Patagonia
Perito Moreno Glacier & El Calafate★★★
★★★ Perito Moreno Glacier — The Living Natural Wonder
The Perito Moreno is not just a glacier — it is a living natural wonder and one of the few in the world that is still growing. With a front width of 5 kilometers, a height of 60–70 meters above the water (and another 100 meters below), it rises like a gigantic icy wall from the turquoise Lago Argentino. The glacier's total area: 250 km² — as large as the city of Buenos Aires.
What makes Perito Moreno special: It is one of the most dynamic glaciers on Earth. Each day, the ice advances about 2 meters. Every few minutes, house-sized ice chunks break off the 60-meter-high front with a deafening roar and crash into the lake — a spectacle you can watch for hours and never tire of. The sounds are indescribable: First a deep rumble, then a crack like thunder, then the impact with a meter-high splash. The colors of the ice range from dazzling white to deep blue to turquoise — the older and denser the ice, the bluer it glows.
Every few years, an even more spectacular phenomenon occurs: The glacier advances so far that it divides Lago Argentino into two halves. The pressure of the dammed water rises until an ice tunnel forms, which collapses with a mighty crash — the "Ruptura," a natural spectacle that attracts thousands of spectators and is broadcast internationally. The last major Ruptura was in 2018.
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Entrance: approx. 25,000 ARS (approx. 20€, foreigner price). Daily 8:00–18:00 (summer), 9:00–16:00 (winter). From El Calafate: 80 km, approx. 1.5h by bus (from bus terminal, several times daily, approx. 8,000 ARS round trip) or organized tour.
Experiences at Perito Moreno
The Pasarelas (Walkways) — The Free Highlight
A system of several kilometers of wooden walkways with various viewpoints on multiple levels — some at eye level with the glacier front, others from above with panoramic views. Included in the park entrance. Plan at least 2–3 hours — but honestly, you'll want to stay longer. There's something hypnotic about watching the glacier "work" and waiting for the next calving.
The Three Main Walkways:
- Pasarela Superior: Overview from above — ideal for panoramic photos
- Pasarela Central: At eye level with the glacier front — the most dramatic perspective
- Pasarela Inferior: From water level — here you see the calvings up close
★★★ Mini-Trekking — Walking on the Glacier
THE highlight for anyone wanting to get close to the ice: A guided glacier hike (approx. 1.5 hours on the ice) with crampons. You walk over the blue ice, through crevasses, past ice caves, and over meltwater streams. Moderate fitness is sufficient — the guides adjust the pace. The absolute highlight: At the end of the hike, whisky with glacier ice is served — broken directly from a crevasse. The ice is hundreds of years old and crackles in the glass as the trapped air bubbles escape.
Provider: Hielo y Aventura (monopoly). Approx. 100–150€ (80,000–120,000 ARS). Age: 10–65 years. Total duration: approx. 5h (including transfers, boat, hike). Shoe size 35–47 (crampons provided). Don't forget: Sunscreen, sunglasses, water! RESERVATION ESSENTIAL — at least 1 week in advance, 2–3 weeks in high season.
★★★ Big Ice — For the Adventurous
The extended version of the Mini-Trekking: approx. 3.5 hours on the ice, deeper exploration of the glacier, higher sections, more impressive crevasses, and ice caves. More demanding (good fitness required, steep sections), but the most intense experience you can have with a glacier — without being a mountaineer.
Approx. 150–200€ (120,000–160,000 ARS). Age: 18–50 years (strict!). Total duration: approx. 7h. Only Nov–March, in good weather. Even more important than for Mini-Trekking: Book early!
★★ Safari Náutico — By Boat to the Glacier Front
For those who don't feel like crampons: A boat trip directly to the glacier front — the perspective from below, with the 60-meter-high ice wall above you, is overwhelming. Experiencing the calvings from this close (the waves!) is unforgettable. Lasts about 1 hour.
Approx. 30–40€. Departure from the harbor Bajo las Sombras (6 km before the Pasarelas). Several departures daily. Easily combinable with the walkways on the same day.
★★ Glaciar Upsala — The Colossus
The Upsala Glacier is the largest glacier in the national park at 50 km long — but only accessible by boat trip across the Brazo Norte of Lago Argentino. The tour leads through channels with floating icebergs (some as large as houses, in unreal shades of blue) to the glacier. Full-day excursion from El Calafate, often combined with Glaciar Spegazzini.
