The North — Santana, Porto Moniz & Laurel Forests

Santana is Madeira's most iconic village — not because of its size (about 3,500 inhabitants), but because of its famous Casas de Colmo: triangular, thatched cottages with brightly painted doors and window frames that look like something out of a fairy tale. These traditional farmhouses, whose shape dates back to the 16th century, are the quintessential landmark of Madeira.

In the Parque Temático da Madeira on the outskirts of the village, several Casas de Colmo have been restored to showcase the traditional rural life of the island. The theme park (entrance 10€) also offers a walking path through native flora and a multimedia exhibition on the history and culture of Madeira. A few authentic Casas de Colmo still stand in the village itself — they are inhabited and not a museum, so photograph respectfully.

The surroundings of Santana are a hiker's paradise: From here, the Levada hikes to Caldeirão Verde (one of Madeira's most beautiful, see Levada chapter) and the neighboring Caldeirão do Inferno begin. The landscape is lush green — dense laurel forests, tree ferns, moss cushions, and mist banks wafting through the trees. Santana is located in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Laurissilva — the largest contiguous laurel forest in the world.

The municipality of Santana has been a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 2011 — a testament to the unique fusion of culture and nature in this region. From Santana, a trip to Pico Ruivo (1,862 m) via the access path from Achada do Teixeira is also worthwhile — the shortest and easiest ascent to Madeira's highest peak (about 45 minutes, 2.8 km).

Porto Moniz is located at the extreme northwest tip of Madeira and is famous for its natural seawater pools (Piscinas Naturais) — pools of black volcanic rock naturally filled with Atlantic water, where you can safely swim among the waves of the open ocean. A unique natural experience.

The Natural Pools

There are two pool complexes: The Piscinas Naturais (natural, rustic, entrance 3€) and the more modern Aquário Natural (with changing rooms, showers, and sun terrace, entrance 3€). In both, you swim in crystal-clear seawater while the Atlantic surf crashes against the rocks a few meters away — spectacular during high tide! The pools are open year-round, best enjoyed in sunshine and light surf.

Besides the pools, Porto Moniz offers a small aquarium (Centro de Ciência Viva, 7€) with fish from Madeiran waters and a tranquil village center with restaurants serving fresh fish. The Fortress of São João Baptista (1730) on a rock above the pools offers a beautiful view of the coast and now houses the aquarium.

Getting there: The drive from Funchal to Porto Moniz (about 1.5 hours) is an experience in itself — the ER101 (old coastal road) winds along steep cliffs, through short tunnels, and past waterfalls that plunge directly onto the road. Hairpin bends, single-lane passages, and the feeling of driving on the edge between land and ocean — one of Europe's most spectacular coastal roads. Alternatively: The faster (but more boring) Via Rápida (highway, 1 hour).

São Vicente lies at the foot of steep, green cliffs on the north coast and is a charming, quiet place with a pretty Baroque church, narrow streets, and a handful of good restaurants. The main reason for a visit is the Grutas de São Vicente — volcanic caves formed about 890,000 years ago by a lava flow.

Grutas e Centro do Vulcanismo

The lava caves stretch over 700 meters and can be visited on guided tours (30–45 minutes, entrance 8€). The caves impressively show what the inside of a cooled lava flow looks like: stalactites of lava, magma chambers, and bizarre rock formations. This includes the Volcanism Center, a small but well-made museum explaining Madeira's volcanic origin — with interactive displays and a simulated volcanic eruption.

The surroundings of São Vicente are a paradise for nature lovers: The Ribeira de São Vicente valley cuts deep into the mountains and offers hiking trails through dense vegetation along the river. Over the Encumeada Pass (1,007 m), the road spectacularly leads between the north and south coasts — in clear weather, you can see both coasts simultaneously from here.

Between São Vicente and Porto Moniz lies the section of the old coastal road ER101, considered one of the most impressive road sections in Europe: The road was carved into the steep cliffs, crosses deep gorges on narrow bridges, and in several places, waterfalls plunge directly onto the roadway — an experience best enjoyed in the rain (but drive carefully!).

The Laurissilva laurel forest is Madeira's green jewel and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. With over 15,000 hectares, it is the largest contiguous laurel forest in the world — a relic from the Tertiary period that covered all of southern Europe 20 million years ago and now only exists in this form on the Atlantic islands (Madeira, Azores, Canary Islands).

The forest is a living fossil: gigantic laurel trees (Laurus azorica, Ocotea foetens) with moss-covered trunks, tree ferns, giant heather, carnivorous plants, and a silence only broken by the dripping of water and the call of the Madeira storm-petrel (one of the rarest birds in the world). On foggy days, when clouds waft through the treetops, the forest feels like a place from another time.

The best access points to the laurel forest

• Levada do Caldeirão Verde: The classic Levada hike through the laurel forest (from Queimadas Forestry Park, 13 km round trip, see Levada chapter).
• Vereda dos Balcões: An easy, short walking path (1.5 km, 30 minutes) to the Balcões viewpoint — perfect for those who want to experience the laurel forest without hiking for hours. The view into the green Ribeira da Metade valley is breathtaking.
• Levada do Rei: A quiet, less frequented Levada hike through the laurel forest from São Jorge (10 km round trip) — ideal for bird watchers.
• Fanal: A high plateau (1,150 m) with ancient, gnarled laurel trees that create a ghostly atmosphere in the fog. One of Madeira's most photogenic places — Fanal in the mist looks like a place from "Lord of the Rings". Accessible by car, short walking paths.

The laurel forest is not only beautiful but also vital: It acts as a natural sponge, capturing the moisture of the trade wind clouds and feeding it into the Levadas — without the forest, Madeira's water supply would collapse. The reforestation and protection of the Laurissilva are among the most successful conservation projects in Europe.