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Regionen · Kapitel 6

Highlands & Center

Gran Canaria Reiseführer

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RegionenKapitel 6: Highlands & Center
Regionen · Kapitel 6

Highlands & Center

The mountainous center of Gran Canaria is a different world: rugged volcanic peaks, deep ravines, pine forests, and villages where time seems to have stood still. Here, the Roque Nublo reigns, people live in cave dwellings, and you experience why Gran Canaria is rightly called a mini-continent.

Roque Nublo — Gran Canaria's Landmark

The Roque Nublo (Cloud Rock) is the landmark of Gran Canaria and one of the most famous natural monuments in the Canary Islands. The 80-meter-high basalt monolith rises at an altitude of 1,813 meters from the volcanic rock and was a sacred cult site for the indigenous people (Ancient Canarians). Today, it is the symbol of the island and the destination of the most popular hike in Gran Canaria.

The Hike

The hike to Roque Nublo is one of the easiest and most rewarding hikes in the Canary Islands. From the parking lot on the GC-600 road (above the Degollada de la Goleta), a well-marked path leads through pine forest and over volcanic rock to the foot of the monolith. The route is about 1.5 km each way with about 100 meters of elevation — achievable in 25–40 minutes, even for families with children (from about 6 years old).

The Panorama

The panorama from Roque Nublo is spectacular: On clear days (especially in the morning, before the trade wind clouds gather), you can see the Teide on Tenerife (Spain's highest mountain, 3,718 m) to the west, the dunes of Maspalomas as a bright strip by the sea to the south, Las Palmas to the north, and all around the rugged volcanic landscape of the Caldera de Tejeda. Right next to Roque Nublo stands the Roque del Fraile (Monk's Rock) — together they form one of the most iconic silhouettes of the Canary Islands.

Risco Caído & the Sacred Mountains

Since 2019, the Cultural Landscape of Risco Caído and the Sacred Mountains of Gran Canaria has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage. This area around Roque Nublo includes caves with astronomical markings of the indigenous people, grain storage, and cult sites — a unique testimony to pre-Hispanic culture. The Risco Caído itself is a cave near Artenara, where sunlight falls through an opening at certain times of the year and illuminates rock carvings — an astronomical calendar over 800 years old.

Tipp

It's best to start the hike early in the morning (before 10 AM) — that's when the visibility is clearest and the trade wind clouds have not yet gathered. Bring a light jacket: At 1,800 meters, it can be cool even in summer (10–15°C less than on the coast!). Parking at the starting point is limited — much easier on weekdays than on weekends.

Cruz de Tejeda & the Caldera

The Cruz de Tejeda (Cross of Tejeda) at 1,560 meters altitude is the geographical and symbolic center of Gran Canaria — a mountain pass where the paths from north and south, east and west have crossed for centuries. Today, it is the ideal starting point to explore the highlands.

The Pass

At Cruz de Tejeda stands a stone cross from the 15th century (the original is in the museum, the copy stands by the roadside), and all around are breathtaking views into the Caldera de Tejeda — a vast erosion crater that stretches across the entire west of the island. At the small market at the pass, local vendors sell almond sweets (bienmesabe — "it tastes good to me"), honey, cheese, and crafts. A few hundred meters away lies the historic Parador de Cruz de Tejeda — a luxury hotel with a restaurant and the best panoramic view on the island.

Tejeda — the Most Beautiful Village

The village of Tejeda, a few kilometers below the pass, is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Spain (it is on the official list of "Pueblos más bonitos de España"). White houses cling to the steep rock slopes above the ravine, almond trees shape the terraces, and the view of Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga is omnipresent. Especially beautiful in February, when the almond trees bloom and the Fiesta del Almendro en Flor (Almond Blossom Festival) is celebrated.

Hikes from Cruz de Tejeda

  • Cruz de Tejeda → Artenara: approx. 8 km (2.5–3 hours), ridge path with magnificent views. Moderate.
  • Cruz de Tejeda → Teror: approx. 12 km (3–4 hours), historic Camino Real through pine forest. Moderate.
  • Roque Bentayga Circular Route: approx. 5 km (1.5–2 hours), past the indigenous cult site with archaeological center. Easy to moderate.

Pico de las Nieves

The Pico de las Nieves (Snow Peak) is the highest point of Gran Canaria at 1,949 meters. The summit itself is a military restricted area, but the viewpoint a few meters below offers an incredible 360-degree panorama. On clear days, all eight Canary Islands are visible from here — Tenerife with the Teide, Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, La Gomera, and even the distant El Hierro. Access is conveniently by car via the GC-130.

Artenara — Living in Caves

Artenara is the highest municipality in Gran Canaria (1,270 m) and one of the most fascinating villages in the Canary Islands. Here, people still live in cave dwellings (Casas-Cueva), carved into the soft tuff stone — a tradition that dates back to the indigenous people (Ancient Canarians) and is over 2,000 years old.