Approx. 80–120€ (full day, including bus + boat). Provider: Solo Patagonia. Departure approx. 7:00 am, return approx. 6:00 pm.
Tipp
Arrive EARLY in the morning at the glacier (8:00–9:00), when the tourist buses are not yet there! The first two hours are almost yours alone. And: Bring binoculars — you'll see the cracks in the ice just before a piece breaks off. Midday (12–2 pm) is the busiest. In the afternoon, the best calvings often occur because the sun warms the ice.
El Calafate — The Base€€
El Calafate — The Glacier Town
The base town for the Perito Moreno lies on the southern shore of the vast Lago Argentino and has evolved from a sleepy Andean village to the tourist hub of Patagonia. The Avenida del Libertador is the main axis: Hotels, restaurants, outdoor shops, tour agencies, and ATMs line up.
What to do in El Calafate (besides Perito Moreno)?
- Glaciarium: Modern ice museum on the outskirts — interactive exhibition on glaciers and climate change. In the basement: the Glaciobar, an ice bar where everything is carved from glacier ice (walls, tables, glasses). Cocktails in the ice temple! Approx. 8,000 ARS including one drink
- Laguna Nimez: A small nature reserve on the lakeshore (10 min walk from the center), home to flamingos, swans, and over 80 bird species. Perfect for a morning stroll. Approx. 3,000 ARS
- Estancia Visit: Day trips to gaucho ranches in the area — horseback rides, sheep shearing demonstrations, traditional asado. Estancia Cristina (only accessible by boat across Lago Argentino, full day, approx. 120€) is the most spectacular
Food & Drink
- La Tablita (Coronel Rosales 24): The best parrilla in town — huge portions from the open grill, Patagonian lamb (Cordero Patagónico) as a specialty. From 8,000 ARS. Reserve!
- Casimiro Biguá (Av. del Libertador 963): Upscale, with an excellent wine list and Patagonian specialties (lamb stew, wild trout). From 10,000 ARS
- Viva la Pepa (Emilio Amado 833): Small café with the best crepes and cakes in town — perfect for a break
Getting There
- El Calafate Airport (FTE): 3h from Buenos Aires (Aerolíneas Argentinas, FlyBondi, JetSMART). The airport is 22 km east — shuttle bus (approx. 3,000 ARS) or taxi (approx. 8,000 ARS)
- Bus from El Chaltén: 3h (several times daily, approx. 6,000 ARS). Spectacular drive through the Patagonian steppe with views of Lago Viedma
- Bus from Ushuaia: 12–14h (night bus) or flight via Buenos Aires
Fitz Roy & El Chaltén — The Trekking Capital
★★★ El Chaltén — Argentina's Trekking Capital
The small mountain village of El Chaltén (approx. 1,600 inhabitants) at the foot of Monte Fitz Roy is Argentina's youngest village (founded in 1985 to secure territorial claims against Chile!) and its trekking capital. From here, some of South America's most spectacular hikes start — all free of charge (no park entrance fee in the national park area around El Chaltén!) and possible without a guide. The trails are well-marked, the landscape is overwhelming, and the mountains are so close that you can see the glaciers' ice glistening.
El Chaltén itself is a charming trekker village: A main street with outdoor shops, restaurants, breweries, and hostels, surrounded by lenga forests and mountain panoramas. The atmosphere is relaxed and communal — in the evenings, trekkers from all over the world sit in the breweries exchanging trail stories. There is no ATM network (only one ATM, which is often empty!) — bring enough cash!
Achtung
The weather in El Chaltén changes by the minute! Start treks only in good weather and turn back if clouds gather. The wind can become dangerous on exposed sections (especially on the final ascent to Laguna de los Tres) — 80 km/h is not uncommon. ALWAYS register at the ranger's office at the village entrance — they know the current weather conditions and provide important safety advice. Packing list: rain jacket, windbreaker, gloves, hat, sunscreen SPF 50+, at least 2 liters of water, snacks for 10+ hours.
