Angkor Thom & Bayon★★★
Angkor Thom — The Great Capital
Angkor Thom ("Great City") was the last and most magnificent capital of the Khmer Empire. Built under King Jayavarman VII (reigned 1181–1218), the city encompasses a square of 3 × 3 km, surrounded by an 8-meter-high wall and a 100-meter-wide moat. Five monumental gates provide access — each adorned with 54 faces and an avenue of 108 stone figures (gods and demons pulling the Naga).
Bayon — The Temple of Faces
At the exact center of Angkor Thom stands the Bayon, one of the most mysterious temples in the world. 216 enigmatic stone faces smile down from 54 towers in all directions. Whose face is depicted is disputed — likely King Jayavarman VII himself, as Avalokiteshvara (Bodhisattva of Compassion).
The special thing about Bayon: It is chaotic, labyrinthine, and overwhelming. There is no clear tour route — one wanders through dark corridors, climbs stairs, and suddenly stands face to face with a smiling visage from the 12th century. In the morning mist (7:00–8:00 a.m.), the faces seem to emerge from the clouds — breathtaking.
Bas-reliefs at Bayon
The gallery level displays scenes from the everyday life of the Khmer Empire over a length of 1.2 km — battles against the Cham, market scenes, cockfights, fishermen on the Tonle Sap, acrobats. The reliefs are less formal than in Angkor Wat and provide a unique insight into daily life 800 years ago.
Other Highlights in Angkor Thom
- Baphuon: A massive temple pyramid (11th century), reopened in 2011 after 50 years of restoration work. On the back: a 70-meter-long reclining Buddha, formed from the temple's stone blocks.
- Terrace of the Elephants: A 300-meter-long platform with life-sized elephant reliefs. Here, the king received his troops and celebrated victories.
- Terrace of the Leper King: Mysterious statues and double-walled galleries with reliefs of underworld figures, Nagas, and Apsaras.
- Phimeanakas: The "Heavenly Palace" — here, the king is said to have visited a Naga princess every night. Small pyramid with steep stairs.
💡 Tipp
Bayon is most beautiful in the early morning light (7:00–8:00 AM), when mist hangs between the face towers. Come BEFORE the tourist groups. In the afternoon, the light falls on the west faces — also photogenic, but more crowded.
