Kefalonia★★★
Kefalonia is the largest of the Ionian Islands (781 km²) and perhaps the most versatile. It has everything: one of the most beautiful beaches in the world (Myrtos), a magical underground cave (Melissani), the best-preserved Venetian village of the Ionian Islands (Fiskardo), and a wild mountain landscape with the highest peak of all the Ionian Islands — Mount Ainos (1,628 m), the last site of the endemic Kefalonia fir.
The earthquake of 1953 destroyed almost every building on the island — only Fiskardo in the north was spared. The reconstruction was utilitarian, and Kefalonia is architecturally less appealing than Corfu. But the nature makes up for everything: dramatic cliffs, bright turquoise bays, pine forests, olive groves, and a light that sends photographers into ecstasy.
The film "Captain Corelli's Mandolin" (2001, starring Nicolas Cage and Penélope Cruz) was filmed on Kefalonia and made the island internationally known. The island is just as beautiful as in the film — only more authentic because the filmmakers dismantled the sets afterward.
Plan 5–7 days. A rental car is almost mandatory — the island is large, the sights are scattered, and the mountain roads (especially to the Myrtos viewpoint) are winding and spectacular.
💡 Tipp
Captain Corelli's Mandolin was filmed here — Kefalonia is just as beautiful as in the movie, only more authentic.
Myrtos Beach★★★
Myrtos Beach appears on practically every "Most Beautiful Beaches in the World" list — and after the first look from the viewpoint, you'll understand why. A wide, crescent-shaped bay framed by 300-meter-high limestone cliffs, white pebble beach, and water in such an intense turquoise that it seems surreal. The contrast between the white beach, the turquoise sea, and the gray-beige cliffs is simply breathtaking.
The approach is via a steep, winding road from above — the viewpoint halfway offers THE panoramic photo and is one of the most photographed places in Greece. Down at the beach, there is a small kiosk with drinks and sunbed rental in summer (sunbed set: €10). Otherwise: nothing. No shade, no restaurant.
Important: The beach consists of white pebbles (not sand!), the water gets deep quickly, and there can be a strong current — better not to swim when it's windy. Bathing shoes are advisable. In the afternoon, the beach is partly in the cliff's shadow, so come in the morning (from 9 am).
Access: Between Argostoli and Fiskardo on the west coast road. From Argostoli about 30 km (45 min., winding). Parking above on the road (free), from there serpentine down to the beach (by car or on foot, 15 min.).
💡 Tipp
The viewpoint over Myrtos is best in the morning (sun in the east illuminates the beach). Better to swim during the week — on weekends and in August, the beach is crowded. Be sure to bring enough water!
Melissani Cave★★
The Melissani Cave is one of those places you have to see to believe. An underground cave with a lake, whose ceiling partially collapsed thousands of years ago — and through this hole in the ceiling, sunlight falls directly onto the crystal-clear water below. The result: an unreal, deep blue glow that bathes the entire cave space in color. When the midday sun shines directly through the ceiling opening (around 12–14 hrs), the effect is most spectacular.
The lake is up to 40 meters deep and is fed by underground springs that mix seawater with freshwater — a geological curiosity that puzzled scientists for decades. The cave was rediscovered in 1951 by the speleologist Giannis Petrocheilos (the ancient Greeks already knew it — nymph figurines and Pan sculptures were found).
The visit is conducted via a guided rowing boat tour (approx. 15 minutes). The boatman explains the geology and stops for photos. Cheesy? A bit. Magical? Absolutely.
Admission: 7€ (adults), 4€ (children). May–October: 9–19 hrs. Best to visit between 12 and 14 hrs when the sunlight is most intense. In July/August, waiting times of 20–40 minutes are possible — come early or late in the afternoon.
Drogarati Cave
Just 4 km from the Melissani Cave lies Drogarati — a dry stalactite cave with 150 million-year-old stalactites and stalagmites, which was uncovered about 300 years ago by an earthquake. The main chamber ("Hall of Splendor") is 65 meters long and has such impressive natural acoustics that concerts are actually held here — Maria Callas is said to have sung here once.
