Nikkō — Splendor in the Forest★★
Nikkō is the opposite of Zen minimalism — here, more is more. The Tōshō-gū Shrine, the mausoleum of the first Tokugawa shogun Ieyasu, is Japan's most opulent building: over 2.4 million gold leaf plates, 5,173 carvings, including the famous three monkeys (see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil) and the "sleeping cat" (Nemuri-neko).
The entire shrine complex (UNESCO World Heritage) is set in an ancient cedar forest — the combination of baroque splendor and silent nature is unique. The Yōmeimon (Sun Gate) alone has over 500 carvings — one could spend an entire day studying the details.
Nikkō is located 2 hours north of Tokyo (Tobu Railway from Asakusa, ¥2,800 round trip with Nikko Pass). The surroundings offer:
- Kegon Waterfall: 97-meter-high waterfall, accessible by elevator to the viewing platform (¥570).
- Lake Chūzenji: Mountain lake at 1,269 m altitude, surrounded by autumn foliage in October.
- Kinugawa Onsen: Onsen resort nearby.
💡 Tipp
The Nikko World Heritage Pass (¥2,120 from Asakusa, 2 days) includes train travel and buses in Nikkō. Visit during the week — on weekends, the Tōshō-gū is overcrowded. In autumn (October), the drive to Lake Chūzenji through the Irohazaka hairpin turns (48 curves) is spectacular.