Laguna de los Tres — Step by Step
★★★ Laguna de los Tres (Fitz Roy) — THE Classic
The hike to Laguna de los Tres at the foot of Monte Fitz Roy is one of the most famous hikes in South America — and the reward at the end is one of the most spectacular viewpoints in the world. Here's how to do it:
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Distance | 20 km (round trip) |
| Elevation Gain | 750 m total ascent |
| Duration | 8–10 hours |
| Difficulty | Challenging (final ascent!) |
| Start | At the village edge of El Chaltén (signposted) |
| Entrance | Free! |
| Guide needed? | No, trail well-marked |
The Trail in Detail:
Phase 1: Ascent to the Mirador (km 0–3, approx. 1h)
From the village edge, the trail climbs steeply through lenga forest. After about 3 km, you reach the first Mirador del Fitz Roy — a viewpoint with the first unobstructed view of the Fitz Roy massif. Many are breathless here: The granite spires seem to rise directly in front of you. Take a break, take photos, breathe.
Phase 2: Flat Valley (km 3–8, approx. 1.5h)
The trail runs relatively flat through a wide valley along the Río Blanco. Left: Lenga forest. Right: Fitz Roy, sometimes hidden behind clouds, sometimes in full glory. You cross bridges over glacial streams and pass the Campamento Poincenot (free wild camp, the most popular overnight option for multi-day trekkers). Here: Last chance for water and toilet before the ascent!
Phase 3: The Brutal Ascent (km 8–10, approx. 1–1.5h)
Now it gets serious: The last kilometer goes 400 meters steeply uphill — over scree, loose stones, and exposed rock steps. The steepest section of the entire hike. Many underestimate it. Take your time, drink enough, take breaks. In rain or snow, this section can become slippery and dangerous!
Phase 4: The Reward — Laguna de los Tres
You reach the edge — and then the view explodes: The Laguna de los Tres, a glacial lake in unreal turquoise blue, lies in a basin, framed by the three granite spires of Fitz Roy (Fitz Roy 3,405 m, Poincenot 3,002 m, Rafael Juárez 3,410 m). Behind: The Glaciar de los Tres, calving into the lagoon. The water is so clear you can see the bottom. The granite spires reflect in the surface. At sunrise, they glow orange-red — hence many trekkers start at 4:00 am (or camp at Campamento Poincenot and hike up in the dark). This moment is one of the most beautiful nature has to offer on this planet.
Tipp
For the sunrise at Fitz Roy (THE experience!): Spend the night at Campamento Poincenot (free, bring a tent!) and start the ascent at 5:00 am in the dark with a headlamp. You'll be up by 6:00–6:30 when the first rays set the granite spires ablaze. The beauty is indescribable. Alternatively: Start from El Chaltén at 4:30 am — doable, but tough.
Laguna Torre & other Treks
★★★ Laguna Torre
The second major hike from El Chaltén — and for many the more atmospheric. Cerro Torre (3,128 m) is less high than Fitz Roy, but its needle-like peak, almost always shrouded in clouds and ice, is considered one of the most challenging climbing mountains in the world. The lagoon at its base is filled with floating icebergs from Glaciar Grande.
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Distance | 18 km (round trip) |
| Elevation Gain | 350 m ascent |
| Duration | 6–8 hours |
| Difficulty | Moderate (no brutal final ascent like at Laguna de los Tres) |
The trail leads through lenga forests and over open steppe with views of Torre and Glaciar Grande. The lagoon itself is gloomier and more dramatic than Laguna de los Tres — often wind-swept, with floating icebergs in milky-turquoise water. At Mirador Maestri (a short detour from the main trail), you have the best view of Cerro Torre.
★★ Loma del Pliegue Tumbado — The 360° Panorama
Less visited, but with the best panorama of all treks: From the Loma (1,490 m) you see BOTH — Fitz Roy AND Cerro Torre — plus the entire Viedma Lake and the Patagonian steppe to the horizon. Perfect on a clear day.
18 km, 7–9h, 1,000 m elevation gain, challenging. Start at the village edge.
★★ Mirador de los Cóndores & Águilas
The perfect short hike for the arrival day or a relaxed afternoon: Only 3 km, 1 hour, with a magnificent view of El Chaltén, Lago Viedma, and (with luck) condors gliding over the thermals. Start directly at the ranger's office at the village entrance.
Multi-Day Treks
For the ambitious: The two major treks (Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre) can be combined into a Huemul Circuit — a challenging 4-day circuit around the Fitz Roy massif with river crossings (up to chest height!), glacier crossings, and absolute wilderness. Only for experienced trekkers, registration at the ranger's office mandatory, no marked trails on some sections.
