Mount Fuji & Central Japan

Hakone is Tokyo's most popular weekend destination — an onsen resort in the mountains, just 90 minutes from the capital, with steaming hot springs, a sparkling mountain lake, and (in clear weather) a postcard-perfect view of Mount Fuji.

The Hakone Free Pass (¥6,100 from Shinjuku, valid for 2 days) is the key to Hakone: It includes the journey with the Romancecar train and all means of transport in the Hakone loop — a route that takes you through various modes of transport:

• Hakone-Tozan Railway: Mountain railway with switchbacks through hydrangea forests
• Ropeway: Over the Ōwakudani Valley — a steaming, sulfur-yellow volcanic valley with fumaroles. Here, you eat Kuro-Tamago (black eggs, cooked in sulfur springs, ¥500/5 pieces). Legend has it that each egg extends life by seven years.
• Pirate ship on Lake Ashi: Cruise over the mountain lake with Fuji panorama in the background (weather dependent!)

Hakone has dozens of onsen — from luxurious ryokans with private outdoor baths (Rotenburo) to public baths (Sento) to the free footbath at the station. The Hakone Yuryo (¥1,500) is a modern day onsen with various pools and Fuji view.

For art lovers: The Hakone Open-Air Museum (¥1,600) showcases sculptures by Picasso, Henry Moore, and Niki de Saint Phalle in a mountain panorama — one of the most unusual museums in the world.

The Fuji Five Lakes (富士五湖, Fujigoko) at the northern foot of Mount Fuji offer the most beautiful and closest views of Japan's sacred mountain — perfect reflections in the still water, cherry blossoms in spring, autumn foliage in November.

The Five Lakes

• Kawaguchiko: The most popular and best-developed lake. Panoramic view of Fuji from the north side, cable car to Mount Kachi Kachi (¥900), retro bus lines to all attractions. Here is also the famous Chureito Pagoda — red pagoda with Fuji in the background, one of Japan's most photographed motifs (398 steps ascent).
• Saiko: The quietest lake, surrounded by forest. Perfect for kayaking and the Aokigahara lava fields.
• Yamanakako: The largest lake, with water sports and camping.
• Shōjiko: The smallest and most pristine lake.
• Motosuko: The deepest lake with the clearest water — the Fuji view from here adorns the 1,000-yen bill!

Climbing Mount Fuji

The climbing season is short: July to mid-September. Four routes lead to the summit (3,776 m), the most popular is the Yoshida Trail from the 5th Station (2,305 m, accessible by bus). The ascent takes 5–7 hours, the descent 3–4 hours. Many start in the afternoon, stay overnight in a mountain hut (¥8,000–10,000 with dinner), and ascend to the summit for the sunrise (Goraiko).

Equipment: Good hiking boots, warm clothing (at the summit 5–10 °C even in summer), headlamp, water, cash for the huts. From 2024, an entrance fee of ¥2,000 and an online reservation are required.

Kamakura was Japan's political center in the 13th–14th centuries — the seat of the first shogunate and a temple city that rivaled Kyoto. Today, the small coastal town is a perfect day trip from Tokyo (1 hour by JR Yokosuka Line, ¥940).

The main highlight is the Great Buddha (Daibutsu) at the Kōtoku-in Temple — a 13.35-meter-high, 121-ton bronze statue from 1252. Originally housed in a hall, which was swept away by a tsunami in 1498 — since then, the Buddha has sat outdoors, meditating under the open sky. For an extra ¥50, you can climb through a door into the hollow back of the statue.

Other highlights:

• Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū: Kamakura's most important shrine, at the end of a wide avenue lined with cherry trees. In September, Yabusame (mounted archery) takes place here — one of Japan's most spectacular festivals.
• Hasedera: Temple with a 9-meter-high, gilded Kannon statue and a cave corridor with hundreds of small Buddha figures. The garden offers a sea view.
• Komachi-dōri: Lively shopping street between the station and the shrine — souvenirs, matcha ice cream, dango (rice dumplings).
• Enoshima: Small island accessible by bridge (20 min. by train from Kamakura). Caves, shrines, sea views, and Fuji panorama in clear weather.

Nikkō is the opposite of Zen minimalism — here, more is more. The Tōshō-gū Shrine, the mausoleum of the first Tokugawa shogun Ieyasu, is Japan's most opulent building: over 2.4 million gold leaf plates, 5,173 carvings, including the famous three monkeys (see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil) and the "sleeping cat" (Nemuri-neko).

