Northern Thailand

Chiang Mai was founded in 1296 by King Mengrai as the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, making it one of Thailand's oldest cities. The Old City is enclosed by a square moat and remnants of the medieval city wall — a compact area of about 1.5 × 1.5 kilometers, where over 30 Buddhist temples are crowded. You can hardly walk three minutes without encountering a golden chedi, a praying monk, or the scent of incense.

The most important temple in the Old City is Wat Chedi Luang, built from 1391 and once 82 meters high — the largest chedi ever erected in Northern Thailand. An earthquake in 1545 destroyed the upper half, but the remaining 60 meters are still monumental. In the temple complex stands the famous City Pillar (Säulen-Gummibaum), which the locals revere as the residence of the city spirit. Every Tuesday and Thursday evening, monks offer "Monk Chat" — a unique opportunity to talk with young monks about Buddhism, life in the monastery, and the modern world (in English!).

Just around the corner is Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai's most revered temple. The Viharn Lai Kham (chapel) from the 14th century houses the Phra Singh Buddha, one of the most significant Buddha figures in Northern Thailand. The murals inside are among the most beautiful of Lanna art: scenes from the life of Buddha and everyday life in ancient Lanna, in delicate gold tones on a red background. The temple is the center of the Songkran celebrations (Thai New Year, April 13-15), when the figure is carried in a procession through the city.

Other gems: Wat Chiang Man (the oldest temple in the city, 1296), supported by 15 stone elephants, houses the tiny crystal Buddha and the marble Buddha. Wat Umong, slightly outside the Old City, is a meditative wonder — a forest temple from the 14th century with tunnel-like passages, moss-covered stupas, and a lake full of turtles. Monks meditate here in caves, and the silence is almost palpable.

The rhythm of the Old City is leisurely: In the morning, monks in saffron robes collect alms (Tak Bat, from 6 AM — please only observe, do not photograph!), during the day there is a sleepy temple silence, and in the evening the quarter comes to life in the side streets with small restaurants, bars, and massage studios. The bicycle is the perfect means of transport: The Old City is flat, the distances short, and a rental bike costs 50-100 THB per day.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is Chiang Mai's most sacred shrine — a golden temple perched at 1,055 meters above the city, shining like a beacon over the valley in clear weather. Legend has it that a white elephant, burdened with a Buddha relic, climbed the mountain, trumpeted three times, turned in a circle, and died — exactly where King Ku Na had the temple built in 1383.

The ascent begins with the famous Naga Staircase: 309 steps flanked by two giant serpent beings (Nagas), whose scaly bodies wind down the entire slope. Those who shy away from the steps take the cable car (50 THB). Once at the top, you enter a world of gold: The gilded chedi (16 meters high, coated with real gold) contains a relic of Buddha and is the destination of constant prayer processions. The faithful circle the chedi three times clockwise, lotus flowers and incense sticks in hand — a deeply moving ritual.

The viewing terrace offers a panoramic view over all of Chiang Mai and the Mae Ping Valley, which is particularly spectacular at sunset. On clear days (November-February), the view extends to the mountains on the Burmese border. In the rainy season (June-October), clouds often hang over the temple grounds, giving the place a mystical atmosphere — you literally stand in the clouds.

The Doi Suthep-Pui National Park around the temple offers hiking trails through dense mountain forest, waterfalls (Monthathan and Huay Kaew), and the Hmong village of Doi Pui, where you can buy traditional handicrafts and learn about the simple lifestyle of the Hmong. The road to the temple (1004 curves, say the locals) is an experience in itself — by songthaew (shared taxi, 60 THB from the zoo, 40 THB return) or motorbike.

Chiang Mai is Thailand's market capital — not an evening goes by without a night market, no weekend without a Walking Street Market, no morning without a local Talat. The market culture is more deeply rooted here than anywhere else in the country, and the quality of the handicrafts — silver jewelry, celadon ceramics, handwoven silk, teakwood carvings — is unmatched nationwide.

The Night Bazaar on Chang Khlan Road is the most famous but also the most touristy market in Chiang Mai. Every evening from 6 PM, the street transforms into a mile of stalls: textiles, silver, wood carvings, elephant pants (yes, here too), paintings, fake designer bags. The quality varies greatly — those looking for good handicrafts go to the Galare Night Bazaar (within the grounds, with a stage for live music) or the Ploen Ruedee Night Market directly opposite, which attracts a younger crowd with its container bars and craft beer stands. Haggling is a must — start at 50% of the quoted price.