The cave is less spectacular than Melissani, but a good stop along the way. The descent of 128 steps leads into another world: a constant 18°C, dripping stalactites, bizarre formations. Duration: approx. 20–30 minutes.
5€. May–October: 9–17 hrs. Combo ticket with Melissani: 10€ (saves 2€).
Fiskardo★★
Fiskardo is the jewel of Kefalonia and the only village of the Ionian Islands that survived the 1953 earthquake almost unscathed. While the rest of the island lay in ruins and was rebuilt pragmatically, Fiskardo's Venetian stone houses in their warm ocher and terracotta tones remained standing.
The result: a picturesque harbor town that looks like a Greek picture book. Pastel-colored houses line a horseshoe-shaped natural harbor full of sailboats and fishing boats. Elegant tavernas on the quay, boutiques in the alleys, cypresses on the hills behind. Fiskardo is the most fashionable place in Kefalonia — in summer, the yachts anchor here, and restaurant prices are 30% above the island average.
Still, Fiskardo is definitely worth it. Take half a day: stroll through the harbor, have coffee in one of the waterfront cafés, swim at Foki Bay (1 km south, crystal clear, under cypresses, one of the most beautiful swimming spots on the island), and then have lunch by the water.
From Fiskardo, ferries to Ithaca (Frikes, 1 hour) and Lefkada (Vasiliki, 1.5 hours) depart — ideal for island hopping.
Best to visit in the morning or late afternoon — it gets crowded with day visitors at midday in summer. Restaurant tip: "Tassia" at the harbor (run by cookbook author Tassia Dendrinou, €€, fish).
Assos★★
Assos is located on the west coast on a narrow isthmus connecting the mainland with a wooded peninsula, on which a mighty Venetian fortress (1593) stands. The village itself consists of no more than 100 pastel-colored houses, a tiny harbor, three tavernas, and a pebble beach. It is incredibly photogenic — the view from the coastal road down to the village, the peninsula, and the fortress is one of the iconic images of Kefalonia.
The climb to the fortress takes about 20 minutes (steep, sturdy footwear) and rewards with a 360° panorama. The fortress ruins are extensive — the Venetians built a complete town here with churches, barracks, and a hospital. Today, everything is overgrown with wildflowers and pines. Free entry.
Assos is most beautiful outside the season (May/June, September/October) or late in the afternoon when the day-trippers are gone and the village belongs to the locals again.
Argostoli
Argostoli (13,000 inhabitants) is Kefalonia's capital and not a typical tourist spot, but a lively Greek small town with a rhythm that doesn't revolve around visitors. Completely rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake, it lacks old charm — but it has something better: authenticity.
De-Bosset Bridge
The oldest stone bridge over a sea bay (1813, British colonial period) connects Argostoli with the opposite shore of the lagoon. 689 meters long, flanked by an obelisk. In the morning, locals jog over it, in the evening it is illuminated.
★ Turtles in the Harbor!
The most surprising experience in Argostoli: In the fishing harbor, Caretta-Caretta turtles almost always swim right at the quay wall. They come because the fishermen throw their bycatch into the water. The best time is between 7 and 10 am — sometimes 5–10 animals are there at the same time. Just stand at the quay wall and look into the water. Free and better than any organized "Turtle Tour".
Market Hall (Agora)
The covered market hall on the square is the place for local products: Kefalonia honey (the famous thyme honey), Robola wine (indigenous grape variety, only on Kefalonia), herbs, local cheese. Most lively in the morning.
Koutavos Lagoon
The protected lagoon south of the bridge is a small natural paradise: flamingos and herons in winter, turtles in summer, and a pretty waterfront path for walking or jogging.
Restaurant tip: "Casa Grec" at the harbor (€€, Greek-Mediterranean fusion cuisine, best Robola wine in town) or "Ladokolla" (€€, street-food style, souvlaki and gyros right on the square).