Heraklion & Surroundings
Heraklion (Iraklion, Greek: Ηράκλειο) is with 175,000 inhabitants the largest city and capital of Crete — and unfortunately also the one most tourists want to leave as quickly as possible. At first glance, Heraklion is loud, chaotic, and ugly: concrete blocks from the 1960s, congested streets, no obvious charm. This is a mistake.
If you take one day, you will discover a fascinating city behind the rough exterior: The mighty Venetian fortress Koules at the harbor, one of the best archaeological collections in the world, a lively market street (1866 Street), excellent restaurants, and nightlife that is more authentic than in any tourist resort. Heraklion is also the perfect starting point for Knossos, the wine region, and the south coast.
Most flights land here — use the first and last day for the city instead of driving directly to the resort.
Heraklion City
★★ Koules Fortress (Rocca a Mare)
The massive Venetian sea fortress at the entrance of the old harbor is Heraklion's landmark. Built between 1523 and 1540, it withstood the Ottoman siege for 21 years (1648–1669) — one of the longest sieges in history. From the battlements, there is a fantastic view over the harbor, the old town, and on clear days to the island of Dia.
Inside, exhibition rooms with Venetian coats of arms, cannons, and information about the siege. The atmosphere in the evening at sunset is magical.
Admission: 4€ (Nov–March: 2€). Daily 8:30 am–7:30 pm (summer), 8:30 am–3:30 pm (winter). Often closed on Mondays in winter.
★ Lion Square (Plateia Venizelou) & Morosini Fountain
The bustling heart of the city. The Venetian fountain from 1628 with its four stone lions is a meeting point for locals and tourists. Surrounding cafes (expensive and touristy — better just for looking). The Plateia Eleftherias two blocks further is more authentic.
★ Market Street 1866 (Odos 1866)
Heraklion's historic market street is a feast for the senses: mountains of herbs, spices, Cretan honey, Graviera cheese, Raki bottles, dried herbal teas, and olive oil soap. In between, butcher shops, fishmongers, and small snack bars. Most lively in the morning. Prices can be negotiated, but most are fair.
Mon–Sat 8 am–2 pm (some stalls also in the afternoon). Closed on Sundays.
★★★ Archaeological Museum Heraklion
The most important museum in Greece after the National Museum in Athens — and for the Minoan civilization the most important in the world. Two floors, 27 galleries, chronologically arranged from the Neolithic (7,000 BC) to the Roman period.
The highlights not to be missed:
- Snake Goddess — the iconic faience figure from Knossos (ca. 1600 BC), with snakes in both hands
- Disk of Phaistos — a mysterious clay disk with 241 signs in spiral form, still undeciphered
- Bull-Leaping Fresco — the famous fresco from Knossos showing acrobats leaping over a bull
- Bee Jewelry from Malia — a golden masterpiece of Minoan goldsmithing
- Lily Prince Relief — the most iconic image of Minoan culture
- Sarcophagus of Agia Triada — unique painted stone sarcophagus with sacrificial scenes
Plan at least 2–3 hours. The audio guide (5€) is absolutely worth it — without context, the exhibits are just pretty pots.
Admission: 12€ (April–Oct), 6€ (Nov–March). Combo ticket with Knossos: 20€ (saves 7€!). Daily 8 am–8 pm (summer), Mon 11 am–5 pm, Tue–Sun 9 am–4 pm (winter).
💡 Tipp
Definitely buy the combo ticket Museum + Knossos (20€ instead of 27€ separately). Visit the museum first and then Knossos — this way you understand what you see in the ruins. The frescoes in Knossos are copies; the originals are here.
Knossos — Palace of the Minoans★★★
This is where Europe began. The Palace of Knossos was the center of the Minoan civilization — Europe's first high culture, which flourished from around 2700 to 1450 BC. While the Egyptians were building their pyramids, Knossos already had running water, sewage systems, multi-story buildings, and its own script (Linear A, still undeciphered).
The palace was gigantic: an estimated 1,300 rooms on up to five floors, throne room, theater complex, huge storage rooms (Pithoi), workshops, and cult rooms. The labyrinth of corridors likely inspired the myth of the Minotaur — half man, half bull, trapped in a labyrinth under the palace of King Minos.
The excavations by the Briton Sir Arthur Evans (1900–1931) are controversial: Evans reconstructed large parts of the palace with concrete and repainted the frescoes — according to his own ideas. Archaeologists still debate whether this was genius or vandalism. Undeniably, the reconstructions make the palace vivid and understandable, rather than just showing foundations.