The real highlight is the Weekend Walking Street Markets. The Sunday Walking Street (Ratchadamnoen Road, Sunday 4-11 PM) is one of the best markets in Asia: The entire old town main street becomes a pedestrian zone, and hundreds of stalls offer handmade handicrafts that are light years away from the Night Bazaar mass-produced goods — hand-painted lampshades made of Sa-paper (mulberry paper), intricate silverwork of the Karen, indigo-dyed cotton of the Hmong, Lanna lanterns, and celadon ceramics. In between: the best street food selection in Northern Thailand.

The Saturday Walking Street (Wualai Road, Saturday 4-11 PM) is smaller but more focused on silver jewelry — Wualai Road is Chiang Mai's traditional silversmith district. Here you buy handmade silver rings, bracelets, and earrings directly from the artisans who work in the workshops behind the stalls. The prices are fair, the quality excellent.

For foodies: The Warorot Market (Kad Luang) is Chiang Mai's oldest and largest day market — a three-story labyrinth of fresh fruits, spices, fermented sausage (Sai Ua), dried buffalo meat, Lanna curries, and local delicacies. On the ground floor are the groceries, on the first floor textiles, on the second floor household goods. Here, the locals shop — no tourists, no inflated prices, pure Chiang Mai.

Chiang Rai, the northernmost major city in Thailand, stands in the shadow of its big sister Chiang Mai — unjustly. What Chiang Rai lacks in size, it more than makes up for with three of the most extraordinary temple artworks in Asia. Here, traditional Thai temple architecture has taken a surreal, contemporary turn that is unmatched worldwide.

The Wat Rong Khun (White Temple) is the masterpiece of Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat — and a cultural shock of a special kind. From the outside, the temple resembles a vision of ice and diamonds: all in white, adorned with mirror mosaics that dazzle in the sun. The approach leads over a bridge under which hundreds of stone hands reach out from a "sea of suffering" — a Buddhist depiction of hell that rivals Dante. Inside (no photography allowed!), visitors are in for a surprise: Alongside traditional Buddha depictions, the murals show Superman, Batman, Angry Birds, and burning Twin Towers — Kositpipat's commentary on the modern world of consumption and violence. The temple is an ongoing project and is not expected to be completed until 2070.

Just 13 km south lies the Wat Rong Suea Ten (Blue Temple) — the bright blue counterpart to the white temple, designed by a student of Kositpipat. Both inside and out are held in deep sapphire blue, with golden ornaments and a radiant white Buddha. Less known than the White Temple, less crowded, and at least as photogenic. Free entry.

The third wonder is the Baan Dam Museum (Black House) — the life's work of the recently deceased artist Thawan Duchanee. A complex of over 40 buildings in black teakwood, filled with a dark collection: animal skins, bones, horns, crocodile skins, carved phallic symbols, and surreal sculptures. It is the dark yin to the bright yang of the White Temple — fascinating, disturbing, unforgettable.

Chiang Rai itself is a relaxed, pedestrian-friendly small town with an excellent Night Bazaar (smaller and more authentic than Chiang Mai's version), the noteworthy Hilltribe Museum (Oub Kham Museum, with golden royal insignia of the Lanna dynasties) and a growing café scene. The region is also Thailand's emerging tea-growing area: The Choui Fong Tea Plantation and the Singha Park Farm offer tours through spectacular tea terraces with mountain panoramas.

Pai is what happens when Thai mountain idyll meets international hippie culture — a tiny town in a breathtakingly beautiful valley, surrounded by rice fields, hot springs, and forested mountains, which has magnetically attracted backpackers, digital nomads, yoga practitioners, and dropouts since the 2000s. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a Southeast Asian Glastonbury: reggae bars, smoothie stands, mandala tattoo studios, and vintage Volkswagen buses as photo backdrops everywhere.

The journey is part of the experience — and notorious: 762 curves on the road from Chiang Mai to Pai (Route 1095, 135 km, 3-4 hours by minibus). Those prone to motion sickness should take Dramamine and sit in the front. The alternative: a 25-minute flight with Kan Air from Chiang Mai (if available) over one of Asia's most spectacular flight routes.

