Alghero, Bosa & the West

Alghero is unique in Sardinia — and in all of Italy. The city on the northwest coast was colonized by the Catalans in the 14th century and has retained its Catalan character to this day. In the old town, you can still hear Algherese (a Catalan dialect), street signs are bilingual, and the architecture with its Gothic windows and wrought-iron balconies is more reminiscent of Barcelona than Cagliari.

The old town (Città Vecchia) is a fortress on a peninsula, surrounded by mighty city walls and seven towers, perched directly above the sea. The Bastioni (city walls) form one of Sardinia's most beautiful promenades — here you stroll at sunset above the sea, past the towers Torre di San Giovanni and Torre della Polveriera, with a view of Capo Caccia on the horizon. In the alleys behind, you find Gothic churches (the Cattedrale di Santa Maria with its octagonal bell tower), coral shops (Alghero is the "Coral City" — the red coral of Capo Caccia has been crafted into jewelry for centuries), wine bars, and fish restaurants.

The Riviera del Corallo (Coral Coast) stretches north and south of Alghero: Long sandy beaches like the Lido di Alghero and the Spiaggia di Maria Pia (a pine grove directly on the fine sand) are just a few minutes' walk from the center. The bays north of the city (Mugoni, Lazzaretto) offer clear water and are less crowded. Alghero is also an excellent diving spot — the underwater caves at Capo Caccia and the red coral reefs are popular with divers from all over Europe.

In the hinterland of Alghero lies the Nekropole von Anghelu Ruju — one of the largest prehistoric burial sites in the Mediterranean with 38 rock-cut tombs (Domus de Janas, "Fairy Houses") from the Neolithic period (3300–2700 BC). And just 20 minutes away is the Nuraghe Palmavera — a well-preserved Bronze Age settlement with a round tower and meeting hut.

The Grotta di Nettuno (Neptune's Grotto) at Capo Caccia is one of the most spectacular stalactite caves in the entire Mediterranean and Sardinia's most visited natural attraction. The vast cave extends over four kilometers into the interior of the cliff (about 200 meters are accessible) and houses an underground salt lake (Lago La Marmora), massive stalactites and stalagmites, and limestone formations that resemble the columns of a Gothic cathedral.

The cave is accessible by two routes — and both are an experience in themselves. By boat from Alghero (about 25 min., 16€ round trip + 13€ entrance) you travel along the rugged coast of Capo Caccia, past cliffs, sea caves, and wilderness, to the cave entrance at sea level. On foot via the famous Escala del Cabirol (Staircase of the Roe Deer): 654 steps carved into the rock lead down the cliff of Capo Caccia 110 meters to the cave entrance. The descent is spectacular — the ascent strenuous, but with unforgettable views over the coast.

Inside the cave, the organ pipe stalactites, the huge column "Acquasantiera" (Holy Water Font), halls with names like "Salone delle Rovine" and "Tribuna della Musica", and the silent, dark green lake, whose surface reflects the stalactites, are impressive. The temperature in the cave is a constant 16°C — bring a jacket! The tour lasts about 35 minutes and is available in Italian and English.

The Capo Caccia itself is a nature reserve of wild beauty: 168-meter-high cliffs, griffon vultures (one of the few breeding sites in Italy), macchia, and a lighthouse at the end of the road. The drive from Alghero to the Capo (25 km) is already a panoramic route through pine forest and olive groves.

Bosa is one of the most picturesque small towns in Sardinia — and the entire Mediterranean. On the banks of the Fiume Temo (Sardinia's only navigable river), pastel-colored houses in pink, ochre, sky blue, and lavender cling to a hill, overlooked by Malaspina Castle (12th century, named after the Tuscan noble family). The image of Bosa — the river, the colorful houses, the castle above — is one of the most iconic in Sardinia.

The old town (Sa Costa) consists of steep, winding alleys that climb the hill to the castle. Here, centuries-old stone houses stand, blooming bougainvillea hangs over balconies, and cats sun themselves on warm steps. In Malaspina Castle, you find the remains of a Gothic chapel (Nostra Signora de Sos Regnos Altos) with rare 14th-century frescoes. From the battlements, there is a panorama over the rooftops, the river, and the mountains in the hinterland.

Along the riverbank are the Sas Conzas — former tanneries from the 18th/19th century, now partly converted into art galleries and cultural centers. Bosa is also known for its Malvasia di Bosa — an amber-colored dessert wine, aged in chestnut barrels by traditional methods, and considered one of Italy's best sweet wines. A tasting in one of the small cellars is part of the Bosa experience.

The coastal road from Alghero to Bosa (SP105, 45 km) is one of the most spectacular coastal roads in Sardinia: It winds over cliffs, through macchia, and past secluded bays, with the deep blue sea 100 meters below you. The beach Bosa Marina at the river mouth is wide, sandy, and family-friendly, with an old island church (Isola Rossa) at the southern end.

The Sinis Peninsula west of Oristano is one of Sardinia's best-kept secrets: a flat, wind-swept landscape of dunes, lagoons, and rice fields, reminiscent of the Camargue. Here, archaeology, nature, and geological wonders meet — and the tourist crowds stay away.

Tharros is one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in Sardinia: The Phoenician-Roman city (8th century BC–11th century AD) is located on a narrow promontory overlooking the sea on both sides. The remains include Phoenician temple complexes, Roman baths with mosaics, streets, cisterns, and columns — all against the backdrop of the deep blue sea and the Spanish watchtower Torre di San Giovanni on the hill above. At sunset, when the stones glow golden and the sea shimmers silver, Tharros is one of the most atmospheric archaeological sites in the Mediterranean.

The Spiaggia di Is Arutas is a geological wonder: Instead of sand, the beach is made up of tiny quartz grains in white, pink, green, and amber — smooth, luminous, and unique in Europe. The water is crystal clear and the bay framed by wind-swept rocks. Note: Taking the quartz grains is strictly prohibited (up to 3,000€ fine!) — the stocks have already suffered from souvenir collectors. Nearby is the Spiaggia di Maimoni with a similar quartz beach, but even less visited.

The Stagno di Cabras (Lagoon of Cabras) is one of Sardinia's most important wetlands: Flamingos, egrets, and hundreds of migratory bird species rest here. The town of Cabras houses the Museo Civico with the sensational Giants of Mont'e Prama — life-sized sandstone figures (2.5 m high) from the 9th–8th century BC, accidentally discovered in 1974 and representing the oldest large-format stone sculptures in the Mediterranean. The restored warriors, archers, and boxers are an archaeological sensation and worth the trip to Cabras alone.