Corfu

The Old Town of Corfu has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007 — and rightly so. No other Greek city looks like this: Venetian alleys (Kantounia) so narrow you could touch the clotheslines between the houses, French arcades on the Liston promenade, British palace architecture, and everywhere the warm ochre tones of the Venetian facades.

The heart of the Old Town is the Spianada Square (Esplanade) — with 40,000 m² the largest square in Greece and one of the largest in Europe. On the west side, the Liston Arcades, an elegant row of cafés under French arches, modeled after the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. The British added the cricket field, where cricket is still played today — a surreal sight in the Greek Mediterranean.

Stroll through the alleys of the Old Town (Campiello district in the north, Kofineta in the south) and let yourself drift. Every corner holds a small church, a hidden café, or a view of the sea. The Agios Spyridon Church houses the remains of the island's patron saint in a silver sarcophagus — four times a year he is carried through the town in a colorful procession.

Visit the Antivouniotissa Palace (now a museum of Byzantine and post-Byzantine art, 4€) and the Agios Iasonas & Sosipatros Church (12th century, one of the oldest on the island). The Old Port (Mandraki) offers a fantastic backdrop for an aperitif with a view of the illuminated Old Fortress in the evening.

Tip for the city stroll: Start at the Old Fortress, walk across the Spianada to the Liston, then into the alleys of the Campiello, to the Agios Spyridon Church, and to the New Port. Duration: 2–3 hours without museums.

★★★ Old Fortress (Palaio Frourio)

The Old Fortress sits atop a rocky peninsula east of the old town, separated from the mainland by an artificial canal (Contrafossa). Originally Byzantine (6th century), it was massively expanded by the Venetians and was one reason why Corfu was the only Greek island never conquered by the Ottomans.

The climb to the highest point is steep, but the panoramic view over the old town, the mainland, and the Albanian coast is breathtaking. Inside, the Anglican St. George's Church (Doric style, built by the British — looks like a Greek temple), barracks, and prisons. In summer, sound-and-light shows take place.

€6 (combined ticket with New Fortress: €10). April–October: 8 am–8 pm. November–March: 8:30 am–3:30 pm.

★★ New Fortress (Neo Frourio)

The New Fortress (1576–1645) stands at the northwestern edge of the old town and, despite its name, is only 30 years younger than the Old Fortress. Less visited, but more atmospheric: winding passages, underground tunnels, and a rooftop café with a grand view over the harbor. The fortress also houses a small ceramics exhibition and changing art installations.

€4 (or €10 combined ticket). Same hours as Old Fortress. The rooftop café often has better prices than the Liston cafés below.

The Achilleion is Empress Elisabeth's (Sissi's) summer palace, located 10 km south of Corfu Town in the village of Gastouri. The melancholic Austrian empress had it built in 1890–1892 as an escape from the Viennese court — a pompous neoclassical palace with a garden full of Greek god statues, dedicated to her favorite hero Achilles.

The garden is the highlight: terraced with views over Corfu's east coast, lined with statues of the nine muses, Hermes, and as a crowning glory, the "Dying Achilles" statue on the upper floor and the triumphant "Victorious Achilles" (11 m high!) at the highest point — the latter was installed by Kaiser Wilhelm II, who bought the palace after Sissi's assassination in 1898.

Inside: Sissi's private chapel, her writing room with a sea view, an opulent staircase with a painting of Achilles' triumph over Hector, and Wilhelm's ostentatious throne room. The museum tells the story of both eccentric residents — and the contrast between Sissi's romantic antiquity enthusiasm and Wilhelm's military megalomania is fascinating.

Entry: €10 (adults), €5 (reduced). April–October: 8 am–7:30 pm. November–March: 8:30 am–3:30 pm. Audio guide €3 (worth it for the background stories).

The Mon Repos Palace is located in a beautiful park on the Kanoni peninsula, 2 km south of the old town. Built in 1831 by British High Commissioner Sir Frederick Adam as a summer residence, it was later handed over to the Greek royal family. On June 10, 1921, Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh (the future husband of Queen Elizabeth II) was born here — a fact the Greeks recount with a mix of pride and amusement.

Today, the palace houses the Museum of Palaiopolis (€3) with archaeological finds from Corfu. More exciting than the museum, however, is the park itself: 258 hectares of lush vegetation with ancient cypresses, walking paths to the ruins of the Doric Temple of Hera (6th century BC) and the Temple of Artemis. The walk through the park down to the coast takes about 45 minutes and is one of the most beautiful city walks in Corfu.

Park: free, daily 8 am–7 pm. Museum: €3, Tue–Sun 8:30 am–3:30 pm.

The northeast coast of Corfu is the side of quiet elegance. Here, you look across the narrow channel to Albania — only 2 km away at the narrowest point. The mountains of the Albanian mainland form a dramatic backdrop, especially at sunset.

Kassiopi

The former fishing village (1,200 inhabitants) at the northeast cape is now an upscale small resort that has retained its charm. A horseshoe-shaped harbor with fishing boats and tavernas, above it the ruins of a Byzantine castle (13th century) overlooking the strait from Corfu to Albania. Nero is said to have sung here, Cicero visited, and Tiberius had a villa nearby.

