Southern Japan

Hiroshima is a city that has reinvented itself from total destruction — and today stands as a symbol of peace and reconciliation. On August 6, 1945, at 8:15 a.m., the first atomic bomb used in war, "Little Boy," detonated 580 meters above the city. Within seconds, 80,000 people were dead, over 140,000 by the end of the year. Today, Hiroshima is a vibrant, modern city with one of the world's most important memorials.

The Peace Park (Heiwa Kinen Kōen) stretches on the island between two river arms — right at the epicenter of the explosion. The centerpiece is the Atomic Bomb Dome (Genbaku Dōmu), the ruin of the former Chamber of Industry and Commerce — the only building that (partially) remained standing because the bomb detonated almost directly above it. The skeletal dome is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the most haunting war memorial one can see.

The Peace Museum (¥200) was completely renovated in 2019 and tells the story through personal fates — burnt clothing, melted lunch boxes, drawings by survivors (Hibakusha). It is emotionally overwhelming and absolutely necessary. Plan 1.5–2 hours.

In front of the museum stands the Peace Flame, which burns until the last nuclear weapon is destroyed, and the Children's Peace Monument for Sadako Sasaki — the girl who developed leukemia from the radiation and folded 1,000 paper cranes in the hope of healing. Today, millions of origami cranes from around the world are hung at her monument each year.

Miyajima (宮島, "Shrine Island"), officially Itsukushima, is a sacred island in the bay of Hiroshima — famous for the floating Torii gate of the Itsukushima Shrine, which appears to float on the water at high tide. It is one of the three most famous scenic views in Japan (Nihon Sankei) and one of the most photographed subjects in the country.

The great Torii (16.6 m high, 60 tons) has stood in the water since 1168 — the current one is the 10th reconstruction (renovated in 2022, in bright vermilion). At low tide, you can walk to the Torii and touch it — at high tide, it reflects in the water. Both views are spectacular. Tide tables are displayed at the ferry and tourist office.

The Itsukushima Shrine (UNESCO World Heritage Site, ¥300) itself is an architectural marvel — a Shinto shrine on stilts that floats above the water at high tide. The vermillion-red buildings, connected by walkways and corridors, with the Torii in the background and the mountains behind — it is breathtaking.

The island offers more than the shrine:

• Mount Misen: The highest mountain on the island (535 m). Cable car (¥1,840 round trip) or hiking trail (1.5–2 hours ascent). At the summit: panorama over the Inland Sea and wild Japanese macaques.
• Momijidani Park: A valley with over 700 maple trees — in autumn (November) a sea of red and gold.
• Street Food Mile: The Omotesando shopping street offers oyster specialties (Miyajima oysters, grilled: ¥400), fresh Anago (conger eel), and the giant Shamoji (rice paddles) — Miyajima's symbol.
• Wild Deer: Like in Nara, tame sika deer roam the island — but please do not feed them.

Getting There: Ferry from Miyajimaguchi (10 min., ¥180, JR ferry included in the JR Pass!). Miyajimaguchi is 30 min. by JR from Hiroshima.

Okinawa is a different Japan — a subtropical archipelago 1,600 km south of Tokyo, culturally influenced by China, Southeast Asia, and the USA (US military base to this day). The islands offer turquoise waters, coral reefs, a unique cuisine, and the longest-living people in the world (the "Blue Zone" Okinawa).

Naha, the capital, has the lively Kokusai-dōri (International Street) with souvenir shops, restaurants, and the Makishi Market (Okinawa's Tsukiji — tropical fish, pig's feet, exotic fruits). The reconstructed Shuri Castle (destroyed by fire in 2019, reconstruction until 2026) was the palace of the Ryūkyū Kingdom.

The beaches are Japan's best: white sand, warm water (24–30 °C from April to November), snorkeling directly from the beach. The best:

• Kerama Islands: 30 min. by speedboat from Naha. Crystal clear water, turtles, pristine coral reefs.
• Zamami: Whale watching (January–March), perfect snorkeling.
• Miyako-jima: Japan's most Caribbean-like beach (Yonaha Maehama Beach, 7 km of white sand).
• Ishigaki: Gateway to the Yaeyama Islands, manta ray diving, starry sky (Japan's first star park).

