Christchurch & Canterbury

On February 22, 2011, at 12:51 PM, a 6.3 magnitude earthquake shook Christchurch — only 5 km deep and directly beneath the city. 185 people died, including 115 in the collapsed CTV building alone. It was the deadliest natural event in New Zealand's history. The city center was 80% destroyed: The Christchurch Cathedral, the Canterbury Television Building, hundreds of historic buildings, and entire streets fell. Over 10,000 homes had to be demolished. Large parts of the eastern city area were declared a "Red Zone" — too hazardous for rebuilding.

But out of the destruction emerged something extraordinary: A city reinventing itself from scratch. Empty lots became community gardens, containers turned into shopping centers (the famous Re:START Mall), and street art transformed wastelands into open-air galleries. The Transitional Architecture — temporary structures made from unusual materials — became a worldwide symbol of resilience and creative rebuilding.

★★★ Canterbury Earthquake National Memorial

On the banks of the Avon River (Ōtākaro) stands the Canterbury Earthquake National Memorial — a 100-meter-long wall of white marble engraved with the names of the 185 victims. Water flows over the surface, reflecting the light. It is a quiet, moving place — visit alone, take your time, read the names. Next to it are 185 empty white chairs on the grass — one of the most famous earthquake artworks, set up every week by the artist and her helpers. Free, accessible 24/7.

★★★ Cardboard Cathedral (Transitional Cathedral)

The Christchurch Transitional Cathedral — also known as the "Cardboard Cathedral" — is the symbol of the rebuild and one of the most unusual church buildings in the world. The functioning cathedral (services, concerts, weddings) consists of 98 reinforced cardboard tubes (each 60 cm in diameter, coated with polyurethane), a triangular facade with stained glass windows, and containers as side walls. Designed by Japanese star architect Shigeru Ban (Pritzker Prize winner), who specializes in "disaster architecture." It was originally intended to stand for only 10 years (until the original cathedral is rebuilt), but has long since become a permanent landmark.

234 Hereford Street. Daily 9:00–17:00. Free entry (donations welcome).

★★ Christchurch Art Gallery (Te Puna o Waiwhetū)

The reopened Christchurch Art Gallery (Cnr Worcester Blvd & Montreal Street) houses over 7,000 works — from traditional Māori art to New Zealand modernism to international collections. The glass extension reflects the sky and surrounding buildings. Particularly noteworthy: The Bill Hammond paintings (surreal New Zealand bird landscapes) and the Shane Cotton works (Māori symbolism in contemporary art). Free. Daily 10:00–17:00.

★★ Botanic Gardens

The Christchurch Botanic Gardens (Rolleston Avenue) are one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in the Southern Hemisphere — 21 hectares in the heart of the city, established in 1863. Highlights: the Conservatory (tropical plants, orchids, cacti), the Rose Garden (in full bloom November–March, over 250 varieties), the ancient trees along the Avon River (the oaks and trees survived the earthquake unscathed), and the Peacock Fountain. Perfect for a relaxed afternoon stroll. Free. Daily 7:00 until one hour after sunset.

A Punting on the Avon tour (30 NZD, 30 minutes) is the most beautiful way to experience the gardens: A punter steers the flatboat through the meandering Avon River, past weeping willows, duck colonies, and historic bridges — very British, very charming.

★ Canterbury Museum

The Canterbury Museum (Rolleston Avenue, next to the Botanic Gardens) largely survived the earthquakes unscathed and showcases Canterbury's history — from Māori settlement to the British colonial era to the earthquake. The Antarctic Gallery is particularly noteworthy: Christchurch has been the gateway to Antarctica for over 100 years (Scott and Shackleton started their expeditions here). Original sleds, equipment, and photos of the heroic era. Free.

Dining in Christchurch

C1 Espresso (185 High Street) — Christchurch's most famous café: In a historic post office building, orders are shot to your table via pneumatic tube (like in the 19th century!). Excellent coffee, bagels, and burgers. Flat White 6 NZD.

King of Snake (145 Victoria Street) — Pan-Asian cuisine in a stylish basement venue. Sharing plates (16–28 NZD), cocktails, DJs on weekends.

Inati (Corner of Church Lane & Gloucester Street) — One of the best restaurants on the South Island. Chef Simon Levy serves a 7-course tasting menu (120 NZD) with local ingredients — Canterbury lamb, Akaroa salmon, Banks Peninsula cheese. Reservation recommended.

The Banks Peninsula is an extinct volcanic double cone rising 75 minutes southeast of Christchurch from the flat Canterbury Plains — and feels like a completely different country. Rugged bays, lush green hills with sheep, scattered farms, and the charming Akaroa — New Zealand's only French settlement.

