Khiva

Khiva (Uzbek Xiva) is located at the western edge of Uzbekistan, on the edge of the Karakum Desert and near the Turkmen border. The city was once the capital of the Khanate of Khiva and a notorious stop on the Silk Road—known for its slave market and the dangers that awaited travelers on their journey through the desert.

Today, Khiva with approximately 90,000 inhabitants is the smallest of the three major Silk Road cities—and that is precisely what makes it so appealing. The Ichan Kala (inner city) is surrounded by an almost completely preserved city wall (2.2 km long, up to 10 m high) and was inscribed as Uzbekistan's first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1990.

What sets Khiva apart from Samarkand and Bukhara: Here, it's not about individual monumental buildings, but about a complete city ensemble. Within the walls, over 50 historical buildings stand closely together—minarets, palaces, mosques, and madrasas, connected by a labyrinth of clay alleys. Plan for 1–2 days.

Kalta Minor Minaret — The Unfinished Landmark

The Kalta Minor (1851) is the first thing you see at the West Gate—and it is Khiva's landmark. A thick, truncated cone-shaped minaret, completely covered with turquoise, blue, and white tiles. It was intended to be the tallest minaret in Central Asia at 70 m—but the Khan died during construction, and it was left at 26 m. This very imperfection makes it unforgettable. The Kalta Minor is the most photographed subject in Uzbekistan.

Juma Mosque — The Forest of Columns

The Juma Mosque (Friday Mosque, 10th century, renewed 1788–1789) is unique: instead of domes and tiles, a forest of 213 carved wooden columns supports the flat roof. Each column is a unique piece—some are over 1,000 years old and come from destroyed predecessor buildings. The subdued light falling through skylights creates a mystical atmosphere unlike any other mosque. The 33 m high minaret next to the mosque offers the best panoramic view over the Ichan Kala. Entry included in the combination ticket.

Tash-Khovli Palace

The Tash-Khovli (1830–1838) was the Khan's residential palace—and is the most decorative building in Khiva. Three courtyards (reception, harem, judiciary) with exquisite tile work in blue, white, and green. The harem courtyard with its carved wooden columns and ceramic walls is breathtaking. The tiles display geometric patterns and floral motifs of a fineness that surpasses even the great madrasas. Entry included in the combination ticket.

Kunya-Ark Citadel

The Kunya-Ark (17th century) was the fortress and residence of the Khans of Khiva. Throne room, reception courtyard, mint, and a terrace with a panoramic view over the city. The throne room (Kurnysh-Khana) with its open aivan (terrace) and tiled walls is particularly impressive. In summer, receptions and punishments took place here. Entry included in the combination ticket.

Islam-Khodja Minaret & Madrasa

The Islam-Khodja Minaret (1910) is the tallest minaret in Khiva at 57 m—and the youngest. The adjacent madrasa now houses a small museum of applied arts. The minaret is recognizable by its spiral pattern of light and dark bricks and offers, after climbing (over 100 steep steps), a fantastic view over the entire city ensemble.

City Wall & Sunset

The city wall of the Ichan Kala is walkable at several points. The sunset from the north wall is legendary: The setting sun bathes the clay buildings and minarets in golden light, while the call of the muezzin resounds. A moment that etches itself into memory.

Dining in Khiva

Khiva is smaller and more touristy than Bukhara—the restaurant selection is more limited, but there are some gems:

• Terrassa Café: On a rooftop terrace in the Ichan Kala with views over the old town. Uzbek and international cuisine. The best place for breakfast with a view.
• Khorezm Art Restaurant: In an old madrasa, traditional Khorezm cuisine. Try Shivit Osh—green noodles with dill herb, served with meat sauce. A Khiva specialty found nowhere else.
• Bir Gumbaz: Right at Kalta Minor. Tourist location, but good food and fantastic view of the minaret.
• Tea houses within the walls: Hidden chaikhanas in the alleys of the Ichan Kala. Ask locals—they'll gladly show you their favorite spots.

Khiva Specialties

• Shivit Osh: Green dill noodles with meat sauce—the signature specialty of Khiva and the Khorezm region.
• Tukhum Barak: Dumplings with egg filling, steamed and served with butter. Simple but delicious.
• Khorezm Plov: Lighter and less greasy than Tashkent plov, often with quince or peas.

Getting to Khiva

• From Bukhara: Shared taxi (6–7h, 8–12€), night train to Urgench (8–10h, 2–5€) or flight to Urgench (1h, from 25€).
• Urgench–Khiva: From Urgench train station/airport by taxi (30 min., 3–5€) or marshrutka (minibus, 0.30€).
• From Tashkent: Flight to Urgench (1.5h, from 35€)—the fastest option if you're short on time.

Accommodation

• Budget: Lali Opa Guesthouse, Meros B&B—family-run, within the walls, 10–15€/double room.
• Mid-range: Orient Star Khiva, Zarafshon Boutique Hotel—in restored old town houses, 25–50€/double room.
• Luxury: Hotel Khiva Palace, Asia Khiva—comfortable, 50–80€/double room.

How Much Time?

1 full day is enough for the highlights of the Ichan Kala. With 2 days, you have time for the Dishan Kala, sunset from the wall, and a trip to the desert fortress Ayaz-Kala (2h away, overnight stay in a yurt possible—a memorable experience!).