Nafplio
Nafplio (Ναύπλιο) is the most beautiful city in the Peloponnese — and perhaps the most beautiful small town in all of Greece. The former first capital of modern Greece (1829–1834) is picturesquely situated on a peninsula in the Argolic Gulf, overlooked by the mighty Palamidi Fortress and surrounded by the small fortress island of Bourtzi in the harbor.
The Old Town is a labyrinth of narrow alleys with Venetian houses, neoclassical facades, blooming bougainvilleas, and atmospheric squares. Unlike many Greek places, Nafplio is architecturally harmonious — no wild concrete mix, but a harmonious blend of Venetian, Ottoman, and Greek architecture. In the evenings, the waterfront promenade turns into a corso, families stroll, children play, and the taverns smell of grilled octopus.
Nafplio is the perfect starting point for excursions to Mycenae (30 min.), Epidaurus (40 min.), Nemea (40 min.), and Tiryns (5 min.). Two to three nights here as a base are ideal. The city has enough attractions of its own to pleasantly fill even a rainy day — which is rarely necessary in the Peloponnese.
Old Town★★★
Nafplio's Old Town is a Venetian jewel — one of the best-preserved historical city centers in Greece. The Venetians ruled here from 1388 to 1540 and again from 1686 to 1715, and their influence is evident everywhere: elegant houses with balconies and shutters, a lion relief fountain on Syntagma Square (the main square), and the Catholic Church Metamorphosis Sotiros, which served as a mosque and even a cinema.
The Syntagma Square (Platia Syntagmatos) is the heart of the city — surrounded by historic buildings, cafes, and the Archaeological Museum (in the Venetian Arsenal). The first Greek National Assembly was held here in 1822. In the evening, the square becomes the city's living room: children run around, couples sit under the plane trees, and the gelato from Antica Gelateria is the best in the Peloponnese.
Intentionally get lost in the alleys behind Syntagma Square. Every other corner offers a photo opportunity: stairs with flower pots, cats on walls, hidden chapels, courtyards with orange trees. The Staikopoulou Street is the main shopping street (souvenirs, jewelry, leather), but the true atmosphere is found in the parallel side alleys.
In the evening, definitely head to the Akti Miaouli promenade — the ultimate sundowner spot. View of Bourtzi, the mountains, and the gulf. Pure Greek dolce vita.
💡 Tipp
Nafplio is a popular weekend getaway for Athenians — prices rise and restaurants are full. During the week, you almost have the city to yourself. And: The best time for photos in the old town is late afternoon when the warm light bathes the Venetian facades in gold.
Palamidi Fortress★★★
The Palamidi Fortress towers 216 meters above the city on a steep rock — one of the most impressive Venetian fortifications in the entire Mediterranean. The Venetians built it in just three years (1711–1714) before the Ottomans captured it in 1715 after a week-long siege. The fortress consists of eight bastions, connected by walls, stairs, and tunnels — an architectural masterpiece of military engineering.
There are two ways up: The famous 999 steps (actually 857–999, depending on the count) from the old town — a sweaty climb of 30–45 minutes, rewarded with one of the most spectacular panoramic views in Greece. Or you can comfortably drive by car via the road from the east side (parking at the top, 4€). Walking is, of course, more atmospheric.
From the top, you overlook the entire Argolis: the old town directly below you, the Argolic Gulf, the mountains of Arcadia, and on a clear day, as far as the islands of Spetses and Hydra. In the main bastion Agios Andreas, you will find a small chapel and the prison where the Greek freedom fighter Theodoros Kolokotronis was imprisoned.
Entrance: 8€ (adults), 4€ (reduced). April–October: 8–20 hrs. November–March: 8:30–15:30 hrs. Last admission 30 min. before closing.
💡 Tipp
The climb up the 999 steps is best done early in the morning (from 8 am) or late afternoon — it's brutal in the midday heat. Bring at least a liter of water. There is NO kiosk at the top. Sturdy footwear recommended, the steps are uneven.
Bourtzi
The small fortress island of Bourtzi lies like a stone ship in the middle of Nafplio's harbor — the city's postcard motif par excellence. The Venetians built the fortress in 1473 to protect the harbor. Later, it served as an execution site, hotel, and finally as a cultural venue.
In summer, small boats run from the harbor (5€ round trip, about 5 min. ride). The fortress itself is currently being restored, but the boat ride and the view back to Nafplio with the Palamidi Fortress above are worth it.
Bourtzi is most beautiful at night, when the fortress is illuminated and reflects in the water — a magical sight from the harbor. Ideal for dinner on the harbor promenade with Bourtzi in view.
Arvanitia Promenade
The Arvanitia Promenade is Nafplio's most beautiful walk — a coastal path carved into the rock that winds from the old town around the Akronauplia peninsula. The path leads along cliffs with crystal-clear water below you, past small bathing coves and rock platforms from which locals and the brave dive into the sea.
