Old Delhi: Chandni Chowk & Red Fort★★★
Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad) is the oldest part of the city—built from 1639 by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, the builder of the Taj Mahal. Here pulses the India that many travelers seek: narrow alleys full of rickshaws, spice merchants, street kitchens, craftsmen, and crowds. It is loud, cramped, chaotic, and absolutely intoxicating.
The heart of Old Delhi is Chandni Chowk, one of the oldest and busiest shopping streets in Asia. Once a broad boulevard with a canal in the middle and moonlight reflecting in the water (hence the name: "Moonlight Square"), it is now a bustling commercial street with specialized bazaars: Kinari Bazaar for wedding jewelry and brocade ribbons, Dariba Kalan for silver jewelry, Khari Baoli for spices (the largest spice market in Asia—the scent is overwhelming).
At the eastern end of Chandni Chowk rises the Red Fort (Lal Qila), the former residence of the Mughal emperors and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The massive red sandstone walls stretch over 2.5 km. Inside: the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audiences), the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences) with the famous inscription "If there is a paradise on earth, it is here," the royal baths, and the Pearl Mosque. On August 15, Independence Day, the Prime Minister delivers his address to the nation here.
Directly opposite the Red Fort lies the Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque. Built 1650–1656 by Shah Jahan, it accommodates 25,000 worshippers. The climb to the southern minaret rewards with a panoramic view over all of Old Delhi. Knees and shoulders must be covered, and cloths can be borrowed at the entrance.
💡 Tipp
Start at 8 AM at the Red Fort (opens at 9:30), then stroll through Chandni Chowk and Khari Baoli (spice market) and finish the morning at Jama Masjid. In the afternoon, Old Delhi becomes unbearably crowded. A cycle rickshaw tour through the alleys is the best way to experience the labyrinth (around 200–300 ₹ for 1 hour).
Achtung
Old Delhi is a stronghold of pickpockets and scammers. Keep your valuables close to your body (waist pouch under your shirt). Rickshaw drivers will try to take you to "their" shops—insist on your destination or get out.
