Sicily

Palermo is loud, chaotic, decayed, and beautiful — often all at once. The capital of Sicily bears the traces of every conquest: Phoenician foundations, Arab domes, Norman cathedrals, Spanish baroque palaces. In between: crumbling facades, laundry over the alleys, and a street food culture that is second to none.

Cathedral of Palermo ★★

An architectural potpourri that combines 800 years of conquest history in one building: founded by the Normans (1185), Arab elements, Gothic towers, baroque dome, neoclassical interior. In the crypt lie Norman and Hohenstaufen rulers, including Emperor Frederick II — one of the most fascinating rulers of the Middle Ages.

Cappella Palatina ★★★

The palace chapel in the Palazzo dei Normanni is the masterpiece of Norman-Arab art: golden Byzantine mosaics (Christ Pantocrator!), an Arab wooden ceiling with muqarnas (stalactite vaults), and Cosmatesque floors. The fusion of three cultures in a single room is breathtaking and unique in the world. Entry Cappella + Palazzo: €12.

Street Markets ★★★

Palermo's markets are the pulsating heart of the city:

• Ballarò — The largest and most authentic market. Fish, meat, fruits, vegetables in a cacophony of calls and smells. On the edge: street food stalls with Panelle, Arancini, and Stigghiola.
• Vucciria — Once the most famous market, today more of an evening bar scene with fried street food.
• Mercato del Capo — Compact, lively, less touristy than Ballarò.

Street Food in Palermo

Palermo is the street food capital of Europe:

• Arancini/e — Fried rice balls, filled with ragù, mozzarella, or pistachios (€1.50–2.50)
• Panelle — Chickpea flour flatbreads, fried, in a bun (€2–3)
• Sfincione — Sicilian pizza: thick dough, tomato sauce, onions, anchovies, Caciocavallo cheese (€2–3)
• Pane con la Milza — Spleen sandwich. Sounds terrible, tastes fantastic. A must for the brave (€3–4)
• Cannoli — Fried pastry tubes filled with sweet ricotta cream. Only acceptable when freshly filled (€2–3)

Taormina sits 200 meters above the sea on the east coast of Sicily — overlooking the Bay of Naxos and the smoking Etna in the background. The town is undoubtedly picturesque: the Teatro Greco (ancient Greco-Roman theater, 5,400 seats, €10) has one of the most spectacular backdrops in the world — Etna as the stage background.

The Corso Umberto is the promenade with boutiques, cafes, and viewing terraces. The Isola Bella below the town is a tiny islet connected to the beach by a sandbar — perfect for swimming and snorkeling.

Honestly: Taormina is beautiful, but also very touristy and expensive by Sicilian standards. The "White Lotus" series (HBO, filmed here) has further fueled the hype. Better: Visit as a day trip and stay overnight in a more affordable coastal town (Giardini Naxos, Catania).

The Etna is, at 3,357 meters, the highest active volcano in Europe — and one of the most active in the world. It erupts regularly (most recently several times in 2023 and 2024), and the lava flows have swallowed villages and created new landscapes over centuries. The lunar landscape of cooled lava, the steaming craters, and the view over all of Sicily to Calabria are a unique experience.

Ascent

• Up to 2,500 m: By car or bus to Rifugio Sapienza (south side). From there by cable car to 2,920 m (€33 return). Then off-road bus + guide up to about 3,000 m (€55–65 extra). Without a guide, you are officially only allowed up to 2,920 m.
• To the crater rim (approx. 3,300 m): Only with an authorized mountain guide (€80–100 incl. equipment). The summit area changes constantly — depending on the volcano's activity. Fitness for a 5–6 hour hike is required.
• Alternatively — North side (Piano Provenzana): Fewer tourists, wilder, with off-road vehicles to the northern craters.

Winery on the Volcano

The volcanic soils on Etna produce some of Italy's most exciting wines: Etna Rosso (from the Nerello-Mascalese grape) and Etna Bianco (from Carricante) are mineral, elegant, and volcanically influenced. Wineries like Benanti, Planeta, and Tenuta delle Terre Nere offer tastings with views of Etna (€15–40).

Syracuse was once the most powerful city in the Greek world — more powerful than Athens, richer than Corinth. Archimedes was born here, and the city was a center of science and culture for 500 years. Today, Syracuse is one of the most fascinating cities in Sicily, with a UNESCO-protected old town on the island of Ortygia.

Ortygia ★★★

The old town island is a labyrinth of baroque palaces, Greek temples, and medieval alleys, surrounded by crystal-clear sea. The Duomo was literally built into a Greek temple of Athena — the Doric columns are still embedded in the church walls. The Fonte Aretusa (a freshwater spring right by the sea, full of papyrus) and the waterfront at sunset are magical.