Ushuaia & Tierra del Fuego — The End of the World
★★★ Ushuaia — The Southernmost City in the World
Ushuaia (54°48' South) is located on the Beagle Channel — named after the ship that Charles Darwin sailed through here in 1833 — nestled between snow-capped mountains of the Cordillera Darwin and the icy waters of the channel. It is the southernmost city in the world (Puerto Williams in Chile is smaller and officially considered a "settlement"), the gateway to Antarctica (all Antarctic cruises start here), and a place full of symbolism and adventure.
The city itself is not an architectural gem — more a collection of colorful houses climbing up the steep slopes. But the location is breathtaking: Snow-capped peaks behind the city, the silvery Beagle Channel in front, and in the evening, a light that brings photographers to tears. The famous sign "Ushuaia — Fin del Mundo" (End of the World) at the harbor is a must-photo for every visitor. At the post office at the harbor, you can get the legendary "Fin del Mundo" stamp in your passport — the coolest passport stamp souvenir in the world.
Beagle Channel — Boat Tour with Sea Lions and Penguins
★★★ Beagle Channel Boat Tour
The boat tour through the Beagle Channel is Ushuaia's No. 1 highlight (besides the national park). The trip passes by:
- Isla de los Lobos: Hundreds of sea lions (Lobos Marinos) lie on the rocks and roar — you get close enough to smell them (intense!)
- Isla de los Pájaros: Thousands of cormorants (Magellanic and Imperial cormorants) on the cliffs — a bird paradise
- Les Éclaireurs Lighthouse: The iconic red-white lighthouse on a small rocky island — often mistakenly called the "Lighthouse at the End of the World" (Jules Verne's lighthouse is actually on Isla de los Estados, further east). Nevertheless: The most photogenic image of Ushuaia
- Isla Martillo (Pinguinera): The extended tours go to the penguin colony — Magellanic penguins (October–March) and rare rockhopper penguins. You can disembark on the island and walk among the penguins!
Standard tour (2.5–3h): approx. 30,000–40,000 ARS (approx. 30–40€). Extended tour with Pinguinera (5–6h): approx. 60,000–80,000 ARS. Several providers from the harbor. Best time: Nov–March (penguin season). Warm clothing — it's COLD on the water, even in summer!
Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego
★★★ Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego
Argentina's southernmost national park, 12 km west of Ushuaia, protects 63,000 hectares of subantarctic forest, peat bogs, lakes, and coastline along the Beagle Channel. The landscape is unlike anything you've seen in Patagonia: Moss-covered lenga forests, beaver dams (an invasive species causing enormous damage), quiet lakes, and the rugged coast of the Beagle Channel.
The Best Hikes:
- ★★★ Senda Costera (Coastal Path): 8 km, 3–4h. The most beautiful route — along the coast of the Beagle Channel, through forest and over pebble beaches. Endpoint: Bahía Lapataia, the absolute endpoint of Ruta Nacional 3 (which begins in Buenos Aires, 3,079 km to the north). Here stands the famous sign: "Aquí finaliza la Ruta Nacional 3"
- ★★ Senda Hito XXIV: 10 km (round trip), 3–4h. To the boundary marker at the Chilean border, through dense forest by Lago Roca. Flat and peaceful
- ★★ Laguna Negra: Short loop (950 m) through a fascinating peat bog — a landscape like from another planet
- ★ Cerro Guanaco: 8 km, 4–5h, steep (950 m elevation gain). For the ambitious: 360° panorama over the Beagle Channel, Lago Roca, and the mountains of Chile
Entrance: approx. 15,000 ARS (approx. 12€, foreigner price). Daily 8:00–20:00 (summer), 9:00–17:00 (winter). Getting there: Shuttle bus from Ushuaia center (approx. 5,000 ARS round trip) or taxi (approx. 8,000 ARS one way).
Martial Glacier, Tren del Fin del Mundo & more
★★ Glaciar Martial — The City Glacier
The Glaciar Martial hangs on the mountains directly behind Ushuaia — you can see it from the center! A chairlift (Aerosilla, approx. 5,000 ARS round trip) takes you up to 1,050 m, from where you hike 1–1.5h to the glacier edge. The view over Ushuaia, the Beagle Channel, and — on clear days — to the islands of Chile is sensational. In winter: Skiing and sledding!
