KwaZulu-Natal

KwaZulu-Natal (short KZN) is located on the east coast of South Africa and is named after the Zulu nation and the Portuguese designation for the coast (Terra do Natal — "Christmas land," because Vasco da Gama reached it on Christmas 1497). The province offers a unique mix:

• Durban: South Africa's third-largest city with the warmest sea water, the largest Indian community outside of India, and an explosive curry scene
• Drakensberg: The "roof of South Africa" with 3,000 m high peaks, dramatic hikes, and ancient San rock paintings (UNESCO)
• iSimangaliso Wetland Park: South Africa's first UNESCO World Heritage Site — lakes, swamps, coral reefs, hippos, and crocodiles
• Hluhluwe-Imfolozi: Africa's oldest game reserve and the cradle of rhino conservation
• Battlefields: Where Zulu, Boers, and British fought the bloodiest battles in South African history

KZN is often underestimated — unfairly. For those who want to experience South Africa beyond Cape Town and Kruger, this is the right place. Plan 5–7 days for the highlights.

Durban (Zulu: eThekwini) is South Africa's third-largest city and the antithesis of Cape Town: less glamorous, but rougher, more genuine, warmer. The water temperature here rarely drops below 20°C even in winter — Durban has the warmest city beach in South Africa.

Highlights

• Golden Mile: The 6 km long beachfront promenade from uShaka Beach to Blue Lagoon. Surfers, joggers, fishermen, and rickshaw drivers (the colorfully decorated rickshaw runners in Zulu costumes). Safe and lively.
• Victoria Street Market: The huge Indian market in the heart of the city. Spices, textiles, leather goods, and the best Bunny Chow in town (see Food). Haggling is a must!
• uShaka Marine World: Ocean-themed park with one of the largest aquariums in the Southern Hemisphere, water park, and restaurants. 220 ZAR (€11).
• Moses Mabhida Stadium: The 2010 World Cup stadium with the iconic arch. You can take a cable car to the 106 m high arch (60 ZAR) — or do the Big Rush Big Swing: the world's largest swing (80 m drop!). 750 ZAR.
• Durban Botanic Gardens: Africa's oldest botanical gardens (est. 1849). Orchid house, palm grove, perfect for a quiet stroll. Free.

Food in Durban

Durban has the best Indian cuisine in South Africa — and perhaps the best outside of India. The Indian community (about 1 million people) brought their culinary traditions with them starting in 1860.

• Bunny Chow: THE Durban dish. A hollowed-out white bread filled with curry (lamb, beans, or chicken). Messy, delicious, unique. Best at Hollywood Bets Bunny Bar or Britannia Hotel.
• Durban Curry: Spicier and more aromatic than the Indian standard. The best restaurants: Little Gujarat (vegetarian, Grey Street) and Oyster Box Hotel (upscale curry buffet in Umhlanga).

The Drakensberg Mountains (Afrikaans: Drakensberg = "Dragon Mountains," Zulu: uKhahlamba = "Barrier of Spears") are South Africa's mightiest mountain range and have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000 — both for their natural beauty and for the over 35,000 San rock paintings, which are among the oldest artworks of humanity.

The Three Zones

• Northern Drakensberg: The Royal Natal National Park with the Amphitheatre — a 5 km wide, 500 m high rock wall, one of the most spectacular natural formations on earth. Here, the Tugela Falls plunge 948 m — the second-highest waterfall in the world after Angel Falls in Venezuela.
• Central Drakensberg: Giant's Castle Game Reserve with excellent San rock paintings and the Lammergeier Hide — a hide from which you can observe the extremely rare bearded vulture.
• Southern Drakensberg: Sani Pass — the legendary pass road (4x4 only!) to Lesotho. At the top: the Sani Mountain Lodge, the highest pub in Africa (2,874 m). A beer with a view over the cliff — priceless.

Hiking

The iSimangaliso Wetland Park (formerly Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park) on the north coast of KwaZulu-Natal was South Africa's first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. The name means "miracle and wonder" in Zulu — and that's exactly what it is.

On 332,000 hectares, the park combines five different ecosystems: coral reefs, beaches, lakes, swamps, and dry coastal forests. The biodiversity is extraordinary.

Highlights

• St. Lucia Estuary: The largest estuary in Africa. Boat tours to hippos and crocodiles — you get closer to them here than anywhere else. 350 ZAR (€18). Evening tours at sunset are particularly beautiful.
• Cape Vidal: Remote beach with dune forest. Snorkeling in natural rock pools, turtle nesting sites (Nov–Feb). Camping possible.
• Kosi Bay: In the far north — a system of four interconnected lakes with traditional Thonga fish traps, used unchanged for centuries. Snorkeling in the estuary with tropical fish.
• Sodwana Bay: South Africa's best diving and snorkeling area. Tropical coral reefs, whale sharks (Nov–March), dolphins, manta rays. The southernmost coral reefs in Africa.
• Turtle Season (Nov–March): Leatherback and loggerhead turtles lay their eggs on the beaches. Guided night tours available — an unforgettable experience.

The Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve (pronounced: "Schlu-schlu-weh") is Africa's oldest game reserve (est. 1895) and the cradle of one of the greatest conservation success stories: In the 1960s, the white rhino was nearly extinct — only 200 animals existed worldwide, almost all here. Through the breeding program "Operation Rhino," thousands of rhinos were saved and relocated to parks worldwide.

Safari Experience

• Big Five: All five can be found here — rhinos (both white and black!) are particularly common
• Self-drive possible: Well-maintained roads, significantly fewer visitors than in Kruger
• Guided bush walks: The reserve offers multi-day Wilderness Trails — on foot through the bush with an armed ranger. 4 days/3 nights from 4,500 ZAR (€225). An intense, primal safari experience.
• Hilltop Camp: The park's main camp, on a hill with panoramic views over the rolling wilderness. Restaurant, pool, bar. From 1,200 ZAR/night.

Entrance: 270 ZAR (€14) adults.

In the hinterland of KwaZulu-Natal, between Ladysmith and Dundee, lie the Battlefields — battlefields that tell of the most dramatic conflicts in South African history. For history enthusiasts, this region is fascinating.

Main Battlefields

• Isandlwana (1879): On January 22, 1879, a 20,000-strong Zulu army defeated the British colonial troops in one of the most devastating defeats in British military history. 1,300 British and colonial soldiers fell. The battlefield is now a silent, moving memorial with white stone cairns marking the fallen.
• Rorke's Drift (1879): Just hours after Isandlwana, 150 British soldiers defended a mission station against 3,000–4,000 Zulu warriors — and held their ground. 11 Victoria Crosses were awarded, more than in any other battle. Immortalized in the film "Zulu" (1964) with Michael Caine.
• Blood River / Ncome (1838): 464 Voortrekkers defeated a Zulu army. A key moment in Boer history, a tragedy for the Zulu. Two museums tell both sides.
• Spioenkop (1900): One of the most brutal battles of the Boer War. Mahatma Gandhi served here as a medic, Winston Churchill was on site as a war correspondent.

Practical Information

A local guide is almost indispensable — the battlefields do not reveal themselves on their own. The best guides in the region: Rob Sobukwe and Pat Sobukwe. Full-day tours from 1,500 ZAR (€75) per group. The Battlefields are about 3–4 hours' drive northwest of Durban.