Istanbul
Discovering Istanbul
Istanbul spans two continents and is intersected by the Bosporus, the Golden Horn, and the Sea of Marmara. The city is a universe of districts, each with its own character. Here are the most important ones:
Sultanahmet (Old City)
The historic heart of Istanbul and a UNESCO World Heritage Site: Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace, Hippodrome, and Basilica Cistern are all within walking distance. The atmosphere is touristy but irresistible — here 2,000 years of history are concentrated on a few square kilometers. Early morning or after 5 pm is the most atmospheric.
Beyoğlu & Galata
North of the Golden Horn lies Istanbul's creative heart. The İstiklal Caddesi — Istanbul's famous promenade with a historic tram — pulses day and night. The Galata Tower offers panoramic views, and around it are galleries, music clubs, bookstores, and rooftop bars. Karaköy at the foot of the hill has transformed from a port district to the hippest neighborhood: specialty coffee, street art, concept stores.
Kadıköy (Asian Side)
The ferry to Kadıköy is more than a means of transport — it is an experience. On the Asian side, you will find a more authentic, less touristy Istanbul. The Kadıköy Market (Çarşı) is a labyrinth of fish stalls, spice shops, dairies, and street snacks. The Moda district with its Art Nouveau houses and tea gardens by the sea is Istanbul's "Brooklyn".
Balat & Fener
The colorfully painted wooden houses of Balat and Fener on the Golden Horn are Istanbul's Instagram darlings — but they are much more than a photo motif. These old Greek-Jewish quarters are full of history: the iron church St. Stephen of the Bulgarians, the Ecumenical Patriarchate Church, synagogues, and Ottoman mosques exist side by side. Add to that vintage cafés, antique shops, and the best street food in the city.
Beşiktaş & Ortaköy
On the European Bosporus shore lies Beşiktaş — the district of students, football fans, and fish restaurants. The fish market (Balık Pazarı) here is more authentic than the one in Beyoğlu. Ortaköy directly under the Bosporus Bridge is famous for its small mosque by the water, the Kumpir stands (stuffed giant potatoes), and the view of the illuminated bridge at night.
Hagia Sophia★★★
The Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) is Istanbul's most significant building and one of the most important in human history. Since 537 AD, this architectural marvel has stood — for almost 1,000 years the largest church in Christendom, then 500 years a mosque, 85 years a museum, and since 2020 a mosque again.
Emperor Justinian I. had the church built in just five years (532–537). The massive dome — 56 m high, 31 m in diameter — seems to float and was a technical marvel of its time. Upon entering, the scale hits you like a blow: the vast interior, the light streaming through 40 windows, the golden Byzantine mosaics, which remained partially visible even after its conversion into a mosque.
On the upper floor, you will find the famous Deësis mosaic (13th century) — Christ flanked by Mary and John the Baptist — one of the masterpieces of Byzantine art. The mosaics of Empress Zoë and Emperor John II are also preserved. Since its reopening as a mosque, some mosaics have been covered with curtains but are partially visible during prayer times.
Notable details: the "sweating column" (wishing column) with the copper hole into which you stick your thumb; the Viking runes carved by a guard in the 9th century into the marble balustrade; and the huge calligraphic round shields commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecid I. with the names of Allah, Mohammed, and the first caliphs.
Tipp
Come right at the opening at 9 AM — the tour groups are not there yet. The visit is free (mosque), but you must take off your shoes and women need a headscarf. Scarves are lent at the entrance. During the five daily prayer times (especially Friday noon), tourist access is restricted — check the current prayer times in advance.
Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque)★★★
Directly opposite the Hagia Sophia stands the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii) — the masterpiece of architect Sedefkâr Mehmed Ağa, built 1609–1616 at the behest of Sultan Ahmed I. It is the only mosque in Istanbul with six minarets and the landmark of the district.
