Delhi

Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad) is the oldest part of the city—built from 1639 by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, the builder of the Taj Mahal. Here pulses the India that many travelers seek: narrow alleys full of rickshaws, spice merchants, street kitchens, craftsmen, and crowds. It is loud, cramped, chaotic, and absolutely intoxicating.

The heart of Old Delhi is Chandni Chowk, one of the oldest and busiest shopping streets in Asia. Once a broad boulevard with a canal in the middle and moonlight reflecting in the water (hence the name: "Moonlight Square"), it is now a bustling commercial street with specialized bazaars: Kinari Bazaar for wedding jewelry and brocade ribbons, Dariba Kalan for silver jewelry, Khari Baoli for spices (the largest spice market in Asia—the scent is overwhelming).

At the eastern end of Chandni Chowk rises the Red Fort (Lal Qila), the former residence of the Mughal emperors and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The massive red sandstone walls stretch over 2.5 km. Inside: the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audiences), the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences) with the famous inscription "If there is a paradise on earth, it is here," the royal baths, and the Pearl Mosque. On August 15, Independence Day, the Prime Minister delivers his address to the nation here.

Directly opposite the Red Fort lies the Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque. Built 1650–1656 by Shah Jahan, it accommodates 25,000 worshippers. The climb to the southern minaret rewards with a panoramic view over all of Old Delhi. Knees and shoulders must be covered, and cloths can be borrowed at the entrance.

New Delhi is the modern counterpoint to Old Delhi—broad boulevards, green parks, and imperial architecture, designed by British architects Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker from 1911, when the colonial capital was moved here from Calcutta.

The India Gate is Delhi's landmark: a 42-meter-high triumphal arch commemorating the 70,000 Indian soldiers who fell in World War I for the British Empire. In the evenings, the monument is spectacularly illuminated. The surrounding lawn area (Rajpath, now Kartavya Path) then transforms into Delhi's living room: families picnic, ice cream vendors do business, and couples stroll in the evening light. On January 26 (Republic Day), the impressive military parade takes place here.

Humayun's Tomb (1570) is the architectural model for the Taj Mahal—and for some visitors, even more beautiful because it is less crowded. The tomb of the second Mughal emperor stands amidst a geometric Charbagh garden (four quadrants, symbolic of paradise) and is a masterpiece of Persian-Indian architecture. UNESCO World Heritage since 1993. The perfect proportions, the red sandstone with white marble inlays, and the garden make it one of Delhi's most beautiful buildings.

The Qutub Minar in southern Delhi is a 72.5-meter-high victory tower from the 12th century—the oldest surviving structure in Delhi and the tallest brick minaret in the world. The surrounding complex includes India's first mosque (Quwwat-ul-Islam) and the enigmatic Iron Pillar, which has not rusted for 1,600 years. UNESCO World Heritage.

The Lotus Temple (Bahá'í House of Worship) is an architectural masterpiece: 27 free-standing marble petals form a giant lotus blossom. The temple is open to visitors of all religions and non-religions—inside, there is absolute silence. A surprisingly peaceful place amidst the chaos of Delhi.

Connaught Place (officially Rajiv Chowk) is the commercial heart of Delhi — a circular plaza with white colonial arcades, built in the 1930s. The concentric layout with its three rings (Inner, Middle, Outer Circle) houses upscale shops, restaurants, cinemas, and the bustling activity of the middle class.

Around Connaught Place, Delhi's vibrant café and restaurant scene has developed. From traditional institutions like Saravana Bhavan (authentic South Indian cuisine — the best Dosa in Delhi for ₹150) and Wenger's Bakery (since 1926, legendary patties and cakes) to trendy rooftop bars and international restaurants, the culinary range is enormous.

Beneath the plaza lies the Palika Bazaar, an underground market built in the 1970s. Once Delhi's shopping hotspot, it is now somewhat run-down but still offers cheap electronics, clothing, and curiosities. Bargaining is a must — the first price is always three times inflated.

