Kerala

The Backwaters are Kerala's crown jewel — a 900-kilometer network of lagoons, lakes, canals, and rivers that runs parallel to the Malabar Coast. It's a world of water, rice, and coconut palms: Villages only accessible by boat, rice fields reaching the water's edge, and a tranquility found nowhere else in India.

The classic backwaters experience is a ride on a Kettuvallam (traditional houseboat, literally: "tied boat"). These converted rice barges have one to three bedrooms, a sun deck, a kitchen with a cook, and a crew of two to three people. As you lie on the deck and the landscape glides by, the cook prepares freshly caught fish with coconut curry and rice. It is one of the most relaxing experiences India has to offer.

Houseboat Options

• Standard Houseboat (1 bedroom): From 6,000 ₹ (~68 €) per night (for 2 people including full board). Simple but comfortable — AC bedroom, sun deck, traditional kitchen.
• Premium Houseboat: 8,000–15,000 ₹ — larger, better equipped, often with a rooftop jacuzzi.
• Luxury Houseboat: 15,000–30,000 ₹ — private pool, butler, gourmet chef. The "Oberoi Vrinda" offers the most luxurious experience.

The most popular route starts in Alleppey (Alappuzha) and leads through the Vembanad Lake into the narrow canals around Kumarakom. Some boats continue to Kollam (8 hours). The narrower, less traveled canals offer the more authentic experience — ask your boatman for the "small canals".

A cheaper alternative to a private boat is the public ferries that run between Alleppey and Kottayam (10–20 ₹, 2.5 hours). Even more intimate: A canoe tour through the narrowest canals (3–4 hours, from 500 ₹ per person), reaching villages too narrow for houseboats.

Kochi is Kerala's most cosmopolitan city — a trading port that has attracted Arabs, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch, and British for over 600 years. The result is a fascinating cultural cocktail best experienced in Fort Kochi, the historic port district on a peninsula in the harbor.

The landmark of Fort Kochi is the Chinese Fishing Nets (Cheena Vala) on the shore — huge, tiltable net constructions introduced by Chinese traders in the 14th century. At sunset, when the nets are silhouetted against the orange sky, India's most iconic photos are created. Right next to them, fishermen sell their fresh catch — you buy the fish and have it prepared in one of the adjacent food stalls (from 200 ₹).

Fort Kochi's streets are an open-air museum: The St. Francis Church (1503) is the oldest European church in India — Vasco da Gama was originally buried here in 1524. The Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica (1558) impresses with pastel ceiling paintings. The Paradesi Synagogue (1568) in the Jewish quarter of Mattancherry is the oldest active synagogue in the Commonwealth — with hand-painted Chinese floor tiles, none of which are alike.

The Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace, 1557) — despite the name built by the Portuguese and renovated by the Dutch — houses some of Kerala's best murals: Scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata in vivid colors. The alleys around the palace are full of antique shops, spice stores, and small cafés.

In recent years, Fort Kochi has also developed into the art capital of South India: The Kochi-Muziris Biennale (every two years, December–March) is the largest art exhibition in Southeast Asia — international artworks in historic warehouses, churches, and open spaces throughout the district.

Munnar is Kerala's hill station — located at 1,600 meters in the Western Ghats, surrounded by an endless carpet of tea plantations stretching over gentle hills as far as the eye can see. The air is cool and fresh (15–25 °C, a blessing after the coastal heat), and the landscape is among the most beautiful in South India.

The British introduced tea cultivation to Munnar in 1880, and the region now produces a large portion of Kerala's famous tea. The Tata Tea Museum (KDHP Museum, 200 ₹) tells the story of tea cultivation with historical machines and offers tastings — here you learn the difference between CTC and Orthodox Tea. The surrounding plantations offer guided tours (from 200 ₹), where you can watch the pickers at work and buy fresh tea directly from the source (1 kg of high-quality tea: 300–800 ₹).

Above the tea plantations lies the Eravikulam National Park, home to the Nilgiri Tahr — a rare mountain goat found only in the Western Ghats. The park is also the site of the famous Neelakurinji bloom: Every 12 years (next: 2030), the slopes turn into a sea of blue-violet flowers — a natural spectacle that attracts hundreds of thousands.

Around Munnar, there are excellent hiking opportunities: The hike to Meesapulimala (2,640 m, the second-highest peak in South India) is challenging but rewarding. The Top Station (1,700 m) offers a panoramic view over the Western Ghats to the Tamil Nadu side. The Mattupetty Dam and Echo Point are popular half-day trips.

Varkala Beach

Varkala is Kerala's most spectacular beach destination — not because of the beach itself (it's beautiful, but not exceptional), but because of the dramatic red cliffs that rise 15 meters above the sea. Along the cliff edge, restaurants, cafés, and shops line up, all with panoramic views of the Arabian Sea and the breaking waves. At sunset, it's breathtaking.

The beach below the cliffs (Papanasam Beach) is considered sacred — Hindus come here for ritual baths. At the northern end lies the Janardhana Swamy Temple, a 2,000-year-old Vishnu temple. The atmosphere in Varkala is a pleasant mix of backpacker relaxation and Hindu pilgrimage culture. Yoga retreats, Ayurveda massages, and surf courses (yes, in Kerala!) complete the offerings.

Alleppey (Alappuzha)

Alleppey is often referred to as the "Venice of the East" — perhaps a bit exaggerated, but the city at the confluence of numerous canals and lagoons has its own charm. It is primarily a starting point for backwater tours (→ see Backwaters chapter), but the city itself is also worth a visit.

The Alleppey Beach is a long, wide sandy beach with a historic lighthouse and pier — little visited and perfect for a stroll. The city center has charming canals, colonial warehouses, and the Mullackal Rajeshwari Temple. The true magic lies in the village canals south and east of the city: Here you paddle through quiet waterways, past rice fields, coconut palms, and villages where life has been water-bound for centuries.

In August, the legendary Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race takes place on Punnamada Lake — a race with 30-meter-long snake boats powered by over 100 rowers simultaneously. Tens of thousands of spectators cheer on the teams. It is one of the most exciting sporting events in India.

The Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary around the Periyar reservoir in the Western Ghats is one of the best wildlife reserves in South India — and one of the few where you have a realistic chance of seeing wild elephants up close.

The park covers 925 km² of tropical rainforest at elevations between 900 and 1,800 meters. The Periyar Lake at its center is the heart: In the mornings and evenings, herds of elephants come to the shore to drink and bathe — an unforgettable sight. The park also hosts tigers (rarely seen), gaur (wild buffalo, very common), sambar deer, langurs, giant squirrels, and over 260 bird species.

Safari Options

• Boat ride on Periyar Lake: The easiest way to experience the park. KTDC boats (150 ₹, 1.5 hours) operate in the mornings (7:30) and afternoons (2:00). Elephant sightings on the morning ride are frequent. Book in advance!
• Nature Walk (guided hike): 3–4 hours trekking in the park's fringe area with an armed ranger. Closer to nature than the boat ride, but fewer large animal sightings. 300 ₹.
• Bamboo Rafting: Half-day tour on bamboo rafts through remote parts of the lake. Excellent for bird watching. 1,500 ₹.
• Tiger Trail (overnight trekking): 2-day hike deep into the park with overnight camping. The most intense experience — with a chance of tiger tracks, but very rarely the animal itself. 5,000 ₹.

The base for Periyar visits is the town of Thekkady (Kumily) on the park's edge. Here you'll find a good selection of hotels (from 800 ₹), spice shops (Cardamom Hills — the region produces the world's best cardamom), and spice plantation tours in the surrounding area.