Genoa (Genova)

Genoa is Italy's most underrated big city. The former maritime republic, home of Christopher Columbus and rival of Venice, has the largest medieval city center in Europe: A labyrinth of alleys (Caruggi) where palaces, churches, delicatessen shops, and occasional shabby corners mix. Genoa is not polished — it is rough, authentic, and fascinating.

Palazzi dei Rolli ★★★

Genoa's UNESCO World Heritage: 42 Renaissance and Baroque palaces of noble families, which served as official quarters for state guests from the 16th century. The most splendid: Palazzo Rosso (paintings by Van Dyck, Dürer, Veronese), Palazzo Bianco (Caravaggio, Rubens), and Palazzo Doria-Tursi (Paganini's violin!). All three on Via Garibaldi, combo ticket 9 €. Twice a year (Rolli Days in May and October), many of the usually private palaces open their doors.

Porto Antico ★★

The old port was redesigned by Renzo Piano (Genoa's most famous son): The Acquario di Genova (27 €, the largest aquarium in Europe) is the top family destination, the Bigo (panoramic elevator, 5 €) offers a harbor panorama, and the old town begins right behind the port.

Culinary: Pesto alla Genovese

Genoa is the home of pesto — and here it tastes a hundred times better than anywhere else. The original: Basil from Prà (a Genoese suburb with the most aromatic basil), pine nuts, garlic, Pecorino + Parmigiano, Ligurian olive oil, coarse sea salt. Pounded in a mortar (not in a blender!). Served with: Trofie (short, twisted pasta) or Trenette (Ligurian linguine), served with potato pieces and green beans. Also try the Focaccia di Recco (paper-thin dough with melted Stracchino cheese) — one of the most ingenious inventions of Ligurian cuisine.