Santa Cruz & La Laguna

Santa Cruz de Tenerife is the capital of the island and the province — and a city that tourists criminally ignore. While the masses flock to the south, Santa Cruz has quietly developed into the most exciting city in the Canary Islands: a futuristic concert hall, shady plazas, a lively harbor district, and restaurants that can compete with the best gastro in Spain.

Sights

• Auditorio de Tenerife: Santiago Calatrava's masterpiece (2003) is one of the most iconic buildings in Spain: a curved white concrete shell rising like a wave from the Atlantic. The architecture is reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House — and stands up to any comparison. Concerts, opera, dance. Tours: €6. From the outside: free and photographable at any time.
• Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África: The market hall (1944) in Moorish-inspired style is the culinary heart of the city: fresh fish, tropical fruits, cheese, flowers, and spices. In the basement: the "Rastro" (flea market) on Sunday mornings. This is where the locals have breakfast.
• Museo de la Naturaleza y Arqueología (MUNA): The most important museum in the Canary Islands houses Guanches mummies and artifacts of the indigenous people. The Guanches' mummification technique was on par with the Egyptian — fascinating and unique. Entrance: €5.
• Parque García Sanabria: The most beautiful city park in the Canary Islands: 67,000 m² with tropical plants, sculptures (open-air art exhibition!), a flower clock, and shady paths. Free and perfect for a lunch break.
• Plaza de España: The central square with the large water basin (designed by architects Herzog & de Meuron) and the Monumento a los Caídos. Starting point for city tours.
• Calle del Castillo: The main shopping street — a wide pedestrian zone with shops, cafes, and street performers. Thanks to the low IGIC tax: affordable shopping for perfume, electronics, and fashion.

The Carnaval de Santa Cruz de Tenerife is officially the second-largest carnival in the world after Rio de Janeiro — and some claim it is the better one. Since 1980, it has been recognized as a "Fiesta of International Tourist Interest," and every year in February/March, the capital transforms for two to three weeks into a tropical frenzy of music, dance, costumes, and joie de vivre.

Carnival Highlights

• Gala for the Election of the Carnival Queen: The opening gala is a spectacle like no other: dozens of candidates wear costumes weighing up to 200 kg and several meters high — architectural marvels of feathers, sequins, and fabric. The show at the Auditorio is broadcast live on television.
• Murgas & Comparsas: Music groups (Murgas) write new satirical songs about politics and society every year. The Comparsas are dance groups with Brazilian-inspired choreographies and costumes.
• Coso (Grand Parade): The highlight — a kilometer-long procession with floats, dancers, music groups, and thousands of costumed spectators. The atmosphere is indescribable.
• Entierro de la Sardina (Burial of the Sardine): The legendary finale: a giant papier-mâché sardine is carried through the streets and "buried" (burned) at the harbor. The mourners? Thousands of men in drag, who "cry" and "lament." One of Spain's craziest customs — and a statement for tolerance and humor.

Practical Information

The carnival takes place every year in February or March (depending on the Easter date). The main week is the week before Ash Wednesday. Hotels and flights are significantly more expensive and booked early during this time — reserve at least 3 months in advance. The carnival is free — the street parties, concerts, and the Coso are freely accessible. Only the Carnival Queen's gala has an entrance fee (from €20).

San Cristóbal de La Laguna — briefly "La Laguna" — is the old capital of Tenerife (until 1723) and has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999. The city was founded in 1496 as the first unfortified colonial city of Spain — its street grid served as a blueprint for the cities of Latin America: Havana, Lima, Cartagena, and many others were modeled after La Laguna.

Highlights

• The Old Town: A living museum of colonial architecture: colorful facades in ochre yellow, terracotta, and pastel blue, carved wooden balconies, courtyards with fountains and palm trees. Calle San Agustín and Calle Obispo Rey Redondo are the most splendid streets — every house tells a story.
• Catedral de La Laguna: The cathedral (1913, neoclassical) houses the remains of the conqueror Alonso Fernández de Lugo, who conquered Tenerife for the Spanish crown in 1496. The facade is impressive, the interior simple and elegant.
• Iglesia de la Concepción: The oldest church in Tenerife (1511) with a distinctive tower that dominates the cityscape. From the tower: panoramic view over the old town and the Teide in the background.
• Universidad de La Laguna: The oldest and most important university in the Canary Islands (founded in 1701) makes La Laguna the liveliest city on the island. 25,000 students ensure full bars, affordable tapas places, and a cultural diversity that the touristy south lacks.
• Museo de la Historia de Tenerife: In the magnificent Casa Lercaro (16th century) — one of the most beautiful colonial houses — the history of Tenerife from the Guanches to today is told. Entrance: €5.

Food & Drink in La Laguna

La Laguna has the best bar and tapas scene in Tenerife — student-influenced, authentic, and affordable. Calle Heraclio Sánchez and the Quadrángulo are full of bars and restaurants:

• Tapas Bars: Small plates from €2.50. Patatas bravas, croquetas, pulpo a la gallega, papas arrugadas con mojo.
• Bodeguitas: Traditional wine bars with local wines from the north.
• Student Prices: Menú del día from €7, caña (small beer) from €1.20. La Laguna is the cheapest place to eat in Tenerife.