From Connaught Place, you can walk to the Jantar Mantar, an 18th-century astronomical observatory with giant stone instruments that measure the sun's position and sidereal time — a fascinating relic of Mughal science. Right next to it is the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, a magnificent Sikh temple with a golden dome and a sacred water tank. The Langar (free community kitchen) here provides thousands of people with free meals daily — regardless of religion, caste, or origin. Visitors are warmly welcomed to join in the meal.

Delhi is the street food capital of India—and thus one of the best street food cities in the world. The culinary tradition ranges from Mughal cuisine (kebabs, biryanis, naan) to North Indian classics (Chole Bhature, Rajma Chawal) to snacks that are only found in Delhi.

The Legendary Addresses

• Paranthe Wali Gali (Chandni Chowk): The "Alley of Parathas"—a narrow lane in Old Delhi where stuffed flatbreads have been fried in ghee since the 19th century. The most famous are filled with cauliflower, potato, radish, or even banana. A paratha set with sides: 60–100 ₹ (~0.70–1.10 €).
• Karim's (Jama Masjid): Since 1913, this institution has served top-notch Mughal cuisine. The ancestors of the owners cooked for the Mughal emperor. Mutton Korma, Seekh Kebab, Chicken Jahangiri—all made from recipes passed down through generations. Main course: 200–400 ₹.
• Old Famous Jalebi Wala (Chandni Chowk): For over 100 years, jalebi (fried dough spirals in sugar syrup) has been prepared here in huge pans. Best in the morning when they are fresh and hot. 50 ₹ per portion.
• Natraj Dahi Bhalle (Chandni Chowk): Perfect Dahi Bhalle (fried lentil dumplings in yogurt sauce with tamarind chutney). A dish that unites the diversity of Indian flavors on one plate. 60 ₹.

Delhi Specialties You Must Try

• Chole Bhature: Chickpea curry with fried flatbreads—Delhi's unofficial breakfast. Best at Sita Ram Diwan Chand (Paharganj). 60–80 ₹.
• Butter Chicken & Naan: Invented in Delhi! Moti Mahal in Daryaganj claims the invention (1947). Creamy tomato curry with tender chicken. 250–400 ₹.
• Chaat: A collective term for spicy-sweet-sour snacks. Gol Gappe (crispy balls with spiced water), Aloo Tikki (potato patties), Papdi Chaat. Best in Bengali Market or Haldiram's.
• Kulfi: Indian ice cream, denser and creamier than Western ice cream. Traditionally with saffron, pistachio, or mango. Available on every street corner for 30–50 ₹.

The Taj Mahal needs no introduction—it is simply one of the most beautiful structures ever created by human hands. Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan had it built from 1632–1653 as a mausoleum for his favorite wife Mumtaz Mahal. 20,000 workers, 1,000 elephants, and gemstones from all over Asia created a monument of white Makrana marble that changes color depending on the time of day: pink at sunrise, dazzling white at noon, golden at sunset, silvery by moonlight.

Agra is only 200 km south of Delhi and is easily doable as a day trip. The fastest way is the Gatimaan Express (departure Delhi Hazrat Nizamuddin 8:10 AM, arrival Agra 9:50 AM, return 5:50 PM). Alternatively: Private driver (3–4 hours, 4,000–6,000 ₹ return) or organized tour.

The complex includes, besides the main mausoleum, the mosque (left), the guest house (right, mirror image of the mosque), the monumental main gate (Darwaza-i-Rauza), and the Charbagh garden with its famous reflecting pool. The detail work is breathtaking: semi-precious stones (carnelian, lapis lazuli, malachite, jasper) are inlaid in the marble (Pietra-dura technique), floral patterns of incredible delicacy cover every inch.

Besides the Taj Mahal, Agra is also worth visiting for the Agra Fort (UNESCO World Heritage, 600 ₹), a massive red sandstone fortress where Shah Jahan spent his last years as a prisoner of his own son—with a view of the Taj Mahal, the tomb of his beloved wife. A tragically romantic place. Also worth seeing: Itmad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), a smaller mausoleum with exquisite marble work.