Seafood & Fish Cuisine

With over 800 km of Atlantic coastline, Portugal is a paradise for fish lovers. The Portuguese eat more fish per capita than any other nation in Europe—about 60 kg per year (Germany: about 14 kg). Fish is not a luxury, but a daily staple.

Sardines—The Summer Fish

From June to October, everything revolves around Sardinhas Assadas—grilled sardines, best on a small charcoal grill in front of the house or restaurant. The smell of grilled sardines is the scent of summer in Portugal. On June 13th (Santo António), all of Lisbon smells like it. Sardines are grilled whole, served on a slice of bread (which absorbs the juice), and eaten with fingers. Accompanied by potatoes, grilled peppers, and a glass of Vinho Verde.

Other Specialties

• Arroz de Marisco—creamy seafood rice with shrimp, clams, and lobsters, Portugal's answer to Spanish paella (but juicier and more flavorful)
• Cataplana—a copper pot dish from the Algarve: clams, shrimp, Chouriço, and potatoes, cooked in a closed vessel. Opening it at the table is a little ritual
• Polvo à Lagareiro—oven-baked octopus with olive oil and roasted potatoes, a feast
• Caldeirada—fish stew with various fish types, potatoes, and tomatoes, different in every region
• Percebes (goose barnacles)—an expensive delicacy harvested at great risk on the cliffs of the west coast. Looks strange, tastes like pure sea
• Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato—clams in garlic, coriander, and white wine, a perfect starter

Where to Eat Best

The best fish restaurants are often unpretentious: plastic chairs, paper napkins, no website—but fresh fish that was still in the sea in the morning. In Sesimbra, Setúbal, Peniche, and the Algarve, you will find the best addresses. Rule of thumb: Where many locals sit and the fish is ordered by weight (ao quilo), you're in the right place.