Sardinia

The Emerald Coast in northeastern Sardinia is the island's most famous (and expensive) stretch of coastline. Developed in the 1960s by the Aga Khan as a luxury destination, it sparkles with marinas, 5-star hotels, and exclusive beach clubs. Porto Cervo is the center — during the summer months, the international high society gathers here.

But the true attraction is the beaches: The Spiaggia del Principe (white sand, turquoise water, framed by rocks), the Spiaggia Capriccioli (two small bays with granite rocks), and the Spiaggia di Liscia Ruja (the longest and most family-friendly beach of the Costa Smeralda) are among the most beautiful in Europe.

Budget Reality: The Costa Smeralda is absurdly expensive in high season (July/August): Hotels from €300–500/night, sun umbrella + lounger on the beach €30–60, a beach lunch from €40. For Emerald Coast beaches without Emerald Coast prices: Stay in Olbia or Arzachena and drive to the beaches.

Sardinia's capital surprises: A vibrant university town with a fortress old town (Castello) on the hill, one of Italy's most beautiful city beaches (Poetto, 8 km long, right outside the city gates) and a burgeoning gastro scene.

Castello ★★

The medieval upper town with the Cathedral, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Sardinian bronzetti, Phoenician artifacts, nuraghe finds, €5) and the Bastioni di Saint Remy — a terrace with the best panoramic view over the city, harbor, and the Gulf of Cagliari. At sunset, all of Cagliari gathers here.

Flamingos in the City Area

The Stagno di Molentargius — a saltwater lagoon in the middle of the city area — is home to one of the largest flamingo colonies in the Mediterranean. Thousands of pink flamingos wading through the shallow water, with the cityscape in the background. Free access, best in the morning or evening.

Dining in Cagliari

The Mercato di San Benedetto is the largest covered market in Italy: Fish (tuna, swordfish, octopus), Sardinian bread (Pane Carasau), cheese (Pecorino Sardo), and sausage (Salsiccia Sarda). Upstairs: food stalls preparing freshly bought goods.

Sardinia is home to one of the most enigmatic prehistoric cultures of the Mediterranean: the Nuragic culture (1900–238 BC). Over 7,000 nuraghes — conical stone towers made of massive basalt, without mortar — are scattered across the island. Their exact function is still debated today: Fortresses? Temples? Astronomical observatories? Seats of power?

Su Nuraxi di Barumini ★★★

The only UNESCO World Heritage nuraghe and the most impressive: A central tower (18 m high), surrounded by four corner towers and a ring wall, plus an entire village with dozens of round huts. The tour (only with a guide, €14) explains the architecture and life of the Nuragic people. The site is located near Barumini in the interior (1h from Cagliari).

Other Notable Nuraghes

• Nuraghe Santu Antine (near Torralba) — The "King of Nuraghes", a monumental three-tower complex with the highest preserved tower (17 m).
• Nuraghe Losa (near Abbasanta) — Well-preserved, less visited, atmospheric.
• Giant's Tombs (Tombe dei Giganti) — Monumental collective graves with steles up to 4 m high. The Tomba di Coddu Vecchiu near Arzachena is particularly impressive.

Sardinia has some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe — and the variety is enormous: from Caribbean-white sandy bays to dramatic cliffs to lonely dune landscapes.

Top 10 Beaches

• La Pelosa (Stintino) ★★★ — Sardinia's most famous beach: white sand, turquoise shallow water, behind it the island of Asinara. Limited visitor numbers in summer (ticket €3.50 online). Come early!
• Cala Goloritze ★★★ — Only accessible by boat or on foot (2h descent!). A limestone needle rises 148 m from the water, the sea is crystal clear. UNESCO natural monument.
• Cala Luna ★★★ — Crescent-shaped bay with caves, white sand, and turquoise water. By boat from Cala Gonone (€15) or on foot (3h).
• Spiaggia di Tuerredda ★★ — Turquoise lagoon with an offshore island in the south. Perfect for snorkeling.
• Spiaggia Rosa (Budelli) ★★ — The legendary "pink beach" in the La Maddalena Archipelago. Entry prohibited (nature reserve!), but viewing from the boat is allowed.
• Is Arutas ★★ — No sand, but quartz grains: the beach consists of tiny, round, white pebbles. Unique and beautiful.
• Cala Brandinchi ★★ — "Little Tahiti": shallow, warm water, fine sand, pine grove behind. Ideal for families.
• Spiaggia di Piscinas ★★ — Wild dune landscape on the west coast (dunes up to 60 m high!), almost deserted.
• Spiaggia del Principe ★★ — Costa Smeralda at its best: granite rocks, emerald green water, fine sand.
• Cala Coticcio ★★ — "Tahiti of Sardinia" on the island of Caprera (La Maddalena Archipelago). Only accessible by boat.