Its nickname comes from the over 20,000 hand-painted İznik tiles inside, predominantly in blue tones, featuring floral and geometric patterns. The interplay of blue ceramics, 260 windows with colored glass, and the light streaming through the dome creates an almost mystical atmosphere. The main dome reaches 43 m in height and is supported by semi-domes — an architectural cascade system that visually extends the space to infinity.
The mosque is an active place of worship — respectful behavior is mandatory. The tourist entrance is on the north side. After extensive restorations (2017–2023), the interior shines in new splendor.
Tipp
Visit the Blue Mosque right in the morning after Hagia Sophia — between 8:30 and 11:30 AM is the best time. During midday prayers (approx. 12:30–2:00 PM) and on Fridays, it is closed to tourists. The courtyard with the fountain is a quiet retreat from the hustle and bustle on Sultanahmet Square.
Topkapı Palace★★★
The Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) was the residence of the Ottoman sultans and the power center of an empire for almost 400 years (1465–1856). Located on a peninsula at the confluence of the Golden Horn, Bosporus, and Sea of Marmara, it is now one of Turkey's most visited museums.
The palace is less a single building than a city within a city — four courtyards with pavilions, mosques, libraries, kitchens, and the legendary Harem. Plan at least 3–4 hours.
Highlights:
- Harem: The private quarters of the Sultan's family with over 300 rooms. The İznik tiles, gilded fireplaces, and the throne room of the Sultan's mother (Valide Sultan) are overwhelming. Separate ticket required!
- Treasury: The 86-carat Spoonmaker's Diamond (Kaşıkçı Elması), the Topkapı Dagger with three huge emeralds, and golden thrones — one of the richest collections in the world.
- Holy Relics: In the Chamber of Holy Relics are the Prophet Mohammed's cloak and sword, a piece of the Black Stone from Mecca, and Moses' staff — a holy place for Muslims.
- Fourth Courtyard: Terrace with breathtaking panorama over the Bosporus. The Medidiye Pavilion offers the most beautiful view of the entire palace.
Tipp
Buy your ticket online in advance at muze.gov.tr to avoid the queue (in summer 1–2 hours!). Come at the opening at 9 AM and go FIRST to the Harem (separate ticket, 400 ₺ extra) — it fills up quickly. The Treasury and the Holy Relics are next. Tuesday is a rest day!
Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı)★★★
The Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı) is with over 4,000 shops on 31,000 m² one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world. Since 1461, trading, haggling, and strolling have taken place here — an experience for all the senses.
The bazaar stretches over 61 streets with arched, colorfully painted ceilings. The labyrinth is divided into quarters by trades: goldsmiths, carpet dealers, leather goods, ceramics, spices, lamps, jewelry, textiles. Orientation is deliberately difficult — getting lost is part of the experience.
What to buy?
- Carpets & Kilims: The royal discipline. Quality and prices vary enormously (500–50,000 ₺+). Enjoy a Çay, compare, haggle — and if in doubt, leave without buying.
- Jewelry & Gold: The Kuyumcular Çarşısı (Goldsmith Street) sparkles. Gold is calculated by weight + labor. Quality is generally good (check hallmark).
- Ceramics from İznik: Hand-painted tiles and plates with the classic blue, red, and green tulip and floral patterns. Genuine İznik ware is expensive (from 200 ₺), industrial mass-produced items from 30 ₺.
- Leather goods: Bags, jackets, belts — good quality, bargaining is a must.
- Spices & Tea: Better to buy next door in the Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Bazaar) — same goods, cheaper prices.
Tipp
The Grand Bazaar is open Monday to Saturday 8:30 AM–7:00 PM, closed on Sundays. Come shortly after 9 AM when the alleys are still half-empty. The tourist trap: carpet invitations with Çay — enjoy the tea, but don't feel pressured. A good merchant accepts a "Hayır, teşekkürler" (No, thank you). Bargaining rule: Start at 40–50% of the quoted price.
Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı)★★
Beneath the streets of Sultanahmet lies an underground palace: The Basilica Cistern, built in 532 AD under Emperor Justinian I, was the largest of over 60 ancient cisterns in Istanbul. 336 marble columns — each 9 meters high — support the ceiling over a water reservoir that once held 80,000 cubic meters of water.
The atmosphere is magical: dimmed light reflecting in the shallow water, classical music in the background, and at the far end two enigmatic Medusa heads as column bases — one upside down, one sideways. Why? No one knows for sure. The most common theory: they were simply the right size as a base.
After an extensive restoration (2017–2022) with modern LED lighting and new walkways, the visit is now more comfortable but also busier than before. The cistern served as a backdrop for the James Bond film "From Russia with Love" and Dan Brown's "Inferno".
Tipp
Buy tickets online at muze.gov.tr — the queue at the entrance can take 30–60 minutes. It's quietest in the morning at 9 am or in the last hour before closing. Photographers: tripods are not allowed, but with high ISO and a steady hand, atmospheric shots can be achieved.
Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Bazaar)★★
The Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) at the Golden Horn in Eminönü is Istanbul's scent wonder. Since 1664, spices, dried fruits, Turkish Delight (Lokum), tea, and nuts have been sold here. The L-shaped, covered building with its high vaults is smaller and more manageable than the Grand Bazaar — and the prices for food are often better.
What to buy:
- Saffron (from 150 ₺/gram — beware of fakes!), sumac, pul biber (chili flakes), turmeric, cumin seeds
- Turkish Delight / Lokum in dozens of varieties (from 200 ₺/kg): rose blossom, pistachio, pomegranate, hazelnut
- Dried fruits: figs, apricots, mulberries — the best in the world!
- Turkish tea (Çay) and apple tea (more for tourists, Turks drink black tea)
- Turkish coffee, ground (Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi — the classic, right next to the bazaar)
Tipp
Right next to the bazaar exit towards the Golden Horn is the stand of Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi — the most famous Turkish coffee since 1871. The line is long, but the coffee is excellent and affordable (250g from 80 ₺). Perfect souvenir!
Galata Tower★★
The Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) is Istanbul's most distinctive viewpoint north of the Golden Horn. The 67-meter-high stone tower was built in 1348 by Genoese colonial merchants as a watchtower and offers from its circular gallery a 360° panoramic view over Istanbul: the old city with its mosques, the Bosporus, the Asian side, the Golden Horn, and on clear days, even the Princes' Islands.
The tower is located in the heart of the Galata/Beyoğlu district — around the tower, a vibrant scene of cafés, galleries, and music clubs has developed. The steep alleys downhill towards Karaköy are full of street art and independent boutiques.
Tipp
The queue can be 45–90 minutes in summer. Alternative: Instead of paying 650 ₺ for the tower visit, go to one of the rooftop bars in the area (e.g., Galata Konak Café or 5.Kat) — similar view, plus a drink for half the price.
Bosporus Experiences★★★
The Bosporus (İstanbul Boğazı) is much more than a strait — it is the soul of Istanbul. 30 km long, 700 m to 3.3 km wide, it separates and connects Europe and Asia. A ride on the Bosporus is a must-do.
Bosporus Tours
- Şehir Hatları Long Tour (Boğaz Turu): Departure from Eminönü daily at 10:35 AM, 6 hours round trip almost to the Black Sea (Anadolu Kavağı). Stops on both shores. Price: approx. 100 ₺ with Istanbulkart. THE best value-for-money experience in the city.
- Short Tour (2h): Private providers from Eminönü and Kabataş, approx. 200–400 ₺. Faster, but less authentic.
- Sunset Cruise: Evening tours with food and music, from 500–1,500 ₺. Kitschy, but the sunset behind the city skyline is magical.