Parco Archeologico della Neapolis ★★

The Greek Theater (5th century BC, 15,000 seats) is one of the largest in the ancient world. Greek tragedies are still performed here in May/June. The Ear of Dionysius (Orecchio di Dionisio) — a 23 m high, teardrop-shaped limestone cave with astonishing acoustics — is equally impressive. Entry: €13.

The Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi) near Agrigento on the southern coast of Sicily is the most impressive collection of Greek temples outside Greece — and in some respects better preserved than the originals in Athens. Seven temples from the 5th and 6th centuries BC line up on a rocky ridge above the sea.

The Temple of Concordia (430 BC) is one of the best-preserved Greek temples in the world — 34 Doric columns, almost intact, golden-brown in the evening light. Next to it: the Temple of Hera (450 BC), the massive Temple of Zeus (the largest Doric temple ever planned — never completed), the Temple of Heracles, and the Temple of the Dioscuri.

Especially impressive at sunset, when the temples glow in warm light, and in the evening with night lighting (summer: extended until 10:00 PM). The adjacent Giardino della Kolymbetra (€5) is an enchanting garden with citrus and olive trees in an ancient cistern.

After the devastating earthquake of 1693, the cities of southeastern Sicily were completely rebuilt in the late Baroque style — and today they are UNESCO World Heritage sites and a feast for the eyes.

Noto ★★★

The "capital of the Baroque": a single showcase of honey-colored sandstone. The Cattedrale di San Nicolò (lovingly restored after the dome collapse in 1996) and the Palazzo Nicolaci with its fantastic balconies (sirens, lions, putti) are the highlights. In May, the Infiorata transforms Via Corrado Nicolaci into a carpet of flowers.

Ragusa Ibla ★★★

The lower town of Ragusa is a baroque total work of art: winding alleys, stairs, hidden piazzas, and over 50 churches. The Duomo di San Giorgio towers over the maze. Known as the filming location for the crime series "Il Commissario Montalbano".

Modica ★★

Famous for chocolate made according to an Aztec recipe (cold processed, grainy, intense — quite different from Belgian chocolate). The Antica Dolceria Bonajuto (since 1880) is the oldest chocolate factory in Sicily. And: The Church of San Giorgio with its monumental staircase is another baroque masterpiece.

Sicily's cuisine is a melting pot of Greek, Arab, Norman, Spanish, and French influences — and one of the most exciting regional cuisines in Europe.

Classics

• Pasta alla Norma — Sicily's national dish: pasta with fried eggplant, tomato sauce, basil, and salted ricotta. Named after Bellini's opera "Norma" (from Catania).
• Pasta con le Sarde — Pasta with sardines, wild fennel, pine nuts, and raisins. Pure Arab influence.
• Caponata — Sweet and sour eggplant dish with celery, olives, capers, and tomatoes. Every family has its own recipe.
• Couscous — In Trapani (western Sicily), couscous with fish broth is a main dish. Arab heritage.
• Granita con Brioche — THE Sicilian breakfast: semi-frozen fruit ice (almond, pistachio, lemon, mulberry) in a warm brioche. A must in Catania and Messina.
• Cassata — Opulent cake with ricotta, marzipan, candied fruits, and pistachios. Baroque in cake form.

Pistachios from Bronte

The pistachios from Bronte (on Etna) are the best in the world: intensely green, buttery-sweet, with a price to match (€30–50/kg). In Bronte, there is pistachio pesto, pistachio gelato, pistachio granita, pistachio cream on pizza — all pistachio, and all great.

Getting There

Flight: Catania (CTA) and Palermo (PMO) are the main airports. Direct flights from many German cities with Ryanair, easyJet, Eurowings, Wizz Air. From €40 one way in the off-season.

Ferry: From Villa San Giovanni (Calabria) to Messina: 20 min., €3.50 per person, car about €30. From Naples to Palermo: night ferry (10h, from €45). The train connection from the mainland boards the ferry — a unique experience.

Getting Around

A rental car is essential in Sicily. The bus network (AST, SAIS, Interbus) is sparse and unreliable. Trains only connect the coastal cities (Catania–Syracuse–Taormina–Messina–Palermo), the interior is poorly connected. Driving in Sicily is... adventurous: right of way is "negotiated", honking is communication, and red lights are more of a suggestion than a rule. Drive defensively!

Safety

Sicily is very safe for tourists. The Mafia (Cosa Nostra) exists, but they are not interested in tourists. Petty crime (pickpocketing, car break-ins) occurs in Palermo and Catania — as in any major city. Usual precautions suffice. In the countryside and small towns, Sicily is exceptionally safe and hospitable.

Best Travel Time

April–June and September–October. July/August is extremely hot (up to 45°C in the interior!), crowded, and expensive. The Scirocco (hot south wind from the Sahara) can push temperatures above 40°C for days in summer. Spring is ideal: wildflowers, mild temperatures, empty beaches.