Amman & Surroundings

Amman is a city you learn to love at second glance. At first glance, a sea of white and sand-colored houses climbing over seven (actually now nineteen) hills. At second glance, one of the most exciting cities in the Middle East: a 9,000-year-old history that can be read at the Citadel; a vibrant culinary scene ranging from street food to fine dining; and a warmth of the people that embraces every visitor.

The city is roughly divided into two worlds: Downtown (Al-Balad) in the valley is the old, chaotic, authentic Amman—here lie the Roman theater, the souks, and the cheapest falafel in the city. West Amman (Abdali, Sweifieh, Abdoun) on the hills is the modern Amman—cafés, rooftop bars, international restaurants, and trendy galleries.

Plan 1–2 full days for Amman, plus a day for a trip to Madaba and Mount Nebo.

The Citadel — Amman's Crown

High above Downtown, the Citadel sits atop Jebel al-Qala'a, the highest of Amman's seven hills. Here, on a plateau with a 360° panorama over the city, 9,000 years of civilization have layered upon each other: from the Bronze Age through the Ammonites, Romans, Byzantines, and Umayyads to the Ottoman period.

Temple of Hercules

The most massive ruins of the Citadel: The Temple of Hercules was built between 162–166 AD under Emperor Marcus Aurelius and was one of the largest temples of the Roman Empire. Of the original 10-meter-high Corinthian columns, a few still stand—along with a giant marble hand that must have belonged to a once 12-meter-high statue of Hercules. The view through the columns to the Roman theater below in the valley is Amman's most iconic photo spot.

Umayyad Palace

At the northern end of the Citadel lies the Umayyad Palace from the 8th century—a complex from the golden age of Islam. The restored domed hall with its geometric cross shape and barrel vault is architecturally impressive. The Umayyad rule (661–750) was the first Islamic dynasty, and this palace showcases their splendor.

Archaeological Museum

The small but fine museum on the Citadel hill displays finds from the excavations: Bronze Age figures, the Ain-Ghazal statues (7,000 BC—the oldest human-shaped statues in the world are replicas, originals in the Jordan Museum), Nabataean pottery, and Islamic artifacts.

The Roman Theater

Amman's most imposing ancient structure: The Roman Theater was built in the 2nd century AD (138–161) under Emperor Antoninus Pius and seats 6,000 spectators on 33 rows. It is built into the north slope of Jebel al-Jofeh and is remarkably well preserved—the acoustics are still perfect: a whisper on stage can be heard in the top row.

In the cavea (the seating area), there are two small museums: the Folklore Museum (traditional clothing, Bedouin tents, everyday objects) and the Museum of Popular Traditions (jewelry, mosaics, traditional crafts). Both are included in the admission.

Opposite the theater lies the Nymphaeum, a partially excavated Roman fountain from the 2nd century, and the Hashemite Plaza, a well-maintained square that serves as a starting point for Downtown walks.

Rainbow Street — Amman's Soul

The Rainbow Street (officially: Abu Bakr as-Siddiq Street) on Jebel Amman between 1st and 2nd Circle is the heart of hip, cosmopolitan Amman. On a few hundred meters, cafés, bookstores, galleries, restaurants, and vintage shops line up—an oasis of creativity in a city rapidly changing.

Here, you sit in the evening with a view over the sparkling lights of the city, drink freshly pressed pomegranate juice, smoke shisha, and watch the colorful hustle and bustle: students, artists, expats, and Jordanian families mingle under the open sky.

Highlights on and around Rainbow Street

• Wild Jordan Center (RSCN): The café of the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature offers fantastic coffee, healthy cuisine, and the best view over Downtown from the terrace. Here you can also book hikes and eco-tours.
• Jadal for Knowledge and Culture: Cultural center with exhibitions, readings, and workshops.
• Souk Jara (Friday flea market): In summer (May–October), a side street transforms every Friday into a craft market with music, food, and a great atmosphere.
• Duke's Diwan: A historic Ottoman house (1924) that serves as a free cultural venue. Admire the architecture and drink tea.