The Cave Dwellings

What looks unremarkable from the outside — an entrance with a door and window carved into the rock — reveals itself inside as an astonishingly comfortable living space: consistent temperature (18–20°C year-round, without heating or air conditioning!), dry air, and absolute silence. Many cave dwellings are fully modernized — with kitchen, bathroom, Wi-Fi, and terrace with panoramic views. You can stay in such a Casa-Cueva (from about 50€/night on the usual booking platforms) — an unforgettable experience.

Cave Church Virgen de la Cuevita

The Ermita de la Virgen de la Cuevita is one of the most unusual churches in the world: entirely carved into the rock, with a small altar and the statue of the village's patron saint. The chapel is located on the hillside below the village and is accessible via a steep staircase. On August 15, the Fiesta de la Cuevita is celebrated here — a pilgrimage during which the residents carry the statue in a procession through the village.

Mirador de Unamuno

The Mirador de Unamuno (named after the Spanish philosopher Miguel de Unamuno, who visited Gran Canaria in 1924 and was overwhelmed by the landscape) offers one of the most magnificent views in the entire Canary Islands: The Caldera de Tejeda stretches below you like a giant natural amphitheater, the Roque Nublo and the Roque Bentayga rise as monumental rock spires, and on clear days, the Teide on Tenerife appears as a silhouette on the horizon. This view inspired Unamuno to the famous phrase: "This is a petrifying storm."

Centro de Interpretación

The Centro de Interpretación de Artenara in a restored cave explains the history of cave settlement from the indigenous people to the present day. Here you learn how the Ancient Canarians created these spaces without metal tools, how they stored grain in rock chambers, and the role the caves played as cult sites. Entrance: approx. 3€.

Tipp

For the full cave experience: Book a night in a Casa-Cueva in Artenara. Waking up in the morning, opening the cave door, and gazing at the Caldera de Tejeda — priceless. Combine it with the sunset at Mirador de Unamuno and a dinner at the cave restaurant "Mesón La Silla" (excellent Canarian cuisine in a rock cave!).

Barrancos & Hiking Trails

Gran Canaria's highlands are crisscrossed by deep Barrancos (ravines) that radiate from the center to the coast — massive erosion valleys that reveal the island's volcanic past. Each Barranco is its own world: lush vegetation on the northern slopes, barren rocks in the south, hidden cave villages, and archaeological sites of the indigenous people.

Barranco de Guayadeque

The Barranco de Guayadeque east of Ingenio is one of the deepest and most impressive ravines on the island. Here you find archaeological sites of the indigenous people (over 2,000 years old), a cave church (Ermita de Guayadeque), and several cave restaurants where you dine carved into the rock. The Guayadeque Cave Restaurants (Tagoror and Vega) are legendary: Canarian cuisine in a natural rock setting, often with a fireplace in winter. The ravine is accessible by car (the road ends at the restaurants) or can be hiked through (various routes, 2–6 hours).

Barranco de Fataga

The Fataga Ravine connects the highlands with the south and offers one of the most beautiful drives on the island: The GC-60 winds through dramatic rock formations, past the picturesque village of Fataga (white houses, palm trees, a small church — postcard motif) down to San Bartolomé. The Mirador de Fataga offers an overview of the entire ravine. In the village itself: a café, a small shop, and absolute tranquility.

Hiking Routes in the Highlands

Gran Canaria has a network of over 30 marked hiking trails (GR, PR, and SL) that open up the highlands. The main ones:

RouteDistanceDurationDifficulty
Roque Nublo Circular Route3 km (round trip)1–1.5hEasy
Cruz de Tejeda → Artenara8 km (one way)2.5–3hModerate
Barranco de Guayadeque8–12 km (variable)3–5hModerate
Camino de la Plata14 km5–6hHard
Tamadaba Circular Route6 km2–3hEasy–Moderate
Pico de las Nieves → Cruz de Tejeda10 km3–4hModerate

Practical Tips

  • Best hiking season: October–May (summer can be too hot in the sun, but mornings are fine).
  • Equipment: Sturdy hiking boots, sun protection, at least 1.5 liters of water per person, light jacket (wind on the peaks!).
  • GPS/maps: Komoot and Wikiloc have excellent map coverage for Gran Canaria. Download offline maps — mobile network is patchy in the ravines.
  • Beware of rain: After heavy rain, the Barrancos can turn into raging rivers within minutes. Never hike in a ravine if rain is forecast!

Achtung

After heavy rain, the Barrancos (ravines) can flood rapidly — so-called "Barranqueras." These flash floods are life-threatening. Never hike in a ravine if rain is forecast, and leave the ravine immediately if you hear thunder or the water level suddenly rises.

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