Beaches: Bataria Beach (small, rocky, crystal clear, right on the edge of town) and Kalamionas Beach (pebbles, quieter, east of the town).

Agios Stefanos (Northeast)

Not to be confused with Agios Stefanos in the northwest! This tiny village consists of a handful of tavernas by the water and a boat dock. The view of Albania is the most beautiful here — on clear days, you can see the minarets of Saranda. Boat tours to Albania start here (day trip to Saranda/Butrint: from €35).

Kalami & Kouloura

Kalami is the village where the Durrell family lived in the 1930s — the White House (now a restaurant and holiday apartment) on the beach is world-famous from Gerald Durrell's books and the ITV series "The Durrells". The tavern on the ground floor serves fresh fish with a sea view — kitschy-touristy, but the location is truly magical.

Right next door is Kouloura — Corfu's most photogenic small harbor. Half a dozen fishing boats, a taverna, cypresses, crystal clear water. That's it. Perfect.

Paleokastritsa is Corfu's most spectacular coastal section and one of the most beautiful places in all of Greece. Six turquoise bays nestle against steep, densely wooded cliffs — the water has colors you usually only get with Photoshop: emerald green, turquoise, cobalt blue, sometimes all in the same bay.

Legend has it that Paleokastritsa is the land of the Phaeacians from Homer's Odyssey, where Odysseus was washed ashore after his shipwreck and Princess Nausicaa saved his heart. Whether Homer was right, no one knows — but the setting is epic enough for any heroic saga.

★★★ The Bays

The main bay (Agios Spyridon) has the largest sandy beach with sunbeds, tavernas, and boat rentals. But the real magic lies in the hidden bays, only accessible by boat: La Grotta Beach (tiny rocky bay with diving platforms and a bar carved into the rock), Ampelaki Bay, and the Blue Caves — sea grottos where the light makes the water glow unrealistically blue.

Boat rental: From €20/hour for a small motorboat (no license needed, 30 HP). This is the best way to experience Paleokastritsa — just chug from bay to bay, anchor in secluded coves, jump into the crystal-clear water. Whole day about €80–100 including fuel.

★★ Monastery of Theotokos

On the promontory above the main bay sits the Monastery of the Virgin Mary (founded in 1225, current building from the 17th/18th century). A few monks still live here. Inside, a small museum with Byzantine icons and a courtyard with bougainvillea. But the real reason to visit is the view from the terrace — one of the best in Corfu.

Free (appropriate clothing: knees and shoulders covered, wraps at the entrance). 7 am–1 pm and 3 pm–8 pm (lunch break!).

Angelokastro

The ruins of the Byzantine fortress Angelokastro (13th century) sit on the highest point above Paleokastritsa — a 30-minute steep climb rewarded with a 360° panorama over the entire west coast. On clear days, you can see as far as Italy. The castle was the last refuge of the Corfiots during Ottoman attacks and was never taken.

€3. April–October: 8:30 am–3:30 pm. The path is steep and rocky — sturdy footwear!

★★ Glyfada Beach

Corfu's best organized sandy beach on the west coast. Golden sand, imposing sandstone cliffs as a backdrop, clear water with good waves for bodyboarding. Sun loungers (8–10€/set), beach bars, water sports. Lively in summer, but not as crowded as the east coast beaches. The sunsets here are legendary.

Myrtiotissa Beach

Corfu's official nudist beach — and according to Lawrence Durrell "perhaps the most beautiful beach in the world". Nestled between high green cliffs, with golden sand and crystal-clear water. The steep access (gravel road, then steps) keeps the crowds away. No infrastructure — bring water and food. Even for non-nudists, one of the most beautiful beaches on the island (the southern section is textile-friendly).

Ermones Beach

Protected bay at the foot of a densely wooded valley. The beach itself is pebbly, but the surroundings are lush green. Some researchers suspect this is the beach from the Odyssey where Nausicaa found Odysseus. Golf course (18-hole) directly above.

Agios Gordios

Long, wide sandy beach on the southwest coast with the striking Ortholithi rock in the sea. More relaxed than Glyfada, family-friendly, with a few taverns on the beach. The famous Pink Palace Hostel attracts young backpackers — those seeking peace should head to the northern beach section.

Kavos — an honest warning

Kavos at the southern tip is Corfu's notorious party district — and frankly: not our thing. A single street full of neon bars where British 18-year-olds work through all-inclusive drinking binges. The beaches are mediocre, the restaurants optimized for fish & chips, and the atmosphere has about as much to do with Greece as Ballermann does with Mallorca. If that's your thing — no judgment. Everyone else: drive far away.

★ Lefkimmi

Only 4 km north of Kavos, but a different world. Lefkimmi is Corfu's second-largest town and feels as if tourism has forgotten it. A Venetian village with a river, bridges, churches, and taverns where only locals sit. The fishing port has charm, and the taverns serve fresh fish at local prices (fish platter from 8€).