The entire shrine complex (UNESCO World Heritage) is set in an ancient cedar forest — the combination of baroque splendor and silent nature is unique. The Yōmeimon (Sun Gate) alone has over 500 carvings — one could spend an entire day studying the details.

Nikkō is located 2 hours north of Tokyo (Tobu Railway from Asakusa, ¥2,800 round trip with Nikko Pass). The surroundings offer:

• Kegon Waterfall: 97-meter-high waterfall, accessible by elevator to the viewing platform (¥570).
• Lake Chūzenji: Mountain lake at 1,269 m altitude, surrounded by autumn foliage in October.
• Kinugawa Onsen: Onsen resort nearby.

Takayama (高山) is a gem in the Japanese Alps — a mountain town with a beautifully preserved Edo-period old town, one of Japan's best morning markets, and a sake brewery scene that is second to none.

The Sanmachi Suji (three old town streets) are the heart of Takayama: dark brown wooden houses from the 17th–19th centuries, sake breweries (recognizable by the spherical Sugidama cedar balls above the entrance), miso shops, and cozy cafés. The atmosphere is reminiscent of Kyoto 100 years ago — only without the crowds.

The Miyagawa Morning Market (6:00–12:00, daily) on the riverbank is one of Japan's oldest farmers' markets: pickled vegetables, local apple juice, Hida beef skewers (¥500–800), fresh mochi, and crafts. The other attraction is the Takayama Festival (April 14/15 and October 9/10) — one of Japan's three most beautiful festivals with elaborate floats (Yatai) and puppet theater.

Hida beef is Takayama's culinary star — a Wagyu beef that rivals Kobe beef but is less known and cheaper. Try Hida beef sushi on hand (¥600–1,000) in the old town streets.

Shirakawa-gō (白川郷) is a UNESCO World Heritage Village in the Japanese Alps — famous for its Gasshō-zukuri farmhouses (合掌造り, "hands folded in prayer"), whose steep thatched roofs are inclined up to 60° to let the region's extreme snow masses slide off. The houses are up to 250 years old and some have four stories.

The village is set in a deep valley, surrounded by mountains, and looks like a Japanese fairy tale — especially in winter, when the thatched roofs disappear under a thick layer of snow and the village is bathed in warm light during the annual illumination (January/February, Saturday nights). These nights are so popular that you have to book months in advance — by lottery!

The Wada House and the Kanda House are accessible as museums (¥300 each) and show how families lived in these houses for generations — with silkworms in the attic and open hearths (Irori) on the ground floor. From the Shiroyama Viewpoint (15 min. ascent), you have a postcard-perfect view over the entire village.

Access: By bus from Takayama (50 min., ¥2,600) or Kanazawa (75 min., ¥2,000). Some Gasshō-zukuri houses are now Minshuku (guesthouses) — an overnight stay in a 250-year-old thatched house with Irori dinner is an unforgettable experience (¥10,000–15,000/person with half board).

Kanazawa (金沢, "Golden Marsh") is Japan's most underrated cultural city — a former castle town that was not bombed in World War II and thus preserved historical districts, one of Japan's three most beautiful gardens, and a vibrant craft scene.

The centerpiece is Kenroku-en — one of Japan's "three perfect gardens" (Nihon Sanmeien). 11 hectares, with ponds, bridges, teahouses, and the famous Kotoji Lantern (two-legged stone lantern, Kanazawa's landmark). Each season brings new beauty — in winter, the trees are protected with Yukitsuri (rope snow protectors), creating a unique geometric sight.

Other highlights:

• Higashi Chaya District: Geisha district with 19th-century teahouses. Less touristy than Kyoto's Gion. Gold leaf ice cream (¥891) is Kanazawa's Instagram sensation.
• Nagamachi Samurai District: Preserved samurai residences with clay walls and small gardens.
• 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art: Circular glass building with Leandro Erlich's famous "Swimming Pool" (illusion you enter from below). Free entry to the outdoor area.
• Ōmi-chō Market: Kanazawa's fish and vegetable market for over 300 years — fresh kaisen-don (seafood rice bowl) from ¥1,500.

Access: 2.5 hours from Tokyo with the Hokuriku Shinkansen (included in the JR Pass).