7 km from the center (taxi approx. 3,000 ARS). Chairlift: daily 10:00–17:00 (summer).
★ Tren del Fin del Mundo — The Train at the End of the World
The historic narrow-gauge railway runs on a section of the route that once transported prisoners of Ushuaia's notorious prison (1910–1947). The 40-minute ride through the lenga forest, over bridges, and through gorges is picturesque — but honestly: touristy and expensive for what it is. A must for railway fans, optional for everyone else.
Approx. 40,000–60,000 ARS (40–60€!) depending on class (Tourist, First, Presidential). Start: Estación del Fin del Mundo (8 km west of Ushuaia). The ride ends in the national park. Note: Park entrance is NOT included in the train ticket!
★★ Museo Marítimo (Old Prison)
The former Presidio de Ushuaia (1902–1947) — one of the toughest prisons in the world, located at the literal end of the world. Argentina's most dangerous criminals were sent here — political prisoners, murderers, anarchists. The cells are preserved, the stories of the inmates documented on the walls. One wing is dedicated to the Maritime Museum (maritime history), another to Antarctic exploration. Impressive and oppressive at the same time.
Gobernador Paz & Yaganes. Daily 10:00–20:00. Approx. 8,000 ARS.
Winter Activities (June–September)
- Cerro Castor: The southernmost ski resort in the world! 34 slopes, 650 m vertical drop, good snow, and — compared to European ski resorts — no queues. Day pass: approx. 30,000 ARS
- Dog Sledding: Through snowy forests at the foot of the mountains — a magical experience. From approx. 30,000 ARS
- Cross-Country Skiing & Snowshoeing: In the valley of Tierra Mayor, 20 km from Ushuaia
Ruta 40 & Península Valdés
★★★ Ruta 40 — Argentina's Legendary Road
The Ruta Nacional 40 is Argentina's "Route 66" — and at over 5,194 km one of the longest roads in the world. It runs from Cabo Vírgenes in the far south of Patagonia (almost at the Strait of Magellan) to La Quiaca on the Bolivian border in the north, always along the Andes. Ruta 40 crosses 11 provinces, overcomes 27 Andean passes, crosses 18 major rivers, and connects Argentina's most diverse landscapes — from Patagonia's glaciers to Mendoza's vineyards to the colorful mountains of the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
The Best Sections for a Road Trip:
★★★ Patagonia Section (El Calafate – El Chaltén – Perito Moreno [town]):
The wildest stretch — endless steppe, herds of guanacos, no people in sight, gravel roads, and a sky that never ends. The 220 km from El Chaltén to Perito Moreno (the town, not the glacier!) are legendary: Hours without a single vehicle, gas stations 200+ km apart, the wind pushing the car sideways. All-wheel drive recommended, spare canisters mandatory!
★★★ Northwest Section (Cafayate – Cachi – Salta):
The most colorful stretch — the Quebrada de las Flechas, the Valles Calchaquíes with their rainbow mountains, the Cuesta del Obispo (mountain pass at 3,348 m), and the Recta Tin Tin (a dead-straight stretch through the Parque Nacional Los Cardones with giant cacti). Paved and doable in 2 days.
★★ Wine Country Section (Mendoza – San Juan):
Wineries, olive groves, and the foothills of the Andes. Well-paved, easy to drive.
★★★ Península Valdés — Whales and Wildlife
Further north in Patagonia (accessible from Puerto Madryn) lies the Península Valdés (UNESCO World Natural Heritage) — one of the best places in the world for wildlife observation:
| Animal | Best Time | Highlight |
|---|---|---|
| Southern Right Whales | June–December | Thousands come to calve in the protected bays. Boat tours from Puerto Pirámides (from 50€) |
| Orcas | March–April | They spectacularly beach themselves to hunt sea lions — a phenomenon unique in the world! Punta Norte |
| Magellanic Penguins | September–March | Huge colony at Punta Tombo (500,000+ penguins!) |
| Elephant Seals | Year-round | The largest seals in the world (up to 4 tons!) at Punta Delgada |
| Sea Lions | Year-round | Colonies on several beaches |
| Armadillos, Rheas, Maras | Year-round | On the gravel roads of the peninsula |
Puerto Madryn: Airport (REL), 2h from Buenos Aires. Bus from BA: 18h (night bus). Day trip to Península Valdés: approx. 40–60€ (organized tour). Valdés entrance: approx. 15€.
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