Palermo

Palermo is loud, chaotic, decayed, and beautiful — often all at once. The capital of Sicily bears the traces of every conquest: Phoenician foundations, Arab domes, Norman cathedrals, Spanish baroque palaces. In between: crumbling facades, laundry over the alleys, and a street food culture that is second to none.

Cathedral of Palermo ★★

An architectural potpourri that combines 800 years of conquest history in one building: founded by the Normans (1185), Arab elements, Gothic towers, baroque dome, neoclassical interior. In the crypt lie Norman and Hohenstaufen rulers, including Emperor Frederick II — one of the most fascinating rulers of the Middle Ages.

Cappella Palatina ★★★

The palace chapel in the Palazzo dei Normanni is the masterpiece of Norman-Arab art: golden Byzantine mosaics (Christ Pantocrator!), an Arab wooden ceiling with muqarnas (stalactite vaults), and Cosmatesque floors. The fusion of three cultures in a single room is breathtaking and unique in the world. Entry Cappella + Palazzo: €12.

Street Markets ★★★

Palermo's markets are the pulsating heart of the city:

• Ballarò — The largest and most authentic market. Fish, meat, fruits, vegetables in a cacophony of calls and smells. On the edge: street food stalls with Panelle, Arancini, and Stigghiola.
• Vucciria — Once the most famous market, today more of an evening bar scene with fried street food.
• Mercato del Capo — Compact, lively, less touristy than Ballarò.

Street Food in Palermo

Palermo is the street food capital of Europe:

• Arancini/e — Fried rice balls, filled with ragù, mozzarella, or pistachios (€1.50–2.50)
• Panelle — Chickpea flour flatbreads, fried, in a bun (€2–3)
• Sfincione — Sicilian pizza: thick dough, tomato sauce, onions, anchovies, Caciocavallo cheese (€2–3)
• Pane con la Milza — Spleen sandwich. Sounds terrible, tastes fantastic. A must for the brave (€3–4)
• Cannoli — Fried pastry tubes filled with sweet ricotta cream. Only acceptable when freshly filled (€2–3)