Highlights on the Bosporus
- Dolmabahçe Palace: The opulent palace (1856) on the European shore — 285 rooms, 46 halls, the largest chandelier in the world (4.5 tons, a gift from Queen Victoria). Atatürk died here on November 10, 1938.
- Ortaköy Mosque: The delicate Baroque mosque right by the water under the Bosporus Bridge — the most photographed scene of Istanbul at night.
- Rumeli Hisarı: The mighty Ottoman fortress (1452), built in just 4 months in preparation for the conquest of Constantinople. Impressive walls with a Bosporus panorama.
- Kanlıca: Small fishing village on the Asian side, famous for its yogurt. From the ferry dock, view the villas (Yalıs) of the wealthy.
Tipp
For the long trip: Sit on the right side on the way there (European side with palaces and mosques). In Anadolu Kavağı at the endpoint, you have 2–3 hours — climb to the fortress (Yoros Kalesi) for a sensational view of the Black Sea entrance, and eat fresh fish down at the harbor.
Eating & Drinking in Istanbul
Istanbul is a culinary paradise — from street food for a few Lira to Michelin-starred restaurants. Here are the essential food experiences:
Street Food
- Balık Ekmek (Fish Sandwich): At the Golden Horn in Eminönü — grilled mackerel in bread with onions and salad. Classic on the swaying boats at the base of the Galata Bridge (from 80 ₺).
- Simit: The ubiquitous sesame ring — the Turkish pretzel. Available everywhere from street vendors, fresh and warm (15–25 ₺).
- Kumpir: In Ortaköy, have giant baked potatoes filled with 20+ toppings (from 120 ₺).
- Döner: Forget the German Döner — here is the original: thin slices from the rotisserie in flatbread or as Dürüm in Lavash. Best Döner: Bayramoğlu (Kadıköy) or Şehzade Erzurum Cağ Kebabı (Fatih, horizontal spit!).
- Kokoreç: Grilled lamb intestines in bread — sounds unusual, tastes fantastic. Very popular with locals, especially at night.
Restaurant Tips
- Çiya Sofrası (Kadıköy): The most famous Lokanta (home-cooked restaurant) in Turkey. Changing meze, stews, and kebabs from all regions. Netflix-famous through "Chef's Table". Reservations essential! Budget level: €€.
- Karaköy Lokantası (Karaköy): Modern Turkish cuisine in an elegant setting. Excellent meze and fish dishes. Budget level: €€€.
- Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi (Sultanahmet): Since 1920 — only one dish: grilled Köfte with white beans and spicy sauce. Simple, perfect, legendary. Budget level: €.
- Hafız Mustafa 1864 (multiple locations): Historic confectionery for Baklava, Lokum, Künefe, and Turkish ice cream. A sweet must.
Turkish Breakfast (Kahvaltı)
The Serpme Kahvaltı (large breakfast) is a ceremony: up to 20 small dishes with white cheese (Beyaz Peynir), olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, honey with Kaymak (cream), Sucuk (garlic sausage), Menemen (scrambled eggs with tomatoes and peppers), Böreks, jams, and endless tea. Best at Van Kahvaltı Evi (Beyoğlu) or Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu (Beşiktaş) — plan 2–3 hours!
Tipp
Under the Galata Bridge, fish restaurants line up — they are atmospheric but touristy and overpriced. Instead, go one street into the neighborhood: same quality, half the price. For the best street food: Kadıköy Market on the Asian side — this is where the Istanbulites themselves eat.
Hammam (Turkish Bath)
A visit to the Hammam is one of the most authentic experiences in Turkey. The Turkish bath has been an integral part of the culture since the Middle Ages — a place of cleansing, relaxation, and social exchange.
Procedure of a Hammam Visit
- Changing: You receive a Peştemal (wrap towel) and wooden sandals. Swimwear is optional, most wear the Peştemal.
- Warming up: Lie on the hot marble stone (Göbek Taşı) in the center of the steam room and sweat (15–20 min.).
