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Verstehen · Kapitel 9

Food & Drink

Gran Canaria Reiseführer

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VerstehenKapitel 9: Food & Drink
Verstehen · Kapitel 9

Food & Drink

The Canarian cuisine is an honest cuisine shaped by the sea and volcanoes — papas arrugadas con mojo, freshly caught Atlantic fish, the unique Queso de Flor, and wines from volcanic soils. Simple, yet of a quality that will surprise you.

The Canarian Cuisine

The cuisine of Gran Canaria is a reflection of the island's history: indigenous traditions (Gofio!), Spanish colonial cuisine, African influences, and Latin American flavors merge into a unique culinary identity. The foundation consists of fresh Atlantic fish, goat cheese, potatoes, Gofio, and the ubiquitous Mojo sauces.

The Classics

  • Papas arrugadas con mojo: THE Canarian national dish. Small, waxy potatoes are cooked in heavily salted water (traditionally seawater) until the skin becomes "wrinkled" and forms a salt crust. Served with two Mojo sauces: Mojo rojo (red, with dried peppers, cumin, and garlic, spicy) and Mojo verde (green, with coriander or parsley, milder). Every family has its own recipe. As a side dish or main course: €3–6.
  • Vieja a la espalda: Parrotfish (Vieja), crispy fried on the skin side, with Mojo and papas arrugadas. The signature fish of the Canaries — the white, firm flesh is delicate. Main course: €12–20.
  • Ropa vieja: Literally "old clothes" — a hearty stew of chickpeas, shredded beef, potatoes, and vegetables. The ultimate Canarian comfort food.
  • Gofio: Roasted corn or wheat flour — the staple food of the indigenous people, still indispensable today. Gofio is stirred into milk (breakfast), formed into balls (gofio escaldado), mixed into soups, or served as a dessert with honey and almonds. The taste is nutty and slightly sweet.
  • Sancocho canario: Festive dish of salted fish (usually Cherne — wreckfish), sweet potatoes, regular potatoes, and Gofio. Simple, but a delight in good restaurants.
  • Potaje de berros: Watercress stew with beans, corn, and potatoes — hearty, filling, and typical of rural areas.

Fish & Seafood

Gran Canaria is an island — fish is ubiquitous and of excellent quality:

  • Vieja (Parrotfish): The quintessential Canarian fish.
  • Cherne (Wreckfish): Firm, white flesh, ideal for Sancocho.
  • Sama (Dentex): Often grilled whole.
  • Pulpo (Octopus): Grilled or in olive oil — fantastically fresh.
  • Lapas (Limpets): Grilled with Mojo verde — a Canarian delicacy found only here.

Cheese, Honey & Sweets

Queso de Flor de Guía

The Queso de Flor de Guía is Gran Canaria's culinary star and one of the most unusual cheeses in the world. It is made from a mixture of sheep and cow's milk and — this is the special part — coagulated with thistle flower extract (Cynara cardunculus) instead of animal rennet. The result is a creamy, slightly bitter cheese with a floral-herbal aroma reminiscent of artichokes and wildflowers. There are three stages of maturity: tierno (young, mild), semicurado (semi-mature, more aromatic), and curado (mature, intense). Protected designation of origin (D.O.P.) — only produced in the municipalities of Guía, Gáldar, and Moya. Best bought directly at the market in Teror or at the dairies (from €15/kg).

Other Cheese Varieties

  • Queso de Media Flor: Variant with a mix of thistle flower and animal rennet — milder than Queso de Flor.
  • Queso curado ahumado: Smoked, matured goat cheese — strong and perfect with red wine.
  • Queso fresco: Fresh, unsalted goat cheese — mild and ideal with Mojo or honey.

Honey (Miel de Gran Canaria)

Gran Canaria produces some of the most diverse honey varieties in Europe — thanks to the 14 microclimates and the corresponding plant diversity. Particularly sought after: honey from Retama (broom), Tajinaste (viper's bugloss), Castañero (chestnut), and Multifloral. Available directly from beekeepers at farmers' markets (from €8/250g).

Sweets & Pastries

  • Bienmesabe: Literally "it tastes good to me" — an almond-honey cream with egg yolk and lemon, used as a dessert or cake filling. Heavenly.
  • Truchas de batata: Crescent-shaped pastries filled with sweet potato puree and almonds. Traditional Christmas pastry, but available year-round.
  • Frangollo: Cornmeal pudding with raisins, almonds, and cinnamon — an ancient Canarian dessert.
  • Quesillo: Canarian flan made from condensed milk — creamy, sweet, and irresistible.

Wine & Beverages

Canarian Wines

Gran Canaria's viticulture has a tradition of over 500 years — even Shakespeare had his characters drink "Canary Sack." The vines grow on volcanic soils at altitudes up to 1,700 meters and are partly over 100 years old (phylloxera never reached the Canaries!). The result is unique, mineral wines with their own character.

Grape Varieties & Growing Areas

  • Monte Lentiscal (D.O. Gran Canaria): The main growing area in the northeast of the island. Red wines from Listán Negro and Tintilla, white wines from Malvasía and Listán Blanco.
  • San Mateo & Tejeda: High altitude (800–1,500 m) produces fresh, mineral wines.
  • Special Grape Varieties: The Canarian grape varieties are often unique and extinct elsewhere — Baboso Negro, Vijariego, Marmajuelo, and Albillo Criollo can only be found here.

The wines of Gran Canaria are not mass-produced — production is small, quality is high, and prices are fair (bottle from €8 in supermarkets, from €12 in good wine shops). In restaurants: from €15 per bottle.

Rum (Ron)

Ron Arehucas is the quintessential Canarian rum — distilled in Arucas since 1884. The range includes Ron Blanco (white, for cocktails), Ron Miel (honey rum — sweet, sticky, and dangerously delicious!), and Ron Añejo 12 Años (aged premium rum). Ron Miel is THE souvenir from the Canaries — a bottle costs from €8 in supermarkets.

Other Beverages

  • Barraquito: The typical Canarian coffee — espresso, condensed milk, frothed milk, Licor 43, lemon zest, and cinnamon, artfully layered in a glass. Addictive! From €2.50.
  • Cortado: Espresso with a dash of milk — the standard coffee in the Canaries. From €1.20.
  • Tropical: The local beer brand of the Canaries — a light, refreshing lager, perfect for the climate. Caña (0.25l) in restaurants: €1.50–2.50.
  • Dorada: The beer from Tenerife — the eternal rival of Tropical. On Gran Canaria, you order Tropical (patriotism!).

Tipp

For a wine tasting on Gran Canaria: The Bodega Los Berrazales in the Valle de Agaete or the wineries in Monte Lentiscal (northeast of Las Palmas) offer tours with tastings. At the market in San Mateo (Saturday/Sunday), you can taste and buy directly from the winemakers — one of the best ways to discover Canarian wines.

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