Food & Drink

Bacalhau (dried, salted cod) is not just a dish—it's a national treasure. The Portuguese say there are 365 recipes, one for each day of the year. In truth, there are far more. No Christmas dinner without Bacalhau, no holiday, no family celebration.

The curious thing: Cod does not occur in Portuguese waters. Since the 15th century, Portuguese fishermen have traveled as far as Newfoundland (Canada) and later to Norway and Iceland to catch the fish. The "Bacalhoeiros" (cod fleet) was active until the 1970s—one of the toughest and most dangerous jobs in the world, spending months on the North Atlantic.

The most important preparation methods:

• Bacalhau à Brás—shredded Bacalhau with straw potatoes and egg, Lisbon's signature dish
• Bacalhau com Natas—baked with cream, a creamy casserole
• Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá—from Porto, with potatoes, onions, olives, and hard-boiled egg
• Bacalhau à Lagareiro—oven-baked with plenty of olive oil and garlic, simple and perfect
• Pastéis de Bacalhau—fried croquettes, Portugal's most popular snack
• Bacalhau da Consoada—the traditional Christmas dish: boiled Bacalhau with potatoes, cabbage, and carrots, drizzled with olive oil

When shopping in the supermarket or at the market, you can recognize good Bacalhau by its light, even color and firm texture. It must be soaked for at least 24 hours (changing the water several times) before it can be prepared. In restaurants, of course, you don't have to worry about that.

They are small, round, caramelized, and absolutely addictive: Pastéis de Nata (singular: Pastel de Nata) are Portugal's most famous pastry and one of the main reasons travelers abandon their calorie budget in Portugal.

The story begins in the Monastery of Jerónimos in Belém. The monks used egg whites to starch their clothing—and had to find a use for the leftover yolks. Thus, the Pastéis de Belém were born. After the dissolution of the monasteries in 1834, the monks sold the recipe to a sugar bakery next to the monastery—the Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém, which has been producing continuously since 1837. The original recipe is still a secret; only three people know it at any given time.

What makes a perfect Pastel de Nata: The puff pastry shell must be crispy and layered, the custard filling made from egg yolk, sugar, milk, and a hint of lemon zest should be creamy and slightly caramelized (the dark scorch marks on the surface are intentional—they occur at over 400 °C in the oven). It is eaten warm, dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar.

The Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém produces over 20,000 pieces daily. The queue in front of the shop is legendary, but it moves quickly. But beware: There are excellent Pastéis de Nata all over Portugal—the fixation on Belém is a tourist phenomenon. Locals swear by their favorite pastelaria in their own neighborhood, which are often just as good. In Porto, Manteigaria (Rua de Santa Catarina) is a hot tip.

With over 800 km of Atlantic coastline, Portugal is a paradise for fish lovers. The Portuguese eat more fish per capita than any other nation in Europe—about 60 kg per year (Germany: about 14 kg). Fish is not a luxury, but a daily staple.

Sardines—The Summer Fish

From June to October, everything revolves around Sardinhas Assadas—grilled sardines, best on a small charcoal grill in front of the house or restaurant. The smell of grilled sardines is the scent of summer in Portugal. On June 13th (Santo António), all of Lisbon smells like it. Sardines are grilled whole, served on a slice of bread (which absorbs the juice), and eaten with fingers. Accompanied by potatoes, grilled peppers, and a glass of Vinho Verde.

Other Specialties

• Arroz de Marisco—creamy seafood rice with shrimp, clams, and lobsters, Portugal's answer to Spanish paella (but juicier and more flavorful)
• Cataplana—a copper pot dish from the Algarve: clams, shrimp, Chouriço, and potatoes, cooked in a closed vessel. Opening it at the table is a little ritual
• Polvo à Lagareiro—oven-baked octopus with olive oil and roasted potatoes, a feast
• Caldeirada—fish stew with various fish types, potatoes, and tomatoes, different in every region
• Percebes (goose barnacles)—an expensive delicacy harvested at great risk on the cliffs of the west coast. Looks strange, tastes like pure sea
• Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato—clams in garlic, coriander, and white wine, a perfect starter

Where to Eat Best

The best fish restaurants are often unpretentious: plastic chairs, paper napkins, no website—but fresh fish that was still in the sea in the morning. In Sesimbra, Setúbal, Peniche, and the Algarve, you will find the best addresses. Rule of thumb: Where many locals sit and the fish is ordered by weight (ao quilo), you're in the right place.

Portugal is a world-class wine country—with a vineyard area that is among the largest in Europe and a wine culture that dates back over 2,000 years. Two wines are inextricably linked to the country.

Port Wine

The Vinho do Porto is Portugal's most famous export and one of the great wines of the world. It is grown in the Douro Valley—a spectacular, UNESCO-protected terraced landscape that stretches 100 km along the river. The steep slate slopes (some over 60 degrees) have been transformed into terraces by hand over centuries.

The peculiarity: Fermentation is stopped by adding brandy (Aguardente), preserving the natural sugar. The result is a sweet, strong wine with 19–22% alcohol. The main styles:

• Ruby—young, fruity, the entry-level. Affordable and good as a dessert or aperitif wine
• Tawny—aged in barrels (10, 20, 30, or 40 years), amber-colored, with aromas of caramel, nuts, and dried fruits. A 20-Year-Old Tawny is the perfect Port wine for many
• Vintage Port—a Port wine from a single vintage, but less elaborate than Vintage
• Vintage—declared only in outstanding vintages, a Port wine for eternity (and the budget)
• White Port—made from white grapes, served as an aperitif with tonic water and a sprig of mint (Porto Tónico)

The major Port wine houses (Caves) are located in Vila Nova de Gaia, directly opposite Porto on the south bank of the Douro: Taylor's, Graham's, Sandeman, Ramos Pinto, and many more. Tours with tastings cost 15–25 € and are a must-do in Porto.

