Petra — The Rock City

There are places you know from photos that still leave you speechless. Petra is such a place. The over 2,000-year-old Nabataean city, hidden in a valley between red sandstone mountains, was rediscovered in 1812 by Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, after being known only to the local Bedouins for centuries.

What makes Petra unique: The Nabataeans did not build a city — they carved a city from the rock. Hundreds of facades, temples, tombs, theaters, and residential caves were hewn directly into the sandstone walls, in shades ranging from pink to orange to violet. The city was the capital of the Nabataean kingdom (4th century BC – 106 AD) and controlled the incense and spice trade routes between Arabia, Egypt, and the Mediterranean.

Petra is huge: Over 800 archaeological structures are spread over 264 km². Most visitors see only a fraction in one day. Plan for at least 2 days — preferably three.

Accommodation: The town of Wadi Musa is located right at the entrance to Petra and offers hotels in all price ranges (15–200 JOD/night). Most visitors stay here.

The Siq — A Path Like in Another World

The Siq is the 1.2 km long, narrow canyon that forms the only access to the ancient city of Petra — and at the same time one of the most dramatic stagings in architectural history. The Nabataeans deliberately designed this natural rock fissure as a processional way: The walls rise up to 80 meters high and are only 2 meters apart at the narrowest point. The light falling through the narrow opening paints spectacular patterns on the red, yellow, white, and violet sandstone.

Along the walls, traces of the Nabataean water channel are still visible — channels that led water from the mountains into the city. On the rock walls, small deity figures and reliefs of camel caravans can be found in niches. The entire path is a slow crescendo of tension.

And then, at the end of the Siq, the gorge becomes even narrower, the light even more dramatic — and suddenly a narrow gap opens, through which the iconic facade of the Treasury appears in the pink sunlight. It is one of the most moving moments that travel has to offer.

Al-Khazneh — The Iconic Treasury

The Treasury (Al-Khazneh, “the Pharaoh's Treasury”) is the most famous building in Jordan and the landmark of the entire country. The 40-meter high and 25-meter wide facade was carved directly from the rock face in the 1st century BC — an incredible feat considering the Nabataeans worked from top to bottom, without scaffolding, using only chisels and the naked eye for proportions.

The name “Treasury” comes from a Bedouin legend that claims the urn at the top of the facade hides the treasure of a pharaoh — the bullet holes in the urn are from Bedouins trying to shoot the treasure free. In truth, Al-Khazneh was likely a royal tomb, possibly for the Nabataean King Aretas IV (9 BC – 40 AD).

The Hellenistic-influenced facade features Corinthian columns, eagle figures, Amazons, and the goddess Isis — a fascinating mix of Greek, Egyptian, and Nabataean art. Depending on the time of day, the color of the sandstone changes from pale pink (morning) to bright orange (noon) to deep red (afternoon).

Petra by Night: On three evenings a week (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday), the path from the Siq to the Treasury is illuminated by 1,500 candles. Sitting in front of the facade, you hear Bedouin music while the candlelight dances on the sandstone. 17 JOD entrance, start 8:30 PM, duration 2 hours. Reservation recommended.

Beyond the Treasury — The City of Petra

Most visitors spend too much time at the Treasury and miss the rest of Petra. The actual city lies beyond it:

Street of Facades

Behind the Treasury, the valley opens up, and dozens of tomb facades line the rock walls — from simple to magnificent, in the typical sandstone colors. The "Street of Facades" showcases the full range of Nabataean tomb architecture.

The Theater

A completely rock-carved Roman theater for 3,000 spectators. Unique: Tombs are embedded in the theater's back wall, which were cut through during construction — the Nabataeans (or their Roman successors) sacrificed the dead for the entertainment of the living.

Royal Tombs

Opposite the theater, high in the rock face, lie the four large Royal Tombs:

• Urn Tomb: With its distinctive urn above the entrance and the huge forecourt (a natural rock terrace), it is the most photogenic of the Royal Tombs
• Silk Tomb: Named after the silk-like color bands in the sandstone — a natural artwork
• Corinthian Tomb: With a heavily weathered facade in Corinthian style
• Palace Tomb: The widest facade, reminiscent of a multi-story Roman palace

Colonnaded Street & Qasr al-Bint

The paved Colonnaded Street marks the center of the once-thriving trading city. At the end stands the Qasr al-Bint (Palace of the Pharaoh's Daughter) — the only freestanding temple in Petra and the best-preserved structure not carved from rock. It was the main temple of the Nabataeans, dedicated to the god Dushara.

Ad-Deir — Petra's Hidden Masterpiece

The Monastery Ad-Deir is the largest and, for many visitors, the most impressive facade of Petra. At 48 meters wide and 47 meters high, it is even more colossal than the Treasury — and it sits atop a mountain peak, reached by an ascent of 800 rock-cut steps.

The name “Monastery” comes from the crosses carved into the walls in later centuries when Byzantine monks lived here. Originally, it was probably a Nabataean temple or a meeting room for religious banquets, built in the 1st century AD.

The ascent takes 45–60 minutes and is strenuous, but the view from the top is breathtaking: an endless panorama over the Edom mountains to Wadi Araba. At the top, there is a Bedouin café selling tea and cold drinks — the most deserved tea of your life.

The facade itself is most beautiful in the late afternoon (from 3:00 PM) when the sun illuminates it golden. Those who see Ad-Deir in the evening light understand why Petra is a world wonder.

High Place of Sacrifice (Al-Madbah)

The High Place of Sacrifice on Jebel al-Madbah is one of the best-preserved Nabataean cult sites and offers perhaps the best panoramic view over Petra. The ascent begins opposite the theater and takes about 30–45 minutes over well-marked, rock-cut steps.

At the top, you will find a flat, rock-carved altar with drainage channels for the blood of sacrificial animals — a place where the Nabataeans worshipped their gods Dushara and Al-Uzza. The panoramic view over the entire city, the wadi, and the surrounding mountains is spectacular.

Descent via Wadi Farasa

Instead of returning the same way, take the descent through Wadi Farasa on the back of the mountain. Here you will find some of Petra's most beautiful and least visited monuments:

• Lion Triclinium: A banquet hall with lion reliefs next to the entrance
• Garden Triclinium: A dining room with a garden in front — the Nabataeans dined overlooking roses and oleanders
• Soldier's Tomb: A facade with niches for statues in Roman armor

Further Hikes

• Al-Kubtha Trail: Ascent to the viewpoint opposite the Treasury — the famous bird's-eye view of Al-Khazneh. 30 min., steep but rewarding.
• Umm al-Biyara: The highest point of Petra (1,178 m). Challenging 3-hour hike, only with a guide. Reward: unparalleled 360° view.

Little Petra — The Little Sister

9 km north of Petra lies Siq al-Barid, better known as “Little Petra” — a smaller version of the large rock city, which likely served as a suburb and caravanserai. Here, trade caravans stopped before entering Petra.

The special thing about Little Petra: Entry is free, there are hardly any tourists, and the atmosphere is more intimate than in the big sister. A short Siq (350 meters) leads into a valley with three extensions, where temple facades, dining rooms (triclinia), and residential caves are located.

Highlight: A triclinium with preserved ceiling painting — vine tendrils, erotes, and birds in bright colors, the only known Nabataean wall painting. It shows the Hellenistic influence on Nabataean art.

From Little Petra, a hiking trail (approx. 2–3 hours, medium-difficult, only recommended with a guide) leads directly to the Monastery Ad-Deir in Petra — one of the most beautiful hikes in Jordan, forming the “backdoor” to Petra.