The Churaumi Aquarium in the north of the main island is one of the largest aquariums in the world — the main tank with whale sharks and manta rays (8.2 million liters!) is overwhelming.

Yakushima (屋久島) is a mystical island south of Kyushu — a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site with ancient Yakusugi cedars that are over 1,000 years old. The oldest, Jōmon Sugi, is estimated to be 2,170–7,200 years old (the age is disputed) and is one of the oldest trees in the world. The moss-covered forest inspired Hayao Miyazaki for the Studio Ghibli film "Princess Mononoke".

The island receives up to 10,000 mm of rainfall per year — it is said to rain "35 days a month." This rain creates the mystical, moss-covered mist forest that makes Yakushima so unique. Pack: waterproof clothing, good hiking boots.

Hikes:

• Jōmon Sugi Trail: The main hike to the oldest cedar. 22 km, 8–10 hours (round trip). Challenging but unforgettable. Start at 5 a.m. by bus to the Arakawa Trailhead.
• Shiratani Unsuikyo: The "Mononoke Forest" — moss-covered rocks, gnarled tree roots, light breaking through the mist. Various routes (1–5 hours). ¥500 entrance.
• Yakusugi Land: Easier cedar forest walk with boardwalks (30–150 min.). ¥500.

Getting There: Ferry from Kagoshima (Jetfoil 2 hours, ¥10,000 round trip, or slow ferry 4 hours, ¥5,000) or flight from Osaka/Fukuoka (1 hour).

Nagasaki has a unique identity — as the only port open to foreign trade during Japan's 250-year isolation (Sakoku, 1633–1853) (only for Dutch and Chinese). And as the second city on which an atomic bomb was dropped (August 9, 1945, "Fat Man," 73,000 dead).

The Peace Park and the Atomic Bomb Museum (¥200) tell the story with dignity and poignancy. The Peace Statue (10 m) depicts a seated figure with a raised right arm (threatening atomic bomb) and a horizontal left arm (peace). Less visited than Hiroshima, but equally moving.

Nagasaki's other side is its cosmopolitan history:

• Glover Garden: Western merchant houses from the 19th century on a hill with a view of the harbor. Inspired Puccini's opera "Madame Butterfly."
• Dejima: The artificial island where Dutch traders were Japan's only window to the world for 200 years. Now reconstructed and accessible as a museum (¥520).
• Chinatown: Japan's oldest Chinatown — famous for Champon (Nagasaki's noodle dish: thick noodles in creamy broth with seafood and vegetables) and Castella (Nagasaki's sponge cake, introduced by Portuguese missionaries in the 16th century).
• Ōura Church: Japan's oldest church (1864), a national treasure — a testament to the "hidden Christians" who maintained their faith underground for 250 years.

Kumamoto is located in the heart of Kyushu and offers two highlights: one of Japan's most impressive castles and the Aso, one of the world's most active volcanoes with Japan's largest caldera.

The Kumamoto-jō (Kumamoto Castle) was considered one of Japan's three great castles and an impregnable fortress. The 2016 earthquake destroyed parts of the massive stone walls, but the main castle was restored in 2021 and is accessible again. The restoration of the stone walls will take decades — a fascinating example of Japanese craftsmanship and patience.

Mount Aso (阿蘇山) is located 90 minutes east of Kumamoto — a volcanic complex with a caldera 25 km in diameter, the largest in Japan. People live inside the caldera, with rice fields and villages. The main crater (Nakadake) regularly emits smoke and ash — at low activity levels, you can hike to the crater rim (by cable car or on foot). The vast grasslands around Aso are more reminiscent of Mongolia than Japan.

Kumamoto Cuisine: Basashi (raw horse meat — a Kyushu specialty, thin slices with ginger and soy sauce) and Kumamoto Ramen (Tonkotsu with garlic oil). The mascot Kumamon (black bear with red cheeks) is Japan's most famous mascot and can be found on everything.