★★ Akaroa — France at the Other End of the World

Akaroa was founded in 1840 by 63 French whalers and settlers — just weeks before the British officially claimed New Zealand with the Treaty of Waitangi. The French were too late, but their legacy lives on: Street names like Rue Lavaud, Rue Jolie, and Rue Balguerie, charming wooden houses in French colonial style with shutters and flower boxes, and a culinary scene reminiscent of Provence.

The Boulangerie (33 Rue Lavaud) serves croissants and pain au chocolat on a Parisian level — in the morning, the whole street smells of butter. The Little Bistro (33 Rue Lavaud) serves French-New Zealand cuisine: Akaroa salmon, Canterbury lamb with herbs, crème brûlée — with a view of the harbor. One of the best small restaurants on the South Island (main course 32–45 NZD, evening reservation recommended). The Akaroa Fish & Chips (Beach Road) are legendary — fresh blue cod with kumara wedges right by the water (18 NZD).

★★★ Hector Dolphins

The highlight of Akaroa is the Hector dolphins (Tūpoupou) — the smallest and rarest dolphins in the world. Only 1.2–1.4 meters long, with a distinctive round dorsal fin (which looks like a Mickey Mouse ear), they occur only in New Zealand's coastal waters — and Banks Peninsula is one of their last refuges (estimated only 7,000 animals worldwide).

The Swimming with Dolphins tour (Black Cat Cruises, from 170 NZD, 3 hours) offers the rare chance to swim with these playful animals. Wetsuit and snorkel are provided. The Hector dolphins are curious and often come astonishingly close — their tiny size and playful nature make the encounter especially touching. The sighting rate is over 98%. Observation tour (without swimming) from 85 NZD.

The Drive — Summit Road

The drive from Christchurch to Akaroa via the Summit Road is Canterbury's most dramatic coastal road: Panoramic views over the entire peninsula, the Pacific, the Canterbury Plains, and on clear days to the Southern Alps. Along the way: Hilltop Tavern (on the pass, best panorama for a beer — pint from 12 NZD, fish pie 22 NZD) and Barry's Bay Cheese (artisan cheese, free tasting — the triple cream brie is addictive). The faster route is via SH75 — recommended for the return journey.

Other Highlights of the Peninsula

The Banks Track (2 days, privately organized, from 350 NZD including accommodation on farms) is one of the most beautiful coastal hikes on the South Island — over green hills with sheep, along dramatic cliffs, and to secluded bays accessible only on foot. The Stony Bay Peak Track (5–6 hours) leads to the highest point of the peninsula with a 360° panorama. In summer, you will find secluded beaches at the peninsula's bays, accessible only via gravel roads — Okains Bay and Le Bons Bay are the most beautiful.

The TranzAlpine is one of the most famous train routes in the world — 223 kilometers and 4.5 hours from Christchurch on the east coast to Greymouth on the west coast, across the Southern Alps. The journey crosses the Canterbury Plains, climbs through the Waimakariri Gorge, crosses Arthur's Pass (737 m), and descends through rainforest to the wild west coast — three completely different landscapes in one ride.

The Route in Detail

Christchurch → Springfield (1 hour): The flat, golden Canterbury Plains — farmland as far as the eye can see, with the Southern Alps on the horizon, slowly approaching. The ascent begins at Springfield.

Springfield → Arthur's Pass (1.5 hours): Here it gets dramatic. The train follows the Waimakariri River (turquoise blue, wide, braided river) through an increasingly narrow gorge. The Waimakariri River Bridge and another 15 viaducts cross deep gorges. The highlight: The Staircase Viaduct — a curve over a steep gorge, where you have a fantastic view down from the open-air carriage. The vegetation changes from farmland to bushland to alpine tussock landscape.

Arthur's Pass → Otira (30 minutes): The Otira Tunnel (8.5 km long, one of the longest railway tunnels in the Southern Hemisphere) crosses the main range of the Southern Alps. At the west exit: immediately rainforest — the contrast to the golden east is sudden and impressive.

Otira → Greymouth (1.5 hours): Through the dramatic Otira Gorge with steep rock walls, waterfalls, and dense rainforest down to the west coast. The train follows the Grey River to Greymouth.

The Open-Air Carriage

The Open-Air Viewing Car is the best place for photos and experiences — despite wind and cold (bring a warm jacket!). You stand in the open, feel the wind, smell the rainforest, and have an unrestricted 360° view. In the Waimakariri Gorge and when crossing the viaducts, the effect is spectacular. The carriage is accessible to all passengers — just go behind.

Scenic Plus (Premium Class)

The Scenic Plus class (from 249 NZD) offers larger panoramic windows, guaranteed seating (in standard class allocation), served breakfast (muesli, yogurt, fruit salad, coffee), a selection of local wines and cheeses during the journey, and a dedicated steward who comments on the highlights. Worth it for the unique experience.

Round Trip or Continue?