The sights around Pai are manageable but charming. The Pai Canyon (Kong Lan) is a narrow sandstone formation with paths that drop steeply on both sides — the sunset from here is legendary, but not for those with a fear of heights. The Tham Lot Cave (60 km north) is a massive cave with an underground river that you glide through on a bamboo raft — bats, stalactites, and 3,000-year-old cave paintings included. The Sai Ngam Hot Springs offer natural hot pools in a tropical forest (some free, the chic "Pai Hot Springs" costs 300 THB). The Yun Lai Viewpoint (20 THB) offers a 360-degree view over the Pai Valley and its rice fields in clear weather.

In the town itself, the Walking Street (daily from 5 PM) is the center of social life: food stalls with northern Thai and international cuisine, hippie market, live music in the bars. The cocktails are cheap (Mojito 120 THB/~3€), the mood exuberant, and the Pai pace is unbeatable slow. During the day, rent a motorbike (150-250 THB/day) and explore the waterfalls, rice fields, and mountain villages in the area.

Pai has lost some of its original charm in recent years — there are now more Instagram spots than authentic experiences. Still: In the off-season (June-October), when the rain turns the rice fields into vibrant green and most tourists stay away, Pai shows its best side.

Thailand and elephants — it's a complicated story. The Asian elephant is Thailand's national animal, once indispensable in war, logging, and ceremony. But the reality of the modern "elephant tourism industry" has often been cruel: elephant riding, circus acts, and chaining are still commonplace in many commercial camps. In recent years, however, a counter-movement has formed — ethical conservation projects that provide rescued elephants with a dignified life and offer visitors an experience that respects both sides.

The Elephant Nature Park (ENP) in Mae Taeng (60 km north of Chiang Mai) is the flagship of ethical elephant projects. Founded by Thai activist Lek Chailert, it is home to over 80 rescued elephants — former working animals, abused circus elephants, landmine victims. The animals live in herds on large grounds by the Mae Taeng River. Visitors are allowed to feed, observe, and accompany the elephants while bathing in the river — but never ride, touch, or force them to perform tricks. A day visit costs 2,500 THB (~65€) including transport, lunch, and a guided tour.

Important criteria for ethical projects:

• No riding: A saddle on an elephant's back causes spinal damage. Ethical projects do not allow riding under any circumstances.
• No chains: The animals move freely on the grounds, not chained to stakes.
• No tricks: Elephants that paint, play football, or perform tricks have been tortured with "Phajaan" (breaking the spirit) to make them compliant.
• Herd structure: Elephants are social animals. Ethical projects keep them in natural family groups.
• Transparency: Serious projects explain the origin of each animal and openly show how the money is used.

Other recommended projects in the region: Elephant Jungle Sanctuary (several locations around Chiang Mai, from 1,800 THB/~47€), Burm and Emily's Elephant Sanctuary (Mae Chaem, smaller and more intimate, from 3,000 THB/~78€) and Ran-Tong Save & Rescue Centre (Chiang Mai, from 2,200 THB/~57€). All follow the principle: observe, feed, bathe — no riding, no chains.

The rule of thumb: If a provider advertises elephant riding, photo shoots with chained animals, or show programs — stay away. These practices support an industry based on systematic animal cruelty. The ethical alternatives cost a bit more, but the experience — feeding bananas to a rescued elephant and seeing a herd bathe together in the river — is incomparable and leaves no bad conscience.

The mountains of Northern Thailand — forested hill ranges rising up to 2,565 meters (Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest peak) — are home to a fascinating diversity of ethnic minorities, known to the Thais as Chao Khao (hill tribes). Karen, Hmong, Lahu, Lisu, Akha, and Yao have lived for generations in villages on the mountain ridges, each with their own language, beliefs, textile art, and traditions. Trekking through this region is one of the most authentic experiences Thailand has to offer.

The classic trekking routes lead from Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai on 2- to 5-day hikes through the mountain jungle, with overnight stays in hill tribe villages, bamboo raft rides on rivers, and elephant encounters (with ethical providers). The difficulty is moderate — it goes over roots and mud, through streams and rice fields, but rarely over truly steep terrain. A good basic fitness level is sufficient.

