Samarkand

Samarkand (Uzbek Samarqand) is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world — for over 2,750 years. Alexander the Great conquered it in 329 BC and is said to have remarked: "Everything I have heard about Samarkand is true — except that it is even more beautiful than I imagined." This judgment holds true to this day.

The city owes its splendor to the conqueror Timur (Tamerlane), who made Samarkand his capital in the 14th century and, with architects, craftsmen, and artists from the entire conquered region — from Persia to India — created a city that overshadowed everything before it. His grandson Ulugh Beg further established it as a center of science.

Today, Samarkand (approx. 550,000 inhabitants) is a vibrant Uzbek city where everyday life takes place among monumental buildings. The UNESCO World Heritage Sites are concentrated in the center and are easily accessible on foot. Plan at least 2–3 days for Samarkand.

The Registan (Persian: "sandy place") is the landmark of Uzbekistan, the most iconic square in Central Asia, and one of the most impressive squares in the world. Three monumental madrasas (Islamic colleges) frame a vast square — each a masterpiece in its own right, together an overwhelming ensemble.

Ulugh Beg Madrasa (1417–1420)

The oldest and scientifically most significant of the three madrasas. Built by Ulugh Beg, the astronomer-ruler and grandson of Timur. The facade features star motifs — a reference to Ulugh Beg's passion for astronomy. In the inner cells, 100 students once studied mathematics, astronomy, and philosophy. Ulugh Beg taught here personally.

Sher-Dor Madrasa (1619–1636)

The "Lion Gate" opposite the Ulugh Beg Madrasa. Its facade features an unusual motif: two tigers (not lions!) hunting deer, with a radiant human face in a sun — a violation of the Islamic prohibition on images, which did not concern the patron Yalangtush Bakhodur. This motif is now depicted on the 200-sum banknote.

Tilya-Kori Madrasa (1646–1660)

The youngest of the three madrasas closes the square to the north. Its name means "gilded" — and that's no exaggeration: The mosque inside is adorned with real gold and is one of the most splendid interiors in Central Asia. The ceiling creates an optical illusion of depth, although it is flat — a masterpiece of perspective painting.

Experience the Registan

The Registan is most beautiful in the morning and at sunset. In the afternoon, the sun is unfavorable for photos. In the evenings, there is sometimes a light and sound show (seasonal, summer). Admission: approx. 40,000 UZS (~3€). Plan at least 2 hours to visit all three madrasas at leisure.

Gur-Emir Mausoleum — Timur's Final Resting Place

The Gur-Emir ("Tomb of the Ruler") is the mausoleum of Timur (Tamerlane), the conqueror who created an empire from Turkey to India. The ribbed turquoise dome (12.5 m in diameter) is one of the most perfect structures of Islamic architecture. The interior is breathtaking: onyx, gold, lapis lazuli, and jasper cover the walls and ceiling. Timur's tombstone of dark green jade is the largest jade block in the world. Admission: approx. 25,000 UZS (~2€).

Shah-i-Zinda — Avenue of the Living Kings

The Shah-i-Zinda is a necropolis (city of the dead) — a steep alley with over 20 mausoleums from the 9th to the 19th century, flanked by some of the most beautiful tilework in the Islamic world. Each mausoleum is individually designed: deep blue, turquoise, golden, and green mosaics in a variety that surpasses even the Registan. At the end of the alley: allegedly the tomb of Kusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad. Shah-i-Zinda means "the living king" — according to legend, he continues to live in his tomb. Admission: approx. 30,000 UZS (~2€).

Bibi-Khanum Mosque

When completed in 1404, the Bibi-Khanum Mosque was one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world — Timur's attempt to impress God with monumentality. The dimensions are overwhelming: The entrance portal is 35 m high, and the courtyard could accommodate 10,000 worshippers. The mosque was built so ambitiously that it began to crumble almost immediately — Timur had architects executed. Today, it is impressively restored. In the courtyard stands a huge marble Quran stand. Admission: approx. 25,000 UZS (~2€).

Ulugh Beg's Observatory

Ulugh Beg (1394–1449), Timur's grandson, was one of the greatest astronomers of the Middle Ages. His observatory (1428–1429) on the outskirts of the city had a huge sextant (radius: 40 m!), with which he calculated the positions of over 1,000 stars — with an accuracy not surpassed until the 17th century. Today, the underground remains of the sextant and a small museum can be seen. Admission: approx. 25,000 UZS (~2€).

Siab Bazaar

Right next to the Bibi-Khanum Mosque lies Samarkand's largest bazaar. Less monumental than the Chorsu in Tashkent, but more authentic and less touristy. Famous for: Samarkand's legendary flatbread (Non-i Samarkand), considered the best in Uzbekistan — round, thick, sprinkled with sesame and cumin, long-lasting. Also: mountains of dried fruits, nuts, and spices.

Samarkand has its own culinary identity — the flatbread (Non-i Samarkand) is famous nationwide, and the plov is prepared differently here than in Tashkent.

Samarkand Specialties

• Non-i Samarkand: The most famous bread in Uzbekistan. Larger, thicker, and more durable than elsewhere, sprinkled with sesame and cumin. Buy at the Siab Bazaar and take it home as a souvenir (lasts for days!).
• Samarkand Plov: Unlike Tashkent's plov, it is prepared here with chickpeas, raisins, and quinces — somewhat sweeter and fruitier.
• Qozon Kabob: Lamb cooked in a tandoor oven, tender and juicy.

Where to eat?

• Siab Bazaar: Fresh bread, shashlik stands, fruits, and dried fruits. The best and cheapest option.
• Old City Restaurant (Bibikhanum): Right by the Registan, Uzbek cuisine on the rooftop terrace with views of the madrasas. Touristy, but the view is priceless.
• Platan Restaurant: Popular with locals and tourists, large portions, fair prices. Good plov.
• Samarkand Bukhara Restaurant: Traditional cuisine in a beautiful courtyard. Live music in the evenings.

Getting There

• Afrosiyob Train from Tashkent: High-speed train, 2h 10 min, approx. 90,000–150,000 UZS (7–12€). 3–4 connections daily. The most convenient and fastest way. Book online: railway.uz (14 days in advance!).
• Sharq Train: Slower alternative, 3.5h, significantly cheaper (3–5€).
• Shared Taxi: From Tashkent approx. 4h, 40,000–60,000 UZS (3–5€) per person. Departure from Olmazor bus station.
• Airplane: Uzbekistan Airways flies Tashkent–Samarkand (1h, from 25€). Rarely necessary.

Local Transport

The sights are all within 2 km — you don't need a taxi. For the way to the train station or Ulugh Beg's Observatory: Yandex Go or local taxi (1–2€).

Accommodation

• Budget: Bahodir B&B, Antica B&B — family-run guesthouses, 10–15€/double room.
• Mid-range: Hotel Registan Plaza, Dilimah Premium — central, comfortable, 25–50€/double room.
• Upmarket: Movenpick Samarkand, Silk Road by Minyoun — international standard, 60–120€/double room.

Day Trips

• Shakhrisabz: Timur's birthplace, 90 km south. Ruins of the gigantic Ak-Saray Palace (UNESCO). By taxi: 15–20€ round trip.
• Konigil Paper Mill: 10 km outside. Here, silk paper (Samarkand paper) is made using an ancient method — a fascinating craft. By taxi: 3–5€.