Alfama, Castelo & Tram 28

The Alfama is the only district in Lisbon that largely survived the devastating 1755 earthquake — thanks to its rocky foundation. Therefore, it is the oldest and most authentic district of the city: a labyrinth of narrow, steep alleys (becos), stairs (escadinhas), small squares, and houses clinging to the hill like swallows' nests on a cliff.

Here, laundry still hangs between balconies, old people sit on folding chairs in front of their doors, it smells of grilled sardines, and Fado can be heard from open windows. Alfama is not a museum — it is a living district, slowly gentrifying, but still preserving its soul (for now).

The Most Beautiful Alleys

• Rua da Judiaria: In the former Jewish quarter — one of the narrowest alleys in Lisbon, barely wide enough for two people.
• Beco do Carneiro: Hidden alley with azulejo facades and clotheslines. Lisbon postcard motif.
• Escadinhas de São Miguel: The famous staircase with colorful houses — perfect Instagram motif, but also beautiful without a camera.

Miradouros — The Viewpoints

Lisbon's Miradouros are the best free attractions in the city — and Alfama has the most beautiful ones:

• Miradouro de Santa Luzia: Romantic viewpoint with bougainvillea, azulejo murals, and a view over the red roofs of Alfama to the Tagus. Perfect for breakfast with an espresso.
• Miradouro da Graça: On the hill of the same name — spacious terrace with a bar, view of the Castelo, the Tagus, and the Ponte 25 de Abril. The best place for sunset in Lisbon.
• Miradouro da Senhora do Monte: The highest viewpoint in Lisbon — 360° panorama over the entire city. Less known, fewer tourists, just as spectacular.
• Portas do Sol: The "Gates of the Sun" with a large terrace, street musicians, and the iconic view over Alfama to the Tagus. Tram 28 often waits here.

The Castelo de São Jorge sits atop the highest hill in Alfama and is Lisbon's oldest structure — its roots trace back to the Iron Age. Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths, and Moors built here before Portugal's first king, Afonso Henriques, captured the castle from the Moors in 1147 with the help of crusading knights.

What is there to see?

• The walls and towers: Eleven preserved towers, walkable battlements, and walls with panoramic views over all of Lisbon, the Tagus River, and the Ponte 25 de Abril. The Torre de Ulisses has a Camera Obscura (guided demonstration included in the entrance fee).
• Archaeological excavation: Beneath the castle walls, remnants from the Iron Age, Roman, and Moorish periods have been uncovered. A fascinating insight into 3,000 years of city history.
• The gardens: Peacocks strut through the gardens, cork oaks provide shade, and the view from the cannon terrace is postcard-worthy.

Is the entrance worth it?

The 15€ entrance fee is fair for the view and the history — but the very best view is free from the surrounding Miradouros. Those on a budget can skip the entrance and enjoy the view from Graça or the Portas do Sol.

The Eléctrico 28 is Lisbon's most famous tram line and one of Europe's most iconic rides. The yellow wooden carriages from the 1930s rattle through the narrowest streets of Alfama and Graça, past azulejo facades, steep stairs, and enchanted squares. In some curves, the tram almost brushes the house walls — the feeling of riding through Lisbon's living room is unique.

The Route

Tram 28 runs from Martim Moniz (near Rossio) through Alfama and Graça upwards, over the Baixa and the Chiado to the Cemitério dos Prazeres. The entire route takes about 40 minutes — if it's not too crowded (which is rarely the case).

Practical Tips

• Price: 3€ with a loaded Viva Viagem card (instead of 7€ from the driver). The Lisboa Card covers the ride.
• Pickpockets: Tram 28 is unfortunately Lisbon's number one pickpocket hotspot. Keep valuables close to your body, backpack in front. Be especially careful when getting on and off.
• Waiting time: At the terminus Martim Moniz, the queue is often long (30–60 mins in summer). Trick: Board one or two stops further — it's less crowded there.
• Alternative: The Bus 737 runs a nearly identical route through Alfama — without the queue and pickpocket stress. Costs 1.65€ with Viva Viagem.

Alfama is the cradle of Fado — the mournful music that expresses Lisbon's soul originated here in the 19th century. Fado (from Latin fatum = fate) is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage and the musical embodiment of Saudade — that untranslatable Portuguese feeling of longing, melancholy, and bittersweet memory.

How to Experience Fado?

In the Casas de Fado of Alfama, a Fadista (singer) performs, accompanied by a guitarra portuguesa (12-string lute) and a classical guitar. The atmosphere is intimate: dim lighting, candlelight, silence. During the singing, there is no talking, no eating, no looking at the phone. Fado demands respect and devotion — and gives both back.

Where to Hear Fado?

• Tasca do Chico: Tiny, authentic Fado bar in Alfama (and in Bairro Alto). No stage — the Fadistas stand among the tables. Minimum consumption: around 15–20€. Reservation recommended.
• Mesa de Frades: Former chapel with breathtaking azulejo decoration. High-class Fado in an intimate setting. Minimum consumption: around 25€.
• A Baiuca: Family-run since the 1950s. Guests also sing here — real vadio (improvised Fado). It gets lively from 10 PM. No minimum consumption, small surcharge on drinks.
• Clube de Fado: A bit more touristy, but with first-class Fadistas and good food. Minimum consumption: around 25€.

Costs

Most Fado houses have a minimum consumption (consumo mínimo) of 15–30€ per person, covering drinks and/or food. This is fair — you get live music in an intimate setting, often for 2–3 hours. Free Fado: In some bars in Alfama and Bairro Alto, there are spontaneous Fado evenings without an entrance fee — just wander through the alleys and follow the sounds.

The Azulejos (hand-painted ceramic tiles) are Portugal's most visible cultural heritage — and in Lisbon, they are everywhere: on house facades, in churches, on stairs, in metro stations, in restaurants, and on fountains. The tradition dates back to the 15th century when Moorish craftsmen created the first geometric tiles.

The Most Beautiful Azulejo Spots in Alfama

• Igreja de São Vicente de Fora: The monastery has a cloister completely clad in blue and white azulejos — scenes from La Fontaine's fables. Entrance: 5€.
• Facades on Rua das Escolas Gerais: Entire streets with azulejo facades in blue, green, and yellow.
• Miradouro de Santa Luzia: The wall of the viewpoint shows azulejo panoramas of old Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo

The National Tile Museum is one of Europe's most unique museums — housed in the former Madre de Deus Convent (16th century), it showcases the development of azulejo art from the 15th century to today. Highlight: A 23-meter-long panorama of the Lisbon harbor before the 1755 earthquake. The convent itself — with its gilded Baroque interior — is worth the visit alone. Entrance: 5€.