The Desert Castles

The Desert Castles — Islamic Jewels in the Steppe

East of Amman, in the barren basalt desert towards Iraq and Saudi Arabia, the Desert Castles are scattered — a collection of early Islamic structures from the 7th–8th centuries, which are among the most fascinating monuments of the Umayyad dynasty. The term "castles" is misleading: they are hunting lodges, bath palaces, caravanserais, and fortresses.

The Most Important Desert Castles

• Qasr Amra (UNESCO World Heritage Site): The absolute highlight. This small bathhouse (8th century) houses the best-preserved early Islamic frescoes in the world: hunting scenes, naked women bathing, musicians, dancers, and a zodiac sign on the dome. The depiction of people and nudity in an Islamic building is unique and shows the openness of the early Umayyads. UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.
• Qasr al-Kharanah: The most impressive facade — a compact, square building with round corner towers, which looks like a fortress but probably served as a caravanserai or meeting place. 60 rooms on two floors.
• Qasr al-Azraq: The Black Basalt Fortress in the oasis of Azraq. Famous as the headquarters of T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) in the winter of 1917/18 during the Arab Revolt. His room above the entrance gate can be visited. The heavy basalt entrance door still swings on its stone pivots today.

Azraq Wetland Reserve

Next to the castle lies the Azraq Wetland Reserve — an oasis in the desert, which was once a vast wetland and is now being painstakingly restored. Birdwatchers will find migratory birds here on their way between Africa and Europe. Wooden walkways lead through the reed landscape.

Practical Tips

The three main castles (Amra, Kharanah, Azraq) can be visited in a 4–5-hour round trip from Amman (about 200 km). Alternatively, as a half-day trip on the way east. All are included in the Jordan Pass.