Vinho Verde

Vinho Verde (literally: "green wine") comes from the Minho in northern Portugal and is not green, but a young, fresh wine—slightly sparkling, acidic, with a low alcohol content (8–11%). It is the perfect summer wine and the ideal companion to fish and seafood. Vinho Verde is available in white (most common), rosé, and red. The best come from the Alvarinho grape variety from the Monção/Melgaço region near the Spanish border.

Ginjinha (or Ginja) is Lisbon's signature drink: a sour cherry liqueur that has been served in small bars in the Rossio district since 1840. The liqueur is made from Ginja cherries (a type of sour cherry) that are steeped for months in Aguardente (brandy) with sugar and cinnamon.

Traditionally, Ginjinha is drunk at a standing counter—a small cup for 1.50–2 €—with one crucial question: "Com elas ou sem elas?" (With them or without them?) Referring to the pickled cherries at the bottom of the cup. The correct answer: "Com elas"—the alcohol-soaked cherries are the best part.

The most famous Ginjinha bars in Lisbon are A Ginjinha (since 1840, at Largo de São Domingos) and Ginjinha Sem Rival (directly opposite). Ginjinha is also famous in Óbidos—there it is served in chocolate cups that you eat after drinking.

Other Portuguese Drinks

• Aguardente de Medronho—brandy made from strawberry tree fruits, especially in the Algarve and Alentejo. Often homemade and with 40–50% alcohol, not to be underestimated
• Licor Beirão—the best-selling liqueur in Portugal, herb-based, from the Beiras region. Enjoyed neat, on ice, or as a cocktail
• Poncha—the national drink of Madeira: Aguardente de Cana (sugarcane brandy), fresh lemon juice, honey, and orange juice. It tastes harmless but packs a punch
• Imperial/Fino—a small draft beer. In Lisbon, it's called "uma imperial," in Porto "um fino." The brands Super Bock (Porto) and Sagres (Lisbon) share the market and the hearts of the Portuguese—the loyalty is almost as strong as in football
• Coffee—a Bica (espresso) in Lisbon or Cimbalino in Porto. Small, strong, affordable (0.70–1 €). Never order "a coffee"—it doesn't exist. You want a Bica. Or a Galão (milk coffee in a glass) for breakfast

Portugal's cuisine is as diverse as its landscapes. Each region has its own dishes that reflect the terroir and history.

North (Porto, Minho, Trás-os-Montes)

• Francesinha—Porto's infamous sandwich: ham, Linguiça, Chouriço, and steak between two slices of toast, topped with cheese and drizzled with a spicy beer-tomato sauce. Served with fries. Not diet food, but an experience
• Tripas à Moda do Porto—tripe with white beans, the dish that gave Porto residents their nickname "Tripeiros" (tripe eaters)
• Caldo Verde—the national soup: potato cream with finely chopped kale and a slice of Chouriço. Simple and perfect
• Cozido à Portuguesa—the grand stew with various meats, sausages, cabbage, potatoes, carrots, and rice. A feast for the whole family

Center (Lisbon, Estremadura, Beiras)

• Leitão da Bairrada—suckling pig from the Bairrada region (near Coimbra), crispy grilled over charcoal, with orange slices and spicy sauce. One of the best pork dishes in the world
• Queijo da Serra da Estrela—the king of Portuguese cheeses: a creamy sheep's cheese so soft that you cut the top and eat it with a spoon
• Chanfana—kid or old sheep, stewed for hours in red wine, from the Coimbra region

Alentejo

• Migas—"crumbs" made from bread, garlic, and olive oil, served with pork or asparagus. Poor man's food turned delicacy
• Açorda Alentejana—bread soup with coriander, garlic, olive oil, and poached egg. Minimalism in perfection
• Porco Preto—Black Iberian pig, fed on cork acorns. The meat is marbled and incredibly flavorful

Algarve

• Cataplana de Marisco—seafood in a copper pot (see above)
• Dom Rodrigo and Morgado—almond and fig confections, the Moorish heritage of the Algarve in sweet form

Dining out in Portugal follows its own rules, which differ from German habits. Knowing them means eating better and cheaper.

The Couvert Trap

In almost every restaurant, you are served bread, butter, olives, and sometimes cheese or cold cuts without asking. This is the Couvert—and it is not free. It typically costs 1–5 € per person and appears on the bill. If you don't want it, you can have it taken back and won't be charged. Many tourists don't know this and are annoyed by the "hidden costs."

Meal Times

Portuguese people eat late (but not as late as Spaniards):

• Lunch (Almoço): 12:30–14:30—the main meal of the day. Many restaurants offer a Prato do Dia (daily dish) or a Menu do Dia (menu of the day) for 7–12 €—often with soup, main course, drink, and coffee. An unbeatable value
• Dinner (Jantar): 19:30–22:00. Before 19:30, only tourists are in the restaurant

Portion Sizes

Portuguese portions are huge. On many menus, there is a Meia-Dose (half portion) alongside the normal portion (Dose), which is sufficient for most people. Meia-Dose is not a sign of stinginess, but completely normal—even locals order this way. You can also share a dish between two people and order a side dish.

Paying

The bill never comes unprompted—this is considered rude. You must actively ask for the bill: "A conta, se faz favor" or a discreet hand signal. Credit cards are accepted in most restaurants, but in small Tascas (pubs) and in the countryside, cash is recommended.

Tipping

Tipping in Portugal is not mandatory, but customary: 5–10% if satisfied. In simple restaurants, you round up or leave a few coins. In upscale restaurants, 10% is appropriate. Tips are left in cash on the table, not added to the credit card bill.