · Oia
One of the few affordable hotels IN Oia. Cycladic architecture, small pool terrace, no direct caldera view, but 3 minutes' walk to the sunset spot. Breakfast included.
100–180€ · Booking.com ★ 9.1

El Greco Resort · Fira
Directly on the caldera with pool and panoramic view. Surprisingly affordable for a caldera hotel (off-season). Rooms modernly renovated, some with jacuzzi on the balcony.
120–250€ · Booking.com ★ 8.9

€€€ Luxury (200€+/night)

Katikies Hotel · Oia
THE reference for Cycladic luxury: Infinity pools seeming to flow into the caldera, snow-white suites, personal concierge. Photos of this hotel helped spark the Santorini Instagram hype. From 400€ in the off-season, from 800€ in summer.
400–1,500€ · Booking.com ★ 9.5

Grace Hotel Santorini · Imerovigli
Auberge Resorts Collection. Minimalist luxury with perhaps the best infinity pool on the island (heated!). Champagne breakfast, spa, star restaurant. From 500€.
500–2,000€ · Booking.com ★ 9.6

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