Away from the coasts lies a Sardinia that hardly any tourist ever gets to see: the Gennargentu Mountains (Punta La Marmora, 1,834 m), the Barbagia (shepherd culture that even resisted the Romans) and the Ogliastra (spectacular gorges and karst landscapes).

Orgosolo ★★

The famous "bandit village" in the Barbagia is now known for its murals: over 150 political wall paintings on the house walls, addressing Sardinian history, social injustice, and international protest. An open-air museum of counterculture.

Gola Su Gorropu ★★

Europe's deepest canyon: rock walls up to 500 m high, only a few meters wide at the bottom. The hike to the entrance (2h from Ponte Sa Barva) is already spectacular. In the canyon itself (entry €5, guide recommended) you climb over boulders in a surreal landscape.

Blue Zone: The Secret of Longevity

The Barbagia is one of five "Blue Zones" worldwide — regions where people live exceptionally long lives. The recipe: Sardinian diet (Pecorino, legumes, red wine from the Cannonau grape), physical work, strong community, and a stress-free life. In villages like Villagrande Strisaili, there is a disproportionately high number of centenarians.

Sardinia's cuisine is shepherd's cuisine and fisherman's cuisine — simple, hearty, with ingredients that come directly from the landscape.

Classics

• Pane Carasau — Paper-thin, crispy flatbread (also "Carta di Musica" — sheet music). Eaten drizzled with olive oil, or as Pane Frattau softened in broth and egg.
• Culurgiones — Sardinian ravioli with potato-Pecorino-mint filling and an artfully braided closure. Every woman folds them differently.
• Porceddu — Suckling pig on a spit, turned for hours over myrtle wood. THE Sardinian feast dish.
• Bottarga — Dried, pressed mullet roe. Sliced thinly or grated over pasta (Spaghetti alla Bottarga). A taste like the sea, concentrated. Expensive delicacy (from €80/kg).
• Fregola con Arselle — Sardinian hard wheat balls (similar to couscous) with clams in tomato broth.
• Seadas — Fried pastries with melted Pecorino, drizzled with bitter honey. Sweet-salty-cheesy: the perfect dessert.

Wine

Cannonau (Grenache) is Sardinia's number one red wine — tannin-rich, full-bodied, allegedly partly responsible for the longevity of the Sardinians. Vermentino di Gallura DOCG is the best white wine (mineral, herbal, perfect with fish). Carignano del Sulcis from the southwest coast is an insider tip: deep red, complex, affordable.

Getting There

Flight: Cagliari (CAG), Olbia (OLB), and Alghero (AHO). Many direct flights from Germany, especially in summer (Ryanair, easyJet, Eurowings). From €40 one way.

Ferry: From Civitavecchia (Rome) to Olbia (5–8h, from €35), from Genoa to Olbia/Porto Torres (10–12h night ferry, from €40), from Livorno to Olbia (8h, from €35). Providers: Tirrenia, Moby, Grimaldi, GNV.

Getting Around

A rental car is absolutely essential. Sardinia has no rail network (except the Trenino Verde tourist train) and a sparse bus network (ARST). Distances are large: Cagliari–Olbia 270 km (3h), Cagliari–Alghero 230 km (2.5h). The roads are good, but in the interior winding and slow. Caution: Free-roaming sheep and goats on the roads are not uncommon!

Best Travel Time

May–June and September–October. July/August is hot, expensive, and crowded on the Costa Smeralda — but the beaches are, of course, at their best in summer weather. In October, the sea is still warm (22–24°C). April can still be cool, but is ideal for hiking.