At the end of the path lies Arvanitia Beach — a small pebble beach with surprisingly clean water for a city location. Ideal for a refreshment after the Palamidi climb. Sunbeds and umbrellas cost about 8€ per set. There is a small beach bar for drinks and snacks.
The entire walking path is about 1.5 km long and takes about 20 minutes without swimming stops. Particularly atmospheric at dusk when the sun sets behind the mountains of Arcadia.
💡 Tipp
The small rock platforms below the path are perfect swimming spots — the water is deep and crystal clear. But be careful: There are no lifeguards and the rocks can be slippery. Water shoes recommended.
Eating & Drinking in Nafplio
Nafplio has the best restaurant density in the Peloponnese — from upscale taverns to authentic souvlaki stands.
3venta (€€, modern Greek)
In an atmospheric side alley of the old town, 3venta serves modern Greek cuisine at a high level. The menu changes seasonally: in spring, lamb chops with wild herbs, in summer, grilled octopus with fava bean puree, in autumn, mushroom risotto with truffles from Arcadia. The wine list focuses on Nemea wines (definitely try the Agiorgitiko!) and selected island wines. Reservation recommended on weekends.
Main courses: 14–24€. Staikopoulou 16. Evenings from 19:00, Wed–Mon. Reservation: +30 27520 21690.
Arapakos (€, Souvlaki)
The best souvlaki place in Nafplio — and that's saying something, as the competition is fierce. Arapakos does everything right: freshly grilled meat (pork, chicken, lamb), homemade pita bread, homemade tzatziki, and the portions are huge. The Pita Gyros (3.50€) is a masterpiece of crispy gyros, tomatoes, onions, and fries in warm pita. The small terrace in a side alley fills up quickly from 13:00.
Pita: 3–5€, portions: 7–10€. Vasileos Konstantinou 10. Daily 12–23 hrs.
Ta Fanaria (€€)
Ta Fanaria is hidden in a quiet alley of the upper old town and is a secret tip for traditional Peloponnesian cuisine. The terrace under an ancient mulberry tree is one of the most romantic dining spots in the city. Specialties: Kokkinisto (beef stew), Gemista (stuffed peppers and tomatoes), and the sensational Galaktoboureko for dessert. The portions are generous and honest — the owner herself does the cooking.
Main courses: 10–18€. Staikopoulou 13. Evenings 18:30–23 hrs. Reservation recommended.
Further Recommendations
- Savouras (€€) — Fish restaurant at the harbor, daily fresh catch, grilled sea bream and calamari. Touristy, but the fish is top-notch.
- Antica Gelateria (€) — The best ice cream in Nafplio, on Syntagma Square. Pistachio and yogurt-honey are the stars. 2.50€ per scoop.
- Karonis Wine Bar (€€) — Over 300 Greek wines, many by the glass, with small meze plates. The owner knows every winemaker personally.
Staying in Nafplio
Nafplio has excellent accommodations for every budget — all in or near the old town.
Budget: Pension Marianna (€)
Family-run pension on the steps to Akronauplia — the location alone is worth gold. Simple, clean rooms with balcony and sea view (the upper rooms!). Breakfast on the terrace with panoramic views of the gulf and Bourtzi. The hostess Marianna is an institution — she knows every corner of the city. Book early, the pension has only 12 rooms.
Double room from 55€/night with breakfast. Potamianou 9.
Mid-range: Ippoliti Hotel (€€)
Boutique hotel in a Venetian mansion from the 18th century, lovingly restored. Each of the 19 rooms is individually furnished with antiques, high ceilings, and modern comforts. Small courtyard with orange trees, excellent breakfast with homemade jams. Perfect location on Syntagma Square.
Double room from 95€/night with breakfast. Syntagma Square.
Mid-range: Hotel Aetoma (€€)
Stylish city hotel in the heart of the old town with 14 individual rooms in a restored stone house. Excellent value for money: tastefully furnished, good breakfast, friendly staff. The rooftop terrace with a view of Palamidi is perfect for morning coffee.
Double room from 80€/night with breakfast. Othonos 3.
Luxury: Amphitryon Hotel (€€€)
The best hotel in Nafplio — an elegant 5-star establishment right on the water with views of Bourtzi. Modern rooms with balcony and sea view, pool, spa, and a restaurant that is among the best in the region. Breakfast on the terrace with a view of the fortress island is an experience. For a special occasion.
Double room from 180€/night with breakfast. Spiliadou.
Luxury: Nafplia Palace (€€€)
Perched on the Akronauplia peninsula with perhaps the most spectacular view of any hotel in the Peloponnese. Pool on the cliff above the sea, elegant suites, and the entire old town at your feet. The only downside: the climb on foot (or shuttle). But for that, absolute peace and privacy.
Double room from 200€/night with breakfast. Akronauplia.
💡 Tipp
Nafplio is the perfect starting point for the Peloponnese. 2–3 nights here as a base, and you can easily reach Mycenae (30 min.), Epidaurus (40 min.), Nemea (40 min.), and Tiryns (5 min.) as day trips.