Fukuoka is the largest city in Kyushu and for many travelers the gateway to southern Japan. With 1.6 million inhabitants, it is surprisingly compact, vibrant, and — above all — food-obsessed. Fukuoka is the home of Hakata Ramen, one of the world's most famous ramen varieties, and the unique Yatai street stalls.

Hakata Ramen — Tonkotsu Perfection

Hakata Ramen is the counterpart to Tokyo's clear Shoyu broth: a creamy white Tonkotsu broth (pork bones, cooked for 12–20 hours), thin, straight noodles, and toppings like Chashu (pork belly), green onions, sesame, and pickled ginger. The special feature: You choose the noodle firmness — "Kata" (firm), "Barikata" (very firm), or "Harigane" (almost raw, for purists). And when the noodles are finished, you order Kaedama (替え玉) — a noodle refill for only ¥100–200.

• Ichiran: Japan's most famous ramen chain — here you eat in individual booths and order via a form (broth, noodle firmness, toppings). The original is in Fukuoka (Nakasu). From ¥980.
• Shin-Shin: Local favorite with a slightly lighter broth than classic Hakata Ramen. Huge portions, long queue — worth it.
• Ramen Stadium (Canal City): Eight selected ramen restaurants under one roof in the Canal City Hakata shopping center.

Yatai — Dining Outdoors

Fukuoka's Yatai (屋台) are mobile food stalls with plastic tarps — Japan's answer to beer gardens. Every evening, around 100 Yatai are set up along riverbanks and street corners (especially along the Nakasu River and at Tenjin Square). You squeeze onto tiny stools, order ramen, oden (stew), yakitori, and gyoza, drink beer and shōchū, and chat with locals. Prices: ¥1,000–2,500 for food + drink.

Other Highlights

• Ōhori Park: Large city park with a lake, perfect for jogging, boating, and relaxing. The adjacent Fukuoka Art Museum features Dalí, Warhol, and contemporary Japanese art.
• Kushida Shrine: Fukuoka's most important Shinto shrine (757 AD), home to the Hakata-Gion-Yamakasa Festival in July — huge, decorated festival floats are carried through the streets.
• Dazaifu Tenman-gū: 30 minutes by Nishitetsu train — a picturesque shrine dedicated to the god of learning. Students visit before exams. The path there is lined with Umegae Mochi stalls (sweet rice cakes with red bean paste, ¥130).

Beppu (別府) on the east coast of Kyushu is Japan's hottest city — literally. With over 2,800 hot springs and the highest thermal water output in the world (after Yellowstone National Park), the city literally steams from every crevice. In the morning, Beppu is enveloped in a surreal cloud of steam hovering over the rooftops.

The "Hells" of Beppu (Jigoku Meguri)

The most famous attractions are the seven hells — hot springs too hot for bathing (up to 98 °C) and instead admired as natural spectacles. Combo ticket: ¥2,200 for all seven.

• Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell): An unreal cobalt blue pond — the most beautiful of all the hells. Tropical lotus flowers bloom in the garden, heated by the thermal water.
• Chi no Ike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell): Blood-red colored water due to iron oxide — eerie and fascinating.
• Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell): A geyser that erupts every 30–40 minutes.
• Oniyama Jigoku (Demon Mountain Hell): Here, crocodiles are warmed with the thermal water — bizarre, but typically Japanese.

Bathing in Beppu

Besides sightseeing, Beppu is primarily for bathing. The city has eight onsen areas with different thermal waters:

• Takegawara Onsen: A historic wooden bathhouse (1879) where you can bury yourself in hot volcanic sand (Sunayu, ¥1,500). Surreal and relaxing.
• Hyōtan Onsen: Family-friendly onsen resort with various pools, steam baths, and waterfall showers (¥820).
• Jigoku Mushi Kōbō: "Hell Steam Kitchen" — here you cook your own food (eggs, corn, seafood, vegetables) in natural steam vents. An unforgettable experience for ¥500 + ingredients.

Getting there: Special train "Sonic" from Fukuoka/Hakata (2 hrs, JR Pass included) or bus from Ōita Airport (45 min.).