Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is a city you must feel, not just see. The capital, with around 2.3 million inhabitants, was founded in 1434 and is strategically located at the confluence of the Mekong, Tonle Sap, and Bassac rivers — the "Chaktomuk" (Four Faces). Until the Khmer Rouge, it was known as the "Pearl of Asia" because of its French colonial architecture and elegant boulevards.

Today, Phnom Penh is a place of contrasts: The magnificent Royal Palace is just a few kilometers from the Killing Fields. Between luxury hotels and chic rooftop bars, mopeds weave through streets where food stalls steam. The city has undergone enormous change — and the energy is palpable.

Plan 2–3 days for Phnom Penh. Day 1: Royal Palace and Riverside. Day 2: Tuol Sleng and Killing Fields (emotional, plan for half a day). Day 3: Markets, National Museum, and the burgeoning bar scene.

Royal Palace (Preah Barum Reachea Veang Chaktomuk)

The Royal Palace is the most magnificent building of modern Cambodia and the official residence of King Norodom Sihamoni. Built from 1866 under King Norodom I after the capital moved from Oudong to Phnom Penh, the complex combines Khmer architecture with European elements — French architect Antoine de Monteiro assisted in the design.

What You See

• Throne Hall (Preah Thineang Dheva Vinnichay): The most imposing building — 59 m long, with a 59 m high tower modeled after the Bayon. Coronation ceremonies, royal receptions, and official ceremonies take place here. Inside: wall paintings depicting the Ramayana.
• Moonlight Pavilion: An open hall where traditional dance performances for the king once took place. The wood carvings are exquisite.
• Napoleon III Pavilion: A cast-iron gift from the French emperor, originally built for Empress Eugénie and shipped to Cambodia in 1876.

Silver Pagoda (Wat Preah Keo Morakat)

Right next to the palace, in the same complex, lies the Silver Pagoda — so named because of its floor made of 5,329 silver tiles (each 1.1 kg!). The most important treasures:

• Emerald Buddha: A Baccarat crystal statue from the 17th century on the main altar.
• Golden Buddha: Life-sized, made of 90 kg of gold, adorned with 2,086 diamonds (the largest: 25 carats).
• Wall paintings: On the surrounding wall — 642 m of Ramayana frescoes, unfortunately heavily weathered.

Tuol Sleng — The Darkest Chapter

The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is one of the most harrowing places in the world. In a former high school, the Khmer Rouge established the S-21 security prison in 1975 — an interrogation, torture, and execution center through which an estimated 17,000 to 20,000 people were processed. Only 12 survived.

What makes the place so distressing: It looks like an ordinary school. Classrooms were turned into torture chambers, corridors into cell blocks (tiny brick enclosures). On the walls hang the mugshots of the prisoners — men, women, children, some with a number on their chest. The faces look at you. It's almost unbearable.

What You See

• Building A: Large rooms with iron beds — this is where interrogations and torture took place. The original furnishings are preserved. On the walls, photos of the last victims.
• Building B: Photos. Thousands of mugshots of the prisoners — the Khmer Rouge meticulously documented every detainee. The faces range from composed to terrified.
• Building C: The cells. Classrooms divided into tiny enclosures made of brick and wood. The prisoners lay chained on the floor.
• Building D: More photos and testimonies. Paintings by survivor Vann Nath depicting the torture.

The audioguide (included in the entrance fee) is outstanding — it contains accounts from survivors and the former prison director Duch (convicted in 2010). Plan at least 2 hours.

Choeung Ek — The Killing Fields

15 km south of Phnom Penh lie the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek — the most famous of over 300 execution sites of the Khmer Rouge across the country. Prisoners from S-21 were brought here and murdered. An estimated 17,000 people were executed here between 1975 and 1979 and buried in mass graves.

The Tour

A path leads across the site, past the excavation sites of the mass graves — some are now water-filled depressions, others marked rectangles in the grass. In some places, bones and fabric scraps still surface after heavy rains.

The audioguide (included in the entrance fee) is one of the best ever produced. It guides you from station to station, lets survivors speak, and explains the history with dignity and restraint. Take the time for all 19 stations — at least 1.5–2 hours.

The Stupa Memorial

At the center of the site stands a 17-story glass stupa, filled with over 8,000 skulls, sorted by age and gender. A silent, dignified memorial to the victims. Most skulls show injuries from blunt objects — the Khmer Rouge "saved" ammunition.

The so-called "Killing Tree", where children were murdered, is the most emotional point of the site. Visitors leave bracelets and flowers.

Phsar Tuol Tom Poung (Russian Market)

The "Russian Market" — so named because Russian expatriates shopped here in the 1980s — is the best market in Phnom Penh for souvenirs, clothing, and food. Under a covered labyrinth of narrow aisles, you'll find:

• Silk scarves: Handwoven Khmer silk, from 8–15 USD (haggle!)
• Silver jewelry: Traditional Khmer motifs, from 3–10 USD
• T-shirts and branded clothing: Cambodia produces for international fashion brands — overproduction and rejects end up here. Branded T-shirts from 2–3 USD.
• Handicrafts: Carved figures, masks, Angkor replicas
• Street food zone: In the back part — fresh noodles, fried rice, fruit smoothies. Complete lunch from 1.50 USD.

Phsar Thmei (Central Market)

The iconic Art Deco building (1937, architect: Jean Desbois) with its distinctive yellow dome is the architectural highlight among the markets. Under the dome: jewelry and gemstones (Cambodia's rubies from Pailin!). Around it: fabrics, electronics, household goods. Less touristy than the Russian Market, but atmospheric.

Riverside (Sisowath Quay)

The riverside promenade along the Tonle Sap stretches over 3 km and is the heart of tourist Phnom Penh. In the evenings, thousands stroll along the river — families, couples, joggers, monks. The Riverside is lined with:

• Restaurants and bars: From simple Khmer BBQ (3 USD for grilled meat buffet) to chic cocktail lounges
• Sunsets: The view over the Tonle Sap at sunset, an Angkor beer in hand — a perfect end to the day
• Night market (Phsar Reatrey): On weekends right on the Riverside. Clothing, souvenirs, street food. Cheap and lively.

Other Attractions

• National Museum (Musée national): The most important collection of Khmer art outside of Angkor. Sculptures, bronzes, ceramics from the 6th–14th centuries. 10 USD, daily 8:00–17:00.
• Wat Phnom: The founding hill of the city (27 m) — according to legend, a woman named Penh found four Buddha statues in the Mekong and erected a hill (Phnom) with a temple here. 1 USD entrance.
• Independence Monument (Vimean Ekareach): The iconic lotus-shaped tower (1958) on Norodom Boulevard, designed by Vann Molyvann, Cambodia's most famous architect.