Jordan Museum — The Story of a Nation

The Jordan Museum in the Abdali district is the country's most important and modern museum. Opened in 2014, it tells the story of Jordan from the earliest human settlements to the present—with two absolute highlights:

• Ain-Ghazal Statues (7,000 BC): The oldest large-format human figures in the world. These 9,000-year-old plaster statues with their large eyes and stylized faces were excavated in Amman and are among the most significant archaeological finds of the 20th century.
• Dead Sea Scrolls: The museum houses some of the famous copper scrolls found in the Qumran caves in 1952, which are among the oldest biblical manuscripts.

The permanent exhibition leads chronologically through the epochs: Stone Age, Bronze Age, Nabataeans, Romans, Islam, Crusaders, Ottomans, Hashemites. Interactive displays, modern museography, and English labels make the visit an experience even without a guide.

The Souks of Downtown

Around King Faisal Street and King Hussein Street stretch Amman's traditional souks—a maze of narrow alleys where spice merchants, goldsmiths, textile traders, and vegetable markets line up. Here, the authentic, Arab Amman is alive: loud, chaotic, fragrant, and fascinating.

Street Food Highlights

Downtown is Amman's street food paradise. A culinary tour costs almost nothing and fills you up for the whole day:

• Hashem Restaurant: The most legendary falafel joint in Jordan—since 1952, it has served the best falafel in the country in a side alley of Downtown. Kings and ambassadors eat here alongside taxi drivers. A complete meal (falafel, hummus, fuul, tea) costs 2–3 JOD. Open 24 hours!
• Habibah Sweets: Located right at the entrance to Rainbow Street, Habibah is the temple of knafeh—the hot, cheesy-sweet dessert swimming in a syrup of orange blossom water. The line is always long, but it moves quickly. 0.50 JOD per portion.
• Shawarma Stands: Shawarma stands line up along King Hussein Street. Chicken or lamb in flatbread with pickles and garlic sauce from 0.75 JOD.
• Fresh Juice Stands: Freshly squeezed orange juice, pomegranate juice, or mango—on every corner, from 0.50 JOD.

Madaba — The City of Mosaics

35 km south of Amman lies Madaba, one of the oldest Christian communities in the world, famous for its Byzantine mosaics. The highlight is the Madaba Map in the Greek Orthodox St. George's Church: a 6 by 15-meter floor mosaic from the 6th century, showing the oldest cartographic depiction of the Holy Land—Jerusalem, the Dead Sea, the Jordan, Bethlehem, and even individual buildings are identifiable.

Madaba has even more to offer: The Archaeological Museum displays more mosaics and Nabataean finds, the Madaba Archaeological Park preserves impressive floor mosaics from various churches, and the city itself is much quieter and more authentic than Amman.

Mount Nebo — The View of Moses

10 km west of Madaba rises Mount Nebo (817 m), one of Jordan's most important biblical sites. According to the Book of Deuteronomy, Moses saw the Promised Land from here shortly before his death, which he himself was not allowed to enter.

And indeed: On a clear day, the view from the summit extends over the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea, the hills of Jerusalem, and on particularly good visibility, even to Bethlehem and Jericho. The Moses Church on the summit houses beautiful Byzantine mosaics (6th century), and the modern Brazen Serpent Sculpture (Moses' serpent) is a popular photo motif.

Pope John Paul II visited Mount Nebo in 2000, Pope Benedict XVI in 2009—both planted an olive tree here as a sign of peace.

As-Salt — The Forgotten Beauty

30 km northwest of Amman lies the city of As-Salt, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021—yet remains a true insider tip. During the Ottoman period (until 1921), Salt was the capital of the region and a thriving trade center. Then Amman was declared the capital, and Salt fell into a slumber.

This slumber has preserved the city: Beautiful sandstone houses from the 19th century with arched windows, wrought-iron balconies, and yellow limestone facades line the steep alleys. There is no McDonald's, hardly any tourists, but friendly locals who are amazed that someone is visiting their city.

Worth seeing: The Salt History Museum in the historic Abu Jaber house, the Harmony Trail (a walk through the old town with information boards), and the numerous stairs and alleys winding between the houses.