The best trekking areas:

• Doi Inthanon National Park (90 km southwest of Chiang Mai): Thailand's highest mountain, with moss-covered cloud forest, rhododendron forests, waterfalls, and two impressive pagodas on the summit. Day hikes and multi-day treks possible. In the morning, it can drop below 5°C here — bring warm clothing!
• Mae Hong Son Province: Thailand's most remote province, with dramatic mountains, deep valleys, and authentic Karen villages. The "Mae Hong Son Loop" (600 km motorcycle circuit from Chiang Mai) is legendary.
• Chiang Rai Highlands: The mountains around Doi Mae Salong (formerly settled by the Chinese KMT army, now a tea-growing area) and Doi Tung offer trekking with Akha and Lahu village visits plus breathtaking views.
• Doi Suthep-Pui National Park: For shorter day hikes right on the doorstep of Chiang Mai.

When visiting hill tribe villages, cultural sensitivity is a must. Always ask for permission before photographing. Buy handicrafts directly from the villagers (not from middlemen in Chiang Mai). Take nothing that is not offered to you. And avoid the notorious "Long Neck Karen" villages on the tourist routes — these are commercial human zoos where Padaung women (a subgroup of the Karen) are displayed with brass neck rings. There are better, more respectful ways to learn about hill tribe culture.

The northern Thai cuisine (Ahan Phak Nuea) is a distinct culinary world that differs from Bangkok's cuisine as much as Bavarian does from northern German. The flavors are stronger, smokier, more bitter, and tart — less sweet than in the center, less coconut-milky than in the south, with an emphasis on fermented ingredients, herbs, and sticky rice instead of jasmine rice. Those who only know Pad Thai and Tom Yum will be culinarily reborn in Chiang Mai.

The flagship of northern Thai cuisine is Khao Soi — an addictive dish. This Burmese-Lanna fusion consists of egg noodles in a creamy curry coconut soup with tender chicken or beef, topped with a nest of crispy fried noodles. Accompanied by: pickled cabbage, shallots, and a squeeze of lime. The balance of creamy, crispy, spicy, and sour is perfect. The best addresses:

• Khao Soi Khun Yai (Sri Phum Road) — revered by locals as the best Khao Soi in town. Tiny shop, huge flavor. Only until 2 PM, then sold out.
• Khao Soi Mae Sai (Fa Ham) — an institution for over 30 years. The falling-off-the-bone beef version is legendary.
• Khao Soi Nimman (Nimman Soi 7) — more tourist-friendly, but the quality is right.

Sai Ua (northern Thai sausage) is the second must-try dish: coarsely chopped pork, seasoned with a fireworks of lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, dried chili, turmeric, and shrimp paste, then stuffed into natural casings and grilled over charcoal. The result is a flavor explosion — smoky, spicy, herby, with a complexity that makes any butcher envious. Best found at the Warorot Market (50-80 THB/piece) or any stall on the Walking Streets.

Other Lanna classics you must try:

• Nam Prik Ong — a hearty dip made from tomatoes, minced meat, and chili paste, served with raw vegetables and crispy pork skin (Khaep Mu). The ultimate Thai snack experience.
• Gaeng Hang Lay — a Burmese-influenced curry of pork belly with ginger, tamarind, and peanuts. Sweet-sour, profound, irresistible. Not a coconut milk curry, but a dark, complex broth.
• Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiaw — rice noodles in a blood-red tomato-pork rib soup with fermented soybean cake. Looks intimidating, tastes heavenly.
• Larb Mueang — the northern Thai version of Larb: minced meat with blood, dried chili, herbs, and roasted rice powder. More intense and tart than the Isaan version.
• Khao Niao (sticky rice) — in the north, sticky rice is eaten with everything. It comes in small bamboo baskets (Kratip) and is rolled into balls with the fingers, which are dipped into curries, dips, and soups.

Chiang Mai has also become Thailand's cooking class capital in recent years. Dozens of cooking schools offer half-day and full-day courses (from 900 THB/~23€), where you shop at the market in the morning and then cook 4-6 dishes. Recommended: Thai Farm Cooking School (on a farm outside the city, you harvest the ingredients yourself), Mama Noi Cooking Class (small, personal, family-like) and Asia Scenic Thai Cooking School (one of the oldest, solid quality).