The Highlands — Glencoe & Loch Ness

The Scottish Highlands are one of the last great wildernesses in Europe — endless moors, dramatic glens (valleys), rugged Munros (mountains over 914 m — there are 282 of them, and the Scots collect them like stamps) and a silence that grips you after the hustle and bustle of the cities. More red deer live here than people.

Glencoe — Scotland's Most Dramatic Valley

Glen Coe is the valley you know from every Scotland photo: steep mountain slopes rising on either side of the A82, waterfalls cascading from the cliffs in the rain, and an atmosphere that is both majestic and melancholic. In 1692, the Massacre of Glencoe took place here — government troops of Clan Campbell murdered 38 members of Clan MacDonald after enjoying their hospitality. The breach of trust weighs more heavily to this day than the number of dead.

For hikers: The Three Sisters (three distinctive mountain peaks) offer day hikes of all difficulty levels. The Lost Valley (Hidden Valley of the MacDonalds, 4 km, 2–3 hours) is the most popular hike — a hidden high valley between the mountains.

Loch Ness

Loch Ness needs no introduction — the 37 km long, up to 230 m deep lake is home to the world's most famous lake monster. Does Nessie exist? Science says no (a 2019 DNA test found no unknown species), but the Scots like to leave the question open — and that's a good thing. The Loch Ness Centre in Drumnadrochit (£8.95) tells the story of sightings and expeditions with a charming mix of science and a wink.

More beautiful than the tourist village of Drumnadrochit: The ruins of Urquhart Castle on the west shore, from which you have the classic Loch Ness view. The B862 on the less traveled east shore is the insider tip — quieter, wilder, with waterfalls (Foyers Falls) and panoramic points.

Fort William & Ben Nevis

Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis (1,345 m, the highest mountain in Britain) is the gateway to the western Highlands. Climbing Ben Nevis via the Mountain Track (17 km, 7–9 hours) is doable in good weather, but the mountain has its own weather — fog, snowfields, and temperature drops are possible even in summer. From Fort William, the Jacobite Steam Train (the "Harry Potter Train") runs over the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct to Mallaig — one of the most photogenic train routes in the world.