★ Issos Beach & Korission Lagoon

On the southwest coast stretches an endless sandy beach next to the Korission Lagoon — a nature reserve with flamingos, herons, and turtles. The beach is windier than the sheltered bays of the west coast, but much quieter. Perfect for windsurfers and kitesurfers, or simply for long beach walks without crowds.

Cape Asprokavos (Arkoudillas)

The southern tip of Corfu: wild cliffs, an abandoned monastery, and the feeling of standing at the end of the world. No tourism, no infrastructure — just you, the cliffs, and the sea. Best with a car to the parking lot and then 20 minutes on foot.

Corfu's cuisine is unique in Greece — the Venetian and Italian tradition has created a fusion cuisine found nowhere else in the country. Pasta here is not a pizza accompaniment but a main dish. The local specialties:

• Sofrito — Veal schnitzel in garlic-vinegar-white wine sauce, Corfu's national dish
• Pastitsada — Braised rooster in tomato sauce with thick tube pasta
• Bourdeto — Spicy fish stew with paprika and onions
• Bianco — White fish poached in lemon, garlic, and potatoes
• Noumboulo — Smoked pork, marinated in wine
• Kumquat liqueur — Corfu's unique liqueur made from the Japanese dwarf orange

€ Budget

To Tavernaki tis Marinas · Solomou 20, Old Town
Hidden in an alley, only 6 tables. Marina cooks what the market offers: Moussaka, Pastitsada, grilled sardines. Everything homemade, portions huge, prices ridiculously low for the Old Town.
6–10€ · Mon–Sat 12–22 hrs.

To Dimarchio · Dimarcheiou Square
At the bustling Town Hall Square, lunch menu with salad, main course, and drink for 9€. Good Sofrito and Pastitsada. Locals mingle with tourists.
7–12€ · Daily 11–23 hrs.

€€ Mid-range

Rex · Kapodistriou 66 (Liston)
Since 1932 an institution on the Liston promenade. The terrace under the arcades is the best place for people-watching in Corfu Town. The cuisine: classic Corfiot with a modern touch. Sofrito, Pastitsada, and Bourdeto are among the best on the island. Wine selection with local drops.
14–25€ · Daily 10–24 hrs. · ★★

Etrusco · Dassia (9 km north)
Michelin-recommended, run by Greek TV chef Ettore Botrini. Creative Corfiot cuisine: deconstructed Pastitsada, Kumquat duck, seafood with a local twist. Beautiful garden, reservation required!
20–35€ · Tue–Sun 19–23 hrs. · ★★★

€€€ Upscale

The Venetian Well · Kremasti Square, Old Town
Corfu's most romantic restaurant: a medieval square with a Venetian well, candlelight, and a cuisine that combines Mediterranean fine dining with Corfiot ingredients. Tasting menu from 55€. Wine pairing from 35€. Reservation required, especially Friday/Saturday.
35–60€ · April–October: Tue–Sun 19–23:30 · ★★★

€ Budget (under 80€/night)

Hotel Hermes · G. Markora 14, Corfu Town
Clean, simple hotel in the middle of the Old Town. The rooms are small but functional, some with a balcony to the alley. Breakfast acceptable, staff friendly, location unbeatable — 2 minutes to the Liston, 5 to the Old Fortress.
55–75€/night (double room) · Year-round

Sunrock Hostel · Pelekas (West Coast)
Corfu's best hostel, on a hill with infinity pool and sunset view. Dorms (18–25€) and private rooms (50–70€). Young atmosphere, shuttle to the beach.
18–70€ · May–October

€€ Mid-range (80–180€/night)

Siora Vittoria · Padova 36, Corfu Town
Boutique hotel in a restored Venetian city palace. 16 individually decorated rooms with high ceilings, Murano chandeliers, and antiques. Small courtyard for breakfast. The most beautiful mid-range hotel in the Old Town.
100–160€/night (double room) · March–November

Bella Venezia · N. Zambeli 4, Corfu Town
Elegant hotel in a neoclassical building right on Spianada Square. 32 rooms, tastefully renovated, garden in the courtyard. Rich breakfast buffet. Perfect location.
90–150€/night (double room) · Year-round · ★★

€€€ Luxury (from 200€/night)

Grecotel Corfu Imperial · Kommeno Peninsula
The flagship resort on the exclusive Kommeno Peninsula, 12 km north of the city. Private beach, three pools, spa, five restaurants. Bungalows and villas in tropical gardens. Pure Corfu glamour — diplomats and celebrities stay here.
250–600€/night · April–October · ★★★

Grecotel Eva Palace · Kommeno
Adults-only hotel on the same peninsula. Quieter, more intimate, with its own beach and infinity pool over the bay. Modern design, excellent restaurant. Ideal for couples.
200–450€/night · May–October · ★★★

Domes Miramare · Moraitika
Luxury boutique hotel with private beach, Autograph Collection (Marriott). 113 suites, many with private pool. Three restaurants, spa, kids' club. Modern style, less classic than the Grecotel houses.
220–500€/night · May–October