Khao San Road & Banglamphu

The Khao San Road is the most famous backpacker boulevard in the world — 400 meters of concentrated travel culture, about which Alex Garland wrote in "The Beach": "The Khao San Road is the center of the universe." Since the 1980s, this street in the Banglamphu district has been the starting point for Southeast Asia trips: Here, the freshly arrived backpacker meets the tanned returnee, here beer buckets are lifted, scorpion snacks are tried, and elephant pants are bought.

Yes, the Khao San Road is touristy to the max. Yes, the massage offers on the sidewalk are questionable. Yes, at midnight the noise level is hellish. But the street also has its genuine qualities: The guesthouses are cheap (double rooms with AC from 500 THB/~13€), the travel agencies offer competitive prices for onward travel, and the atmosphere is a unique cultural phenomenon — where else in the world do so many nationalities, age groups, and travel philosophies come together in such a small space?

The smarter travelers know: The real Banglamphu begins one street over. The Soi Rambuttri (parallel street) has the same infrastructure but a tenth of the noise, more charming cafés, and a more relaxed atmosphere. The Phra Athit Road by the river is the hipster heart of the district: small galleries, vintage cafés, bookstores, and the legendary rooftop restaurant "Sala Rattanakosin" with a view of Wat Arun. The Santichai Prakan Park by the riverside is the perfect place in the evening to escape the chaos and enjoy the sunset over the Chao Phraya.

Banglamphu is also a historic district with real Thai life. The Khlong Banglampu (canal), the small temples off the main streets, and the local noodle soup shops in the side streets show a Bangkok that most Khao San visitors never discover. Tip: The Roti Mataba on Phra Athit Road (Muslim-Thai pancakes with curry dip) has been an institution for over 70 years — and costs only 40 THB.