Most travelers go round trip on the same day: Christchurch departs at 8:15, Greymouth arrives at 12:45 (2.5-hour stay), Greymouth departs at 14:05, Christchurch arrives at 18:31. In Greymouth: quick lunch and a short walk at the harbor.

Better: Overnight in Greymouth and the next day continue to the Pancake Rocks in Punakaiki (45 min. north — bizarre, pancake-layered rock formations with blowholes where seawater shoots meters high into the air) or directly to the Franz Josef/Fox Glaciers (2.5 hours south).

The Arthur's Pass National Park is located on the roof of the South Island — an alpine national park with rugged peaks, waterfalls, Keas (cheeky mountain parrots), and some of the best day hikes on the South Island. The eponymous mountain village at 737 meters is New Zealand's highest village and the perfect stopover between Christchurch and the west coast — or a standalone hiking destination for 2–3 days.

★★★ Devils Punchbowl Falls

The Devils Punchbowl Falls (131 meters high) are the postcard motif of the park — a short, steep climb (1 hour round trip, 200 meters elevation gain) from the village leads to the base of the waterfall, which plunges into a perfect natural rock arena. In spring (September–November), the waterfall is at its most powerful — snowmelt fills the stream. The path is well-maintained but steep in places — sturdy footwear recommended.

★★ Avalanche Peak Track

The Avalanche Peak Track (8 km, 6–8 hours, 1,100 meters elevation gain) is the most challenging and rewarding day hike in the park: At the summit (1,833 m), you have a 360-degree panorama over the entire Southern Alps — snow-covered peaks in all directions, the Waimakariri River as a turquoise ribbon in the valley, and in clear weather, you can see from the Pacific to the Tasman Sea (east to west coast). The ascent is steep and the last 200 meters on loose scree, but not technically difficult. Only in good weather!

★★ The Keas

The Keas — New Zealand's cheeky, highly intelligent mountain parrots (the only alpine parrots in the world) — are ubiquitous in Arthur's Pass. The olive-green birds with bright orange-red underwings are notorious for their curiosity and destructiveness: They tear off wiper blades, dismantle shoes, open backpack zippers, steal sandwiches, and have even learned to open trash cans. They use tools, solve complex puzzles, and can work remarkably coordinated in groups — one Kea distracts, the other steals.

Keas are endangered (about 3,000–7,000 animals) and strictly protected. Do NOT feed them (human food makes them sick and dependent) and secure all edibles in the car or backpack. They often come to the visitor center parking lot, the campsite, and the viaduct lookout — perfect for observing and photographing. Their intelligence and cheeky behavior make them the most entertaining birds in New Zealand.

Great Alpine Highway

From Arthur's Pass, the Great Alpine Highway (SH73) leads in 2 hours to Greymouth on the west coast — one of the most beautiful pass roads in the Southern Hemisphere. The Otira Gorge on the west side is particularly dramatic: steep switchbacks, dripping rainforest, waterfalls directly onto the road, and an abrupt change from alpine tussock landscape to lush, moss-covered rainforest within a few kilometers.

Arrival at the Airport

The Christchurch Airport (CHC) is New Zealand's second-largest airport with direct connections to Australia (Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Gold Coast), Singapore, and Fiji. For the South Island, CHC is the ideal starting point. Transfer:

• Bus (Purple Line 29): 8.50 NZD, 25 minutes to the CBD. Stop directly in front of the terminal.
• Super Shuttle: from 25 NZD (shared), door-to-door service.
• Uber/Ola: 25–40 NZD to the CBD.
• Rental car: All major providers at the airport. CAUTION: Left-hand traffic directly from the airport — the first intersection is the most challenging.

How long to stay?

Minimum 1.5 days: Cardboard Cathedral + Earthquake Memorial + Botanic Gardens + a restaurant. Ideal 3 days: Plus Akaroa (day trip), TranzAlpine or Arthur's Pass. Christchurch is not a place to "check off" — the story of the rebuild and the new creative scene need time to resonate.

Accommodation

• € Budget: Jailhouse Accommodation (338 Lincoln Road, from 32 NZD dorm — a converted prison, the cells are now rooms, quirky experience). YHA Christchurch (36 Hereford Street, dorm from 35 NZD, top location).
• €€ Mid-range: The Classic Villa (17 Worcester Blvd, from 160 NZD — Victorian villa that survived the earthquake). Jucy Snooze (Corner of Tuam & Madras, from 85 NZD — modern capsule hotel concept).
• €€€ Upscale: The George (50 Park Terrace, from 280 NZD — boutique hotel at Hagley Park with views of the Avon River, excellent restaurant "50 Bistro"). Otahuna Lodge (30 min. south, from 750 NZD — historic manor house, pure luxury, own garden supplying the kitchen).

Day Trips from Christchurch