- Kese (Peeling): The Tellak/Natır (bather) scrubs you with a rough glove — amazing how much skin comes off. Intense, but liberating.
- Foam Massage: Wrapped in a mountain of soap foam, you are massaged and kneaded. Heavenly.
- Cooling down: Cold water pours, then relaxation room with Çay.
Recommended Hammams in Istanbul
- Çemberlitaş Hamamı (1584): Built by Mimar Sinan, the most famous Hammam in Istanbul. Touristic, but authentic and beautiful. Complete package from 1,200 ₺ (~34 €). Mixed and separate sections.
- Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı (1583): Also by Sinan, lavishly restored. The most beautiful Hammam in Istanbul — design purism meets Ottoman splendor. From 1,500 ₺ (~43 €). In Tophane/Karaköy.
- Süleymaniye Hamamı (1557): Less touristy, more local, and one of the largest historical Hammams. Good value for money. From 800 ₺ (~23 €).
- Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı (1556): Right between Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque — pure luxury, prices accordingly (from 2,500 ₺ / ~71 €). The most expensive, but most impressive Hammam experience.
Tipp
Do not enter the Hammam hungry, but not on a full stomach either. Ideally, 1–2 hours after a light meal. Leave valuables in the locker. Tip for the Tellak: 10–20% of the package price. The Kılıç Ali Paşa offers the best balance between authenticity and quality.
Stadtrundgang
Sultanahmet & Goldenes Horn zu Fuß
The classic Istanbul walk through 2,000 years of history — from Hagia Sophia through the Grand Bazaar to the Golden Horn.
Hagia Sophia
Start at the square in front of the Hagia Sophia. Admire the Byzantine masterpiece from outside (or go inside right away — then plan an extra 45 minutes). The size of the dome and the minarets in the morning light are impressive.
15–60 Min.Sultanahmet Square & Hippodrome
Cross the square to the Blue Mosque. On the former Hippodrome (chariot racing track, 100,000 spectators!) still stand the Egyptian Obelisk (3,500 years old!), the Serpent Column, and the German Fountain (a gift from Kaiser Wilhelm II).
15 Min.Blue Mosque
Shoes off, headscarf on — enter the Blue Mosque. The 20,000 İznik tiles and the play of light through 260 windows are magical. Afterwards, view the fountain in the courtyard.
20–30 Min.Basilica Cistern
Back across the square to Yerebatan Caddesi. The underground cistern with 336 columns and the mysterious Medusa heads is an atmospheric counterpoint to the sunlight outside.
20–30 Min.Çemberlitaş & Column of Constantine
Follow the Divan Yolu (ancient main street of Constantinople) uphill. At the Çemberlitaş stop stands the charred Column of Constantine (330 AD) — once 50 m high, now still 35 m. Opposite lies the famous Çemberlitaş Hamamı.
10 Min.Grand Bazaar
Enter the labyrinth of the Kapalı Çarşı through one of the 22 gates. Let yourself drift, compare prices, accept an invitation for Çay, and only buy on the second or third visit. The Kalpakçılar Caddesi (main street) runs through the center.
45–90 Min.Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Bazaar)
From the Grand Bazaar downhill towards the Golden Horn to the Spice Bazaar. Spices, Lokum, tea, dried fruits — the scents are overwhelming. At the exit: Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi for the best Turkish coffee.
20–30 Min.Galata Bridge & Golden Horn
Across the two-story Galata Bridge — dozens of fishermen above, fish restaurants below. Enjoy the view back at the mosque silhouette from the bridge. Plus a Balık Ekmek (fish sandwich) from the boats at the bridge's base.
15–20 Min.Galata Tower
Destination: the Galata Tower with its panoramic view over the entire city. Either climb the tower (650 ₺) or enjoy the view and a Turkish coffee in one of the surrounding cafés. A perfect conclusion!
20–40 Min.War dieses Kapitel hilfreich?