Must-See
- Throne Room — Europe's oldest throne still in place (alabaster, ca. 1450 BC). The room with the griffin frescoes is surprisingly intimate for a "throne room"
- Grand Staircase — Evans' most impressive reconstruction: four floors built into the hill, with light wells and columns in typical Minoan red and black
- Bull-Leaping Fresco — Copy of the famous original (in the museum). Acrobats leaping over a galloping bull — religious ritual or sport?
- Queen's Room — with the beautiful dolphin fresco and its own bathroom with a bathtub (!) — 3,500 years old
- Storage Rooms — huge Pithoi (clay jars up to 1.5 m high) for oil, wine, and grain. The economic power of the palace is immediately apparent
- Theater Complex — steps for about 500 spectators. Oldest known theater complex in Europe
Planning Your Visit
The palace is only 5 km south of Heraklion. Bus No. 2 departs every 20 min. from Bus Station A (1.70€, 20 min.). Taxi approx. 10€. Parking on-site (free in low season, 5€ in summer).
Allow 1.5–2.5 hours on-site. The circular route is about 1.5 km and mostly paved, but hilly. Little shade — bring sun protection and water!
Admission: 15€ (April–Oct), 8€ (Nov–March). Combo ticket with museum: 20€. Daily 8 am–8 pm (summer), 9 am–3 pm (winter). Last entry 30 min. before closing.
💡 Tipp
Arrive at 8 am when it opens — by 10 am the cruise buses arrive, and it becomes unbearably crowded. A guide (approx. 10€/person in a group, 80–120€ privately) is well worth it — without explanation, the ruins are just walls and concrete pillars. Alternative: Download the "Clio Muse" audio guide app (6€) in advance.
Achtung
No shade on the site! Bring sunscreen, a hat, and at least 1 liter of water. In high summer (July/August), it easily reaches 40°C+ on the site. Sturdy shoes recommended — the ground is uneven.
Wine Villages & Wine Routes
Crete has a 4,000-year-old wine tradition — the oldest in Europe. The Minoans were already exporting wine to Egypt. After centuries of decline, Cretan wine has been experiencing a renaissance since the 1990s, led by a new generation of ambitious winemakers rediscovering native grape varieties.
The Most Important Cretan Grape Varieties
- Vidiano — the discovery of recent years: full-bodied, aromatic white wine with tropical notes. Almost extinct, now Crete's star variety
- Vilana — light, fresh white wine, perfect with fish. The classic everyday variety
- Kotsifali — fruity, soft red wine, often blended with Mandilaria
- Mandilaria — deep red, tannin-rich wine that adds structure to blends
- Liatiko — ancient variety for sweet and dry red wines, complex and elegant
Wine Region Archanes-Peza (15–25 km south of Heraklion)
The best-known wine region of Crete. The villages of Archanes and Peza are located at an altitude of 400–600 m, surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. Archanes itself is a beautifully restored village with cobblestone streets, blooming bougainvillea, and excellent taverns.
Wineries to Visit:
- Lyrarakis (Alagni) — Family winery that rediscovered Vidiano and Dafni. Tasting 10–15€, with tour 20€. Beautiful terrace. Advance booking required
- Boutari (Skalani) — Large, professional winery with a modern visitor center. Tasting from 8€. No advance booking necessary
- Stilianou (Kounavi) — Small organic winery, very personal, the owner often leads the tour himself. Tasting 10€ with snacks. Reservation by phone
- Domaine Paterianakis (Melesses) — Boutique winery with award-winning Vidiano. By appointment only
CretAquarium (Gournes, 15 km east of Heraklion)
The largest aquarium in the eastern Mediterranean — and a lifesaver for rainy days or midday heat. 60 tanks with 2,500 organisms from the Mediterranean: sharks, rays, turtles, jellyfish, seahorses. The large shark tank (900,000 liters) is impressive. Especially good for families.
Admission: 12€ (adults), 8€ (children 5–17), under 5 free. Daily 9:30 am–9 pm (summer), 9:30 am–5 pm (winter).
💡 Tipp
Do a wine route as a half-day trip from Heraklion: visit Archanes → lunch in a tavern → visit 1-2 wineries. Do NOT drive yourself if you taste — organized wine tours from Heraklion cost 50–80€/person including transport and 3 wineries.