Cagliari & the South

Cagliari (Sardinian: Casteddu) is a city that reveals its true nature upon a second glance — and then never lets go. The capital of Sardinia (150,000 inhabitants) stretches over seven hills along the Gulf of Cagliari, combining 3,000 years of history with a modern, vibrant city life that pleasantly distinguishes itself from the tourist monoculture of other Mediterranean capitals.

The heart is the Castello district (also Casteddu 'e Susu, "upper fortress") — the medieval upper town, surrounded by Pisan fortress walls from the 13th century. Here stands the Cattedrale di Santa Maria (13th century, Romanesque-Pisan, with a magnificent Baroque facade), flanked by the two towers Torre di San Pancrazio and Torre dell'Elefante. From the Bastione di Saint Remy — a monumental terrace on the old city walls — there is a breathtaking panorama over the city, the harbor, the lagoons, and the mountains in the hinterland.

Below the Castello stretches the Marina, the former fishing quarter, now with small restaurants, wine bars, and the lively Mercato di San Benedetto — Italy's largest covered market after the Florentine hall. On two floors, you find fish, meat, cheese, fruits, and Sardinian specialties in abundance and freshness that make any foodie's heart beat faster. In the Stampace district lie the early Christian necropolis of Tuvixeddu (the largest Phoenician necropolis in the Mediterranean) and cozy trattorias off the tourist paths.

Cagliari's surprise: the flamingos. In the Molentargius lagoon, right on the city's edge, thousands of pink flamingos live year-round — a surreal image against the city backdrop. The lagoon is a Natura 2000 protected area and can be circled by bike or on foot. And then there's the Spiaggia del Poetto: eight kilometers of fine sandy beach, right by the city, with a view of the distinctive rock Sella del Diavolo (Devil's Saddle). In summer, the beach life pulses here until late at night.

The Nuraghe Su Nuraxi in Barumini is Sardinia's most important archaeological monument and has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997. The massive tower complex from the Bronze Age (around 1500 BC) is the best-preserved and most impressive of the over 7,000 nuraghes on the island — and one of the most fascinating mysteries of European prehistory.

The complex consists of a central tower (originally over 18 meters high, now still 14.1 m) and four corner towers, connected by massive basalt walls. Around the central complex stretches a village of dozens of round huts — here lived a community of several hundred people. The construction is astonishing: massive basalt blocks were stacked into corbel vaults without mortar, only through precise stonemasonry, which have endured for 3,500 years. The Nuragic civilization had no writing, no known name, and left no written records — their architecture speaks for itself.

The visit is only possible with a guided tour (every 30 min., about 45 min., also in English). The guides are excellent and bring the stones to life. The neighboring Centro Giovanni Lilliu complements the visit with a modern museum that vividly explains the Nuragic culture — from the famous bronzetti (small bronze figures of warriors, priests, and animals) to the trade relations with Phoenicians and Mycenaeans.

Barumini itself is a sleepy village in the Marmilla hill landscape, about 60 km north of Cagliari. In the vicinity are more nuraghes (Nuraghe Arrubiu near Orroli — the largest on the island with 5 towers) and the fascinating Giara di Gesturi: a basalt plateau where the last wild horses of Sardinia (Cavallini della Giara) live in freedom. In spring, the Giara is a sea of flowers with temporary lakes — a magical place.

The Costa del Sud (South Coast) is Sardinia's counterpoint to the Costa Smeralda: instead of glamour and yachts, you find wild, secluded bays, turquoise water, fragrant maquis, and a handful of small seaside resorts that have retained their charm. The coast between Chia and Teulada is among the most beautiful and unspoiled sections of the entire island.

Chia is the star of the south coast: several bays with powdery white sand, crystal-clear water, and the remains of a Spanish watchtower (Torre di Chia) on a headland create a postcard setting. The Spiaggia Su Giudeu is the most famous beach — a sand island offshore that can be waded to at low tide. Behind it lies a lagoon where flamingos nest. The Cala Cipolla next door is smaller and more intimate, framed by junipers and pines.

Further west, the coast becomes wilder: Tuerredda is a crescent-shaped bay with unreal turquoise water, often listed as one of Italy's most beautiful beaches. The offshore Isola di Tuerredda is accessible by canoe or swimming. From here, the coastal road SP71 becomes a panoramic route: it winds through maquis and pine forest, past secluded bays and military areas (Capo Teulada — closed, but the beaches before it are accessible), all the way to Sant'Anna Arresi.

East of Cagliari, the Costa Rei beckons with a ten-kilometer-long sandy beach and the photogenic rock needle Scoglio di Peppino. The coast here is more family-friendly and less wild than the southwest, but the water is just as clear, and the beaches are spacious enough to find a quiet spot even in summer.

Nora, 35 km southwest of Cagliari, is the oldest city in Sardinia — founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC and later expanded by Carthaginians and Romans. The excavation site is spectacularly located on a headland surrounded by the sea on three sides. The remains include a Roman theater (the only one in Sardinia, still used for performances today), mosaics, baths, a temple, and parts of the Phoenician tophet (sanctuary). The famous Stele of Nora was found in front of Nora — the oldest Phoenician inscription in the western Mediterranean, mentioning the name "Sardinia" (SRDN) for the first time.

The Lagoon of Nora (Laguna di Nora) is an environmental education center offering guided kayak tours, snorkeling experiences, and tours through the wetland with flamingos, cormorants, and egrets — ideal for families. The Beach of Nora right next to the excavation is small but picturesque, with views of the ruins and the Norman tower.

Sant'Antioco, Italy's fourth-largest island, is connected to the Sardinian mainland by a Roman bridge — the oldest still-used bridge in the Mediterranean. The town of the same name has an atmospheric harbor, the early Christian basilica with catacombs (5th–6th century), and the fascinating Museo Etnografico, documenting the traditional lifestyle of fishermen and weavers. In the south of the island lies the Spiaggia di Cala Lunga — a dreamy beach with fine sand and turquoise water, surprisingly quiet even in August.

The neighboring Isola di San Pietro (reachable by ferry from Calasetta, 30 min., 5€) is a culinary insider tip: the inhabitants descend from Ligurian coral fishermen from Tabarka (Tunisia) and speak their own dialect (Tabarchino). In Carloforte, the island's only town, everything revolves around tuna fishing — the Mattanza (ritual tuna fishing) takes place every May/June, and the fresh Tonno di Carloforte is a delicacy. In addition, there are wild coastal landscapes, secluded bays, and an atmosphere that resembles a Ligurian fishing village more than Sardinia.